Jaager

Siggi,
 
As I viewed your table saw setup for the short pieces,  I am wondering if your have or have considered making a sliding crosscut table?  It helps with multiple replicate cuts on stock that is ~ 3/4 as long as the saw table is front to back if your table is the same XY as the table top.  It also makes it easier to keep your fingers an addition step away from the blade.

With that many  hoses there is a possibility of your work bench resembling the apartment ceiling in Terry Gilliam's Brazil. 
If you have not already done it, an in-line cyclone trap.   It weighs less and is easier to move, so one long hose between it and the vac.  The vac can stay in one place.  If you are fortunate, that place is a separate room or outside.  A radio remote router on-off box (not economy version) saves a lot of hassle.

The Wood Database url:
https://www.wood-database.com/wood-filter/

Your main problem is probably that it is Oak that you are working with.
 
This is how I categorize your stock for my purposes:
Oak of any species in either family: Red Oak or White Oak,  are scale inappropriate for miniature scales.  Ignoring the open pores and distinct and high contrast grain, you are finding that the fibers can roll, and are prone to tear out.  It would be among my very last choices of commercial hardwoods to use.  Right with Oak is Ash, Hickory, Willow, Chestnut, Sassafras, softer Elm and any sort of Cottonwood (This whole family is awful. They are fast growing trash trees.)
 
Lime is excellent for full size carving,  carved hulls, but is too soft for me.  Basswood is a near relative from North America. BUT, it is about one half as hard as Lime and Lime is already really soft.  It is difficult to get Basswood to hold a sharp edge.
 
Boxwood  - real Boxwood - Buxus simpervirens - is a common wood used in the 17th century models.  It is all but impossible to source in any size suitable for major hull structures.  What you can get should probably be horded for figurehead and decorative carvings as well as blocks and deadeyes.   What you may be able to get in any size is a South American substitute - Castelo boxwood - Calycophyllum multiflorum.  The two species have become so confused  that it is often regarded with the same cachet as true Boxwood.  This has increased the demand, and the price, and reduced the availability.  The characteristics of the two are very similar.  It is not the same though.  If your goal is prestige and bragging rights and how much you spend is of no consequence, have at it.  It will achieve that for you.  If you are after a practical, less expensive, and readily obtainable stock of wood to use, there are other options closer to home.
 
Looking at the Wood Database I see the following possibilities:
Sycamore Maple - good for most any part including spars   ( avoid any sort of Soft Maple species )
European Hornbeam
European Beech
Silver Birch
Pear -  if you like darker wood - get as much as you can -
Apple - is king
Holly - the only limitation is getting any and affording it if you can.
 
Imports that you may have a shot at
Lancewood - spars
Yellowheart
 
 
 

I checked Rio Grande  and they sell a 90 degree  Hart  carbide  burr    3/32" / 2.38mm   shank.
Head size ranges from 0.9mm to 2.3mm.
The mfg is a German company  Busch.   They must have vendors on the right side of the Atlantic as well as the left side.
On your side -perhaps in a metric friendly shank.
 

Your main problem is probably that it is Oak that you are working with.
 
This is how I categorize your stock for my purposes:
Oak of any species in either family: Red Oak or White Oak,  are scale inappropriate for miniature scales.  Ignoring the open pores and distinct and high contrast grain, you are finding that the fibers can roll, and are prone to tear out.  It would be among my very last choices of commercial hardwoods to use.  Right with Oak is Ash, Hickory, Willow, Chestnut, Sassafras, softer Elm and any sort of Cottonwood (This whole family is awful. They are fast growing trash trees.)
 
Lime is excellent for full size carving,  carved hulls, but is too soft for me.  Basswood is a near relative from North America. BUT, it is about one half as hard as Lime and Lime is already really soft.  It is difficult to get Basswood to hold a sharp edge.
 
Boxwood  - real Boxwood - Buxus simpervirens - is a common wood used in the 17th century models.  It is all but impossible to source in any size suitable for major hull structures.  What you can get should probably be horded for figurehead and decorative carvings as well as blocks and deadeyes.   What you may be able to get in any size is a South American substitute - Castelo boxwood - Calycophyllum multiflorum.  The two species have become so confused  that it is often regarded with the same cachet as true Boxwood.  This has increased the demand, and the price, and reduced the availability.  The characteristics of the two are very similar.  It is not the same though.  If your goal is prestige and bragging rights and how much you spend is of no consequence, have at it.  It will achieve that for you.  If you are after a practical, less expensive, and readily obtainable stock of wood to use, there are other options closer to home.
 
Looking at the Wood Database I see the following possibilities:
Sycamore Maple - good for most any part including spars   ( avoid any sort of Soft Maple species )
European Hornbeam
European Beech
Silver Birch
Pear -  if you like darker wood - get as much as you can -
Apple - is king
Holly - the only limitation is getting any and affording it if you can.
 
Imports that you may have a shot at
Lancewood - spars
Yellowheart
 
 
 

There is information on table saw blade selection in the articles database here.  Specifically:
https://thenrg.org/resources/Documents/articles/ByrnesTableSawTips.pdf
The blade part is generic and not just for the Byrnes saw.
 
Playing with the physics
Blade set -  the angle out from the blade disk for the teeth  -alternating R&L - it  increase the loss to kerf.  The greater the set the rougher is the surface of a sliced board.  It also eases the work that a saw most supply to get thru a board.
A slotting blade may have a high TPI and no set.  The design purpose is probably for shallow cuts thru metal.
No set = less loss to kerf, a blade disk that is in friction contact with the cut surface of the board.  The friction may burn the wood, heat the blade and it may wandered in a serpentine track thru the wood.
TPI - the cutting edge is a knife that shaves off curls of wood.  There is a gullet under the edge to hold the curls.  If the gullet fills part way thru a cut - the knife no longer cuts, it friction rubs.   I believe the "rule is 3 teeth in the thickness of the board being cut. 
Fewer teeth and the edge is probably an ax and not a knife - a hammer effect.  Too many teeth and the gullets fill before they leave a cut.
I theorize that higher density wood has less air and more material to remove.  This increases the work that a motor must provide.  There is more material per slice so the gullet fills more quickly. This means that the feed rate must be slow.  Fewer teeth gets you back to the hammer effect.
Blade thickness - a thinner blade produces less kerf.  It also heats more quickly and is prone to flex as it seeks the path of least resistance.  A balance is what is required unless loss to kerf is not a care.
 
 

There is information on table saw blade selection in the articles database here.  Specifically:
https://thenrg.org/resources/Documents/articles/ByrnesTableSawTips.pdf
The blade part is generic and not just for the Byrnes saw.
 
Playing with the physics
Blade set -  the angle out from the blade disk for the teeth  -alternating R&L - it  increase the loss to kerf.  The greater the set the rougher is the surface of a sliced board.  It also eases the work that a saw most supply to get thru a board.
A slotting blade may have a high TPI and no set.  The design purpose is probably for shallow cuts thru metal.
No set = less loss to kerf, a blade disk that is in friction contact with the cut surface of the board.  The friction may burn the wood, heat the blade and it may wandered in a serpentine track thru the wood.
TPI - the cutting edge is a knife that shaves off curls of wood.  There is a gullet under the edge to hold the curls.  If the gullet fills part way thru a cut - the knife no longer cuts, it friction rubs.   I believe the "rule is 3 teeth in the thickness of the board being cut. 
Fewer teeth and the edge is probably an ax and not a knife - a hammer effect.  Too many teeth and the gullets fill before they leave a cut.
I theorize that higher density wood has less air and more material to remove.  This increases the work that a motor must provide.  There is more material per slice so the gullet fills more quickly. This means that the feed rate must be slow.  Fewer teeth gets you back to the hammer effect.
Blade thickness - a thinner blade produces less kerf.  It also heats more quickly and is prone to flex as it seeks the path of least resistance.  A balance is what is required unless loss to kerf is not a care.
 
 

We do tend to wander a bit in discussions.  My apologies for continuing the "off topic" part but it seemed to fit the topic.  Chapelle was right on many things. I have his books that have been well thumbed.   His not following conventional wisdom has been a blessing. 

I checked Rio Grande  and they sell a 90 degree  Hart  carbide  burr    3/32" / 2.38mm   shank.
Head size ranges from 0.9mm to 2.3mm.
The mfg is a German company  Busch.   They must have vendors on the right side of the Atlantic as well as the left side.
On your side -perhaps in a metric friendly shank.
 

While Howard I. Chapelle wrote in an era when his position as an academic author and employee of the Smithsonian was accorded the respect it deserved, he was nonetheless quite controversial in some matters. 
 
The controversy for which he is most famous had to do with his correct assessment that the USS Constellation of 1797 and the USS Constellation of 1854 were entirely distinct ships, a dispute which festered for some time between Boston, with USS Constitution and Baltimore with USS Constellation, which promoters argued was one and the same with the 1797 frigate which had actually been broken up in 1853, the USS Constellation of 1854, built a year later, being the original Constellation's replacement.
 
Chapelle's drawings have been criticized for inaccuracies and a penchant for his substituting information when such was lacking. Given the nature of the work he was doing, and particularly the work of others he was directing during the WPA Historic American Merchant Marine Survey, these being out of work architects, engineers, and draftsmen who were not always conversant with naval architecture and marine engineering, those inaccuracies are understandable and not "controversial." Nobody disputes them.
 
Chapelle's writing style may seem pedantic, "harshly judgmental, and/or "arrogant," to today's reader, but at the risk of being accused of the same (as has happened before ) Chapelle's prose style was entirely appropriate in its time. It is only fairly recently that an ethic of "political correctness" has our diluted our academic literary style, resulting in what one might call the "Little League Syndrome" where "everybody wins a prize," and God help anybody who's heard to say that the losing team lost because they played poorly! What today's readers would consider arrogance in dismissing the work of a predecessor with the comment that they "were not educated" was taken as an authoritative assessment by Chapelle at the time of its writing. Chapelle wasn't alone in his forthrightness and candor. Most commentators of the time were similarly unrestrained in their criticism when they found cause to express it. L.F. Herreshoff was famous for his curmudgeonly, and often quire humorous, prose on the subject of yachts and yachting. In Chapelle's day, the uneducated would never have disputed the pronouncements of the educated, affording them the respect due their degrees, but not so today when "everybody has a right to their own opinion" and the internet provides a platform for hucksters and snake oil salesmen to peddle their wares to the gullible and most feel socially constrained to stand mute when confronted with stupidity.
 
You can get a good sense of Chapelle's "straight from the shoulder" style from his articles Ship Models That Should be Built (Nautical Research Guild - Article - Ship Models that Ought to be Built (thenrg.org) and Ship Models That Should Not be Built, (Nautical Research Guild - Article - Ship Models that Should Not be Built (thenrg.org) which are available in the forum's "Articles Database" (under "More" in the top of the page menu.) Just imagine what sort of reception you'd get in this forum if you expressed Chapelle's opinion that:
 
"There are enough Flying Clouds, Constitutions, racing fishermen, and imaginary galleons God knows, and there is surely some type of boat or vessel that will interest a modeler that has not yet been modeled. But, if you are not interested in accurate models and desire to build stuff of a level of truthfulness of a Hollywood movie "Pirate Ship" or "Spanish Galleon" forget I brought the matter up."
 
 They'd scratch your eyes out for sure. 

I checked Rio Grande  and they sell a 90 degree  Hart  carbide  burr    3/32" / 2.38mm   shank.
Head size ranges from 0.9mm to 2.3mm.
The mfg is a German company  Busch.   They must have vendors on the right side of the Atlantic as well as the left side.
On your side -perhaps in a metric friendly shank.
 

I checked Rio Grande  and they sell a 90 degree  Hart  carbide  burr    3/32" / 2.38mm   shank.
Head size ranges from 0.9mm to 2.3mm.
The mfg is a German company  Busch.   They must have vendors on the right side of the Atlantic as well as the left side.
On your side -perhaps in a metric friendly shank.
 

With that many  hoses there is a possibility of your work bench resembling the apartment ceiling in Terry Gilliam's Brazil. 
If you have not already done it, an in-line cyclone trap.   It weighs less and is easier to move, so one long hose between it and the vac.  The vac can stay in one place.  If you are fortunate, that place is a separate room or outside.  A radio remote router on-off box (not economy version) saves a lot of hassle.

Siggi,
 
As I viewed your table saw setup for the short pieces,  I am wondering if your have or have considered making a sliding crosscut table?  It helps with multiple replicate cuts on stock that is ~ 3/4 as long as the saw table is front to back if your table is the same XY as the table top.  It also makes it easier to keep your fingers an addition step away from the blade.

Siggi,
 
As I viewed your table saw setup for the short pieces,  I am wondering if your have or have considered making a sliding crosscut table?  It helps with multiple replicate cuts on stock that is ~ 3/4 as long as the saw table is front to back if your table is the same XY as the table top.  It also makes it easier to keep your fingers an addition step away from the blade.

Siggi,
 
As I viewed your table saw setup for the short pieces,  I am wondering if your have or have considered making a sliding crosscut table?  It helps with multiple replicate cuts on stock that is ~ 3/4 as long as the saw table is front to back if your table is the same XY as the table top.  It also makes it easier to keep your fingers an addition step away from the blade.

I read somewhere that the captain had to pay for the paint.  I can really see me paying for actual gold in the paint that I bought, were I a ship's captain.  A royal yacht might be a different situation, if the king paid.

It seems that prototype practices varied over time and region (as always). However, if anything was gilded than it may have been only certain details or elements, to provide highlights on otherwise decorations painted in ochre.
 
Conversely, contemporary models often show a more liberal use of gold, being decorative objects already in their time. 
 
I gather, the question is, do you want to show the ship as she appeared in real life or do you want to create a decorative object ?

I read somewhere that the captain had to pay for the paint.  I can really see me paying for actual gold in the paint that I bought, were I a ship's captain.  A royal yacht might be a different situation, if the king paid.

I read somewhere that the captain had to pay for the paint.  I can really see me paying for actual gold in the paint that I bought, were I a ship's captain.  A royal yacht might be a different situation, if the king paid.

I am trying to discern from your text just what your conditions are.  The best that I can come up with is that you are using line supplied by Syren and are trying to change the color.  If this is the situation, the line that you are attempting to color is  poly/cotton blend threads  which is the Syren starting material.  The poly component is a synthetic polymer and not affected within its body by a dye - - there is nowhere for dye particles to penetrate.  So the cotton takes it up and the poly does not.  Some of your change is likely dye particles sloughing off of the plastic.  Almost all dyes tend to use color fast material.
Plastic can be painted.  Dyes are for natural plant based - cellulose - linen and cotton.  
 
An experiment that I intend to do is using Liberon Van Dyck Walnut husk dye crystals.  Saturated solution for standing and very dilute for running. 
I have been hording linen yarn for a while. A major regret is that I did not buy a case of each size Cutty Hunk linen fishing line before the survivors of the owner transferred his remaining stock to a dumpster.

If you are only going to use it for spars and are not content to use the hand tool - square to octagon etc. method,  all that is needed is a motor to turn the stock.  If working the stock directly without a tool post or tool rest, a 1/2" drill will turn the stock.
Just build a jig to hold the drill on its back.  Another jig to hold an upright stick with a ball bearing race can support the distant end.
Unlike the sort of small lathe that you are evaluating, which will have a way that is shorter than most masts, a drill jig can have any length of one piece way up to 8 feet.  Ball bearing races come in a wide variety of ID  and shims can make up the difference.

I am trying to discern from your text just what your conditions are.  The best that I can come up with is that you are using line supplied by Syren and are trying to change the color.  If this is the situation, the line that you are attempting to color is  poly/cotton blend threads  which is the Syren starting material.  The poly component is a synthetic polymer and not affected within its body by a dye - - there is nowhere for dye particles to penetrate.  So the cotton takes it up and the poly does not.  Some of your change is likely dye particles sloughing off of the plastic.  Almost all dyes tend to use color fast material.
Plastic can be painted.  Dyes are for natural plant based - cellulose - linen and cotton.  
 
An experiment that I intend to do is using Liberon Van Dyck Walnut husk dye crystals.  Saturated solution for standing and very dilute for running. 
I have been hording linen yarn for a while. A major regret is that I did not buy a case of each size Cutty Hunk linen fishing line before the survivors of the owner transferred his remaining stock to a dumpster.

I am trying to discern from your text just what your conditions are.  The best that I can come up with is that you are using line supplied by Syren and are trying to change the color.  If this is the situation, the line that you are attempting to color is  poly/cotton blend threads  which is the Syren starting material.  The poly component is a synthetic polymer and not affected within its body by a dye - - there is nowhere for dye particles to penetrate.  So the cotton takes it up and the poly does not.  Some of your change is likely dye particles sloughing off of the plastic.  Almost all dyes tend to use color fast material.
Plastic can be painted.  Dyes are for natural plant based - cellulose - linen and cotton.  
 
An experiment that I intend to do is using Liberon Van Dyck Walnut husk dye crystals.  Saturated solution for standing and very dilute for running. 
I have been hording linen yarn for a while. A major regret is that I did not buy a case of each size Cutty Hunk linen fishing line before the survivors of the owner transferred his remaining stock to a dumpster.