Jaager
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Jaager got a reaction from DarkAngel in How to best apply stains
A stain is essentially a paint. If you apply it before glue assembly - there is a chance that the glue joint will fail because the stain will keep the glue from penetrating the wood. Give some thought to using an aqueous or alcohol based wood dye. It penetrates the wood instead of being a surface coat. If it is water based, you first wet the wood with water or water with some PVA glue mixed in. This will raise the grain - the wood is sanded when dry and then dyed. It will not need to be sanded again so no removal of dye. The wood will glue as well as it will in a raw state. A clear satin or matt finish applied after assembly. A dye will leave the wood looking as though it was the original wood - instead of the "muddy" effect of a stain.
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Jaager got a reaction from grsjax in How to best apply stains
A stain is essentially a paint. If you apply it before glue assembly - there is a chance that the glue joint will fail because the stain will keep the glue from penetrating the wood. Give some thought to using an aqueous or alcohol based wood dye. It penetrates the wood instead of being a surface coat. If it is water based, you first wet the wood with water or water with some PVA glue mixed in. This will raise the grain - the wood is sanded when dry and then dyed. It will not need to be sanded again so no removal of dye. The wood will glue as well as it will in a raw state. A clear satin or matt finish applied after assembly. A dye will leave the wood looking as though it was the original wood - instead of the "muddy" effect of a stain.
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Jaager got a reaction from Keith Simmons in How to best apply stains
A stain is essentially a paint. If you apply it before glue assembly - there is a chance that the glue joint will fail because the stain will keep the glue from penetrating the wood. Give some thought to using an aqueous or alcohol based wood dye. It penetrates the wood instead of being a surface coat. If it is water based, you first wet the wood with water or water with some PVA glue mixed in. This will raise the grain - the wood is sanded when dry and then dyed. It will not need to be sanded again so no removal of dye. The wood will glue as well as it will in a raw state. A clear satin or matt finish applied after assembly. A dye will leave the wood looking as though it was the original wood - instead of the "muddy" effect of a stain.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in How to best apply stains
A stain is essentially a paint. If you apply it before glue assembly - there is a chance that the glue joint will fail because the stain will keep the glue from penetrating the wood. Give some thought to using an aqueous or alcohol based wood dye. It penetrates the wood instead of being a surface coat. If it is water based, you first wet the wood with water or water with some PVA glue mixed in. This will raise the grain - the wood is sanded when dry and then dyed. It will not need to be sanded again so no removal of dye. The wood will glue as well as it will in a raw state. A clear satin or matt finish applied after assembly. A dye will leave the wood looking as though it was the original wood - instead of the "muddy" effect of a stain.
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Jaager got a reaction from druxey in Ammoniated water
One of the components of wood is glue-like and binding = lignin. Its binding properties can be weakened and allow wood to be bent by liquid ammonia. This is not household ammonia. It is anhydrous ammonia - an industrial chemical that is dangerous, reactive and explosive. I vaguely remember an ice plant used liquid ammonia as a refrigerant exploded and became a fire in downtown Richmond when I was a kid .
The part of household ammonia that aids in wood bending is water. Using water alone will do the same thing.
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Jaager got a reaction from markjay in Ammoniated water
One of the components of wood is glue-like and binding = lignin. Its binding properties can be weakened and allow wood to be bent by liquid ammonia. This is not household ammonia. It is anhydrous ammonia - an industrial chemical that is dangerous, reactive and explosive. I vaguely remember an ice plant used liquid ammonia as a refrigerant exploded and became a fire in downtown Richmond when I was a kid .
The part of household ammonia that aids in wood bending is water. Using water alone will do the same thing.
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Jaager got a reaction from slow2cool in Weathering a copper hull
I came across this product on Amazon:
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8626-what-have-you-received-today/page-53#entry399523
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Jaager got a reaction from Seventynet in Ammoniated water
One of the components of wood is glue-like and binding = lignin. Its binding properties can be weakened and allow wood to be bent by liquid ammonia. This is not household ammonia. It is anhydrous ammonia - an industrial chemical that is dangerous, reactive and explosive. I vaguely remember an ice plant used liquid ammonia as a refrigerant exploded and became a fire in downtown Richmond when I was a kid .
The part of household ammonia that aids in wood bending is water. Using water alone will do the same thing.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Ammoniated water
One of the components of wood is glue-like and binding = lignin. Its binding properties can be weakened and allow wood to be bent by liquid ammonia. This is not household ammonia. It is anhydrous ammonia - an industrial chemical that is dangerous, reactive and explosive. I vaguely remember an ice plant used liquid ammonia as a refrigerant exploded and became a fire in downtown Richmond when I was a kid .
The part of household ammonia that aids in wood bending is water. Using water alone will do the same thing.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Weathering a copper hull
I came across this product on Amazon:
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8626-what-have-you-received-today/page-53#entry399523
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Jaager got a reaction from Mike Y in Ammoniated water
One of the components of wood is glue-like and binding = lignin. Its binding properties can be weakened and allow wood to be bent by liquid ammonia. This is not household ammonia. It is anhydrous ammonia - an industrial chemical that is dangerous, reactive and explosive. I vaguely remember an ice plant used liquid ammonia as a refrigerant exploded and became a fire in downtown Richmond when I was a kid .
The part of household ammonia that aids in wood bending is water. Using water alone will do the same thing.
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Jaager got a reaction from hornet in Ammoniated water
One of the components of wood is glue-like and binding = lignin. Its binding properties can be weakened and allow wood to be bent by liquid ammonia. This is not household ammonia. It is anhydrous ammonia - an industrial chemical that is dangerous, reactive and explosive. I vaguely remember an ice plant used liquid ammonia as a refrigerant exploded and became a fire in downtown Richmond when I was a kid .
The part of household ammonia that aids in wood bending is water. Using water alone will do the same thing.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Ammoniated water
One of the components of wood is glue-like and binding = lignin. Its binding properties can be weakened and allow wood to be bent by liquid ammonia. This is not household ammonia. It is anhydrous ammonia - an industrial chemical that is dangerous, reactive and explosive. I vaguely remember an ice plant used liquid ammonia as a refrigerant exploded and became a fire in downtown Richmond when I was a kid .
The part of household ammonia that aids in wood bending is water. Using water alone will do the same thing.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Weathering a copper hull
I came across this product on Amazon:
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8626-what-have-you-received-today/page-53#entry399523
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Which one: Cypress or Red Mahogany
Reference to a "local bayou" - if you are in the US Gulf Coast region - there are 2 local species that are excellent for carving - low weight, fine grain, closed pore, take well to aniline dyes and glue = Tupelo and Yellow Poplar. If you have a local saw mill that mills it, perhaps you can purchase end cuttings or raw planks at a low cost - if you have the tools to work it. Black Cherry also carves well and is usually a low end domestic as far as cost,
The Red Mahogany and Cypress are better suited for building the display case for the model.
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Jaager got a reaction from grsjax in Which one: Cypress or Red Mahogany
Reference to a "local bayou" - if you are in the US Gulf Coast region - there are 2 local species that are excellent for carving - low weight, fine grain, closed pore, take well to aniline dyes and glue = Tupelo and Yellow Poplar. If you have a local saw mill that mills it, perhaps you can purchase end cuttings or raw planks at a low cost - if you have the tools to work it. Black Cherry also carves well and is usually a low end domestic as far as cost,
The Red Mahogany and Cypress are better suited for building the display case for the model.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Which one: Cypress or Red Mahogany
Reference to a "local bayou" - if you are in the US Gulf Coast region - there are 2 local species that are excellent for carving - low weight, fine grain, closed pore, take well to aniline dyes and glue = Tupelo and Yellow Poplar. If you have a local saw mill that mills it, perhaps you can purchase end cuttings or raw planks at a low cost - if you have the tools to work it. Black Cherry also carves well and is usually a low end domestic as far as cost,
The Red Mahogany and Cypress are better suited for building the display case for the model.
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Jaager got a reaction from toms10 in Futtocks and riders
Framing of English warships was more complicated than what the French, Dutch and North Americans used. Davis was describing American methods and a simplified derivative at that. The Room = Space - if used at all - was probably limited to economy built merchantmen. Non-English tended to be all (mated) paired frames with space probably averaging 20-30% of the width of Room+Space.
The use of single stack filler frames was mostly English. The English significantly reduced the width of each subsequent futtock as it approached the rail. Rather than have a lot of space in the top side, often it looks like a pattern of 2 paired frames then one filler frame was used. At the keel there was little space.
French/North American : futtocks dd not lessen in width near as much- if at all. The pattern was frame pair- space - frame pair space. I have plans for a mid 19th C. USN ship where they wanted the ship to be longer than drawn, and the directions on the plans ordered that each space to be 1 inch wider than the plans stipulated.
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Jaager got a reaction from robin b in Futtocks and riders
Framing of English warships was more complicated than what the French, Dutch and North Americans used. Davis was describing American methods and a simplified derivative at that. The Room = Space - if used at all - was probably limited to economy built merchantmen. Non-English tended to be all (mated) paired frames with space probably averaging 20-30% of the width of Room+Space.
The use of single stack filler frames was mostly English. The English significantly reduced the width of each subsequent futtock as it approached the rail. Rather than have a lot of space in the top side, often it looks like a pattern of 2 paired frames then one filler frame was used. At the keel there was little space.
French/North American : futtocks dd not lessen in width near as much- if at all. The pattern was frame pair- space - frame pair space. I have plans for a mid 19th C. USN ship where they wanted the ship to be longer than drawn, and the directions on the plans ordered that each space to be 1 inch wider than the plans stipulated.
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Jaager got a reaction from Keith Simmons in Sealers--are they effective?
The products that are labeled as "Sand and Sealer" strike me as being too thick for model use. It may save having to fill pores with dilute Plaster of Paris for a smooth surface in Oak, Walnut, Ash, Hickory, etc. but those species are out of scale for model use anyway.
The soak in products bare a look: 50% pure Tung oil in Mineral Spirits or 5% Super Blonde/ 10% Orange shellac.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Sealers--are they effective?
The products that are labeled as "Sand and Sealer" strike me as being too thick for model use. It may save having to fill pores with dilute Plaster of Paris for a smooth surface in Oak, Walnut, Ash, Hickory, etc. but those species are out of scale for model use anyway.
The soak in products bare a look: 50% pure Tung oil in Mineral Spirits or 5% Super Blonde/ 10% Orange shellac.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Sealers--are they effective?
The products that are labeled as "Sand and Sealer" strike me as being too thick for model use. It may save having to fill pores with dilute Plaster of Paris for a smooth surface in Oak, Walnut, Ash, Hickory, etc. but those species are out of scale for model use anyway.
The soak in products bare a look: 50% pure Tung oil in Mineral Spirits or 5% Super Blonde/ 10% Orange shellac.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in chisels
Matt, I am working with Hard Maple, but what I was trying to say is that stropping = more efficient wood removal - it sharpened the scraper. I am not using them to get a final finish - instead getting a smooth run for clamps, bilge strakes and ceiling. When I cut inside bevels, I tend to leave the inside too fat after drum sanding the shape. I am developing a different method of hull framing. Getting the inside of the frames with a finished look is the most time consuming step. The sections joint at the station lines so the glue plane in in the middle of a paired frame. Unlike standard methods an imperfect transition is obvious.
I guess I could try to design a small convex working surface for a finish sander at the end of a stilt - so that it can get inside the hull. I recently bought a Wen Detailing Palm Sander. It is about 4x or more the size that I need and a flat sole is no help for inside curves but it has screws to mount the sole. I am thinking that it is a way to mount a smaller sanding surface at the end of a "stick". The machine was $25 so I am not out much if it does not work.
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Jaager got a reaction from thibaultron in chisels
Matt, I am working with Hard Maple, but what I was trying to say is that stropping = more efficient wood removal - it sharpened the scraper. I am not using them to get a final finish - instead getting a smooth run for clamps, bilge strakes and ceiling. When I cut inside bevels, I tend to leave the inside too fat after drum sanding the shape. I am developing a different method of hull framing. Getting the inside of the frames with a finished look is the most time consuming step. The sections joint at the station lines so the glue plane in in the middle of a paired frame. Unlike standard methods an imperfect transition is obvious.
I guess I could try to design a small convex working surface for a finish sander at the end of a stilt - so that it can get inside the hull. I recently bought a Wen Detailing Palm Sander. It is about 4x or more the size that I need and a flat sole is no help for inside curves but it has screws to mount the sole. I am thinking that it is a way to mount a smaller sanding surface at the end of a "stick". The machine was $25 so I am not out much if it does not work.
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