Der Alte Rentner

As a long time woodworker favoring natural finishes, I just hate the thought of giving up, but I think I must reluctantly agree with you on this Mustafa. I'm going to spend a few hours at the shipyard just staring at Conny to see if I can't convince myself to make the switch. One thing I won't like to do, if I change directions, is to prime and paint the galleries. I assembled them the way I did so that I had nice clean demarcations between contrasting colors. In a worst case scenario, I'd have to remake the pilasters and windows. Ugh.. Stay tuned..

So, now I have to ask myself, would I rather switch to black so that I can use styrene for the molding and scroll work later? Stain applied, but need to wait 24 hours to clear coat.. Boy, do I wish I'd used better wood for the planking. It would have been nice to not have to stain at all. Oh well, this is a learning experience.

I was wondering if you were going to bother with those rivets. Frankly I think you've stumbled on a more elegant and nicer looking solution. More detail than I'm prepared to go through, but as usual, you've added the Masters touch. Kudos.

Okay, here goes. Staining begins (in baby steps).. Speaking of baby steps, I'm using Q-tips, the pointy kind, as well as the standard ones, to apply and remove the stain. I tried brushes, they are problematic at least around the gun deck ports. I might resort to a brush for the bottom of the hull.

Ausgezeichnet!

Thanks for the offer, but with that long a turn around time, I'll just soldier on with old school techniques, or invest in the learning curve to print my own stuff.

If you're that handy with a printer, could you build the windows for the galleries with a printer? Also, where do you get the detailed information to input to the printer to get these results?

Pretty much done. Some fine tuning still required, but the hard work, at least on these galleries, is done. Note, everything is still unglued. I'll hold off just a bit while I figure out the best way to go about staining the hull. Also, looking ahead, I see that fashioning the two bottom moldings beneath the gallery windows and crossing the transom is going to take some thought as well. I see now that a black hull with white trim lends itself to working with styrene in this area. I've got some work ahead of me here my friends.. And before anyone asks, yes, I did try various stains and paints on the styrene. None of the results looked better than keeping it white, at least for me. A tad more construction detail. The port side gallery.

I'm refining the process for making the windows. The next time I do this, things will go a little faster. 😁 1. Make a paper template to fit the space. 2. Transfer the shape to another piece of paper. 3. Add guide lines for the central rail and styles. (I took the previous photo after I had added the guide lines.) 4. Add double sided tape. 5. Cut styrene for outside edges. Test the fit with the paper template. 6. Use double sided tape to transfer the pattern to plexiglass for the window. 7. Cut the window. (Note: pattern still attached to plexiglass.) 8. Test fit the window. 9. Take the wife to city hall to vote. 10. Return to the shop another day to form the rest of the window.

Getting closer..

I wish I could recall exactly where I saw it, but in the last week or two, I read somewhere that these canopy frames could be omitted. I thought I saw a note in the copy of the plans I have at the Shipyard, but since I have a second set at home, I thought I'd make sure my memory was not faulty. Sadly, the old grey cells, they ain't what they used to be. The plans themselves don't seem have this note in them. The instructions for the kit say to omit them if they are too difficult to fabricate, but that's not the note I SWEAR I saw. 😕 I must admit they do look nice when done right. So, go for it Jon. The only thing I can think to contribute to the conversation at this point is to see if you can't find a really sharp pointed tool, like an awl, and poke a divot into the brass rod - use the awl like a center punch. But given the materials you're dealing with here, this may be equally as challenging. Slow and steady is indeed the way to go with drilling, if the center punch technique works. Good luck!

Your workmanship here rivals XKen. Kudos.

Port side. Rinse, repeat.. I forgot how much effort went into making and shaping the filler and roof blocks. Hoo boy.

Because I'm still working on the galleries, I paid particular attention to yours and am awestruck by how nicely they turned out. Excellent workmanship!

That is an interesting approach. Don't you risk cutting into the sills with this technique?

Es kann sein, dass die Kanonen nicht zu hoch sind, nur dass einige von ihnen leicht nach oben geneigt sind. Vielleicht könnten Sie kleine Keile unter das innere Ende der Kanonen stecken? (translated using Translate Google)

I went with wood. And the parts are still separate, so I can use them as templates for the port side.

I found my drum sander indispensable. I hadn't thought of employing an inclined table. That trick will be added to my tool box for future reference. Excellent suggestion.

I'm not sure I understand. Will you be giving the ship the book? or using the picture in your presentation case? Beautiful workmanship. Sehr Schön!

gerade? oder Schief?

A man after my own heart! Welcome aboard. I think you will find the Constitution (USS or Frigate) an interesting challenge, especially since you're opting for the 1797 edition and departing from the norm, given the overall preference here for the black and white hull painting scheme. By all means, showcase your woodworking skills! From what I see of the Pegasus above, I think you'll do splendidly. Looking forward to following your progress.

Just a sharp xacto knife and fine tweezers. Experiment a bit with the solvent, which basically melts the styrene to form the bond. Go easy on it. Superglue will affix styrene to wood. I've tried both super glue and the solvent to attach plexiglass to the styrene. I had better results with the solvent. But again, go super easy with it and experiment a little first. I look forward to see how you fare with this. Good luck P.S. I assumed that you would know what I meant by "solvent". The Hunt Practicum specified "using Plastruct Plastic Weld solvent," in Chapter 7 page 22. Hunt states that you "touch the joints using a paint brush dipped into the solvent. Capillary action will suck the solvent into the joints and in a few minutes, fuse the pieces to each other."

Thank you gentlemen. Your kind words are greatly appreciated. That 3rd window proved to be a challenge, but also an opportunity. On my first pass with the styrene, I glued the center post between the bottom and the top on the frame, per the Hunt method. Doing so made fashioning a well fitting window pane more difficult than it needed to be. Because I once again screwed up (new rule, measure FOUR times, cut once), I remade that third window, this time after putting together the four edges, I fitted the glass. Then I added the upright and cross members of the frame. As a bonus, the solvent did a nice job of afixing the glass to the frame. I didn't get a picture of the process for the third window, second pass, but at this point in the process, I fitted the window pane. I made sure the 15 additional pieces of styrene covered the original butt joints. This made for a very solid window frame. I also am really becoming fond of the finish that I've chosen and, I know I'm going against the grain here but I can't help myself. One coat of clear finish has been applied to everything from the bottom sill up. Note nothing has yet been glued in place. When I do glue the window frames in, they should sit a little further back and look a tad better. I'm enjoying this photograph for today. Tomorrow I decide whether or not I'm going to add the trim above and below the pilasters or to move to the port side and come back to finish that later. (Yes, he's stalling again, trying to decide whether those trim pieces should be made out of wood or styrene. I'm leaning toward wood. 😁 ) Have a nice weekend all.

Hear hear! You are setting the standard Mustafa. Bravo!

Having given much thought to the process of constructing the windows, I have gone back to the Bob Hunt methodology and am quite pleased with the result. I was just going to say that I had to give some thought to how I would finish the window frames. Then I realized I glued the plexiglass to the back of the frame. Either I'm going to leave the frames white, or go back and reconstruct this one, and before adding the glass on all of them, prime and paint some color approximating the natural Basswood. Practice makes perfect. Here are the steps that got me to the end result.