oakheart
-
Posts
499 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by oakheart
-
using my iphone I get an A# not sure how accurate it is see you tube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iNnseubrRMM Tim -
I second that it has to sound right, if I was musical I would give a note to aim for :-), it has to to be a 'ting' not a 'thunk' Also make sure the blade square to the table in all directions. Blade thickness can have an effect too, a thin blade will wander more that a thicker blade. On mine with a very narrow jewellers piercing saw blade I can cut along a printed line and get an accurate shape. with thicker blades cut as close as you feel comfortable with and sand back to the line. You probably know this, don't force the material through let the blade do the work. I have found that as the blade gets blunt it will wander more. When cutting acrylic, put Sellotape along the cut line, it acts as a lubricant. Tim
-
Thanks Johann
-
Thanks to both @SaltyScot and @Thukydides for the compliments and all of the likes. Still more deck fittings and anchors to do before I get started on the rigging, oh and the cannons. Tim
-
work for this year has started. I had to move the pumps back towards the stern and jack the ships boat up a bit to make it clear the skylight but I think it looks okay. Tim
-
I managed a couple of hours model making between eating, drinking and making merry. Got the pumps made. Not sure if they need iron lids or not. Hope every one has a great year in 2025 Tim
-
It's also available in square and rectangular strips. I have some 0.5mm square by Plastruct, made in USA Tim
-
Thanks for the compliment Hakan @Wintergreen I just checked and mine are X3, that could be part of my problem... I will see if I can get other lenses for this model. Tim
-
I do have an Optivisor style head mounted magnifier, which I find can help to see things more clearly, but I do find it difficult to get the hand / eye co-ordinated when magnified, again I probably need to practice Tim
-
I will watch out for that, thanks for the compliments. Tim
-
The serving of the blocks is getting better, latest at top 🙂 I spent the morning making a rough serving machine from scrap / parts found in the workshop. It really does help. As usual there are loads of examples on machine right on this forum. this rabbit hole just keeps getting deeper .................. Tim
-
Just go with the one without rails and include a strip of styrene or wood for us to add, it is a kit after all, we need to have some work to do 🙂 Tim
-
Thanks for the compliment @archjofo, you have perfect timing thanks for the link, just what I needed. Tim
-
Still a bit lumpy but better, as they say practice makes perfect.... we shall see. Tim
-
looking closer at the Science Museum Cutter model, the rope does not appear to be seized around the block and the length that is seized is much longer than what I have been trying to do, it looks very much like your example @Thukydides I think I will try and emulate this style on Speedy, I still have to go and find out how to do the fake splice. Tim
-
Thanks @Thukydides I need all the help I can get. Your example helps a lot. Thanks for the compliment too. I will go and take a look at your alert log. tim
-
Here is yet more practice at stropping the blocks. This is a 5 and 4mm block with 0.5mm rope. My seizing is getting a little better, still a long way to go. Hope I am using all the correct terms here? Tim
-
Hi Paul I made it over here and caught up on reading through the log. Thanks for a brilliant build and log, it's an inspiration for me to finish my cutter speedy. Although "Speedy" is a different cutter they share a lot of similarities. I shall certainly be using a few of the techniques you used on this build. Tim
- 112 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- Cheerful
- Syren Ship Model Company
- (and 1 more)
-
Mixed a better colour for the blocks, very happy now. Tim
-
Thanks Paul, I will go and take a look at what he listed. The compliment is most welcome , thank you. Tim
-
Blocks: wood, card or 3D resin?
oakheart replied to georgeband's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Hi Tony I had to file a shallow groove top and bottom on my 5mm single blocks to make it work well after much searching I am going to use these on my "Speedy" Tim
-
Blocks: wood, card or 3D resin?
oakheart replied to georgeband's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I would have to second that, I too have just received some Seahorse 5mm single blocks from Modelnet and they are really very good. I have painted mine to look more like boxwood. Thanks for the recommendation George. Don't you just love this place, where else could you find all of the information we have access to. Tim -
Hi Paul, Love your Cheerful build, many ideas there that will help me with speedy. What sizes of blocks did you use? On these blocks no shaping was required at all. I did add a slight groove with a triangle file across the top and bottom for the seized rope that runs across the face, then just gave them a lick of paint. Now I need to practice my seizing, that in the photo above makes me think I have a lot to learn. I have been lent a "whip finishing tool" by a fly tying mate, so off to YouTube to find out how to use it. Tim
-
I got some Seahorse 3D printed blocks from ModelNet on eBay in the post today . see https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165760407676 I am really pleased, they are very good. Did not like the dark brown they are printed, so painted it to be more like boxwood, not quite the right colour yet, but not bad. They could maybe do with a quick sand down as well. But from a normal viewing distance you may not see the print lines it looks worse from some angles here are a couple very close up, warts and all. I have to remember that nobody would ever see this kind of detail when viewing the model. Tim
-
This is like one those spot the difference games, the brass items on the lid of the companion way have also moved.......... The photos have got to be from different sessions / times Tim
Our Emblem ®
