Jaager

It is the scanner that alters.   The printer replicates what the file saved is.  Just as long as the "fit to frame" box is not checked  in the print command window. Just as long as the page/canvas in the graphics program document file in use is exactly the size of the paper that the printer is set for.
 
I have a canvas as a stock document that I always use. It is as close to being exactly 8.5x14 as I could make it.  For everyone else, I guess 8.5x11.  I lacquer coat my patterns, doing this is not being a fun thing, I aim for fewer pages, thus the larger page,  an expensive choice.  There is a huge difference in price per ream.
The numbers that I came up with:  8.5x11   2197 pixels x 1701 pixels  and   8.5x14   2796 pixels x 1701 pixels.
I added a scan of a 15cm clear ruler.  Metric is easier for the scale adjustment math.    I selected the background and CUT, so that the layer is transparent except for the scale hash marks.   I scaled it in my graphics program (Painter - because I already had it) until a printout was identical to the original.  For a long time, I included the 15cm ruler bar at a horizontal edge and a vertical edge of every page as a check. 
 
For a home scan, the first thing to scan is a clear background ruler.   Once you determine the scale factor adjustment of your scanner, it will be a constant for that machine.
For outside scans, there must be a known distance on the page. 
I do all of my lofting at 1/4" : 1' .    I found a 1/4" scale on the Web.  I made it its own layer.  I selected the background and CUT, so that the layer is transparent except for the scale hash marks.
I had to adjust the scale of the layer until a printout was identical to the 1/4" scale on my triangular architects ruler.
So, every outside scan is has its known distance compared with my 1/4" layer.  When my scale adjustment has it match what I want it to be, every print has bee accurate.
When you adjust a scan, ALWAYS do it on a duplicate layer. Do not risk the original.  Chain adjustments can get out of control very rapidly.  If the first factor is not enough or too much, delete the duplicate layer.  Make a new duplicate and adjust that.  Write down every new number of scrap paper,  your memory will fail you. 

Shellac using a piece of a worn out tee shirt.  One coat for a flat Age of Sail deck.  More coats, more gloss.

It is the scanner that alters.   The printer replicates what the file saved is.  Just as long as the "fit to frame" box is not checked  in the print command window. Just as long as the page/canvas in the graphics program document file in use is exactly the size of the paper that the printer is set for.
 
I have a canvas as a stock document that I always use. It is as close to being exactly 8.5x14 as I could make it.  For everyone else, I guess 8.5x11.  I lacquer coat my patterns, doing this is not being a fun thing, I aim for fewer pages, thus the larger page,  an expensive choice.  There is a huge difference in price per ream.
The numbers that I came up with:  8.5x11   2197 pixels x 1701 pixels  and   8.5x14   2796 pixels x 1701 pixels.
I added a scan of a 15cm clear ruler.  Metric is easier for the scale adjustment math.    I selected the background and CUT, so that the layer is transparent except for the scale hash marks.   I scaled it in my graphics program (Painter - because I already had it) until a printout was identical to the original.  For a long time, I included the 15cm ruler bar at a horizontal edge and a vertical edge of every page as a check. 
 
For a home scan, the first thing to scan is a clear background ruler.   Once you determine the scale factor adjustment of your scanner, it will be a constant for that machine.
For outside scans, there must be a known distance on the page. 
I do all of my lofting at 1/4" : 1' .    I found a 1/4" scale on the Web.  I made it its own layer.  I selected the background and CUT, so that the layer is transparent except for the scale hash marks.
I had to adjust the scale of the layer until a printout was identical to the 1/4" scale on my triangular architects ruler.
So, every outside scan is has its known distance compared with my 1/4" layer.  When my scale adjustment has it match what I want it to be, every print has bee accurate.
When you adjust a scan, ALWAYS do it on a duplicate layer. Do not risk the original.  Chain adjustments can get out of control very rapidly.  If the first factor is not enough or too much, delete the duplicate layer.  Make a new duplicate and adjust that.  Write down every new number of scrap paper,  your memory will fail you. 

It is the scanner that alters.   The printer replicates what the file saved is.  Just as long as the "fit to frame" box is not checked  in the print command window. Just as long as the page/canvas in the graphics program document file in use is exactly the size of the paper that the printer is set for.
 
I have a canvas as a stock document that I always use. It is as close to being exactly 8.5x14 as I could make it.  For everyone else, I guess 8.5x11.  I lacquer coat my patterns, doing this is not being a fun thing, I aim for fewer pages, thus the larger page,  an expensive choice.  There is a huge difference in price per ream.
The numbers that I came up with:  8.5x11   2197 pixels x 1701 pixels  and   8.5x14   2796 pixels x 1701 pixels.
I added a scan of a 15cm clear ruler.  Metric is easier for the scale adjustment math.    I selected the background and CUT, so that the layer is transparent except for the scale hash marks.   I scaled it in my graphics program (Painter - because I already had it) until a printout was identical to the original.  For a long time, I included the 15cm ruler bar at a horizontal edge and a vertical edge of every page as a check. 
 
For a home scan, the first thing to scan is a clear background ruler.   Once you determine the scale factor adjustment of your scanner, it will be a constant for that machine.
For outside scans, there must be a known distance on the page. 
I do all of my lofting at 1/4" : 1' .    I found a 1/4" scale on the Web.  I made it its own layer.  I selected the background and CUT, so that the layer is transparent except for the scale hash marks.
I had to adjust the scale of the layer until a printout was identical to the 1/4" scale on my triangular architects ruler.
So, every outside scan is has its known distance compared with my 1/4" layer.  When my scale adjustment has it match what I want it to be, every print has bee accurate.
When you adjust a scan, ALWAYS do it on a duplicate layer. Do not risk the original.  Chain adjustments can get out of control very rapidly.  If the first factor is not enough or too much, delete the duplicate layer.  Make a new duplicate and adjust that.  Write down every new number of scrap paper,  your memory will fail you. 

Shellac using a piece of a worn out tee shirt.  One coat for a flat Age of Sail deck.  More coats, more gloss.

Shellac using a piece of a worn out tee shirt.  One coat for a flat Age of Sail deck.  More coats, more gloss.

Underhill's books appear to be still available from the original publisher's web site in the UK  Brown, Son and Ferguson
His plans are also there - almost all are later 19th and early 20th century subjects
 
https://www.skipper.co.uk/catalogue/books/page
https://www.skipper.co.uk/catalogue/item/masting-and-rigging  L 22
https://www.skipper.co.uk/catalogue/item/plank-on-frame-models-and-scale-masting-rigging-volume-1  L 25
https://www.skipper.co.uk/catalogue/item/plank-on-frame-models-and-scale-masting-rigging-volume-2  L 20
https://www.skipper.co.uk/catalogue/item/deep-water-sail L 30
https://www.skipper.co.uk/catalogue/item/sailing-ship-rigs-and-rigging L 16
 
 
Both ANCRE books are " available" 
as written, the shipping is so high that I will no longer consider any purchase.
They need a US agent, and not one focused on avarice  - cough NIP cough
 
https://ancre.fr/en/14-basic-books
 
AN INTRODUCTION TO PLANKED ON FRAME SCALE MODEL SHIP BUILDING
AN INTRODUCTION TO PLANKED ON FRAME SCALE MODEL SHIP BUILDING “DOCKYARD STYLE”
An introduction to Planked on frame model ship building through more than 200 pages illustrated by approximately 500 colour photographs and captions.
 This guide includes explanations on all the techniques used during the construction of a model.
EAN : 9791096873920
Model MODELA
En stock
    Print
Author : Adrian SOROLLA translation by GILLES KORENT
49 Euro
 
The Art of Shipmodeling - Bernard Frolich
The Art of Shipmodeling describes the author's experience and methods in 300 pages abundantly illustrated with numerous drawings, sketchs and more than 600 commentated photos.
Model LART
En stock
    Print
Author : Bernard Frölich
89 Euro
 
 

Using either to do the job of a plane will probably not be a rewarding experience.  A plane is designed to limit the depth of cut.
 
The hounds region is usually smaller than the round.   Use the mast required square as the chucked section and after the rounding, work the square section down to the correct square/ rectangular cross section.  
I would probably use the top of my vise jaws as my depth stop.
 
As for your "Would that work?" question:  i.e.  hand planing to octagonal ( or whatever a 16 sided polygon is named) and then sanding  vs starting with a square and using a sanding function to do all of the cutting,
(putting on my professor hat) =  start with two identical sticks - make your mast using a plane on one and use the drill as a lathe and use a sanding stick as a very shallow cutting turning chisel on the other and give us the result of your experiment.    My imagination tells me that using a sanding stick (lots of sanding sticks probably) will take significantly longer?

I checked on Amazon.   AM Arrowmax  offers a small spectrum  of variations,  none of which intersect with my needs. Mostly it is mutually exclusive for the 50-80 wire gauge drill bit function.  Speeds and tool attachment are discordant. The models with a chuck that allows infinite diameter bits do not have the speeds that I require.  The ones with the speed have a fixed size insert.  There is even one with 10,000 to 30,000 RPM if burning a hole instead of drilling one is an aim.
 
The drill bit sets with a fixed size base are usually carbide - not HSS.  Most of what we do involves the possibility of "Parkinson-like" twitches.  HSS has flex, carbide does not.
 
Reading the reviews - red flags - lots of red flags - the quality of the materials and the gauges of the wires - I fear planned obsolescence and short term obsolescence at that.
 
 

I  checked my copy and there was no plan for Thermopylae.   The period covered falls a decade short of Thermopylae.
 
A different book does
TEA CLIPPERS ,THE                                                
MACGREGOR,DAVID R    CONWAY MARITIME PRESS  LONDON 1983
 
3 sheets  lines,   deck,   spars
There are also photos of the ship - probably of it at an older point in its existence.
The plans are small  - too small.
 
If there are plans in a book by David MacGregor  then the full size 1/4"  are probably in his collection.
I did a key word search and the plans are now owned by an entity that does not seem inclined to provide copies.
 
I think David MacGregor sold plans for a while.  I am not sure if this ship was included but probably so since a pirate site lists a copy that seems to be the three sheets from the book on a single page. 
For these monster size ships, the 1/4" scale plans range about 5' to 6'  long. 
 

Sweet Cherry Prunus avium is more dense than Black Cherry Prunus serotina.
Only birds eat the fruit of Black Cherry as far as I know.  It is mostly the stone, so eating it would be more work than it is worth.  It is used to make wild cherry syrup - an old vehicle for compounded Rx liquids - mainly pediatric.  The syrup is made from the bark, not the fruit.
I do not consider Black Cherry wood to be significantly hard.  It is easy to work and serious sanding can get you into trouble much more quickly than with Hard Maple.
Black Cherry is not very far up my list of wood species for fine detail carving.

Well, the original Italian kit mfg who developed the POB method - named them "bulkheads".  The very name of the method uses it  POB  Plank on bulkhead.
Bulkhead is a complete part of how it is described.   But it is not an actual bulkhead   Steel ships have bulkheads.  Wooden Chinese seagoing junks had bulkheads.  If Titanic had been built with actual bullheads - instead of the transverse barriers stopping short of being chambers that could be sealed, it may have floated long enough and level enough for a more organized abandonment or even help from something large.   As for yachts, is it that they are molded more than a frame?  Thinner than a frame?  Are there yachts built like a submarine with dogged hatches in a barrier across the hull that allows it to be a series of isolated cells?
 
An actual bulkhead is an integral part of the internal structure of a vessel.  In POB,  it is just the shape inside the hull at the station where it is - thus a mold (mould).  The midline support is not a keel.  It is a central spine.  These pretentious names "bulkhead" and "keel"  help with advertising  and salesman hooks.  They are too inculcated to be changed for most kit builders.  But, just like calling a yard - a "yardarm" - calling the part a bulkhead or keel  outside its kit realm is a reflection of depth of knowledge.
 
 

Well, the original Italian kit mfg who developed the POB method - named them "bulkheads".  The very name of the method uses it  POB  Plank on bulkhead.
Bulkhead is a complete part of how it is described.   But it is not an actual bulkhead   Steel ships have bulkheads.  Wooden Chinese seagoing junks had bulkheads.  If Titanic had been built with actual bullheads - instead of the transverse barriers stopping short of being chambers that could be sealed, it may have floated long enough and level enough for a more organized abandonment or even help from something large.   As for yachts, is it that they are molded more than a frame?  Thinner than a frame?  Are there yachts built like a submarine with dogged hatches in a barrier across the hull that allows it to be a series of isolated cells?
 
An actual bulkhead is an integral part of the internal structure of a vessel.  In POB,  it is just the shape inside the hull at the station where it is - thus a mold (mould).  The midline support is not a keel.  It is a central spine.  These pretentious names "bulkhead" and "keel"  help with advertising  and salesman hooks.  They are too inculcated to be changed for most kit builders.  But, just like calling a yard - a "yardarm" - calling the part a bulkhead or keel  outside its kit realm is a reflection of depth of knowledge.
 
 

My apologies if I am missing the questions  or covering something already addressed.
Naming these particular components "bulkheads" often leads to misunderstanding.  They are molds.  They stay in the model for most models of decked ships.  They are not seen, so it does not matter.   This model is a clinker built open boat.  The molds are temporary forms - or at least they should be.  I would build it the same way as I would any model of an open boat.
 
I did not see any plans' preview on the Billing site, so I have no knowledge of what is with this one.
A central spine - the top of which stops where the actual keel meets the garboard plank.  A series of molds to give support and temporary shape to the planking.  When it has done its job, it is discarded - I mean the spine and the attached molds.
 
The actual keel sits on the spine.  The P&S garboards bond to it.  The subsequent rows of planking added - row two P&S - row three P&S, etc.  Doing just one side to completion and then the other is very bad practice.  Continuously check for bilateral symmetry.  Adjust as necessary. 
I have seen Viking hulls with totally misunderstood planking runs.  One such was a cover story on the last series of Ships in Scale.  The problem was that the extreme upturn of the planking at the bow and stern are an illusion.  No real planks can turn up like that.  There was a gentile sheer.  The up turn was a carving.  It started at the rail and lower-  an elaborate stem - not  just a rabbet.
 
The spine and molds can be any material that will hold up.  They are disposable.  Actually for the scratch, they can be a carved sold Pine mold,  carved horizontal layers,  carved transverse layers - which ever fits your style.
 
The ribs for the model go in after the planked shell is completed.  Unlike carvel, they cannot be bent or heat bent*.  The "Z"  of the planking requires pattern work to get a fit. 
Anything ferrous on a model is a disaster.  It rusts , stains, and dissolves away.  On a static model, you will not live long enough to see it - unless someone invents a Niven Autodoc real soon.
Soft brass wire, or given its rapid rate of tarnish - soft copper wire - a possibly interesting color  better than bright brass on a Dark Ages beasty.  Having nothing instead of roves works too.
 
I would consider the tricky structures on the inside of the keel to be a keelson-  attached along the keel  - not of the keel.
 
*(Heat allows the lignin to be manipulated.  Water does not dissolve it.  If it did, trees would melt. Steam is just a messy way to apply heat at model scale. It swells the surface fibers.  For full size timbers - it is necessary.) 
 

My apologies if I am missing the questions  or covering something already addressed.
Naming these particular components "bulkheads" often leads to misunderstanding.  They are molds.  They stay in the model for most models of decked ships.  They are not seen, so it does not matter.   This model is a clinker built open boat.  The molds are temporary forms - or at least they should be.  I would build it the same way as I would any model of an open boat.
 
I did not see any plans' preview on the Billing site, so I have no knowledge of what is with this one.
A central spine - the top of which stops where the actual keel meets the garboard plank.  A series of molds to give support and temporary shape to the planking.  When it has done its job, it is discarded - I mean the spine and the attached molds.
 
The actual keel sits on the spine.  The P&S garboards bond to it.  The subsequent rows of planking added - row two P&S - row three P&S, etc.  Doing just one side to completion and then the other is very bad practice.  Continuously check for bilateral symmetry.  Adjust as necessary. 
I have seen Viking hulls with totally misunderstood planking runs.  One such was a cover story on the last series of Ships in Scale.  The problem was that the extreme upturn of the planking at the bow and stern are an illusion.  No real planks can turn up like that.  There was a gentile sheer.  The up turn was a carving.  It started at the rail and lower-  an elaborate stem - not  just a rabbet.
 
The spine and molds can be any material that will hold up.  They are disposable.  Actually for the scratch, they can be a carved sold Pine mold,  carved horizontal layers,  carved transverse layers - which ever fits your style.
 
The ribs for the model go in after the planked shell is completed.  Unlike carvel, they cannot be bent or heat bent*.  The "Z"  of the planking requires pattern work to get a fit. 
Anything ferrous on a model is a disaster.  It rusts , stains, and dissolves away.  On a static model, you will not live long enough to see it - unless someone invents a Niven Autodoc real soon.
Soft brass wire, or given its rapid rate of tarnish - soft copper wire - a possibly interesting color  better than bright brass on a Dark Ages beasty.  Having nothing instead of roves works too.
 
I would consider the tricky structures on the inside of the keel to be a keelson-  attached along the keel  - not of the keel.
 
*(Heat allows the lignin to be manipulated.  Water does not dissolve it.  If it did, trees would melt. Steam is just a messy way to apply heat at model scale. It swells the surface fibers.  For full size timbers - it is necessary.) 
 

With a plan of the bowsprit, it is just a matter of figuring out how to match.
Wooden kit plans are obligated to show WHAT should be done.  If they do not, that kit is flawed.
Explicit instructions for every step are the need for a beginner kit.  The more sophisticated kits do not need them so much.  The procedures and skills are variations of what has already been learned.  At least this is my take on the situation.  
The OcCre site lists HMS Beagle as being "medium difficulty".  A significant degree of prior experience is expected.   The instructions should not be expected to include what should a part of a builder's skill set going in.  If jumping ahead rather than paying the dues has not worked out,  storing the advanced kit and going to a beginner kit series should fix the situation.
 
For Beagle's bowsprit -   Here is the interpretation of the structure done by Karl Heinz Marquardt :

Description of how to make a 90 deg. channel; 45 deg. L and 45 deg. R cuts.
 
Henry
 
 

I find that an easy way is to scroll down to "Who's on line"   set the cursor on a red or pink? name.  A window should open.  Click on message, filling the blanks and type the message.
 

I checked on Amazon.   AM Arrowmax  offers a small spectrum  of variations,  none of which intersect with my needs. Mostly it is mutually exclusive for the 50-80 wire gauge drill bit function.  Speeds and tool attachment are discordant. The models with a chuck that allows infinite diameter bits do not have the speeds that I require.  The ones with the speed have a fixed size insert.  There is even one with 10,000 to 30,000 RPM if burning a hole instead of drilling one is an aim.
 
The drill bit sets with a fixed size base are usually carbide - not HSS.  Most of what we do involves the possibility of "Parkinson-like" twitches.  HSS has flex, carbide does not.
 
Reading the reviews - red flags - lots of red flags - the quality of the materials and the gauges of the wires - I fear planned obsolescence and short term obsolescence at that.
 
 

I checked on Amazon.   AM Arrowmax  offers a small spectrum  of variations,  none of which intersect with my needs. Mostly it is mutually exclusive for the 50-80 wire gauge drill bit function.  Speeds and tool attachment are discordant. The models with a chuck that allows infinite diameter bits do not have the speeds that I require.  The ones with the speed have a fixed size insert.  There is even one with 10,000 to 30,000 RPM if burning a hole instead of drilling one is an aim.
 
The drill bit sets with a fixed size base are usually carbide - not HSS.  Most of what we do involves the possibility of "Parkinson-like" twitches.  HSS has flex, carbide does not.
 
Reading the reviews - red flags - lots of red flags - the quality of the materials and the gauges of the wires - I fear planned obsolescence and short term obsolescence at that.
 
 

I find that an easy way is to scroll down to "Who's on line"   set the cursor on a red or pink? name.  A window should open.  Click on message, filling the blanks and type the message.
 

I find that an easy way is to scroll down to "Who's on line"   set the cursor on a red or pink? name.  A window should open.  Click on message, filling the blanks and type the message.
 

Underhill's books appear to be still available from the original publisher's web site in the UK  Brown, Son and Ferguson
His plans are also there - almost all are later 19th and early 20th century subjects
 
https://www.skipper.co.uk/catalogue/books/page
https://www.skipper.co.uk/catalogue/item/masting-and-rigging  L 22
https://www.skipper.co.uk/catalogue/item/plank-on-frame-models-and-scale-masting-rigging-volume-1  L 25
https://www.skipper.co.uk/catalogue/item/plank-on-frame-models-and-scale-masting-rigging-volume-2  L 20
https://www.skipper.co.uk/catalogue/item/deep-water-sail L 30
https://www.skipper.co.uk/catalogue/item/sailing-ship-rigs-and-rigging L 16
 
 
Both ANCRE books are " available" 
as written, the shipping is so high that I will no longer consider any purchase.
They need a US agent, and not one focused on avarice  - cough NIP cough
 
https://ancre.fr/en/14-basic-books
 
AN INTRODUCTION TO PLANKED ON FRAME SCALE MODEL SHIP BUILDING
AN INTRODUCTION TO PLANKED ON FRAME SCALE MODEL SHIP BUILDING “DOCKYARD STYLE”
An introduction to Planked on frame model ship building through more than 200 pages illustrated by approximately 500 colour photographs and captions.
 This guide includes explanations on all the techniques used during the construction of a model.
EAN : 9791096873920
Model MODELA
En stock
    Print
Author : Adrian SOROLLA translation by GILLES KORENT
49 Euro
 
The Art of Shipmodeling - Bernard Frolich
The Art of Shipmodeling describes the author's experience and methods in 300 pages abundantly illustrated with numerous drawings, sketchs and more than 600 commentated photos.
Model LART
En stock
    Print
Author : Bernard Frölich
89 Euro
 
 

It is a terrible choice.  It has a relatively short life. It becomes brittle and releases its bond. 
It is thick and does not allow positioning.  There is no easy way to reverse it.
 
Attach Lino to a plywood sheet for something intended to last 10 years or so - go for it.
 
PVA plus heat can become a contract cement of sorts.  A dry even coat on both meeting surfaces plus heat activates a bond.  The outside layer has to be thin enough to allow heat transfer at a temp that does not char or cook the outer layer.

I did not see a log with the deck being laid in process.  It looks like there is a one piece sub deck on top of the molds and individual planks are laid on top.
A deck curve should be easy to add.  Use actual deck beams.  Now the thickness would be much less than an actual deck beam.  The middle would be the thickness of the deck crown,  At the tops of the frames.  At the side, the thickness would feather to zero.  The wider this pseudo beam the happier you will be.
This crowned deck would be done using- a shim that is an arc, actually,  The old How To Build A Ship Model books  show to get an arc or an ellipse over a distance.
 
For the deck - to avoid creating a cartoon by over doing it: 
A touch of walnut aqueous stain or walnut acrylic paint added to the PVA on the plank edges should give you a scale appropriate caulking seam. 
No trunnels.  
Study up in planking butt shifts. 
A 4 butt shift with just a hint of a seam - not a wide -poke you in the eye bowling alley gutter seam. 
The grain makes doing a scratch for a cross plank seam difficult to pull off.   I wonder if one of those ultra thin saws made from a razor blade would leave an even channel  - not deep and filled with walnut PVA would do it?