The Sailor

Thank you very much for all your nice comments and hitting the „Like“ Button.
 
Hi henryjames, I‘m looking forward to seeing your build log.

Hi Row, first of all you are a lucky man been aboard of Endeavour. Well, it‘s an odd hull form and - believe me - not everything looks perfect. But overall I‘m happy with the result and in doubt I can paint the whole hull.

Hi klimi, I‘m building her as the Endeavour of 1934.

Erik, the part straight above the rudder was indeed tricky to plank. As you can see on the photo, this part is moulded using wood filler.
 

 


Fortunately the vaneer stripes are very easy to bend.
 

 



Finally the last two photos:
 
The planked stern...
 



 and the evidence...
 


...that the slot is still open!

Progress has been made on the upper deck, though not without a careless mistake. I decided the best way to fit the boatdeck beams was to glue them in position  before putting on the plywood deck. Doing so enables a firm attachment of the beams to the side of the hull. In each case, both ends of the beams needed to be trimmed off by about 0.5mm for a snug fit. I meticulously measured the gaps between each beam, and then for the second beam towards the stern, put the front of the beam on the mark instead of the back. The result is that the beam is 5mm out - which then threw the next one out too.  Fortunately I was working from both ends, so the front two beams are fine. I discovered once I realised my mistake, that my gluing was all too effective.  I then laid the boats on the beams to see how obvious the blunder looks,   Fortunately, once the boats are on, the beams can hardly be seen.  I guess the boat cradles will need some work to accommodate the problem, but correcting the position of the two beams would cause significant damage, for not much gain.
 
These are the first of the beams - accurately installed.
 

 
These are the whole lot - with blunder.  The result is the gap over the capstan is 5mm too big.
 

 
The second beam on the left is the culprit (I am now absolving myself from blame) , throwing it, and the next beam out by 5mm.
 

 

 
Here are the ships' boats laid on the support beams obscuring (I hope) the mistake..

 

 

 

 

Well, I've finished the second planking
 

 
Cut out the bulkhead stubs...
 

 
Planked the false deck...
 

 
And then broken with the order of the instructions, because I wanted at least one coat of paint on before I started the coppering... I figured it might help me to end up with a neat line at the waterline... as it turns out, it just makes marking the waterline on a nightmare (pencil won't work on black paint!)... and all I had was a huge silver marker... anyway... it's done now. Waterline marked, and coppering complete:
 

 
I'm really quite pleased with it... the planking isn't completely smooth, but I like the way it allows you to see the planking underneath. 
 

I been able to get a few more steps done.  
 
Catheads.  Weird the instructions only had a single layer for the catheads.  Every picture and the plans had these double thick so I had to freehand cut out 2 more then drill the sheave holes in them.  They seem to have come out fairly well.
 

 
Caprails to cover the frame ends.
 

 

 
Railing supports.  These were pretty hard to fit as the pre-drilled/milled holes they fit into in the cap rail were way too small. I didn't notice this until the cap rails were already installed.  This made opening them up very difficult.  After a bunch of micro scalpel work they sit in pretty well.
 

 
Railings.  These were 2 layers.  The first layer had holes in it to attach to the posts.  A top finish layer was then glued on top of it to make a smooth run down the rail.
 

 
Here is the state of the build with a few pieces of deck furniture dry fitted on.
 

Hi Again Folks... It's Photo Time Again.
 
The wee doghouse is almost finished, just a little tidying up to be done, oh and attach the doors of course (not forgetting the various handles too)
The rope hand rail ring (where it attaches to the sides of the doghouse will be painted black.. they were painted black to begin with but it seems to have rubbed off in the fitting process !!
The steps are glued in place but no other deck fitting is permanently in place as yet (I threw in a close up photo of the 'L' shaped Anchor Rope reinforcing brackets on the forward hatch coaming)
 
By The Way I had one of those slow motion 'NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO' moments earlier as I was gluing the roof arrangement onto the Doghouse.. Clamps were being used to secure the whole affair when suddenly a clamp slipped causing the near total collapse of the doghouse.. there were doghouse sides, sliding roofs, rope hand rails & coamings flying through the air just like Cirque du Soleil !! How I kept my cool I'll never know ^_^ I just calmly reassembled the whole thing.. very Zen moment
 
Stay Well Folks
 
Eamonn a.k.a. Mr. Keep Calm & Carry On..

I thought it was about time I blew the dust off this log  
Work has been 'hopping' about a little on the hull.I have been concentrating on sorting the exposed areas of framing.Because of the line of the main deck,various knees,beams and a black ebony waterway would appear in this window between the frames.Although this would be historically correct,I decided it would add a 'ramshackle' appearance to the build and looked for an answer.I decided that an intermediate layer of thin Pear planking from the deck clamp upwards would alleviate the untidy appearance.The basis of this layer has been added on the portside but will be completed when the deck clamp has been installed.On the starboard side are temporary ABS plastic strips tack glued with CA.These guide the fitting of the pear cappings between the open frames.These ensure a nice flow along the top and bottom of the cutout to match the edges of the upper wales.When overlong caps have been fitted and the aliphatic glue has dried,these strips are removed and the cappings sanded flush inside and out.The Aliphatic wood glue does not stick to the plastic.
The three rectangular holes in the hull are to receive the deck beams.There are many more to cut,I have just done these as they were so close to the cappings and also provide a reference point as these three beams delineate the hatchway opening and capstan.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I have finally mounted the guns.  It's something I have been putting off.  Putting them on is the last thing to do before putting the 'lid' on the deck and I keep thinking I may have foregotten something - aside from where I put my car keys and glasses.
 
I decided not to put the full rigging on them.  To do so would require drilling two holes in the carriages to provide for eyelets and I don't have the type of drill that would do the job properly. As well, only the guns that could be seen were (partially) rigged.  My committment to authenticity goes only so far.
 
I am happy enough with the way it has worked out, though I am not enraptured with my rope coils.  The thread provided went every way but the way I wanted it to go.  The gun rigging, while fiddly, proved easier than I thought. Two pairs of longish, fine-pointed tweezers were indispensible. I am now looking for alternative sources of rigging cord that may behave more pliably.  Suggestions are very welcome.
 
To achieve reasonable uniformity of the heights of the gun barrels in the ports, I adjusted the heights of the guns towards the bow and the stern by grinding down the front wheels at the three stern ports, and the back wheels at the three bow ports.  It is at the bow the difference in the heights of the gunports from the deck is greatest, and here I also glued a small piece of copper strip below the front wheels - two under the guns at the very front port.  These can't be seen.

 
Here is the gundeck.

 

 
 
 

 

Hamilton, Mike - thanks for the comments, and also to all for the likes.
 
Sjors - 'fast' is maybe relative 
 
Progressing with the rigging and have started tying off on cleats and pinrails.  Delicate procedure that did result in one of the bulkhead cleats coming loose - mustn't have glued it well enough.  It was a real swine to get back in straight with all the rigging, pin rails and carronades in place.
 
Question:  I'm tying off using the standard figure of 8 around the pin and using a dab of GS-Hypo glue to make doubly sure its secured, do people typically just trim this line off at the pin?  I was planning to simulate rope coils and thinking I can just make all these when everything is done and droop over each pin hiding any loose end.  
 

So I finally got a bit of time and was able to get the forecastle stuff done.  I need to do a wipe on poly session and blacken the cannons/stack.
 
 

Thanks for all the likes, everyone! It's a nice feeling to have more likes than posts Anyway, work continues.
 

 
As per other build logs, I installed some nails into the keel to keep it stable because a great heavy mass of metal decorations will be cantilevered off the beakhead.
 

 
The keel is also attached to the false keel by means of wooden dowels. Even with no glue, the whole shebang is rock solid!
 

 
Planking has now proceeded to below the level of the wales, and up to the second deck. Not shown are the blocks to support the dummy guns. These things are virtually impossible to photograph, because they are painted black against the entire lower deck, which has also been painted black. This is a good thing, because I don't want to see the dummy blocks. It IS a bit difficult trying to locate the holes for installation of the dummy guns when everything is black though.
 
BTW, the second deck fit perfectly a few weeks ago when I was fettling it. Now, with all the planks in place, somehow the deck won't fit! After quite a bit of cursing and a lot of anxiety (did I somehow distort the shape of the ship when I planked it?) ... it all measures correctly. Phew.
 
As you can see, the second deck is also painted black. The rear section has been covered with foil for lighting.
 

 
I was not sure how to route power into the ship. You can see a little excavation which I dug out on the false keel because I was planning to put a connector there. Then I hit upon a simple idea - why not simply electrify the support rods that I was planning to install anyway? I soldered the wire unto a nut and installed it.
 

 
We have no lights ...
 

 
AND NOW WE HAVE LIGHTS! EUREKA!! The idea worked!!!
 
As you can see, the LED's are SMD's (surface mount diodes) which are absolutely tiny. I glued them to a block of wood and then angled them outwards slightly. Yes, I know that Euromodel supply metal plates in place of windows, so you will never see the LED's if you build the ship as per the kit. However, I plan to fabricate my own replacement windows. I'm not sure how i'm going to do that, given that I have never made windows as small as this before, but time will tell ... I'll think of something! I hope!
 
That's it for now. I will install the garboard planks and then work the planking upwards to close the gap.

The side gallery decorations are now complete. I thought completing the right side decorations would, having done the left, be easier. naturally my expectations were disappointed.   The large oddly shaped decoration refused to be glued. It took four attempts before the wretched thing went where it should.
 
For those who try this in the future I have a fewsuggestions that may help.  Start with a very complete vocabulary because it's likely you will use it.
 
Bend the piece the conform with the curves of the structure of the gallery as best you can.  The top and the bottom curves differ and essentially the whole piece is twisted. Glue the lower curve to the structure (I use dots of gel CA about the size of a pin head all  over the back of the piece).  Make sure it is firmly fixed at the bottom as it will be under stress.  Initially, the top curve is almost certain not to fit - there will be a gap between it and the surface of the gallery. Now that the lower curve is firmly fixed, press the top curve to conform with the curvature of the gallery.  It will bend to the right shape fairly easily, but keep applying pressure until you are sure it is firmly glued.
 
Finally here it is.

 
I have now more or less completed the bow decoration.  The joining of the two bits of the middle rail - the one that meets the bottom of  the cathead - went fairly well on the left side, not so well on the right. I had it lined up perfectly and applied pressure to complete the gluing - and the model then moved.  The decorative bit moved down about half a mill and the 'moveable' gel CA then decided not to. To redo it risked significant damage, so there you are.
 
The catheads and the bow timber heads are dry fitted in the photos.  Putting them on at this stage, sticking out as they do,  is inviting trouble.
 




 

I have finished the decoration of the side gallery on the right side of the model.  The fit of all the decorations relies on the accuracy of the underlying structure.  It turned out fairly demanding with a few heart-stopping moments.  I have photographed each step in the hope that it may help future builders.
 

 
A piece of strip needs to be attached to the very top of the gallery apparently for the sole purpose  of decoration - which seems a bit odd.  Definitely pre-bend the strip to the required curvature.
 

 

 
Two pieces of 1x1mm strip are glued to the tops of the pillars.


 
Then the rather strange curved decoration was applied.  I bent it to shape as best I could beforehand. Getting the bend  completly right off the model was well-nigh impossible so it was glued on under some stress (both the decoration and me).  Fortunately it turned out quite well.
 

 
The fit was quite close, but at the bottom of the decoration there were small gaps at either end.

 
I used wood filler to fill them.
 


 
And here are the remaining steps.
 




 
Before applying, the decoration should be bent to shape of the underlying structure and laterally to conform to the curve of the strip below it.

 
The very top decoration proved impossible to bend laterally.  As a consequence I glued it at a slight angle to give the impression of it conforming  with the lateral curvature of the decoration below it.
 

 
Except for some very minor touching up :finished. 
 

 
Now for the left side .....
 

A bit of progress on Fair Rosamund:
 
The deck - came in the same rather disappointing ply as the bulkheads - kind of fuzzy and messy, but a little more solid. Had to fix the bulkhead extension slots to fit the framework - no big deal. Marked the deck up for planking (centre line & positions for the deck planks. Here are some photos
 

 

 

 
Margin planks - not featured as part of the kit - I borrowed this feature from Meredith, who included them on his build. I may have cut mine a little wide, but they'll eventually be partly thinned by the inboard bulwark planking. I guessed at a measurement of 7mm by looking at Meredith's build log and judging the width of his margins relative to the sub-deck. I decided to make the margins in 4 sections, scarfed together.
 
I made templates using bristol paper and transferred these onto 10mm x 3/64mm lime - unfortunately I only had enough of this material for the first 2 planks port and starboard and the plank across the stern....my local wood supplier only had 1/32 or 1/16" sheets, so the last 2 planks on both sides are 1/32 - eventually I'll sand the others down to match. Here again are some photos of the process - the same process was used for each of the margin planks
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Next steps - fairing the frames & deck planking/finishing - fun times ahead!
 
hamilton

More on the windlass
 

 
more pieces
 

 

 
Before and after for the "legs"
 

 
"Legs" fitted
 

 
 
And here is a dry fit of the main deck.
 

 
Cheers

Very good start Kutay. I like small boats like this.

INDEX OF PLANS
 

 
Sheet 1: Overview of ship
 

 
Sheet 2: Masts and Yards
 

 
Sheet 3: Decorations
 
   
 
Sheets 4, 5, 6, 7: General construction details
 

 
Sheet 8: Longitudinal and Cross section (for scratch builders) 
 
 
 
Sheets 9, 10: Deck furniture
 
 
 
Sheets 11, 12: Standing rigging
 
  
 
Sheets 13, 14, 15: Running rigging
 

 
Sheet 16: Mast and yard details
 

 
Sheet 17: Ships plan

The curved railing is now installed.  It has come out quite well considering.  The fit of the curve could be slightly better and with hindsight I could have taken off another 0.5mm off each end. There is a slight gap between the balcony and the railing at each end, but can't be seen and I can live with it.
 
 
Since taking the following photos I have glazed the windows with Kristal Klear.  The KK does a really good job and is fairly easy to work with once you get the knack - highly recommended.
 

It's been a while since I put up an update... mainly because the progress is slow, but I'm trying not to rush, and get it right. For a first attempt I'm really quite pleased. Beginning to feel like a crying shame to cover all the wood up with copper and paint   
 
This is the starboard side so far...

 
I've also started the carronades as a project to get on with while the glues setting on the planking...
 

 
This is the progress as of yesterday evening...
 

 

 
There are lots more photos of progress here:
 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/150573193@N04/albums/72157680568137234
 
... but it's mainly a record of the planking, so I thought I'd spare you
 
Thanks for reading.
 
Rob

The stern railing and asociated bits is something I have been putting off.  Bending the railing to conform with the shape of the balcony was a real concern. It turned out to be not so hard.  I carved a piece of balsa to the shape of half of the balcony then bent half the railing to the shape of the balsa.  The railing was then turned around and the other half was bent in a similar manner.  Doing it in this way meant that the bends in two halves of the railing were at least identical, even if the overall curve curve was not quite right.  It turned out that a little more bend was required on both ends.  For this, where a greater bend was necessary I used a piece of dowell as support when I applied pressure to make the bend.
 
The bend in the railing has turned out to be virtually identical with the curve of the balcony.
 

 

 

 
I hope the next three photos will give an idea of the method.
 

 

 

 
Actually attaching the railing is likely to be not so straighfoward at all.  If you look closely at the third photo, the flat decorative part of the railing on the right side is about 0.5 mm out. This needed filing to enable it to fit between the main decoration and the column.The problem shows up with the small gap between the top of the flat railing and the window.  There is no such gap on the left side. It's just annoying as the problem could have been avoided with a bit of foresight. - always dry-fit.
 
More serious, the problem I and others have had with the plans concerning the height of the floor of the balcony and the stern facia  has come home to roost.  My solution to that problem was to make the stern facia (Pt117) about 1mm or so lower than the  bottom of the balcony - I then filled in the gap.  This all means that the curved part of the railing, to conform with the flat parts on either side will be about a mm or so too low when attached ot the balcony.  In fact you will be able to just see the edge of the balcony though the railing. I have dry fitted the railing and fortunately it doesn't appear  to be really noticeable.  I have now painted the edge black and hope that this will further disguise it.
 
 

Very very nice Pete.

Hello all...
 
 
I have the basic painting and most of the details done on the spar deck - just a bit of touch ups and fine tuning remain.   Here are some sample views:       The spar deck was given a base coat of aged white (no tinting like the gun deck) and individual planks were picked out with Vallejo Wood mixed with Vallejo aged white, Vallejo Aged White mixed with Microlux Reefer White, and straight up Vallejo gray wash.  After 24 hours everything then got a quick smear with Vallejo Sepia wash that was immediately wiped down with a soft clean cloth leaving a nice wood tone and coloring the seams between the planks.   Nothing is glued down and the brass is yet to be blackened, but I can now move on to painting the half hulls.   Hope folks are still following along - I'm sure the World Cup is more interesting!   Evan

Today , I got the trim package stained ( rub rail & toe rail) I then painted the waterline on the Rudder ( Gloss White ) and the Spreaders ( flat White ) I installed the Rub rails first followed by the Toe rails , I then installed the fore and aft Cockpit trim . Then I was able to get 3 coats of Epifanes varnish on all the trim, Almost ready for rigging and Ballast.  Here are the results

After a few months hiatus from modelling I am back, with some new toys to play with. First, my new lathe - a Sherline model 4410. Here it is pictured with the optional 4 jaw chuck, holding an oar:
 

 
Here are some oars. The from bottom to top: cut from the kit, (middle) after turning on the lathe, (top) after being sanded down with my new Byrnes disc sander:
 

 

 
And finally, a picture of my model as of right now. Note that I have added BOUNTY lettering to the prow of the boat:
 

 

 
I have to finish this model - it is taking way too long! And I have to make room in my modelling space for my next project, WHICH HAS FINALLY ARRIVED!!!!!!! I am excited and intimidated at the same time. Watch this space for a new build log very soon!

So I took a pice off the end of the frame blank and then shaped it roughly.
 

 
After filing cutouts into it it seems to fit reasonably well.
 

 
I need to thin it out a bit as it seems too think compared to the other beams.
 

The hull is now finished and below are some photos.
 
The next phase will be the masts and the rigging.
 
SERVING this is one thing that has unoccupied my thoughts, serving the rope is one thing I want to do on Diana that I did not on Pegasus,so how to serve the parts of the rigging that require it, like the top part of the shrouds and the forward ones where the sails can rub according the Rigging Period Ship models by “Lennarth Petersson”. I have been reading through logs to try and find the technique needed to do said serving,and fairly quickly came to the conclusion that the only successful way would to be to use a machine,and the way forward would to be to buy one of Alex’s ones The Machine 2.0 an unforeseen cost at $100 or £62 delivered, but having upgraded the decks, and mast material, is the only way to go, so one was ordered from his website,it came in only a few days nearly as fast as ordering something from home,( I have yet to put it together) pay pal does have its uses . The other item just arrived is black Guterman polyester thread 6 spools for £6 on e bay,
 
So mast making next and some serving practice.
 
Mort
I agree Cornwall model boats give a first class service I have bought all my upgrade materials and extra thread blocks & paint from them.