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Der Alte Rentner

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About Der Alte Rentner

  • Birthday December 7

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Green Oaks, Illinois
  • Interests
    Woodworking, piano/keyboards, motorcycling, bicycling, swimming, and not outliving my savings...

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  1. My vote is for the DRI! But, since this site is dedicated to Model Ships, I feel obligated to encourage you to return to the Constitution first. Either way, I look forward to future posts.
  2. Remember my comment that there wouldn't be much to post for a while (20 or so posts ago 😁)? Yesterday, I spent the entire day publishing volume 2 of my build log (meaning, I printed two copies and shared the pdf with a few close friends). That marked two years under my belt at this! With some travel plans upcoming, and a lot of repetitive block construction in the works, I will likely be less "visible" here until July. Though, like most builders on summer sabbaticals, I will be checking in to see what's up elsewhere. So, with this: I bid you all auf wiedersehen P.S. In case you're wondering, the cover shots are the state of the project at the beginning of the year in question.
  3. Nice. Looking forward to seeing the finished project!! As an aside.. In a conversation with a friend who I shared my build log with, he mentioned that he grew nostalgic for the days when he build model airplanes out of balsa So, I asked him if he had any he would share with me. This was his response: "This is all that remains." 🙄 It just dawned on me that my next project, after Conny, should be a Fokker Triplane! That's something I've been wanting to do almost as long as I've wanted to build the Constitution. I saw this one at an airfield somewhere in Wisconsin in my early 20's, and I've wanted to build one ever since. Thanks for the nudge. I'm putting a recurring reminder in my calendar so I don't forget. Congrats on the hammock netting. Excellent workmanship, (which I will NOT be attempting to emulate 😁) and enjoy your sabbatical.
  4. Until you start messing with the small stuff, like 1/8"double blocks.. I wish it were twice the size! The vertical reference lines are there to assist you in keeping the bulkheads perpendicular to (hmm, what exactly are they perpendicular to?) the future deck or provide parallel spacing between bulkheads. I must have missed that detail in my build, or thought it pointless. The horizontal reference line is to help correctly place the bulkheads on the false keel. In the photo on the left, note the intersection of reference lines at bulkhead F. In the one on the right, note that I did not use the vertical reference lines. My build log has no reference to how I kept the bulkheads perfectly vertical. but, I do have this note: "It seems that all this prep work with the reference lines may have been academic. So far, every part I’ve slid onto the false keel has bottomed out slot to slot and the reference marks have all lined up." Have fun!
  5. For what it's worth, weaker hemostats don't seem to exist. I was on the hunt for these when I saw how much better they were for holding on to hooks and blocks. Your solution to use clips is brilliant, and I've employed that method myself to prevent crushing the blocks.
  6. Added your build log to my Followed Content today and noticed you changed your ID photo. In keeping with the start of work on Conny?
  7. Absolutely! I understand that the orientation is as you say - the hook being perpendicular to the eye. I take your suggestions to heart, and am grateful you think my build worthy of your time and input. I was only making excuses(?) for my not "strapping" a hook to a block as suggested in the photo from All Sails Up and Flying posted by Gregg above. Almost no builder here is doing that. Most are tying the hook to the block in the manner you and I are doing. Were I a stickler for that level of detail, (and you all know I'm not. Is my hull black? I don't think so! 😁), I would be reeving a strap over the eye of the hook and the groove of the thimble, then clapping seizing between the thimble and block. Maybe on my second build? In 2030? For now, I'll take selected shortcuts so that I'll be able to START a second build by 2030..🤣
  8. Really? I don't see that at all. To me the hook looks flat. But that just could be my aging eyes. One more argument in favor of my point of view is Bob Hunt's practicum, which, despite its flaws, is still the resource I check first. In the photo below, notice that for the double block, he uses the drill-baby-drill technique that I started with. As mentioned before, had I used the model shipways blocks, this would have been the easiest way to go. As good looking as the Syren blocks are, they are somewhat problematic. Shall I keep score of respondent's votes OMG! Taking that break to check the site, I returned to the task at hand with a sudden flash of insight - new way to hold hook and block to easily tie the two together. Now I'm down to 2 minutes per unit. Hooray!
  9. My goal is not to hit 100 pages. I'm just embarrassed to be using up so much space and I'm wondering how I can tighten up my work. Regardless, whether I hit 100 Pages or not, I'm always up for a party. 🥳
  10. That is an excellent observation, Mustafa, and it's something that I thought about myself. Arguments for sticking with my method? 1. The Marquardt book. 1. And Syren Ship Model Company catalog itself. 3. At least one other builder is doing it the way that I am. 4. I don't know if I can bend the hooks at this point without breaking them. And I certainly don't want to remake the 20 that I've already done, which, by the way, are already a mixed bag of the two methods I've been employing. I made another four this morning and ran a stopwatch. I'm averaging one in about 10 minutes now. Wo hoo! On a roll. How do you do this in 2 minutes, Mustafa? Since I still have work to do on the hull, I can't install the coronades or cannons until I've, at the very least, installed the rudder and most likely the gun deck cannons and ports covers. Therefore, I needed a place to store the tackle, which I intend to complete first. I'm happy that the drills that came with the Craft911 pin vise have shafts that will fit in one of the Proxxon mill collets. I'm not entirely pleased with this first pair, but as has been observed many times at this website, at a distance no one's going to notice the flaws. That would also include whether or not the hooks are perpendicular to the eyes.
  11. I've asked this before, but not having received a reply, I'll ask again. Does anyone know what triggers a new page here at the MSW site? Is it the number of posts? Some specific period of time? Some number of bytes per page? Just curious, I seem to be cranking out quite a few pages, which begs the question, who holds the record for most pages in a build log? 0 At the rate I'm going, I might hit 100 well before I finish this build. 😁
  12. Adopting Mustafa's method and adding Gregg's three hands, I have settled on a procedure that goes fairly quickly. Sadly not as fast as 2 minutes per block, but a lot quicker than what I was doing by drilling the holes before. I loop the rope once around the eye in the eye bolt and add a small drop of CA to keep the rope from moving in the eye. The only way I can get the knot to work was to adopt Hunt's technique of keeping the hook on the left of the block, for which I made a little rigging rig. (I won't bother showing pictures of the two other methods that were only semi-successful.) Tying the knot. After this, I use a thin brass rod to drop a little AC at both ends of the block. To keep everything from unraveling. Finished product.
  13. That sounds SO easy. But I have found it quite difficult to tie that knot and keep the rope in the channel on the rim of the block. That may have something to do with the small size, or simply the nature of the Syren blocks. I am experimenting with different clamping techniques to try to tie the hook to the block today. I will post my results when I've found an effective and relatively easy solution.
  14. Gregg, after seeing your list of resource materials, I ordered the anatomy of the ship by Karl Heinz Marquardt. The timing couldn't have been much better. I see in the diagrams for the armament, that the hooks should in fact be stropped to the blocks. Maybe I'll just make my own brass hooks and get to stropping after all. (maybe no one will notice that the eight I've already made will look different..)
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