Stockholm tar
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Robert, I don't see anything wrong in the drawing. As far as I can see, the breech rope is naturally kinked, due to the gun's being in the 'run out' position. If you mean the way the rope is passed through the side ring, I can't see that as a problem either, as the ring is free to move with the rope on the recoil.
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Ok Nigel, thanks. I found the link, courtesy of Pete. Thanks also for the other link, the one that worked. Fantastic pictures! Are the Russians thinking of making this an Olympic sport?
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Jan, I think that's a little too much, indicating your rudder is too far from the post. My rudder is only about 1mm. I believe the idea was that the cut-outs in the rudder fitted over the gudgeons on the rudder post, so there was a close fit. In practice, any large gap would probably have hindered the smooth flow of water past the hull and over the rudder. Btw, the bottom of the rudder should be level with the keel.
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Nigel, Unfortunately, all I could find was a woman named Mariann – and a site building lego models.
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Nigel, That sounds very interesting, I'll take a look.
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Hi Jan, Regarding the holes in the rail, they are as Tony says, but Gregor has a good point. I put all the posts and timber heads in, but just opted to leave off one of the swivels aft. Take your time and think of all the options and what you might do later. My main rail was just fixed with glue. I don't think you need nails, as it is quite strong, but of course you can add these later if you wish. However, you'd have to be very careful that the tips don't come through the bulwarks, either inboard or outside. A bit tricky in my opinion, and they'd have to be quite short so they don't 'wander'. I also found it a bit tricky to put on the main rails – in one long piece. A good tip here, and one that several people including myself have followed, is to glue them on in sections with a short scarf joint between them. I had initial problems in placing the whole length with any precision, especially around the bow, and whilst I was concentrating on this area the other was liberally spreading glue all over the after end of the bulwark! I then thought of cutting the rail into three, bow, centre, and aft sections, and I found that I could then concentrate on just that part. Of course you'd have to make sure all three lined up, but I didn't find that much of a problem. As I said I found the bow the most difficult to glue, and it's probably best to do that section first – that's if you want to do it that way! Hope this helps. Nice work on the rudder by the way.
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Jan, No problem, only to glad to help. Your guns now look much better, I think you agree!
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Jimmy, I would actually suggest you put both of those models on hold, as they are not really suitable for the novice modelmaker – and make a simpler kit first. Sorry if that is not what you want to hear, but I'm sure that's the way to go. There are too many people who have been lured by the sight of all that rigging and the guns, started on the model, and then found it was outside of their capabilities. The model was then either binned, or was stuck on a shelf to gather dust. The modeller often then became disillusioned and gave up the hobby. A simple kit has the advantage in that you can make a lot of the early mistakes on it, solve them (with the help of MSW of course!) and actually see it finished within a reasonable timeframe. When you've done that, perhaps you then think about San Martin or the Victory. You might like to start with looking at the Ship Kit Database, which gives information on the kits available. You'll find it at the bottom of the list, on the right hand side of the start page. Regarding the guns and their carriages on the real ships, the vessels were usually launched before these were put in. Normally they were usually lowered down through the hatches in the decks using tackles from the lower yards (the spars across the masts), or were sometimes manouvered through the gunports using blocks and tackles – and a lot of manpower.
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Jan, Your deck looks great, well done! I'm not too sure about the curve to the companion roof, although that might just be me. I'd also agree with Michael, there seems to be something out with the cannon. Is it one of the guns from the kit, or another one? Either way, the barrel looks to be depressed, indicating that the top of the gunport might be too low, and therefore that the gunport strips are as well. If this is so dont worry overmuch, as many of us have come across this problem – but managed to rectify it. (In my case the port strip was slightly too low at the aft end, but I corrected it as much as I could, by drastically modifying the gun! Even now however, the two aftermost guns brush the top of their ports, which of course they shouldn't really do.) In another log, comparison with the plans of the original Sherbourne show that the top of the ports actually extended up to the rail. Therefore if you wanted to, I think you could file a little more from above the ports, enabling the guns to fit properly with the barrels level. If you wanted to do that, it would probably be best to do it now at this early stage and with the deck in place, trying the levelled gun at each port.
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Eamonn, Agreed. Very good job on your first planking, and a good basis for the outer layer. As the pictures show, I can see the signs of one very good model here. They also remind one that the 'timber head removal time' draws ever closer!
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Timmo, Perhaps you might try both options, two and three, but in moderation: As Mick says, the drawings show there is more of a curve to the knees and rail – but I think you'd have to keep a check on the alignment, so that it doesn't affect the general sweep of the rail, perhaps adjusting it if necessary. As you say, removing the aftermost of the timber heads, which I think you can see the base of in your photograph, doesn't seem to matter that much. I think though, having removed it, I'd only move the cathead forward just as much as is needed, to give clearance for the gunport door, and allowing it to fully open. This of course would be in conjunction with the option above. I note in the photograph in the instruction book, that the after door is fouled by the cat-tackle fall. I imagine moving the cathead will affect that, either more of less, and is something you might have to live with. Btw, I'd avoid the hairy cat-tackle, if you can!
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Eamonn, Very good work – and it doesn't look as though you've made even a dent in the filler stores. Btw, I believe that 'rubberyness' has Chinese origins!
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Jeremy, I'm not sure I can offer advice, but I think it would help if you posted pictures of the problem.
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Eddie, That's usually the way it goes!
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Eddie, As Wayne indicated, although Petersson's book is good I'm not sure it should be relied on it completely, without referring to other reputable sources. The very drawing Modeller has illustrated, shows the mizzen topsail and topgallant braces leading via the gaff, down to a belaying pin on each quarter. Most of the other sources I have read, indicate that the mizzen braces led forward to the main mast, often crossing to the opposite side of the ship to obtain better leverage. Petersson might be sure of the way Melampus was rigged, but one can't take it that others ships were rigged the same way. And if you're unsure about that... Therefore, it's probably best to consult other reliable sources as well, such as Lees, etc.
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Hi Mike, Just catching up with your log again, and looks generally good overall. There are however a couple of points I would make. As you know at that date the clewlines furled the sail towards the centre of the yard, the upper blocks being secured at that point. This inevitably resulted in the bulk of the sail ending up in the middle of the yard. Later in the nineteenth century the blocks were moved to the yardarms, resulting in the 'slimmer' furled look, with the sail stretched out along the whole yard. Your sails look good, but I think I might have made them slightly bulkier. Moot point though. My other point concerns your coils. My apologies for pointing it out, but rope coils on ships were not really done in that fashion. You have to think of the seaman doing the job, or yourself coiling the rope in your hands. One hand makes the coil and then passes it to the 'passive' hand, where it is held against the previously made coils. When the whole line is coiled in suitably sized coils, they are then offered up to the pin at the rail. The line coming off of the top of the pin is then passed through the coils, brought back over the top of them and the top of the pin. There shouldn't be any turns halfway down the coil, they should hang open – a seaman wouldn't thank anybody for making his life more difficult! On the model of course you normally make the coils separately. Hope you don't mind me pointing this out.
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Eamonn, Looking good. I'm sure you'll be making sure everything is all ready for that second planking! As to the glue, you can always go for my suggestion...
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Gregor, Very nice, and you've done a great job with the lettering and stern. Ah, yes, the Great Pinrail Crisis of 13/14 – I remember it well! Don't look too closely at my log though, as I'm far from sure myself – and partly making it up as I go along. The only thing I can say is, that if you're thinking of extending the rail, I urge you to do it now – before installing the mast and rigging! Eamonn, You're Sherbourne's on your shelf, gathering dust!? Well, ok, you do have the Ballahoo to work on. I look forward to when you start on her though.
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Timmo. Thanks for the kind words about my Sherbourne. I think the gaff sail was the easy one! Yes, I thought you'd be working on the headrails next. Remaking them is probably the best way to go, so I look forward to your progress. Btw, how do you find the AOTS book on Granado? I gather it's reasonably good. Kind regards,
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Eamonn, Re. the wood glue, have you considered Cornwall Model Boats? They stock quite a range of suitable glues, and I wouldn't think postage to you is that expensive.
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Eamonn, Ollie makes a good point about putting glue on the edge of the planks, as well as the bulkheads. Basically anywhere they are likely to touch. I think you'll find the glue I mentioned, with it's superior 'grabbing' qualities, a much better option. I hope you manage to find it. Btw, I dont think that periodically looking at your model, either at her lines or your latest work, is a qualification for the local loony bin! I find myself doing that frequently!
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Timmo, I have been avidly following your log, since I am seriously considering the Grenado for a future build. I agree with the other comments here, that you're making a fantastic job of her. I am also of your opinion that the decoration, as shown by the photographs on the Jotika website, is much too bright and gaudy. I like the changes you made to the transfers too, much better. Overall you have certainly given her a contemporary 18th century appearance. The curve of the headrails, as given in the kit, didn't look quite right to me – and even looked a tad ugly. What was your impression? Also were they painted blue? I'm looking forward to what you do next.
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Tony, Yes, have a good and safe trip. You'll have to tell us all about it when you get back.
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Eamonn, It's an Aliphatic resin, comes in a 112m plastic bottle with a nozzle. In the link, its the one on the left: http://www.deluxematerials.co.uk/pages/emulsionglues.htm I'm happy with it. This is an English site, but I'm sure you can find it, or something similar in Ireland.
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Eamonn, Yes, I get you re. the pins. Good thinking. About the nails, no, I've never used them. As I mentioned, if you bend the planks sufficiently, have good glue, and bow blocks, they shouldn't be necessary. It probably helps if the glue also has good 'grab' properties, if you see what I mean. Glue specifically for modelling, the yellowish stuff, usually has that. Re. the bending, If you overbend the plank slightly more than you need, this will also help to keep them against the bow blocks. If you do all that, I wouldn't worry over much. Try it with the first plank and see how you get on. Do have a careful go with the Dremel, I think it'll make it a whole lot easier. I haven't yet checked out DD's recommendation, but I will – and I'm pleased my commission is secure! I'll also check out The Plank again – that's the film version.
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