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Der Alte Rentner

NRG Member
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About Der Alte Rentner

  • Birthday December 7

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Green Oaks, Illinois
  • Interests
    Woodworking, piano/keyboards, motorcycling, bicycling, swimming, and not outliving my savings...

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  1. Port side main channel chain plates, deadeyes, and eye bolts installed... Mistakes were made but I managed to recover from them. The lessons learned should result in smoother sailing for the remaining five channels. I also marked the locations for the port holes.
  2. Oh snap! My bad. I just double checked the Hunt practicum and learned that I misread that portion of the instructions. The channels are tapered, yes, but only by 1/16" of an inch at their fore and aft edges. Sorry abut the miscue.
  3. It's been a while since I've posted. I feel like I've been busy, but I don't have much to show by way of results. The fore and main channels have been fabricated, and installed. The hardest part of this was not breaking belaying pins, rails or disturbing the carronades while holding the channels in place long enough for the 5-minute epoxy to dry. Try as I might, I could not find a way to clamp these in place with the tools I have at hand. So my hands were the clamps. A close second in terms of difficulty was marking the holes for the pins correctly, so that the channels rode evenly below the outer planksheer.
  4. Jon is correct, the transom is one of the first major obstacles to overcome on this build. I've seen several builders bail at this point. You complicating the process by going for the 1812ish 6 window configuration is going to make this even more challenging. I look forward with eager anticipation to your progress in this endeavor. I'm pretty sure you're already following Haiko, aka the Bitter End, in his scratch build. If not, here's a link to the post that talks about his choice to go with a 7 window transom. Maybe you can pick up some tips and techniques to help you in later stages of the construction effort. Excellent progress to date. Congrats and keep up the good work.
  5. Hello Mustafa, I didn't want to copy the photos from your post after you installed the channel caps and clutter up your build log, but I have a question. Did you taper the channels from the hull to the cap? It doesn't seem to me that you did, which is perfectly fine by me. I'm just looking for justification to follow in your footsteps. Since I can't cover up mistakes with black paint, I have to very carefully consider the steps involved in attaching the channels, chain plates, dead eyes and caps. If you did taper, it's hard to see in those photos.. Thanks in advance.
  6. I just checked my accounting records and online purchase history. While I do have notes in the memo fields for belaying pins, cleats, single and double blocks, rope and wheel kit purchases from Syren, I have no record of having purchased deadeyes. I struck out searching for deadeye as well. So, barring a "senior moment", these are most likely Model Shipways components. (Umm, unless I pilfered them from the Constructo kit?) Next time I'm in the shipyard I'll check to see if they came from Constructo. If so, I'll let you know. For now, assume Model Shipways standard component. For what it's worth, I'll save you the time - I just checked Syren site, and their's are not the ones I'm using.
  7. Seems to me those numbers are inverted. Looks more than 75 by my count. Yikes!
  8. very good point. I'll see what I can do about that. ..and, the photo above clearly shows that the chainplates attach to the deadeyes above the channel. I may have to both angle and widen the slots so the attachment point is in the channel, assuming I don't redo the stropping - eliminate a couple of wraps and shortening the distance between strop and chainplate.
  9. That had occurred to me. The channels are marked to indicate fore and aft, top and bottom. What I am thinking about is whether to try to angle the slots for the chainplates in the channels. I could just fudge it by making the slots wide enough that there's plenty of wiggle room to maneuver. If I make them as narrow as Hunt did, they're barely wider than the kit provided channels - no fudge factor there.. And my perfectionist side is nagging at me about the length between the deadeye and the loop. Remake them with two fewer twists? Back off bro! 😁
  10. On my first go-around I wrapped .45 mm wire around a .8 mm rod. I purchased some .6 mm rod, that I intended to swap the .8 mm rod out with. Forgetting my intention, I wrapped the .6 mm rod around the .8 mm rod and liked the result so well that I made 18 of the 5/32" dead eyes for use on the channels and chain plates for the main mast. Since I already had 10 of the 5/32" dead eyes from the first attempt, I wanted to finish that batch using the same .45mm wire. To reduce the amount of tweaking after the initial wrap, I swapped the .6 mm rod for the .8 mm rod and wrapped the .45mm wire around that. I now have 16 of those, which I will use for the foremast. My concern in using the .45 mm wire was that the loop, which would attach to the chain plate, wouldn't hold up under tension during rigging. After some experimenting, I realized this was not really an issue. Bottom line: it's easiest to work the .45 mm wire then the .6 mm rod. For the remaining smaller diameter deadeyes, that's the option I will go with. I don't think the casual observer will notice a difference.
  11. Very nicely done! Congrats. Now all you have to do is rig them..😁 (oh, and thanks for including the photo of the dime - for nostalgia's sake. I can't remember the last time I actually handled change of a dollar.) (lastly, does Tom know you're crossing over into his field? I noticed the kit from Model Airways on the floor.)
  12. It just dawned on me that we may have been thinking of different things. I was referring to the rod I twist the wire around. If that were a tad thinner, I'd have a narrower sleeve to pass the wire through, resulting in less tweaking to snug things up - as if I were seizing. You are probably thinking I should use a thicker wire for the strop. I don't think I'll be able to wrap that as easily or as nicely around the .8 mm rod to form the sleeve. I'll know soon enough if .7 mm wire will work better as the strop or the tool to make the strop. For what it's worth, I did try double wrapping the .45 mm wire around the deadeye. Unfortunately the groove around the deadeye was too narrow to accommodate two wraps. One side was riding higher than the other, and I didn't want to bother with widening the grooves on the deadeyes marginally to mimic the look of the real deal. I also tried using the .8 mm rod as the strop, but couldn't achieve the result Mustafa did, and, it was too thick to wrap around itself like the .45 mm wire. I could spend a week trying different things, but I'm happy enough with the above to call it a win.
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