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Der Alte Rentner

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Everything posted by Der Alte Rentner

  1. I used double-sided tape to affix printed star shapes onto a styrene strip (.010" x .188"). I then used an Excel 17a chisel blade to cut out the shapes. There's no way these are going to end up being perfect. I threw away about as many as I ended up gluing to the transom. Truth be told, I think it might have been easier to make them using boxwood and my scroll saw, as I did for the stars in the decoration on the trail board/stem. Scroll back a bunch of pages to see how I did that in my build log. I could not find a source for Star decals in the size required for this job.
  2. Doing a little house keeping here by finishing up some undone stuff. I finally got around to cutting the stars out of styrene for the transom.
  3. Of course, I should have known that. With the effort you put into your gun deck, you'd want every view available to show off your artistry.
  4. Hi Tom, My goal is to keep the hull 'completely' dry. but thanks for the novel 😆 idea.. Peter
  5. gleaned from your commentary on channels. I was wondering how I'd keep them secure against the hull. The pins are a great idea! Thanks from nearly 9 years hence.. DAR
  6. Hey, Mustafa, Thanks to Jon's contribution on the previous page (recapped below), I just noticed that there's a hole in the center of the curtains/carved boards for the rope required to pull up the gunport lid from inside. Since you already glued yours onto the hull, have you decided not to add the rope? It seems to me that you could have drilled these holes more easily before mounting the curtains vs. using a pin vise now - unless the plan is to exclude the ropes from the build. (yes, I have too much time on my hands 😁).
  7. I struck out in my online search for methods of aging the copper plate for the hull. Given that the materials supplied with the kit have a tape/paper backed copper strip, none of the soaking approaches suggested by A/I Deep Searches yielded a workable solution. Does anyone know of a supplier of adhesive copper tape already green (green, as in an aged penny or the Statue of Liberty)? To refresh memories before anyone asks, I don't like the look of the shiny copper next to my "natural" finished planking.
  8. I'm amazed by the depth of knowledge and keen interest on the part of the naval historians at the MSW site. I learn something new here every day..
  9. Hunt calls them "curtains". .. and you have chosen a very novel approach to their construction. Kudos!
  10. Your bow detailing is striking and elegant. I look forward to seeing how you deal with the trailboard and ornaments. I assume you have the plans which include the drawings of the ornaments. In which case, you - of all people - should have no problem. Since you seem to have a knack for metal work, XKen's method for making these may be of interest to you. Or you could try styrene (the Bob Hunt method). I'm sure you'll come up with something amazing. (Don't forget that I have the artwork for those oval flags, as well as the scale drawings of the ornaments, if you need them, at post 499.) My thoughts are to tackle what I can on the hull first, so I can finally clamp it down to work on a stable platform. Rudder? Channels? Gundeck cannons and port lids? But maybe before I do much else , I'll experiment with aging the copper plating to see how the green looks next to my planking. If I like the look, that could be next.
  11. Finally! While not perfect, due to slight discrepancies in symmetry between port and starboard sides, I am pretty satisfied with the result of the port side planking. More than that, I'm happy to be moving on to something else. What that will be remains to be determined. Drat! I think I know what that's going to be afterall. I noticed a chip in the bottom port side rail, right near the top by the ornamental arrow in the trailboard scroll work. Maybe I'll try to fix that. I have no idea when that happened. Again, the camera sees more than the naked eye. Before I left the shipyard, I had to at least try to fix the chipped rail.
  12. I fabricated rail three in three parts finding this to be the easiest way to do it. I wish I'd done this with the starboard side rail, but better late than never. Before I attempt to attach the stiffeners for the planking, I am going to let the glue and stain cure, and contemplate employing Mustafa's technique of adding a backing plank to make that installation easier. So I'm going to take the rest of the weekend off. Happy Memorial Day to all. By the way, if anyone looking at my post has not yet discovered the one for The Bitter End, look that one up. You are going to be stunned with what he posted today. Link follows: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/37377-uss-constitution-by-the-bitter-end-model-shipways-176/page/6/#comment-1101164
  13. "Wow" seems like a severe understatement. I've never seen anything like the workmanship you've displayed here, and I am soooo looking forward to following the rest of your build. Congratulations!
  14. Blast! I wish I'd seen this post 2 hours ago. I am dealing with the remaining port side rails today. Unfortunately I already glued the top head rail in place and it may be difficult to add that backing plank, but I'm going to give it a try. Anything to make gluing those stiffeners in place is going to be a huge plus. Great work as always, Mustafa.
  15. Due to matters requiring attention at home, I am using the day to update my personal build log on my desktop PC. When it came time to mention the gammoning issue, I felt I needed a photo to illustrate what I was talking about. Here's a photo from a post by "AllanKP69" at another model building website. Have a good weekend all..
  16. I'm glad to see you got some value out of the kit's components. Looking sharp there. Um, what's the pin(?) with the red ball at the end, and what's it used for?
  17. Though not visible in the photos below, I did check to see where the gammoning would be on the bowsprit and I believe there will be plenty of room to pass rope between the head and the bowsprit. So, no worries on that front. Meanwhile, work begins on the port side.. (As an aside, this dividing attachment is a pretty crappy accessory for the proxxon MF 70 mill. It would be nice if the rotary base would accommodate the small proxon vise instead of having these ridiculous Jaws. At least I got one thing accomplished using the tool.)
  18. And you have every reason to be happy with the overall look. Splendid work!
  19. Exactly what I did, Thomas. In the end, the planking strengthened the entire structure. All's well that ends well. Starboard side done. Now I get to relive the entire adventure on the port side. Oh joy! 😁 P.S. Once again, a photo shows me something I didn't see with my naked eyes. I have to redrill the Gammon holes, preferably before I plank the port side. And yes, Mustafa, rope gammoning is correct. I've seen several references to it online and at this website. Finally, before anyone asks, I have no idea why I put dowels in those holes in the stem..
  20. Hey, that's a great idea! If I get that far.. Today was very frustrating. While gluing in the first plank, those "plank stiffeners" came loose at several points along the lower head rail. I pieced things back together as best I could and hope that subsequent planks serve to reinforce the structure. My choice to stain these parts is coming back to vex me yet again. It's oil based and covered with clear matte poly, but given the small surface areas at the mating points, the joints are extremely fragile. If things go south, the gammons will be the least of my worries.. Thanks again!
  21. Well, well, well.. another deficit in the Hunt practicum. There's absolutely no mention of gammoning that I can find anywhere through chapter 12. Now, maybe when I get back to my desktop I can search for the term "gammoning" and see if it pops up somewhere. But frankly, I hadn't even thought about it until you asked. The grates are already glued in. Now that I've seen the gammoning on the plans, it's possible I might still be able to get them in, at some point. If not, I'm going to take a low-tech approach and cheat - perhaps just paint them on the bowsprit, or simply omit them. (For what it's worth, the Constructo kit plans don't even include them.) If I don't cheat, maneuvering the chain is going to be really tricky. Two steps forward, one step back. Along those lines, I am finding it very difficult to glue the plank stiffeners in place. Neither tite-bond nor CA glue is sticking well to the lower head rail. I'm hoping that the planks themselves will afford enough points of adhesion, that the whole structure will stay in place. Make that two steps forward, three steps back? Thank you for bringing this to my attention, Mustafa.
  22. Thanks again, Thomas, for providing that group of pictures a little while ago. This one really helps me visualize how the head and main rails merge. I couldn't quite work that out from the plans. Since my main rail is already in place, I'll have to do a little bit of tweaking to get the headrail and filler piece configured. But now I have a direction. Mustafa and greg, I added the following pictures after you saw this post. In order to do the planking on the starboard side I needed to fabricate the main rail. As long as I was making one, I did both. They are only tacked in for these photos.
  23. No sails for me, Mustafa! But I confess, it never occurred to me not to do the rigging. Somehow I think the model wouldn't quite be the same without at least some rigging. But thanks for suggesting a labor saving solution. We will chat about this again in a year.. in the meantime Enjoy your summer off. (And thanks for the stroll down memory lane.)
  24. Mustafa, Looking at the photos submitted by Jon above, I noticed, yet again, that the bumpkin is absent in all but one. And in the one where it does exist, there's nothing is rigged to it. I remember that you said you would add this anyway, but I guess my question is, why bother?
  25. The mind sometimes ventures to weird places.. Um, with the entire area planked, where did the effluent go?
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