Der Alte Rentner

Jon, and Mustafa, Thanks for your invaluable comments and feedback. I went back to have a second look at where the end of my topgallant rail was in relationship to the plan and compared that to where Hunt ended his. You are 100% correct, Mustafa, to point out Hunt's extends well forward of the cathead. Mine actually conform to the plans and coincide with the photo Jon contributed to the conversation above, as do the placement of my cleats - despite the fact that the scale is waaaaaaay off. But they came with the kit (though, evidently not the metal one that the anchor line is supposed to be secured to), so I used what I had. Looking at this photo (Photo 1) from Jon, I'm wondering how the anchor line should run from the cathead to the cleat. Mustafa rightly points out that, in this case, the hammock net would interfere with the line coming over the top of the topgallant rail. Even allowing that the gap just forward of the hammock net might provide a path for the line, it seems the angle from that gap to the cleat is a tad extreme. There doesn't seem to be a plate in that gap, where one would expect the line to rest on, were the anchor line routed that way. I won't be adding the hammock nets, so this could render the point academic. The angle is even more extreme if the line were to run forward of the rail cap (end?) to the cleat. That option simply can't be correct. Notice that there's no cleat directly above the inboard part of the cathead! In this photo (Photo 2), supplied by Mustafa, there's an extra cleat! and a metal plate for the anchor line to rest on. But no topgallant rail and no hammock net. Looking back at the photo of my build (Photo 3), It appears that I do have the room to add that extra cleat, exactly where it appears in photo 2. Of course then I'd have to add a metal plate to protect the main rail. As an aside, and before anyone points out the obvious, I also have to add the end caps for the topgallant rails. Unfortunately, when fitting them, I discovered that my main rails aren't the required 3/16" width there. So, the laser cut caps with the engraved artwork can't be used. To get them to fit, I'd be trimming into the engraving. So, no art work for me, unless I get creative.. Plenty to ponder over the remaining holidays. and that includes figuring out how to rig the anchor line as it appears in Photo 2. Thanks again gentlemen!

I thought the exact same thing, but that's the way that Bob Hunt rigged it, so I assumed there was some good reason for this. Also, I have the top gallant rails, where you do not. It makes less sense to route the anchor line just forward of the rail. I tried that first. I think in a previous post, I asked myself whether I should remove the top gallant rails, since they were not present on the current day Constitution. For good or ill, I chose to follow (for the most part) the Hunt method. If I ever build another one, the lessons I've learned on this one will go a long way.. Thank you. By the way, I just looked at your build log again, you continue to amaze.

Starboard anchor rigged, after adding the overlooked cleats.

Excellent advice!

All, I can say is, Wow!

Man - oh - man! I wonder how many days it would take me to clean and organize my shipyard. I love your, a place for everything, and everything in its place approach to your workspace. In particular the small hand tool organizer you have on the wall above the bench. I'm tempted to take a few days off to follow your lead. Thanks for sharing and the inspiration.. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year

Gregg, Was the wow because I was baking Christmas cookies for the Admiralty? 😁 Either way, Thank you! and Merry Christmas to one and all, Peter

The old gray cells, they ain't what they used to be. It wasn't until I was looking for the cleat to tie the anchor rope to, that I realized I didn't have any. Somehow, I only installed cleats at the stern half of the model. So, yet another delay in finishing up the hull. I did sort of enjoy stropping hooks to two triple blocks, nothing like a stroll down memory lane.. But, I'm calling it quits for now, going home to bake Christmas cookies. (In part, because I also learned that I forgot to stain the bulk of the cleats. I remedied that just now. Since it will take a while for those to dry as well, I'm off to do help the Admiralty with holiday preparations.)

Greetings Mustafa, I returned to my post of April 30, 2024 after someone “reacted” to it today. I was reminded that it was with your encouragement I chose to paint Conny. Thanks again for the nudge in the right direction.

What a wonderful Christmas tradition! Thanks for sharing, and of course, Merry Christmas to you and yours as well. Best DAR

Hi Jon, Shifting my attention to the anchors, and having overlooked your methodology on the installation of rudder chains, I perused your build log first in my research on rigging ideas for the anchors. I seem to remember in another conversation, that you plan to employ three methods of displaying them. Will one of them be XKen’s approach for the bow anchors - lashing them to two brackets just forward of the channels? There seem to be as many options as builders on this. I’m not keen to strop hooks onto Syren triple blocks, so there is some appeal in omitting these altogether. just curious..

Now that I’m looking at the photo, I think I’ll remove a few links from the chain on the port side to even things out. Thanks, Jon

Found the chain, and used copper wire to fashion links with which to affix the chain segments to the eyebolts.

Agreed!

It's academic now, Jon. I just finished rigging the anchor chains. I did revisit your posts 757 through 760, and saw that you tried to stick with the plan. I didn't see me trying to squeeze 5 eyebolts into the inch and a half or so on either side of the rudder. Also, I did like the look of the copper chain after all. I chose to cut the chain into shorter segments with open links at either end and used copper wire to reconnect the segment after passing the wire through the eyebolt. Not too dissimilar to your attaching the chain with thread. It beat the Hunt method which relied on glue to hold the chain into place on the eyebolts. It's amazing how many different ways there are to skin this cat. Tom, I would still appreciate seeing how you skinned yours. Thanks all.

After you’ve completed your state of the Constitution assessment, might I prevail upon you to provide some photos of your rudder and rudder chain assembly? I can’t find a single photo of the aft end of Conny - at least not since you constructed the galleries. (By the way, once again, kudos on your truly excellent workmanship on those). I think I have my general approach thanks to Usedtosail’s build log, but I’m curious how you tackled this. Especially details around the outboard ends of the chains. Did you bury them in holes in the hull? Or just end them at the outboard eyebolts? Thanks

I had to search high and low for a method to deal with the rudder chains, so, once again fired up the way-back machine and found this post from over a decade ago. I had the same issue as you, but hadn’t thought of cutting that skinny chain until I read the above. Fiddly doesn’t begin to describe this process, (I know from attempting to thread copper into the end loops), but I have my direction now. Thanks for posting this little detail. and kudos for providing the index at the beginning of your build log. Merry Christmas.

I know this comment come waaaaaay late, but I think yours is the best example of canopy frames I've seen anywhere at MSW. I love that you managed all of this without solder. Magnificent! I may yet reconsider introducing these to my spar deck, (maybe the icing on the cake after spars and rigging are done.) the small font is my way of weaseling out if I don't.. 😁

Maybe I'll yet find it sitting behind Conny on the workbench ala Jon. I will renew my search on Monday, when I return to the shipyard after being sidelined - yet again, this time by the flu. (shoulda got that shot in November..) This is something I thought I could easily find on Amazon, if I decide I want to pursue it, but nooo! I'll have to order the exact replacement from Model Expo. and that's only in copper. Boy, would I love to get this in gold! I do like shiny things..

Misery loves company. Thanks for sharing and putting a smile on my face this morning, Jon.

Slow going on finishing up the rudder. When I started working on the starboard side, I realized that the rudder was narrower than the stern post on that side. So, I had to chisel away enough material to render the rudder flush with the stern post. That meant applying a new coat of stain, which took a day to cure. Then more poly needed to be applied. I also lost one of the gungeons. I spent a half hour sweeping everything within 10 ft of my chair in the workshop, and cleaned everything off the work table, but couldn't find it. I'm sure it will turn up - someday.. 😁 Then I fashioned the chain iron out of another strip of brass. I'm debating on whether or not to invest in a Dremel to make the part the chain fits through narrower. But perhaps not. As Gregg said, no one is going to be peeking through the glass on the display case with a magnifying glass.. On page 63 in chapter 12 of the practicum, Hunt says that the kit comes with three different sizes of chain. "You will use the smallest size", he says. The parts list that came with the Constitution does indeed indicate that the kit comes with three different size chains, but I can only find two. Interestingly, the chain pictured on page 64 of the practicum looks to be the middle sized one, which is the smaller of the two I have. Since I have eye bolts of different sizes, I could use this and be done with the rudder. To those of you who have done this, did you in fact have the 42 link per inch chain, part number WP0516 in the kit? And, did you paint it black, as Hunt instructs, but doesn't demonstrate? Once again, in the photos I see that some cleanup will be required.

I absolutely love the Fokker DR I, gorgeous. I'm sure it won't take you long to figure out where you left off with Conny, but from what I see, it seems you're ready to tackle the spars and rigging. Welcome back

Will do!

Coming from you, that is high praise indeed! Thank you kindly. As far as "clean" is concerned, zooming in on the photos above, I see some glue residue that needs to be scraped off before I cover all with poly.. Thanks again.

Not so much a case misreading, as a misunderstanding - "I made mine moveable strictly as a challenge of my skills. Once my model is in its display case, my rudder won't move either. " I was just curious how much you had challenged your skills. Happy St Nicholas Day all..