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Der Alte Rentner

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About Der Alte Rentner

  • Birthday December 7

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Green Oaks, Illinois
  • Interests
    Woodworking, piano/keyboards, motorcycling, bicycling, swimming, and not outliving my savings...

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  1. Going back and forth between builds, trying to firmly grasp construction details of cheek knees, trailboard, and head rails, I was impressed by your work in this area. I will go so far as to say that IMHO you eclipsed XKen in managing the curve at the tail end of the trailboard, where he cut it short. Boy of boy, am I dreading this step..
  2. Jon, I spent some time today checking other build logs, one of which was XKen's. I noticed that the drills he uses seem to be very short, or have very little of the cutting end protruding from chucks. This might be a technique that would resist your drill bits breaking. He doesn't discuss it, but I suspect he shortened the cutting end of the drill bits and hand sharpened them. E.G. That last one might have been an outlier..
  3. My vote is for top left. This seems to most closely match (to my eye at least) the color of the sails on the photo on the model's box cover. No?
  4. I hadn't planned on using the router bit on the MF70. I would use my router table, like I did to make the hatch coamings (post 203) and the base (post 184). I see that you've already concluded your mass production run and that you are well on the way to completing the gun carriages, so I will not pursue the topic further at this point. Instead, I've got to see how others are handling construction of cheek knees, head rails and trail boards. I thought I dreaded the galleries, but those efforts pale in comparison to what I foresee coming up next. I look forward to seeing you you tackle those last items.. Right now, I'm looking at Usedtosail, Kmart and XKen, among others for ideas and techniques.
  5. I'm finishing up the main rail and starting to think about the top rail, but dreading tackling the trail and head rail construction. I'm studying your bill very carefully and thank you for providing such detailed photographs. The hardest problem I've had is visualizing what these would be like. Your pictures have really helped.
  6. I'm still of the opinion that a router bit would be the best option here. Next time I'm at the shipyard, I'll run through my collection of bits and see if I can find anything that would facilitate the shape that you're looking for, Mustafa. If I succeed I'll show you some photos. I hadn't intended to make my own gun carriages, but if they look better than what came laser cut from the kit, this will have been an instructive conversation.
  7. I couldn't have said it better myself, Gregg. Yes Mustafa, it looks like a simple Ogee bit would get you the result you're aiming for. The question is can you get one in that size? I assume that you have a router table with a fence..
  8. My orthopedic surgeon would disagree, but he hasn't yet seen the model.. 😁 I did not have much success with mustafa's lamination technique. If I were painting, this would not be a problem because I could fill the gaps with putty, sand, and hide the offending areas. I might go back to just making wider panels and cutting the shapes, per the Hunt Practicum.
  9. Now, that is an interesting approach to shaping the gun carriages. I assume that you did not have a router bit with the appropriate shape and size..
  10. No worries Haiko, that's what these forms are for, the sharing of information. Here's a nugget of information I'm going to share today. I installed the two knees at the transom that I fail to do in the initial round of top rail planking. Amazing how such little task can take so many hours..
  11. When I last looked at my Constitution, I was bemoaning the fact that I had forgotten that step when I finished the main and top rails. The glue between two pieces of boxwood is curing as I type these words, and I will be attempting to retrofit those knees myself tomorrow or Tuesday.
  12. I cannot stress enough the value of a thickness drum sander for situations like this. You can get fairly close with a saw, then run the parts through the thickness drum sander for final dimensioning. It's a shame that the Byrnes company no longer makes theirs. I've had my Jet drum sander for about 15 years for my woodworking hobby and with proper setup, I can dimension with amazing precision.
  13. I've never seen that spelling for gunwale before, but turns out it's a legit alternative spelling. You're referring to the planking at the top of the hull, working your way down toward the wale. I haven't seen anyone at MSW put any visible caulking between these planks. Oddly enough however, for the deck planking people do attempt to simulate caulking. In reality I'm guessing there must be caulking between the planks on the hull to keep water out. No? I would think that since most people sand, apply putty, then send some more, and then paint the hull black, no one is concerning themselves with this issue. In my experience, I glued the edges of all the hull planking. As carefully as I prepared the planks, there was still much trimming with a chisel and some finish sanding. In the end I couldn't see any glue seams. I don't think I'd worry about it if I were you. By the way, you are working away a quite the pace there. At this rate you'll be done by the end of the year.. Kudos on what you accomplished so far.
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