Jaager

I keep coming back to the thought that laying the deck would be a much more satisfying experience were you using an appropriate species of wood, instead of the junk species Anigre.
 
One concept to take to heart is that with a wooden ship of the age of sail = there are seldom two timbers that are identical.  There are mirror images.  Dutch ships in the deadflat may be an exception for a long stretch.  Galleys perhaps. 

I keep coming back to the thought that laying the deck would be a much more satisfying experience were you using an appropriate species of wood, instead of the junk species Anigre.
 
One concept to take to heart is that with a wooden ship of the age of sail = there are seldom two timbers that are identical.  There are mirror images.  Dutch ships in the deadflat may be an exception for a long stretch.  Galleys perhaps. 

I as well cut my teeth on the Yellow Box kits and one of my favorites was the Forrester lumber schooner. I have learn to respect the kits so much that about ten years ago I started to collect as many as I could find in "mint' condition. Have even bought duplicates to insure they contained only 
the best parts. I think we owe John Shed and the boys a debt of gratitude. Quite obvious from this thread that a number of outstanding builders and contributors to the forum have a soft spot for the Good Old Days.
 
Yankee Clipper

https://www.pennstateind.com/store/universal-duplicator.html

On a foundational level - a wood lathe is probably a very poor choice of tool for small and detailed tasks.  What it works for is about ten times larger than the job on the table.
A metal lathe is the tool.  The precision and tolerances are in line for this job.
For multiple identical copies an efficient way is to start with a pattern and use a duplicator attachment.
I knowThis is the one I bought to use with my Unimat SL1000.   The real Unimat lathe series is long out of manufacture so a generic attachment was my option:

 
I realize that this is not what you want to read.  It is way beyond your budget.   Still, to avoid the waste of following false trails,  it is better to at least have a map of the terrain at issue.
 
I have been compulsive in making sure that the lack of the proper tool not be an impediment.  It strikes me as a  bit ironic  that should I break my loop and actually take a hull to completion,  I intend to for it to be a ship after the shipwrights are finished but either on the way to the masting and rigging dock or leaving the masting dock and on the way to the armory.   My esthetics see the guns as a distraction - mostly clutter - sort of busy looking  -  my focus is on the swimming body.

https://www.pennstateind.com/store/universal-duplicator.html

https://www.pennstateind.com/store/universal-duplicator.html

On a foundational level - a wood lathe is probably a very poor choice of tool for small and detailed tasks.  What it works for is about ten times larger than the job on the table.
A metal lathe is the tool.  The precision and tolerances are in line for this job.
For multiple identical copies an efficient way is to start with a pattern and use a duplicator attachment.
I knowThis is the one I bought to use with my Unimat SL1000.   The real Unimat lathe series is long out of manufacture so a generic attachment was my option:

 
I realize that this is not what you want to read.  It is way beyond your budget.   Still, to avoid the waste of following false trails,  it is better to at least have a map of the terrain at issue.
 
I have been compulsive in making sure that the lack of the proper tool not be an impediment.  It strikes me as a  bit ironic  that should I break my loop and actually take a hull to completion,  I intend to for it to be a ship after the shipwrights are finished but either on the way to the masting and rigging dock or leaving the masting dock and on the way to the armory.   My esthetics see the guns as a distraction - mostly clutter - sort of busy looking  -  my focus is on the swimming body.

@East Ender
 
With a solid hull at 1:48  there is the option to use a thin veneer to plank over the hull.  There are instructions here.
The veneer can be spilled from a sheet using a very sharp knife and a steel straight edge. 
Use a better quality #11 shaped blade than Xacto or similar is my suggestion.
See if you can get sawn rather than rotary cut veneer.  
Maybe rotary cut would play nice if you apply the PVA to the side that is toward the pith.  It will probably cup in the correct direction.
 
The bottom can be copper color dyed or Black Cherry can be used to begin with.
I do not know how much detail that EAR Jr.  included in the instruction booklet but Chapelle's  The American Fishing Schooners, 1825-1935 has a section at the back with lots of detail.

On a foundational level - a wood lathe is probably a very poor choice of tool for small and detailed tasks.  What it works for is about ten times larger than the job on the table.
A metal lathe is the tool.  The precision and tolerances are in line for this job.
For multiple identical copies an efficient way is to start with a pattern and use a duplicator attachment.
I knowThis is the one I bought to use with my Unimat SL1000.   The real Unimat lathe series is long out of manufacture so a generic attachment was my option:

 
I realize that this is not what you want to read.  It is way beyond your budget.   Still, to avoid the waste of following false trails,  it is better to at least have a map of the terrain at issue.
 
I have been compulsive in making sure that the lack of the proper tool not be an impediment.  It strikes me as a  bit ironic  that should I break my loop and actually take a hull to completion,  I intend to for it to be a ship after the shipwrights are finished but either on the way to the masting and rigging dock or leaving the masting dock and on the way to the armory.   My esthetics see the guns as a distraction - mostly clutter - sort of busy looking  -  my focus is on the swimming body.

@East Ender
 
With a solid hull at 1:48  there is the option to use a thin veneer to plank over the hull.  There are instructions here.
The veneer can be spilled from a sheet using a very sharp knife and a steel straight edge. 
Use a better quality #11 shaped blade than Xacto or similar is my suggestion.
See if you can get sawn rather than rotary cut veneer.  
Maybe rotary cut would play nice if you apply the PVA to the side that is toward the pith.  It will probably cup in the correct direction.
 
The bottom can be copper color dyed or Black Cherry can be used to begin with.
I do not know how much detail that EAR Jr.  included in the instruction booklet but Chapelle's  The American Fishing Schooners, 1825-1935 has a section at the back with lots of detail.

@East Ender
 
With a solid hull at 1:48  there is the option to use a thin veneer to plank over the hull.  There are instructions here.
The veneer can be spilled from a sheet using a very sharp knife and a steel straight edge. 
Use a better quality #11 shaped blade than Xacto or similar is my suggestion.
See if you can get sawn rather than rotary cut veneer.  
Maybe rotary cut would play nice if you apply the PVA to the side that is toward the pith.  It will probably cup in the correct direction.
 
The bottom can be copper color dyed or Black Cherry can be used to begin with.
I do not know how much detail that EAR Jr.  included in the instruction booklet but Chapelle's  The American Fishing Schooners, 1825-1935 has a section at the back with lots of detail.

Unlike plastic, it is neigh on to impossible to totally ruin a wooden ship kit.  Worse comes to worst, all of the material can be replaced with the natural material from outside sources, and started over as scratch.  It is better schooling too.
 
One of the tricks with carving is to use tools that work well. 
For more than light removal, StewMac has a pair of small razor files that are peachy keen.
For the sort of sanding that the hull needs, it is probably better to always have a wood backing on the sandpaper. 
Rubber cement - both surfaces coated, allowed to dry, and joined, fixes the paper to the backing and makes for easy renewal.
No matter how badly the hull looks,  it will still look better than any POB hull - unless the POB hull is totally filled between the molds.   And if that is done, it is essentially the same as a carved hull.
It is difficult to irreversibly damage a solid wood hull.  If too much is removed, the loss can be replaced.
If it is just a little, wood flour mixed with PVA makes a very strong layer, but it will be tougher to remove than the original wood after it sets up.   For a deeper patch, scab a layer of wood veneer - Pine works.
When you get the shape to match your templates, even if it is ugly, that is easy to hide.
The kit may offer this suggestion, but a solid carved hull makes an excellent support for a layer of actual planking.
The planking wood should be thin and of a scale appropriate species of hardwood.  Being thin, the planks can be properly spilled by using a steel straight edge and a sharp knife.  Since the hull is being gridled beyond its dimension, thin is best.
Using an appropriate species of wood can turn a chore into a joy. 
The model will look better.
 
 

@East Ender
 
With a solid hull at 1:48  there is the option to use a thin veneer to plank over the hull.  There are instructions here.
The veneer can be spilled from a sheet using a very sharp knife and a steel straight edge. 
Use a better quality #11 shaped blade than Xacto or similar is my suggestion.
See if you can get sawn rather than rotary cut veneer.  
Maybe rotary cut would play nice if you apply the PVA to the side that is toward the pith.  It will probably cup in the correct direction.
 
The bottom can be copper color dyed or Black Cherry can be used to begin with.
I do not know how much detail that EAR Jr.  included in the instruction booklet but Chapelle's  The American Fishing Schooners, 1825-1935 has a section at the back with lots of detail.

I have asked that question myself.  No answer yet.  Other than some compulsion against gaps between planks, I see no need for it either.
If there are hollows,  I think that scabbing actual wood veneer and paring that down would be better than any sort of Bondo or patching putty.
 
 

It has been my impression that Hegner is the ultimate in quality.   You bought a 'no way to loose' model.  Unlike most manufacturers, I doubt that 'planned obsolescence' figures into Hegner's engineering.

It has been my impression that Hegner is the ultimate in quality.   You bought a 'no way to loose' model.  Unlike most manufacturers, I doubt that 'planned obsolescence' figures into Hegner's engineering.

It has been my impression that Hegner is the ultimate in quality.   You bought a 'no way to loose' model.  Unlike most manufacturers, I doubt that 'planned obsolescence' figures into Hegner's engineering.

Steven,
I have given this some thought. 
How I think I would rig this:
 
The rope at the end of the yard would be a loop.   The inner end fixed to the yard.  The outer end a deadeye that slips over the end of the yardarm.  The opening above the block sheave that it reeves thru would be large enough to admit the deadeye.  To stow the yard, all that need be done is slide the loop back over the end of the yard and back thru the block.
When raising and lowering the yard, the friction/pressure point on the loop would change as the angle to the raised position becomes more horizontal.  If the rope is less than perfect quality = a longer working life.
 
The upper block - if I remember the physics correctly - twice the length of rope must be pulled as is the distance that the yard moves - the work is half.
I would lead the line over to a double block fixed at the mast - just under the top.   The line from each end would go thru this same block and then go down fife rail.  Being in parallel, one man could handle the yard - or a group working together.
I would try a deadeye at the end of each lift lead that was just below the mast top block.  A hook would tie each line to a single down haul line.  When the hook was pulled to deck level the yard would be about half way up.  That would be about the optimal height for the sail to be reefed or have another band of canvas added.  Storm or light winds.   The line with the hook could be separated and stowed at the fife rail and the two lifts pulled and tied off when the yard is fully raised.   This reduced the length that a single line must be.  There may be some economic or equipment maintenance  advantage to that.

Steven,
I have given this some thought. 
How I think I would rig this:
 
The rope at the end of the yard would be a loop.   The inner end fixed to the yard.  The outer end a deadeye that slips over the end of the yardarm.  The opening above the block sheave that it reeves thru would be large enough to admit the deadeye.  To stow the yard, all that need be done is slide the loop back over the end of the yard and back thru the block.
When raising and lowering the yard, the friction/pressure point on the loop would change as the angle to the raised position becomes more horizontal.  If the rope is less than perfect quality = a longer working life.
 
The upper block - if I remember the physics correctly - twice the length of rope must be pulled as is the distance that the yard moves - the work is half.
I would lead the line over to a double block fixed at the mast - just under the top.   The line from each end would go thru this same block and then go down fife rail.  Being in parallel, one man could handle the yard - or a group working together.
I would try a deadeye at the end of each lift lead that was just below the mast top block.  A hook would tie each line to a single down haul line.  When the hook was pulled to deck level the yard would be about half way up.  That would be about the optimal height for the sail to be reefed or have another band of canvas added.  Storm or light winds.   The line with the hook could be separated and stowed at the fife rail and the two lifts pulled and tied off when the yard is fully raised.   This reduced the length that a single line must be.  There may be some economic or equipment maintenance  advantage to that.

I have zero knowledge about the rigging of the yard, but there is a notable presentation in the picture in post #2.   I am not sure if the picture is not the first one from the time that I have seen where the forecastle has a deck that is horizontal enough for a human (and not a chameleon) to stand on and do something other than hold on for dear life. 
The camber in those old pictures is usually absurd. 
 
For the rigging, perhaps you could do a mock up using the components  shown and see if there is a way to lead the lines to actually raise and lower the yard.

Steven,
I have given this some thought. 
How I think I would rig this:
 
The rope at the end of the yard would be a loop.   The inner end fixed to the yard.  The outer end a deadeye that slips over the end of the yardarm.  The opening above the block sheave that it reeves thru would be large enough to admit the deadeye.  To stow the yard, all that need be done is slide the loop back over the end of the yard and back thru the block.
When raising and lowering the yard, the friction/pressure point on the loop would change as the angle to the raised position becomes more horizontal.  If the rope is less than perfect quality = a longer working life.
 
The upper block - if I remember the physics correctly - twice the length of rope must be pulled as is the distance that the yard moves - the work is half.
I would lead the line over to a double block fixed at the mast - just under the top.   The line from each end would go thru this same block and then go down fife rail.  Being in parallel, one man could handle the yard - or a group working together.
I would try a deadeye at the end of each lift lead that was just below the mast top block.  A hook would tie each line to a single down haul line.  When the hook was pulled to deck level the yard would be about half way up.  That would be about the optimal height for the sail to be reefed or have another band of canvas added.  Storm or light winds.   The line with the hook could be separated and stowed at the fife rail and the two lifts pulled and tied off when the yard is fully raised.   This reduced the length that a single line must be.  There may be some economic or equipment maintenance  advantage to that.

I have zero knowledge about the rigging of the yard, but there is a notable presentation in the picture in post #2.   I am not sure if the picture is not the first one from the time that I have seen where the forecastle has a deck that is horizontal enough for a human (and not a chameleon) to stand on and do something other than hold on for dear life. 
The camber in those old pictures is usually absurd. 
 
For the rigging, perhaps you could do a mock up using the components  shown and see if there is a way to lead the lines to actually raise and lower the yard.

I have zero knowledge about the rigging of the yard, but there is a notable presentation in the picture in post #2.   I am not sure if the picture is not the first one from the time that I have seen where the forecastle has a deck that is horizontal enough for a human (and not a chameleon) to stand on and do something other than hold on for dear life. 
The camber in those old pictures is usually absurd. 
 
For the rigging, perhaps you could do a mock up using the components  shown and see if there is a way to lead the lines to actually raise and lower the yard.

You can check here...  https://www.wood-database.com/   It's very extensive and has lots of info including toxicity.