Der Alte Rentner

The plans that came with my model shipways kit are really beat up - especially page four around the top view near the bowsprit. The plans do not show any front views of the rails in that area. Only side views and that top view at the center of page four. What remains somewhat visible on my version of that plan suggests that the top rails do meet at the center of the bowsprit. In other words no gap. I think that's what I'm going to be going for. And I'm still debating on the notion of the flairs. Did I say 5 years? Maybe six..

All the pictures in the world are not going to help me Jon. In retrospect, I wish I'd never installed the top gallant rails at all. And to be honest, getting rid them altogether hasn't been completely ruled out. But since the rails up to the catheads are already in place, or mosty underway, I have to find an aesthetic solution, and I don't particularly care what era of the build that does or does not reflect. I'm heading to the shipyard now, where I intend to stare at this thing for a little while longer. This is why my buld is going to take 5 years. And Geoff, I'm expecting you to start posting again sometime soon. In about 3 years I'm going to need your build as a reference on rigging to have any hope of finishing this. Hop to it please! 😁

So will I (look forward to see how it looks).. Another variation that I'm sure Jon will comment on is the one used by Bob Hunt. In shopping around for easy ways to finish this railing, I consulted many old logs, then went back to look at chapter 5 in the Hunt practicum, where he constructs the bulwarks. But doesn't add the top gallant rail until chapter 12. There's not one reference anywhere between. Note the missing curved section that tapers down to the main rail as appears in the 2015 version.

Looking closely at my model, I've decided not to dismantle the top gallant rails astern, rather to add them at the bow. Borrowing from a tip by Mustafa, I'm launching into the effort today. First I had to cut a bunch of 3/64 x 3/32 x 3/16" blanks. Next up was setting up the Proxxon mill to drill a hole to accommodate a 1 mm brass wire, which I cut to fit and inserted. Then I hand drilled a 1mm hole into the main rail to accommodate the assembly. Rinse, repeat.. These vertical posts will accommodate the planking for the bulwarks. I may add some more photos later today, but you'll get the idea from this.

Sorry David, no, I was asking Woodartist, who responded to your post with, "I will have a nice scotch on the rocks." I've been following three of his builds for quite some time but noticed he hasn't posted in many months on any of those three. I checked to see if you had a build log, but didn't see one. What are you building?

I'm cleaning up my Followed Content folder, which had ballooned to two dozen build logs. I have seen you chime in on my build log from time to time lately, but haven't seen you update any of the three build logs I've been "following". Have you carried your oars so far inland that someone asked what they were? An obscure reference - to be sure.. Basically, I'm asking if you've closed your Shipyard. You seemed to be so close to finishing this and I had hoped to see the finished product. I'll keep this log on my following list for the time being, and Hope you're doing well.

I did. 5 years from now, when I finally get around to building the ship's boats, I'll pull the details from the archives, but I'm hoping by then you'll be finished with Conny and reconsidering a little subcontracting.. 😉

No. It's not a lack of materials, it's more of a time consuming replacement issue. And as I mentioned before, unnecessary. To wit:

Brilliant idea! The brass must be significantly easier to work than wood or styrene. Can't wait to see the finished product!

I'll ask again. Would you like to become a subcontractor for these? The

The worst of the break lines will be covered by the hawse pipes. I tried drilling with smaller diameter drills, also making sure I had a backing piece behind the piece I was drilling into. I think I should have used the jewelers saw and curved file instead, but it's all good. No one is going to be looking that closely in the first place, and the hawse pipes cover the worst of the damage.

Ha! This just goes to show you, there's more than one way to skin a cat. I was going the other way around, as you know. And I had three of the four pieces cut and fit. I decided to use two 3/16 inch sections in the center for the hawse pipes, because of the differences in thickness of the wale at that point. Since the middle section was going to be stained, I decided to drill the holes for the hawse pipes and this happened.. I'll did the best I could to glue that piece back into place. Since it will be stained and the hawse pipes will cover most of the sin, this should suffice. But it did dampen my spirits for a time today.

There were no posts at the beginning of May of 2024, but with some digging, I was able to find a May 30 post where he displayed 3 photos. Reluctant as I was to join yet another blog site, I did register to see if's posting anything more recent that that. I would love to see how he tackled the pinstriping. I did see that he coppered the hull. I'm not sure I like the look. But I'll add it to the list of things to ponder in the coming weeks. Thanks for the lead Jon. P.S. I just went back to the site and couldn't find the earlier post with the three pictures, but I did find this: Indeed, John and I are on the same page on the color scheme. Though I suspect the scrollwork and galleries were pre-fab and provided by the kit maker - Mamoli. Zooming in as best I could on the bow, I saw that this was a simpler approach than the one we're all dealing with. And! It does encourage me to stick with all stain on the three head rails. No pinstriping! That should make life easier. Also, the more I look at the copper plating, the less I like it with the natural finish. Lastly, I'm starting on my second set of cheek knees but taking a much different approach than the Bob Hunt hockey stick method. I I'm going to attach the parts that attach to the hull first. Then, the trailboard with scrollwork, and after those are in, I'll fabricate the last two parts of the cheek knees. I think this will be much easier. (I can't tell you how many times I broke the hockey sticks during the test fitting process on the starboard side assembly.) This was taken a few days ago, but I was feeling the need to show more than just the snippets I have of late.

Holy cow! Sorry I inadvertently stirred up a hornet next of controversy bringing up the discrepancy on the carronades. I finally got access to the Museum's 3D tour and, low and behold, the topgallant rail at the bow is still there. So the Google link is the go to link to see Conny as she exists today. As far as the carronades are concerned, I'm committed with the brass ones I acquired and I'll continue following Jon's guidance and remain the captain of my own ship. Due to endodontist and dentist visits ad nauseum, I've been sidelined for a few days. Hopefully back to work tomorrow. Nice work as always Mustafa. You are an inspiration to us all.. and because this response posted on a new page, I didn't see the posts about MSW website access. I've had no problem there.

Works like a charm. Thanks for sharing. I've bookmarked the link. But I did notice one small detail. There's a carronade and carriage on the starboard side that differs from the rest. It's the one in the middle of the photo. Just an FYI to those sticklers for detail..

So, I just tried to take the tour myself. Something seems to be amiss at the site, After selecting all I got was this: The logo at top left of an otherwise completely blank page. Clicking on the logo delivered me to a page that appears to be an ad for Guided. However, I did find a link to Google's 3D tour of the spar deck and see that Mustafa is conforming to that version. I did take examine all 360 degrees of the Google exhibit, which confirms that the only place the topgallant rail exists is at the bowsprit. I wasn't looking forward to adding the rail at the bowsprit, and like what I've seen in Jon's photos above. While I am happy with the rails I constructed amidships and aft, I am considering jettisoning them, just so I can bail on the bowsprit. It'll be a while before I get to that, since I'm still laboring with the cheek knees, so, we'll see.. There is something to be said for the KISS principle - Keep it simple s***** P.S. If I decide the risk of causing unwarranted damage in dismantling the after rails is too great, I am heartened to learn of Mustafa's technique here. Thank you sir, you are the master!

Drat, I had hoped to be able to just edit the above post with some new pictures, but a couple of my model ship World friends already chimed in on that, so, here's my last post for the day. I think I've settled on the color scheme. This isn't entirely finished yet, some sanding and top coat required, but I'm calling it a day.

Tough slogging on the bottom cheek knee. I still have to drill holes for the Hawse pipes and to decide on a color scheme. Having experimented with several options on trying to emulate the narrow light colored stripes, I think I'm calling it a day on that as an option. Either the entire assembly will be stained brown, or only the center panel between the cheeks. So much time, so little progress.

Oooh, I'm going to be monitoring this discussion closely! I'd love to be able skip the bow rail. In fact, I don't think I'd mind removing the rails midships and aft, which I only added because I was following the practicum and not paying attention to these builds..

Shopping online today, I found that ModelExpo sells .75 x 6mm Brass Jackstay Eyebolts in 500 piece lots for about $15. They also market their 60 piece set at Amazon. Given what ModelExpo charges for shipping, I would have preferred Amazon, but the 500 piece option was not available there. Bottom line, all in price via ModelExpo for 500 1/32" eyebolts (aka jackstays) - $21.98. Oh well..

Guaranteed.. I still can't believe how much shaping I had to do to get level planks, and that was just with the one layer. You'll be fine.

Drat, by switching my phone to camera mode while entering this post, I just lost all the text I had already typed. Well, let's see if I remember it.. The Spar deck now has two coats of poly and all of the eye bolts, both single and double, that I intend to use, are in place. So, putting rigging the carronades aside until I no longer have to turn the hull on its side (or upside down), I have shifted my attention back to the hull. Specifically the trail board, the scroll work, and the cheek knees. Unfortunately my decision to go with the stained / natural finish contrast scheme is coming back to haunt me yet again. Do I try to go with a light/dark contrast, as most people employ in the standard black/white finish on their Constitutions? Do I opt for an all stained, or an all natural finish instead? If I try to emulate the dark stripe down the middle of the cheek knees, how do I do it cleanly? This photo excerpt is from the Hunt practicum - chapter 8, HP 8.1-1 on page 2. Here's what I'm staring at.. Decisions, decisions..

Is it just me or are the gun deck ports slightly concave vertically? The Spar deck ports look great.

Man, that's fine workmanship..

At the rate I'm going, you'll have plenty of time to catch up. Given what I've seen of your productivity, I might be looking to your build log for tips and techniques before I'm done. Again, congrats on a fine build, and thanks for the stroll down memory lane for me (check your post 25 and 26). Here's hoping you get that shipyard clearance soon.😁