chris watton

That looks fantastic, Derek! I got the idea of using a clear material for the stand when looking through the AOTS book of Alert. There's a picture showing a contemporary model on a clear stand and I thought that would be cool if I could do the same, as I don't think any other mainstream kits do this. They are also a lot less intrusive, as the whole hull can still be seen. The MDF cradle is a throwaway item, to be discarded once the model is complete. Another little note on why stands/cradles are so important to be included (in my opinion), is that they give the model the correct stance/angle for marking the waterline. Out of the 9 kits I have thus far developed (including the two I am doing now), only one, the Sphinx has the waterline more or less parallel to the keel. The other 8 do not. Each cradle needs to be designed with each unique angle in mind - off the shelf turned columns just wouldn't do.

In every kit, I include two stands, the one shown above, which is for the build only, and a much nicer acetate stand to display the finished model which, for Sphinx, has a laser engraved nameplate for each side. I know that a lot of kits do not include any stand, and if they do, they call it a 'Bonus'! I have attached a pic of the display stand for Sphinx, and next to it is the two stands for my upcoming sub £100 kit - the MDF is for the build and the acetate version with nameplates is for the final display. No matter what cost the kit, they all have the two stands.

I think three weeks. I could get plans and manual printed right now, but prefer to wait until the model is complete - but I do want the actual release to be no later than three weeks. I will show you work in progress box art, some pics and text are just placeholders, and the bar code is for Duchess... PRE-ORDER KIT HERE: https://vanguardmodels.co.uk/product/hms-sphinx-1775/ PRE-ORDER PEAR BLOCK SET HERE: https://vanguardmodels.co.uk/product/hms-sphinx-pearwood-block-set/

Just to let you know, Sphinx will be available for pre-order tomorrow, well, in about 90 minutes time. I now have everything with me apart from the plans and manual, which I cannot submit to the printers until the prototype model is complete (for final shots for box art and manual).

They did, I now have everything here, all looks very good. Made some changes to PE sheets, a few alterations and also adding part numbers to each part on the sheet. All look very fine.

Your Speedy looks amazing, Derek, very well done!

Started designs on a companion to the Brixham Mumble Bee Nisha, a larger relative from Plymouth, which was later converted into a yacht - great lines, so fine. Not sure if I shall develop these two together, like Fifie and Zulu, as these are a little more complex (larger one has 16 bulkheads, and only around 350mm long) but am hoping to have the smaller Nisha out first. I have drawn fittings specific to each, like winch drums and the distinctive tow posts. These will have 1x4mm limewood first planking, and 0.8x3mm pear for second planking.

I would say between 400-800 hours. I do mention at the start of the manual the amount of parts, and not to be put off by this, it's just that the parts you usually have to make up yourself from stock timber are already pre cut. In some cases, a little bevelling or rounding off of the edges is required to finish the parts, but that's it. You have multiple sizes of yard cleats and mast and sling cleats (items you usually make up from wood strip), even the mast head battens are pre cut, as are the mast fids. So, a lot of parts and a lot of laser cut wood sheets, but this does not or should not translate into meaning more complicated than any standard kit. Quite the contrary, I am hoping... I did tell Jim that I do not mind how big the manual is or how many photos we use, the more info for the modeller the better, I believe. And what a job Jim is doing, he really is doing the kit justice.

I have been told that the photo etched sheets will be ready to pick up from Italy at the end of next week, so will receive the week after. If these are all good, I will think about changing the Sphinx to pre-order, as all will be with me. I even have the boxes, double walled, so very strong, and have just ordered the shipping sleeves. Manual is up to date, almost complete, but has a lot more pages than I initially thought, with close on 1000 pictures..

Just realised I never got back to you DelF. The reason for the difference in description for the new lanterns is because we wanted to differentiate between actual resin castings and and 3-d printed parts, which is a completely different resin anyway. I have just completed all laser cutting for Sphinx. I can now tell you that the laser time for each kit is six and a half hours. There are 33 separate laser cut sheets in 8 different thicknesses from 0.5-4mm One of the reasons I really need a second machine...

Will have to check that. The lanterns are 3-D printed in the same hard resin as the Sphinx boat beam brackets. I am assuming it is a resin of some sort.

I now have 2 sizes of new lanterns in stock. They are not cheap, but are very detailed and 3-D printed in very hard resin. I have them in 12 and 15mm sizes, the 15mm is the same that is used for Sphinx (ordered extra for fittings stock). They come in two parts for the main body and top canopy, brass rod and pre cut glazing. Lanterns – High Detail (sold individually) – VANGUARD MODELS

I do like these lanterns, it wasn't until James took some real close ups that I realised the detail was there, door hinges, handle, and open vents around the upper canopy cylinder..

I think it is very important to make the kits as easy as they can be. It really doesn't matter what experience some have, or have not got. It is a kit, so it should include as many pre-made parts as possible to give everyone a fighting chance. There is always much room for improvement, depending on each modellers experience and preferences, and those that can, will still make their own stamp of the kits. At the same time, I am hoping that those who perhaps may have been a little scared off by other kits in the past will feel confident enough to tackle such subjects. For most, the kit is complete, but for a few, it is a blank canvas and only the start of what they plan to do to it. For example, you don't have to use the pre cut and etched lower side parts, as I will include enough pear strip to plank from bottom edge of the blue painted sides down, the choice is yours. Regarding the plastics, or resin, which is what I use, after having to use white metal for the best part of two decades, I would choose the resin every time - easier to use, bend, file, better definition and next to zero shrinkage - with zero shrinkage for 3-d printed parts like the cannon barrels, figurehead, boat beam brackets and lanterns. If the material suits the end result, I will use it. But never again white metal...

Meant to say, I will have these lanterns on my website soon, for individual fittings, I have 12 and 15mm sizes for this new design.

Actually, this little lady is Nisha, a Brixham 'Mumble-bee'! When I saw her sexy little lines in the Edgar J Marsh book, I couldn't resist... First off deck bereft of fittings location holes, as I am currently designing them. At least, until I can carry on with Sphinx..

I had a delivery today from one of my suppliers. This included more machined pearwood blocks, so these are again available as an option for Alert, Speedy, Flirt and Duchess. As well as lanterns, I also had new cannon barrels arrive. I did read in a few threads on the forum that more than a few are disappointed with standard kit barrels, as they never seem to be the correct size, made worse by mating them with equally inappropriate carriages. Someone mentioned that all kits have problems in this area. I don't think this is strictly true. Here are some pics (still got packaging fibres on them, sorry..) of the three sizes of barrel I had made for a future development - a 24 Pounder Armstrong long barrels, 12 Pounder Blomefield pattern long chase barrel (only 2 per kit), and a 42-Pounder carronade and fittings (the kit they are for has 18 of those bad boys)! These are all exact scale and correct for the model they are intended for. And finally, while I wait for the USB stick from Jim, which contain the Sphinx pics for the manual, I just started a new little kit. The pics show the very first time the parts for the hull were assembled (yesterday), and probably do not 100% reflect the final designs. I just needed to check all major structural parts - it will be quite a cute little thing...

Just received my order of 3-D printed lanterns for Sphinx, which I had specially made for the kit. I shall send a set or two off to Jim, to add to the model...

Do not be afraid to use the nails supplied. I found them to be the only size that works well with the laser cut MDF, and I pay a premium for them, as I know they are the best for the job.

Only once I have cut all parts and have everything except plans and manual (as these are done locally). If there were any problems with the PE or anything else after taking people's money, I would be devastated if I had to delay the release. Hence waiting until alI is with me and have checked everything over.

prozac!

Very nice work from James! He now has all 23 sheets of completed 50x70cm plans , and I will start on manual as soon as I receive the pics. Still awaiting my lantern shipment, which I should receive in the next week, I hope. Production laser cutting already well underway with laser machine running 12 hours per day minimum - but this will still take a while. Initial production run will be for 40 kits.

Development for this particular kit has certainly been very intensive. Jim's model is actually the third prototype, the first two were mine, one a basic hull assembly, to iron out potential larger issues, the second to sieve through smaller issues, which leads to the production parts, which still need a further 'sieve' to help 'fine tune' the designs. Many, many parts have been tweaked over the past few weeks, and all for the better. Tangible models need to be made, I know that when I design them in CAD, when I assemble in 3-D, all looks perfect. However, for wooden model kits, they never work out exactly how they look on the PC screen, too many issues can be very easily overlooked if the time wasn't put into assembling progressively better prototype models from the designed parts. At least, this is how I work, knowing the pitfalls of designing these things, and having to take into account all of the slight differences from one model and modeller to another. I know that most kits in the past (talking European kits, as these are the only ones I have experience with) leave the onus on the purchaser to sort problems out due to shortcomings. I wanted to address this by making a kit so complete (although you still need to pay attention and take your time), that the onus is on me, not you - most who are fairly competent at model building should really have any issues building this, but it's still not a quick build, due to the sheer amount of parts. But at least they are parts you won't have to make from scratch, some just require a little finishing.. Mad kit....

I can confirm I will not be adding a sail set option, as the cost would be too high for the very small percentage who would want them. I spent an extra month working on drawing sail plans for the Amati Vanguard, yet to this day, I haven't seen one Vanguard model with sails! Come to think of it, I have only seem one Alert kit with sails added... And on a personal note, I do not like them on the larger models anyway, they never look right, especially in 64th scale - unless a real artist has a go... Same goes for cannon rigging, but these are strictly personal preferences on my part.

Yes. Sphinx will be £649. It has well over double the amount of materials than Duchess, plus more expensive made to order thicknesses for pear sheet and planking (0.6 and 0.8mm) I am still to complete the laser cutting of all parts, but I wouldn't be surprised if one kit takes the best part a day to cut - but won't know until I tally up the times for everything...