Jaager

Underhill's books appear to be still available from the original publisher's web site in the UK  Brown, Son and Ferguson
His plans are also there - almost all are later 19th and early 20th century subjects
 
https://www.skipper.co.uk/catalogue/books/page
https://www.skipper.co.uk/catalogue/item/masting-and-rigging  L 22
https://www.skipper.co.uk/catalogue/item/plank-on-frame-models-and-scale-masting-rigging-volume-1  L 25
https://www.skipper.co.uk/catalogue/item/plank-on-frame-models-and-scale-masting-rigging-volume-2  L 20
https://www.skipper.co.uk/catalogue/item/deep-water-sail L 30
https://www.skipper.co.uk/catalogue/item/sailing-ship-rigs-and-rigging L 16
 
 
Both ANCRE books are " available" 
as written, the shipping is so high that I will no longer consider any purchase.
They need a US agent, and not one focused on avarice  - cough NIP cough
 
https://ancre.fr/en/14-basic-books
 
AN INTRODUCTION TO PLANKED ON FRAME SCALE MODEL SHIP BUILDING
AN INTRODUCTION TO PLANKED ON FRAME SCALE MODEL SHIP BUILDING “DOCKYARD STYLE”
An introduction to Planked on frame model ship building through more than 200 pages illustrated by approximately 500 colour photographs and captions.
 This guide includes explanations on all the techniques used during the construction of a model.
EAN : 9791096873920
Model MODELA
En stock
    Print
Author : Adrian SOROLLA translation by GILLES KORENT
49 Euro
 
The Art of Shipmodeling - Bernard Frolich
The Art of Shipmodeling describes the author's experience and methods in 300 pages abundantly illustrated with numerous drawings, sketchs and more than 600 commentated photos.
Model LART
En stock
    Print
Author : Bernard Frölich
89 Euro
 
 

Underhill's books appear to be still available from the original publisher's web site in the UK  Brown, Son and Ferguson
His plans are also there - almost all are later 19th and early 20th century subjects
 
https://www.skipper.co.uk/catalogue/books/page
https://www.skipper.co.uk/catalogue/item/masting-and-rigging  L 22
https://www.skipper.co.uk/catalogue/item/plank-on-frame-models-and-scale-masting-rigging-volume-1  L 25
https://www.skipper.co.uk/catalogue/item/plank-on-frame-models-and-scale-masting-rigging-volume-2  L 20
https://www.skipper.co.uk/catalogue/item/deep-water-sail L 30
https://www.skipper.co.uk/catalogue/item/sailing-ship-rigs-and-rigging L 16
 
 
Both ANCRE books are " available" 
as written, the shipping is so high that I will no longer consider any purchase.
They need a US agent, and not one focused on avarice  - cough NIP cough
 
https://ancre.fr/en/14-basic-books
 
AN INTRODUCTION TO PLANKED ON FRAME SCALE MODEL SHIP BUILDING
AN INTRODUCTION TO PLANKED ON FRAME SCALE MODEL SHIP BUILDING “DOCKYARD STYLE”
An introduction to Planked on frame model ship building through more than 200 pages illustrated by approximately 500 colour photographs and captions.
 This guide includes explanations on all the techniques used during the construction of a model.
EAN : 9791096873920
Model MODELA
En stock
    Print
Author : Adrian SOROLLA translation by GILLES KORENT
49 Euro
 
The Art of Shipmodeling - Bernard Frolich
The Art of Shipmodeling describes the author's experience and methods in 300 pages abundantly illustrated with numerous drawings, sketchs and more than 600 commentated photos.
Model LART
En stock
    Print
Author : Bernard Frölich
89 Euro
 
 

I like CML   https://www.cmlsupply.com/bright-finish/
I aim for USA made if it is a choice for bits  no economy to be had here.
 
What are you using to drive the bits?

I don't think that you really want any of the three of them.
It is difficult for any single book to cover more than a specific era  for model construction methods.   Anything broad tends to be superficial.
 
The two volumes of the Ship Modeler's Shop notes are gems taken from the NRJ.
The basic skills are covered in logs or technical forums here - sometimes a chore to find -  but also to see variations on the theme.  There ain't no single "answer to it".
 
To stay out of a fugue state - it helps to specialize.  Once you specialize, your books should be reprints of contemporary books or books that show the actual practice.
Find out what was actually done and try as best you can to duplicate it at model scale.
 
Gaasbeek comes from a very special time.  WWI era.  There is also Estep and Desmond  and  then Charles Davis' misleading application of what was done for WWI as being relevant to any time before then.   For 20th century large wooden vessels - they are OK sources.   Except for a failed and panic based effort to overcome the U boat sinking of bulk carriers by using wooden hulls,  most large wooden vessels from then on were fantasy based replicas famous historical vessels.   These methods are much more reflective of iron and steel engineered hulls than the construction methods from the Age of Sail. 

Just starting out, you cannot know which shapes will be useful and which are of little or no use.   And that determination is individual - different for each of us.
It looks to me that you have done what is economical and practical.  Time, and use will show you which shapes are your favorite.  If or when these wear out or dull,
you can visit jewelers supply houses and buy quality individual files.
 
When you get to wood for the whole project, masting will be a minor portion of the whole.  Different needs and challenges at every stage.  When comes the time,
try to avoid seducing yourself into something too ambitious.  
 
For a PhD, the old stats were 50% of those who start get to the dissertation only level and only 15% complete to the degree.  It is not that the course work is all that difficult,  it is not.  The faculty is on your side.  They help and encourage.  It is that the process is an endurance test.   I am not unsure that wooden ship model building - especially scratch is not an even more challenging endurance test.

HHS - High Speed Steel    oops -  HSS
I think that the major categories are steel  and carbide.  Not for files but for cutters.  For drill bits - with what we do and the small diameters we use - there is wiggle and flex - carbide is not flexible it may stay sharp a lot longer than steel but any lateral stress breaks it. 
For files  it is diamond vs steel   the steel files do have some bend to them, but they object to being bent over the work like a Japanese garden bridge.  Down force at both ends and work resistance in the middle and heat from friction  and a good quality file becomes two pieces.    It cost me  either a Vallorbe Glardon  or Contenti or Grobet or Vigor  file to learn that lesson.
Diamond must be easier and less expensive to produce than working grooves into hard steel.  The needle file On Sale deals are mostly diamond coated.  I bet that the metal that supports the diamonds ain't the best.

I don't think that you really want any of the three of them.
It is difficult for any single book to cover more than a specific era  for model construction methods.   Anything broad tends to be superficial.
 
The two volumes of the Ship Modeler's Shop notes are gems taken from the NRJ.
The basic skills are covered in logs or technical forums here - sometimes a chore to find -  but also to see variations on the theme.  There ain't no single "answer to it".
 
To stay out of a fugue state - it helps to specialize.  Once you specialize, your books should be reprints of contemporary books or books that show the actual practice.
Find out what was actually done and try as best you can to duplicate it at model scale.
 
Gaasbeek comes from a very special time.  WWI era.  There is also Estep and Desmond  and  then Charles Davis' misleading application of what was done for WWI as being relevant to any time before then.   For 20th century large wooden vessels - they are OK sources.   Except for a failed and panic based effort to overcome the U boat sinking of bulk carriers by using wooden hulls,  most large wooden vessels from then on were fantasy based replicas famous historical vessels.   These methods are much more reflective of iron and steel engineered hulls than the construction methods from the Age of Sail. 

I don't think that you really want any of the three of them.
It is difficult for any single book to cover more than a specific era  for model construction methods.   Anything broad tends to be superficial.
 
The two volumes of the Ship Modeler's Shop notes are gems taken from the NRJ.
The basic skills are covered in logs or technical forums here - sometimes a chore to find -  but also to see variations on the theme.  There ain't no single "answer to it".
 
To stay out of a fugue state - it helps to specialize.  Once you specialize, your books should be reprints of contemporary books or books that show the actual practice.
Find out what was actually done and try as best you can to duplicate it at model scale.
 
Gaasbeek comes from a very special time.  WWI era.  There is also Estep and Desmond  and  then Charles Davis' misleading application of what was done for WWI as being relevant to any time before then.   For 20th century large wooden vessels - they are OK sources.   Except for a failed and panic based effort to overcome the U boat sinking of bulk carriers by using wooden hulls,  most large wooden vessels from then on were fantasy based replicas famous historical vessels.   These methods are much more reflective of iron and steel engineered hulls than the construction methods from the Age of Sail. 

Just starting out, you cannot know which shapes will be useful and which are of little or no use.   And that determination is individual - different for each of us.
It looks to me that you have done what is economical and practical.  Time, and use will show you which shapes are your favorite.  If or when these wear out or dull,
you can visit jewelers supply houses and buy quality individual files.
 
When you get to wood for the whole project, masting will be a minor portion of the whole.  Different needs and challenges at every stage.  When comes the time,
try to avoid seducing yourself into something too ambitious.  
 
For a PhD, the old stats were 50% of those who start get to the dissertation only level and only 15% complete to the degree.  It is not that the course work is all that difficult,  it is not.  The faculty is on your side.  They help and encourage.  It is that the process is an endurance test.   I am not unsure that wooden ship model building - especially scratch is not an even more challenging endurance test.

HHS - High Speed Steel    oops -  HSS
I think that the major categories are steel  and carbide.  Not for files but for cutters.  For drill bits - with what we do and the small diameters we use - there is wiggle and flex - carbide is not flexible it may stay sharp a lot longer than steel but any lateral stress breaks it. 
For files  it is diamond vs steel   the steel files do have some bend to them, but they object to being bent over the work like a Japanese garden bridge.  Down force at both ends and work resistance in the middle and heat from friction  and a good quality file becomes two pieces.    It cost me  either a Vallorbe Glardon  or Contenti or Grobet or Vigor  file to learn that lesson.
Diamond must be easier and less expensive to produce than working grooves into hard steel.  The needle file On Sale deals are mostly diamond coated.  I bet that the metal that supports the diamonds ain't the best.

You have to try them and see if they work.  The tool texts that I have read have it that diamond is for metal - primarily steel is my guess.  I use 220 grit sandpaper more for a smooth finish than removal.
 
HHS jeweler's files - the 4" have the cutting surface designed to cut wood.  needle files - for just this  I would use the flat rectangular equaling shape  - quality is expensive - using economy POS is more expensive in time wasted,  unneeded frustration, and lack of joy in how they perform.  
It is a more difficult grip , but the finger exerting the downward pressure should stay directly above the wood.  HHS that is hard enough to hold an edge is brittle - is does not bend - it snaps.
They come in different "cuts"  00 most aggressive to 6 smoothest    0  2  4  seems to be range readily available.
 
I have never gotten a rasp to work for me at the scales I am about. They rip and tear.     Usually deeper than I wish.  This is why I was so surprised at how well the Stewmac razor file worked.  As far as I know, it is unique.  No other source.  It is expensive.  If you have an open ended budget and you are in this at a serious level and for the long haul - it is worth having. 
 
Until you get to a point where you do not have to ask - a normal razor saw - maybe even Exacto or Zona will do what you wish.  I prefer pull to push  but I spent a lot of time with push to get there.
 
It is a tool that is a series of brass tubes.  They have a sharp edge at one end -something that brass does not hold for long - and a T handle at the other.  They are used to twist a hole thru the center of a cork glass stopper to allow a glass tube to be pushed thru it.  When the borer is removed, there is a cork rod in the bore to be pushed out.  It looks like a dowel - but just looks like one.  These 19th century tech borers do not work so well on Neoprene ( rubber ).  That stuff wants to tear rather than cut if the cutting edge is not really sharp.  Unless you are in a chemistry or more often a biology lab,  I do not see what you would use them for.
 
I have never seen an actual dowel making sawmill - I imagine that a long thin wall steel tube with really sharp teeth - probably a bundle of them - rotating - plunged into the end grain of a bole of wood.  If the trunk of the tree is not a precisely engineered series of of concentric rings, a dowel bored from it will have variable grain.  Splitting - and using a species of wood that grows straight up - and is dense - and has really really small pores - tends to work better as a small scale simulation of a tall Pine tree's wood.
 
There are demonstrations  here doing the same job using larger bore syringe needles to mass produce hardwood trunnels.  ( Personal bias - if I use a trunnel, it will be to actually hold two pieces of wood together - and actual wooden nail - or Bamboo in my case.  I do not see the point of having shallow - just for show trunnels.  These are mostly used on decks.  On an actual ship, special effort was made to make the actual trunnels and bolts ( which were covered with a wooden plug ) as invisible as possible.  Making a deck that looks like it has the Measles is a not realistic modeler convention. 

Just starting out, you cannot know which shapes will be useful and which are of little or no use.   And that determination is individual - different for each of us.
It looks to me that you have done what is economical and practical.  Time, and use will show you which shapes are your favorite.  If or when these wear out or dull,
you can visit jewelers supply houses and buy quality individual files.
 
When you get to wood for the whole project, masting will be a minor portion of the whole.  Different needs and challenges at every stage.  When comes the time,
try to avoid seducing yourself into something too ambitious.  
 
For a PhD, the old stats were 50% of those who start get to the dissertation only level and only 15% complete to the degree.  It is not that the course work is all that difficult,  it is not.  The faculty is on your side.  They help and encourage.  It is that the process is an endurance test.   I am not unsure that wooden ship model building - especially scratch is not an even more challenging endurance test.

I don't think that you really want any of the three of them.
It is difficult for any single book to cover more than a specific era  for model construction methods.   Anything broad tends to be superficial.
 
The two volumes of the Ship Modeler's Shop notes are gems taken from the NRJ.
The basic skills are covered in logs or technical forums here - sometimes a chore to find -  but also to see variations on the theme.  There ain't no single "answer to it".
 
To stay out of a fugue state - it helps to specialize.  Once you specialize, your books should be reprints of contemporary books or books that show the actual practice.
Find out what was actually done and try as best you can to duplicate it at model scale.
 
Gaasbeek comes from a very special time.  WWI era.  There is also Estep and Desmond  and  then Charles Davis' misleading application of what was done for WWI as being relevant to any time before then.   For 20th century large wooden vessels - they are OK sources.   Except for a failed and panic based effort to overcome the U boat sinking of bulk carriers by using wooden hulls,  most large wooden vessels from then on were fantasy based replicas famous historical vessels.   These methods are much more reflective of iron and steel engineered hulls than the construction methods from the Age of Sail. 

I like CML   https://www.cmlsupply.com/bright-finish/
I aim for USA made if it is a choice for bits  no economy to be had here.
 
What are you using to drive the bits?

Just starting out, you cannot know which shapes will be useful and which are of little or no use.   And that determination is individual - different for each of us.
It looks to me that you have done what is economical and practical.  Time, and use will show you which shapes are your favorite.  If or when these wear out or dull,
you can visit jewelers supply houses and buy quality individual files.
 
When you get to wood for the whole project, masting will be a minor portion of the whole.  Different needs and challenges at every stage.  When comes the time,
try to avoid seducing yourself into something too ambitious.  
 
For a PhD, the old stats were 50% of those who start get to the dissertation only level and only 15% complete to the degree.  It is not that the course work is all that difficult,  it is not.  The faculty is on your side.  They help and encourage.  It is that the process is an endurance test.   I am not unsure that wooden ship model building - especially scratch is not an even more challenging endurance test.

HHS - High Speed Steel    oops -  HSS
I think that the major categories are steel  and carbide.  Not for files but for cutters.  For drill bits - with what we do and the small diameters we use - there is wiggle and flex - carbide is not flexible it may stay sharp a lot longer than steel but any lateral stress breaks it. 
For files  it is diamond vs steel   the steel files do have some bend to them, but they object to being bent over the work like a Japanese garden bridge.  Down force at both ends and work resistance in the middle and heat from friction  and a good quality file becomes two pieces.    It cost me  either a Vallorbe Glardon  or Contenti or Grobet or Vigor  file to learn that lesson.
Diamond must be easier and less expensive to produce than working grooves into hard steel.  The needle file On Sale deals are mostly diamond coated.  I bet that the metal that supports the diamonds ain't the best.

I don't think that you really want any of the three of them.
It is difficult for any single book to cover more than a specific era  for model construction methods.   Anything broad tends to be superficial.
 
The two volumes of the Ship Modeler's Shop notes are gems taken from the NRJ.
The basic skills are covered in logs or technical forums here - sometimes a chore to find -  but also to see variations on the theme.  There ain't no single "answer to it".
 
To stay out of a fugue state - it helps to specialize.  Once you specialize, your books should be reprints of contemporary books or books that show the actual practice.
Find out what was actually done and try as best you can to duplicate it at model scale.
 
Gaasbeek comes from a very special time.  WWI era.  There is also Estep and Desmond  and  then Charles Davis' misleading application of what was done for WWI as being relevant to any time before then.   For 20th century large wooden vessels - they are OK sources.   Except for a failed and panic based effort to overcome the U boat sinking of bulk carriers by using wooden hulls,  most large wooden vessels from then on were fantasy based replicas famous historical vessels.   These methods are much more reflective of iron and steel engineered hulls than the construction methods from the Age of Sail. 

I like CML   https://www.cmlsupply.com/bright-finish/
I aim for USA made if it is a choice for bits  no economy to be had here.
 
What are you using to drive the bits?

HHS - High Speed Steel    oops -  HSS
I think that the major categories are steel  and carbide.  Not for files but for cutters.  For drill bits - with what we do and the small diameters we use - there is wiggle and flex - carbide is not flexible it may stay sharp a lot longer than steel but any lateral stress breaks it. 
For files  it is diamond vs steel   the steel files do have some bend to them, but they object to being bent over the work like a Japanese garden bridge.  Down force at both ends and work resistance in the middle and heat from friction  and a good quality file becomes two pieces.    It cost me  either a Vallorbe Glardon  or Contenti or Grobet or Vigor  file to learn that lesson.
Diamond must be easier and less expensive to produce than working grooves into hard steel.  The needle file On Sale deals are mostly diamond coated.  I bet that the metal that supports the diamonds ain't the best.

I don't think that you really want any of the three of them.
It is difficult for any single book to cover more than a specific era  for model construction methods.   Anything broad tends to be superficial.
 
The two volumes of the Ship Modeler's Shop notes are gems taken from the NRJ.
The basic skills are covered in logs or technical forums here - sometimes a chore to find -  but also to see variations on the theme.  There ain't no single "answer to it".
 
To stay out of a fugue state - it helps to specialize.  Once you specialize, your books should be reprints of contemporary books or books that show the actual practice.
Find out what was actually done and try as best you can to duplicate it at model scale.
 
Gaasbeek comes from a very special time.  WWI era.  There is also Estep and Desmond  and  then Charles Davis' misleading application of what was done for WWI as being relevant to any time before then.   For 20th century large wooden vessels - they are OK sources.   Except for a failed and panic based effort to overcome the U boat sinking of bulk carriers by using wooden hulls,  most large wooden vessels from then on were fantasy based replicas famous historical vessels.   These methods are much more reflective of iron and steel engineered hulls than the construction methods from the Age of Sail. 

HHS - High Speed Steel    oops -  HSS
I think that the major categories are steel  and carbide.  Not for files but for cutters.  For drill bits - with what we do and the small diameters we use - there is wiggle and flex - carbide is not flexible it may stay sharp a lot longer than steel but any lateral stress breaks it. 
For files  it is diamond vs steel   the steel files do have some bend to them, but they object to being bent over the work like a Japanese garden bridge.  Down force at both ends and work resistance in the middle and heat from friction  and a good quality file becomes two pieces.    It cost me  either a Vallorbe Glardon  or Contenti or Grobet or Vigor  file to learn that lesson.
Diamond must be easier and less expensive to produce than working grooves into hard steel.  The needle file On Sale deals are mostly diamond coated.  I bet that the metal that supports the diamonds ain't the best.

Unless the color is not appropriate, using it 'As Is' will work;   no treatment is necessary.    If darker is the goal, a wood dye will do the job.
Blue Mold is not like the fungus that turned a trunk of Apple that I had not prepared correctly into meal. 
 
Oxalic acid does work.  I used it on a door of an old book case, Took it back to looking like fresh cut wood.  It was an antique - extreme refinishing was a bad idea - destroyed any value,  but the stuff worked.
 
As far as I can tell, Blue Mold is benign except for the color thing.  If only we could save all of the infected Holly and off-white Holly from going to the breakers and buy it.

You have to try them and see if they work.  The tool texts that I have read have it that diamond is for metal - primarily steel is my guess.  I use 220 grit sandpaper more for a smooth finish than removal.
 
HHS jeweler's files - the 4" have the cutting surface designed to cut wood.  needle files - for just this  I would use the flat rectangular equaling shape  - quality is expensive - using economy POS is more expensive in time wasted,  unneeded frustration, and lack of joy in how they perform.  
It is a more difficult grip , but the finger exerting the downward pressure should stay directly above the wood.  HHS that is hard enough to hold an edge is brittle - is does not bend - it snaps.
They come in different "cuts"  00 most aggressive to 6 smoothest    0  2  4  seems to be range readily available.
 
I have never gotten a rasp to work for me at the scales I am about. They rip and tear.     Usually deeper than I wish.  This is why I was so surprised at how well the Stewmac razor file worked.  As far as I know, it is unique.  No other source.  It is expensive.  If you have an open ended budget and you are in this at a serious level and for the long haul - it is worth having. 
 
Until you get to a point where you do not have to ask - a normal razor saw - maybe even Exacto or Zona will do what you wish.  I prefer pull to push  but I spent a lot of time with push to get there.
 
It is a tool that is a series of brass tubes.  They have a sharp edge at one end -something that brass does not hold for long - and a T handle at the other.  They are used to twist a hole thru the center of a cork glass stopper to allow a glass tube to be pushed thru it.  When the borer is removed, there is a cork rod in the bore to be pushed out.  It looks like a dowel - but just looks like one.  These 19th century tech borers do not work so well on Neoprene ( rubber ).  That stuff wants to tear rather than cut if the cutting edge is not really sharp.  Unless you are in a chemistry or more often a biology lab,  I do not see what you would use them for.
 
I have never seen an actual dowel making sawmill - I imagine that a long thin wall steel tube with really sharp teeth - probably a bundle of them - rotating - plunged into the end grain of a bole of wood.  If the trunk of the tree is not a precisely engineered series of of concentric rings, a dowel bored from it will have variable grain.  Splitting - and using a species of wood that grows straight up - and is dense - and has really really small pores - tends to work better as a small scale simulation of a tall Pine tree's wood.
 
There are demonstrations  here doing the same job using larger bore syringe needles to mass produce hardwood trunnels.  ( Personal bias - if I use a trunnel, it will be to actually hold two pieces of wood together - and actual wooden nail - or Bamboo in my case.  I do not see the point of having shallow - just for show trunnels.  These are mostly used on decks.  On an actual ship, special effort was made to make the actual trunnels and bolts ( which were covered with a wooden plug ) as invisible as possible.  Making a deck that looks like it has the Measles is a not realistic modeler convention. 

You have to try them and see if they work.  The tool texts that I have read have it that diamond is for metal - primarily steel is my guess.  I use 220 grit sandpaper more for a smooth finish than removal.
 
HHS jeweler's files - the 4" have the cutting surface designed to cut wood.  needle files - for just this  I would use the flat rectangular equaling shape  - quality is expensive - using economy POS is more expensive in time wasted,  unneeded frustration, and lack of joy in how they perform.  
It is a more difficult grip , but the finger exerting the downward pressure should stay directly above the wood.  HHS that is hard enough to hold an edge is brittle - is does not bend - it snaps.
They come in different "cuts"  00 most aggressive to 6 smoothest    0  2  4  seems to be range readily available.
 
I have never gotten a rasp to work for me at the scales I am about. They rip and tear.     Usually deeper than I wish.  This is why I was so surprised at how well the Stewmac razor file worked.  As far as I know, it is unique.  No other source.  It is expensive.  If you have an open ended budget and you are in this at a serious level and for the long haul - it is worth having. 
 
Until you get to a point where you do not have to ask - a normal razor saw - maybe even Exacto or Zona will do what you wish.  I prefer pull to push  but I spent a lot of time with push to get there.
 
It is a tool that is a series of brass tubes.  They have a sharp edge at one end -something that brass does not hold for long - and a T handle at the other.  They are used to twist a hole thru the center of a cork glass stopper to allow a glass tube to be pushed thru it.  When the borer is removed, there is a cork rod in the bore to be pushed out.  It looks like a dowel - but just looks like one.  These 19th century tech borers do not work so well on Neoprene ( rubber ).  That stuff wants to tear rather than cut if the cutting edge is not really sharp.  Unless you are in a chemistry or more often a biology lab,  I do not see what you would use them for.
 
I have never seen an actual dowel making sawmill - I imagine that a long thin wall steel tube with really sharp teeth - probably a bundle of them - rotating - plunged into the end grain of a bole of wood.  If the trunk of the tree is not a precisely engineered series of of concentric rings, a dowel bored from it will have variable grain.  Splitting - and using a species of wood that grows straight up - and is dense - and has really really small pores - tends to work better as a small scale simulation of a tall Pine tree's wood.
 
There are demonstrations  here doing the same job using larger bore syringe needles to mass produce hardwood trunnels.  ( Personal bias - if I use a trunnel, it will be to actually hold two pieces of wood together - and actual wooden nail - or Bamboo in my case.  I do not see the point of having shallow - just for show trunnels.  These are mostly used on decks.  On an actual ship, special effort was made to make the actual trunnels and bolts ( which were covered with a wooden plug ) as invisible as possible.  Making a deck that looks like it has the Measles is a not realistic modeler convention. 

A 90 degree channel   45 degrees L  45 degrees R   - probably will need several with a range of depths  
Way back when,  it seemed to me that every "how to build ship models" book covered this method.
 
A miniature block plane,
scrapers - small steel luthiers , a freshly broken piece of glass, a single edge razor blade or carpet knife blade in a homemade wooden holder.
StewMac has a small flat razor file that eats wood yet leaves a smooth surface (if you get serious about this - they also have one named  Ultimate mini scraper - a bit dear in cost, sold out right now, and something you don't want to drop if your working surface is a tempered glass plate with beveled edges - it has some heft/mass.
warding files
 
Save the sandpaper until the end. 
 
Try Hard Maple for your masts -  
Birch dowels are made using something like a cork borer - straight grain along the whole length is just luck.