Jaager

Given your space limitations, if the hook gets firmly set and the scratch bug bites you there is an ultimate target that might fit.
That target is miniature scale large vessels.  The necessary skills veer heavily toward the artistic.

Various protein based adhesives were pretty much all that was available before WWI.  There are hide glues that are still commercially available.  They probably rate more consideration than we give them.
I wonder if shellac would serve as a rigging fixative?  The less extracted grades of flakes - dark auburn and amber   may even turn inappropriate bleached running rigging into a more accurate straw color.  They would be easy to apply and have an effective reverse gear.

Various protein based adhesives were pretty much all that was available before WWI.  There are hide glues that are still commercially available.  They probably rate more consideration than we give them.
I wonder if shellac would serve as a rigging fixative?  The less extracted grades of flakes - dark auburn and amber   may even turn inappropriate bleached running rigging into a more accurate straw color.  They would be easy to apply and have an effective reverse gear.

I would add Underhill to basic library list.
If you favor wooden sail of US subjects, most everything that HIC wrote can be useful.  How much depends on your focus.
 
If you have a supply source with post office boxes, you may be able to use Amazon to obtain additional tools while in the boonies.
 
Plastic kits are where the instructions are expected to cover any information needed - except sophisticated painting and weathering.
Wooden ship model kit instructions are mostly about details that are unique to the subject being modeled.
The general techniques are so diverse and dense that it is not realistic nor possible for a kit to supply them.
If you get hooked into all of this for the long term, the store here is a good base.
Two printed volumes of shop notes.  CDs that have all volumes of NRJ,  SIS, and MB.  The latter two are very much more kit centric than NRJ.  The NRJ was and should still be mostly focused on what a spy would report about his current ships- shape and parts - narration about what was happening..
There is no single book that does it all.  It is a matter of cherry picking a technique here and a tip there.  This involves lots and lots of "trees" to pick from. 

One of mine is a hollow core no panel Lauan closet door. 
I cemented a layer of Linoleum to the top.  I see that now they are Masonite.
The wider - the better.   The length can be shortened and a piece of Pine glued in the opening if 80" is too long.
There is a furring strip back splash - two power strips fixed to it, with two large holes for the power strip cords.
 
The base is two economy 2 drawer file cabinets.
I discarded the drawers and fixed plywood shelves.
I used wood scrap glued to the underside of the door to make two sockets for the top of the cabinets.
The bottom of the cabinets can sit on wood risers to get a preferred bench top  height.
 
I have a second version with a narrow width door as the bench top.  It sits on two kitchen cabinet bases.  One has drawers and the other has shelves and doors.  The legroom  is less but the additional height gets my drill press and other machines up to a better working height.
 
 

One of mine is a hollow core no panel Lauan closet door. 
I cemented a layer of Linoleum to the top.  I see that now they are Masonite.
The wider - the better.   The length can be shortened and a piece of Pine glued in the opening if 80" is too long.
There is a furring strip back splash - two power strips fixed to it, with two large holes for the power strip cords.
 
The base is two economy 2 drawer file cabinets.
I discarded the drawers and fixed plywood shelves.
I used wood scrap glued to the underside of the door to make two sockets for the top of the cabinets.
The bottom of the cabinets can sit on wood risers to get a preferred bench top  height.
 
I have a second version with a narrow width door as the bench top.  It sits on two kitchen cabinet bases.  One has drawers and the other has shelves and doors.  The legroom  is less but the additional height gets my drill press and other machines up to a better working height.
 
 

One of mine is a hollow core no panel Lauan closet door. 
I cemented a layer of Linoleum to the top.  I see that now they are Masonite.
The wider - the better.   The length can be shortened and a piece of Pine glued in the opening if 80" is too long.
There is a furring strip back splash - two power strips fixed to it, with two large holes for the power strip cords.
 
The base is two economy 2 drawer file cabinets.
I discarded the drawers and fixed plywood shelves.
I used wood scrap glued to the underside of the door to make two sockets for the top of the cabinets.
The bottom of the cabinets can sit on wood risers to get a preferred bench top  height.
 
I have a second version with a narrow width door as the bench top.  It sits on two kitchen cabinet bases.  One has drawers and the other has shelves and doors.  The legroom  is less but the additional height gets my drill press and other machines up to a better working height.
 
 

One of mine is a hollow core no panel Lauan closet door. 
I cemented a layer of Linoleum to the top.  I see that now they are Masonite.
The wider - the better.   The length can be shortened and a piece of Pine glued in the opening if 80" is too long.
There is a furring strip back splash - two power strips fixed to it, with two large holes for the power strip cords.
 
The base is two economy 2 drawer file cabinets.
I discarded the drawers and fixed plywood shelves.
I used wood scrap glued to the underside of the door to make two sockets for the top of the cabinets.
The bottom of the cabinets can sit on wood risers to get a preferred bench top  height.
 
I have a second version with a narrow width door as the bench top.  It sits on two kitchen cabinet bases.  One has drawers and the other has shelves and doors.  The legroom  is less but the additional height gets my drill press and other machines up to a better working height.
 
 

One of mine is a hollow core no panel Lauan closet door. 
I cemented a layer of Linoleum to the top.  I see that now they are Masonite.
The wider - the better.   The length can be shortened and a piece of Pine glued in the opening if 80" is too long.
There is a furring strip back splash - two power strips fixed to it, with two large holes for the power strip cords.
 
The base is two economy 2 drawer file cabinets.
I discarded the drawers and fixed plywood shelves.
I used wood scrap glued to the underside of the door to make two sockets for the top of the cabinets.
The bottom of the cabinets can sit on wood risers to get a preferred bench top  height.
 
I have a second version with a narrow width door as the bench top.  It sits on two kitchen cabinet bases.  One has drawers and the other has shelves and doors.  The legroom  is less but the additional height gets my drill press and other machines up to a better working height.
 
 

One of mine is a hollow core no panel Lauan closet door. 
I cemented a layer of Linoleum to the top.  I see that now they are Masonite.
The wider - the better.   The length can be shortened and a piece of Pine glued in the opening if 80" is too long.
There is a furring strip back splash - two power strips fixed to it, with two large holes for the power strip cords.
 
The base is two economy 2 drawer file cabinets.
I discarded the drawers and fixed plywood shelves.
I used wood scrap glued to the underside of the door to make two sockets for the top of the cabinets.
The bottom of the cabinets can sit on wood risers to get a preferred bench top  height.
 
I have a second version with a narrow width door as the bench top.  It sits on two kitchen cabinet bases.  One has drawers and the other has shelves and doors.  The legroom  is less but the additional height gets my drill press and other machines up to a better working height.
 
 

One of mine is a hollow core no panel Lauan closet door. 
I cemented a layer of Linoleum to the top.  I see that now they are Masonite.
The wider - the better.   The length can be shortened and a piece of Pine glued in the opening if 80" is too long.
There is a furring strip back splash - two power strips fixed to it, with two large holes for the power strip cords.
 
The base is two economy 2 drawer file cabinets.
I discarded the drawers and fixed plywood shelves.
I used wood scrap glued to the underside of the door to make two sockets for the top of the cabinets.
The bottom of the cabinets can sit on wood risers to get a preferred bench top  height.
 
I have a second version with a narrow width door as the bench top.  It sits on two kitchen cabinet bases.  One has drawers and the other has shelves and doors.  The legroom  is less but the additional height gets my drill press and other machines up to a better working height.
 
 

I would add Underhill to basic library list.
If you favor wooden sail of US subjects, most everything that HIC wrote can be useful.  How much depends on your focus.
 
If you have a supply source with post office boxes, you may be able to use Amazon to obtain additional tools while in the boonies.
 
Plastic kits are where the instructions are expected to cover any information needed - except sophisticated painting and weathering.
Wooden ship model kit instructions are mostly about details that are unique to the subject being modeled.
The general techniques are so diverse and dense that it is not realistic nor possible for a kit to supply them.
If you get hooked into all of this for the long term, the store here is a good base.
Two printed volumes of shop notes.  CDs that have all volumes of NRJ,  SIS, and MB.  The latter two are very much more kit centric than NRJ.  The NRJ was and should still be mostly focused on what a spy would report about his current ships- shape and parts - narration about what was happening..
There is no single book that does it all.  It is a matter of cherry picking a technique here and a tip there.  This involves lots and lots of "trees" to pick from. 

I would add Underhill to basic library list.
If you favor wooden sail of US subjects, most everything that HIC wrote can be useful.  How much depends on your focus.
 
If you have a supply source with post office boxes, you may be able to use Amazon to obtain additional tools while in the boonies.
 
Plastic kits are where the instructions are expected to cover any information needed - except sophisticated painting and weathering.
Wooden ship model kit instructions are mostly about details that are unique to the subject being modeled.
The general techniques are so diverse and dense that it is not realistic nor possible for a kit to supply them.
If you get hooked into all of this for the long term, the store here is a good base.
Two printed volumes of shop notes.  CDs that have all volumes of NRJ,  SIS, and MB.  The latter two are very much more kit centric than NRJ.  The NRJ was and should still be mostly focused on what a spy would report about his current ships- shape and parts - narration about what was happening..
There is no single book that does it all.  It is a matter of cherry picking a technique here and a tip there.  This involves lots and lots of "trees" to pick from. 

I would add Underhill to basic library list.
If you favor wooden sail of US subjects, most everything that HIC wrote can be useful.  How much depends on your focus.
 
If you have a supply source with post office boxes, you may be able to use Amazon to obtain additional tools while in the boonies.
 
Plastic kits are where the instructions are expected to cover any information needed - except sophisticated painting and weathering.
Wooden ship model kit instructions are mostly about details that are unique to the subject being modeled.
The general techniques are so diverse and dense that it is not realistic nor possible for a kit to supply them.
If you get hooked into all of this for the long term, the store here is a good base.
Two printed volumes of shop notes.  CDs that have all volumes of NRJ,  SIS, and MB.  The latter two are very much more kit centric than NRJ.  The NRJ was and should still be mostly focused on what a spy would report about his current ships- shape and parts - narration about what was happening..
There is no single book that does it all.  It is a matter of cherry picking a technique here and a tip there.  This involves lots and lots of "trees" to pick from. 

I would add Underhill to basic library list.
If you favor wooden sail of US subjects, most everything that HIC wrote can be useful.  How much depends on your focus.
 
If you have a supply source with post office boxes, you may be able to use Amazon to obtain additional tools while in the boonies.
 
Plastic kits are where the instructions are expected to cover any information needed - except sophisticated painting and weathering.
Wooden ship model kit instructions are mostly about details that are unique to the subject being modeled.
The general techniques are so diverse and dense that it is not realistic nor possible for a kit to supply them.
If you get hooked into all of this for the long term, the store here is a good base.
Two printed volumes of shop notes.  CDs that have all volumes of NRJ,  SIS, and MB.  The latter two are very much more kit centric than NRJ.  The NRJ was and should still be mostly focused on what a spy would report about his current ships- shape and parts - narration about what was happening..
There is no single book that does it all.  It is a matter of cherry picking a technique here and a tip there.  This involves lots and lots of "trees" to pick from. 

For this rigging function,  starting with Zinsser clear - any dilution would be a wet finger in the wind sort of thing, but probably in the very slight range  i.e.  1 part thinner to 9 parts saturated shellac.
 
Shellac has several grades
one is ruby red
more common is amber
then blonde / super blonde- which is also termed clear
there is also an "ultra" clear grade that probably falls the negative side of a cost vs benefit determination.
The material removed to lighten the color is a wax - or it is called a wax.
This wax also helps solublize the shellac.  The closer the grade is to water clear, the lower is the concentration at saturation.
Also, shellac flakes have a definite shelf life.  The older the flakes, the less soluble they are.  If they do not dissolve fairly quickly, I would advise trashing them, eat the loss and buy fresh.
If you are not familiar with shellac - it is probably better to buy the already dissolved version.  The aerosol version strikes me as being a completely absurd and pointless product.
 
Shellac is soluble in alcohols.
Way back when, it was methanol (methyl alcohol, wood alcohol)  It has the advantage is being free of water.  It will also ruin your life if you drink it.  It may be difficult to find now.
Shellac thinner now is ethanol. From a practical position it is 95%.  The 5% water is all but covalently bonded.
Shellac "loves" water.  It shows its joy in binding with it, by turning white.  It is easily repaired, but no fun to do.
The 5% in shellac thinner is not enough water to be a problem
100% isopropyl alcohol will also work as a solvent
A primer coat of shellac on a wood surface is a 1:1 dilution of the saturated shellac.
Amber shellac seems to be about twice as soluble as super blonde -  the ultra is maybe even less soluble with a short shelf life.
 
 

For this rigging function,  starting with Zinsser clear - any dilution would be a wet finger in the wind sort of thing, but probably in the very slight range  i.e.  1 part thinner to 9 parts saturated shellac.
 
Shellac has several grades
one is ruby red
more common is amber
then blonde / super blonde- which is also termed clear
there is also an "ultra" clear grade that probably falls the negative side of a cost vs benefit determination.
The material removed to lighten the color is a wax - or it is called a wax.
This wax also helps solublize the shellac.  The closer the grade is to water clear, the lower is the concentration at saturation.
Also, shellac flakes have a definite shelf life.  The older the flakes, the less soluble they are.  If they do not dissolve fairly quickly, I would advise trashing them, eat the loss and buy fresh.
If you are not familiar with shellac - it is probably better to buy the already dissolved version.  The aerosol version strikes me as being a completely absurd and pointless product.
 
Shellac is soluble in alcohols.
Way back when, it was methanol (methyl alcohol, wood alcohol)  It has the advantage is being free of water.  It will also ruin your life if you drink it.  It may be difficult to find now.
Shellac thinner now is ethanol. From a practical position it is 95%.  The 5% water is all but covalently bonded.
Shellac "loves" water.  It shows its joy in binding with it, by turning white.  It is easily repaired, but no fun to do.
The 5% in shellac thinner is not enough water to be a problem
100% isopropyl alcohol will also work as a solvent
A primer coat of shellac on a wood surface is a 1:1 dilution of the saturated shellac.
Amber shellac seems to be about twice as soluble as super blonde -  the ultra is maybe even less soluble with a short shelf life.
 
 

For this rigging function,  starting with Zinsser clear - any dilution would be a wet finger in the wind sort of thing, but probably in the very slight range  i.e.  1 part thinner to 9 parts saturated shellac.
 
Shellac has several grades
one is ruby red
more common is amber
then blonde / super blonde- which is also termed clear
there is also an "ultra" clear grade that probably falls the negative side of a cost vs benefit determination.
The material removed to lighten the color is a wax - or it is called a wax.
This wax also helps solublize the shellac.  The closer the grade is to water clear, the lower is the concentration at saturation.
Also, shellac flakes have a definite shelf life.  The older the flakes, the less soluble they are.  If they do not dissolve fairly quickly, I would advise trashing them, eat the loss and buy fresh.
If you are not familiar with shellac - it is probably better to buy the already dissolved version.  The aerosol version strikes me as being a completely absurd and pointless product.
 
Shellac is soluble in alcohols.
Way back when, it was methanol (methyl alcohol, wood alcohol)  It has the advantage is being free of water.  It will also ruin your life if you drink it.  It may be difficult to find now.
Shellac thinner now is ethanol. From a practical position it is 95%.  The 5% water is all but covalently bonded.
Shellac "loves" water.  It shows its joy in binding with it, by turning white.  It is easily repaired, but no fun to do.
The 5% in shellac thinner is not enough water to be a problem
100% isopropyl alcohol will also work as a solvent
A primer coat of shellac on a wood surface is a 1:1 dilution of the saturated shellac.
Amber shellac seems to be about twice as soluble as super blonde -  the ultra is maybe even less soluble with a short shelf life.
 
 

For this rigging function,  starting with Zinsser clear - any dilution would be a wet finger in the wind sort of thing, but probably in the very slight range  i.e.  1 part thinner to 9 parts saturated shellac.
 
Shellac has several grades
one is ruby red
more common is amber
then blonde / super blonde- which is also termed clear
there is also an "ultra" clear grade that probably falls the negative side of a cost vs benefit determination.
The material removed to lighten the color is a wax - or it is called a wax.
This wax also helps solublize the shellac.  The closer the grade is to water clear, the lower is the concentration at saturation.
Also, shellac flakes have a definite shelf life.  The older the flakes, the less soluble they are.  If they do not dissolve fairly quickly, I would advise trashing them, eat the loss and buy fresh.
If you are not familiar with shellac - it is probably better to buy the already dissolved version.  The aerosol version strikes me as being a completely absurd and pointless product.
 
Shellac is soluble in alcohols.
Way back when, it was methanol (methyl alcohol, wood alcohol)  It has the advantage is being free of water.  It will also ruin your life if you drink it.  It may be difficult to find now.
Shellac thinner now is ethanol. From a practical position it is 95%.  The 5% water is all but covalently bonded.
Shellac "loves" water.  It shows its joy in binding with it, by turning white.  It is easily repaired, but no fun to do.
The 5% in shellac thinner is not enough water to be a problem
100% isopropyl alcohol will also work as a solvent
A primer coat of shellac on a wood surface is a 1:1 dilution of the saturated shellac.
Amber shellac seems to be about twice as soluble as super blonde -  the ultra is maybe even less soluble with a short shelf life.
 
 

For this rigging function,  starting with Zinsser clear - any dilution would be a wet finger in the wind sort of thing, but probably in the very slight range  i.e.  1 part thinner to 9 parts saturated shellac.
 
Shellac has several grades
one is ruby red
more common is amber
then blonde / super blonde- which is also termed clear
there is also an "ultra" clear grade that probably falls the negative side of a cost vs benefit determination.
The material removed to lighten the color is a wax - or it is called a wax.
This wax also helps solublize the shellac.  The closer the grade is to water clear, the lower is the concentration at saturation.
Also, shellac flakes have a definite shelf life.  The older the flakes, the less soluble they are.  If they do not dissolve fairly quickly, I would advise trashing them, eat the loss and buy fresh.
If you are not familiar with shellac - it is probably better to buy the already dissolved version.  The aerosol version strikes me as being a completely absurd and pointless product.
 
Shellac is soluble in alcohols.
Way back when, it was methanol (methyl alcohol, wood alcohol)  It has the advantage is being free of water.  It will also ruin your life if you drink it.  It may be difficult to find now.
Shellac thinner now is ethanol. From a practical position it is 95%.  The 5% water is all but covalently bonded.
Shellac "loves" water.  It shows its joy in binding with it, by turning white.  It is easily repaired, but no fun to do.
The 5% in shellac thinner is not enough water to be a problem
100% isopropyl alcohol will also work as a solvent
A primer coat of shellac on a wood surface is a 1:1 dilution of the saturated shellac.
Amber shellac seems to be about twice as soluble as super blonde -  the ultra is maybe even less soluble with a short shelf life.
 
 

For this rigging function,  starting with Zinsser clear - any dilution would be a wet finger in the wind sort of thing, but probably in the very slight range  i.e.  1 part thinner to 9 parts saturated shellac.
 
Shellac has several grades
one is ruby red
more common is amber
then blonde / super blonde- which is also termed clear
there is also an "ultra" clear grade that probably falls the negative side of a cost vs benefit determination.
The material removed to lighten the color is a wax - or it is called a wax.
This wax also helps solublize the shellac.  The closer the grade is to water clear, the lower is the concentration at saturation.
Also, shellac flakes have a definite shelf life.  The older the flakes, the less soluble they are.  If they do not dissolve fairly quickly, I would advise trashing them, eat the loss and buy fresh.
If you are not familiar with shellac - it is probably better to buy the already dissolved version.  The aerosol version strikes me as being a completely absurd and pointless product.
 
Shellac is soluble in alcohols.
Way back when, it was methanol (methyl alcohol, wood alcohol)  It has the advantage is being free of water.  It will also ruin your life if you drink it.  It may be difficult to find now.
Shellac thinner now is ethanol. From a practical position it is 95%.  The 5% water is all but covalently bonded.
Shellac "loves" water.  It shows its joy in binding with it, by turning white.  It is easily repaired, but no fun to do.
The 5% in shellac thinner is not enough water to be a problem
100% isopropyl alcohol will also work as a solvent
A primer coat of shellac on a wood surface is a 1:1 dilution of the saturated shellac.
Amber shellac seems to be about twice as soluble as super blonde -  the ultra is maybe even less soluble with a short shelf life.
 
 

For this rigging function,  starting with Zinsser clear - any dilution would be a wet finger in the wind sort of thing, but probably in the very slight range  i.e.  1 part thinner to 9 parts saturated shellac.
 
Shellac has several grades
one is ruby red
more common is amber
then blonde / super blonde- which is also termed clear
there is also an "ultra" clear grade that probably falls the negative side of a cost vs benefit determination.
The material removed to lighten the color is a wax - or it is called a wax.
This wax also helps solublize the shellac.  The closer the grade is to water clear, the lower is the concentration at saturation.
Also, shellac flakes have a definite shelf life.  The older the flakes, the less soluble they are.  If they do not dissolve fairly quickly, I would advise trashing them, eat the loss and buy fresh.
If you are not familiar with shellac - it is probably better to buy the already dissolved version.  The aerosol version strikes me as being a completely absurd and pointless product.
 
Shellac is soluble in alcohols.
Way back when, it was methanol (methyl alcohol, wood alcohol)  It has the advantage is being free of water.  It will also ruin your life if you drink it.  It may be difficult to find now.
Shellac thinner now is ethanol. From a practical position it is 95%.  The 5% water is all but covalently bonded.
Shellac "loves" water.  It shows its joy in binding with it, by turning white.  It is easily repaired, but no fun to do.
The 5% in shellac thinner is not enough water to be a problem
100% isopropyl alcohol will also work as a solvent
A primer coat of shellac on a wood surface is a 1:1 dilution of the saturated shellac.
Amber shellac seems to be about twice as soluble as super blonde -  the ultra is maybe even less soluble with a short shelf life.
 
 

A Web search =
3 possible
A Loctite two part CA product    dangerous chemicals and probably tends to spread
A polyprop hot melt glue stick   difficult to hide, limit the amount, and not get burned fingers
One of the several Gorilla glue varieties.   no idea  - but it could be company hype passing as objective rec
 
PE and PP have a surface that is glass-like in that there is no opportunity for a mechanical bond system to work.
 

A Web search =
3 possible
A Loctite two part CA product    dangerous chemicals and probably tends to spread
A polyprop hot melt glue stick   difficult to hide, limit the amount, and not get burned fingers
One of the several Gorilla glue varieties.   no idea  - but it could be company hype passing as objective rec
 
PE and PP have a surface that is glass-like in that there is no opportunity for a mechanical bond system to work.
 

A Web search =
3 possible
A Loctite two part CA product    dangerous chemicals and probably tends to spread
A polyprop hot melt glue stick   difficult to hide, limit the amount, and not get burned fingers
One of the several Gorilla glue varieties.   no idea  - but it could be company hype passing as objective rec
 
PE and PP have a surface that is glass-like in that there is no opportunity for a mechanical bond system to work.