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PvG Aussie

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Posts posted by PvG Aussie

  1. It's coming together! (Thanks for all the likes and comments)

     

    Yesterday I added decals to the hull and conning tower, using "Tamiya Mark Fit'. Tricky because of the debth decal sizes but I am very pleased as they look great.

    31.Decals.jpg.0c6cfc6a020cac7fb50e12df3ab1e347.jpg

     

    The next job was to nervously start the weathering. I mixed two rust colours using a combination of Vallejo German Orange, Artesania Latina Hull Red, Royal Blue and Deep Yellow. The colours are ok, but I think I want to add a black, grey or brown wash to give an overall aging appearance and play down the possibly excessive weathering on the port side air tanks.

    32.Weathering.jpg.fbc5201ac5b4151d91bbe94d20e49254.jpg

     

    A Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color (of 1/1 Black/Grey) also added a little extra but is not very noticeable. I think the straight black would be too dark.

    33.WeatheringConningtower.jpg.6acee9559f9808c099ec9d728b76a516.jpg

    34.Deckfit.jpg.27f1f71e47cdab1bd0b0a3841feecccf.jpg

     

    Cheers, Peter

     

     

     

  2. Another great day!

    • I had fun with kit and aftermarket 'tubes'. The fit required cutting and sanding but it did work out. (The black one is for engine exhaust, and the grey one is an air intake.)
    • The underside parts of the deck were then added.
    • I started on the coning tower and dry fitted it to the deck to check the fit. Obviously it isn't weathered yet, maybe tomorrow.
    • I'm happy with the look of the deck so it may not be long before I glue it onto the hull (ok Javelin?😉).

    Cheers,

    26. Tubes 0.jpg

    26. Tubes1.jpg

    27. CT 1.jpg

    28. CT 2.jpg

    29. Deck.jpg

    30. Deck 2.jpg

  3. Thanks for the likes and comments.

    The biggest danger with weathering is 'going overboard' (excuse the pun), so I think I will clear spray, hair spray and final German Grey spray the deck again. I made the error of weathering without letting the top coat dry properly and I washed off too much. Thanks for your thoughts.

  4. A great day!

    Firstly, I glued the two halves of the hull together. It was a bit of a challenge and it took me an hour and a half! I'm happy with the result.

    Secondly, I dry fitted the deck and it was excellent.

    Thirdly, I weathered the deck with hair spray and a top coat of Vallejo German Grey. It is meant to look like tar brushed over timber decking. The result looks a bit grubby but that may have been how it was. Feedback would be appreciated as I may have over weathered it.

    Thanks for all the 'likes' and comments. I thoroughly enjoy checking them first thing in the morning.

    18. Two halves make a whole!.jpg

    19. Deck 1.jpg

    20. Deck 2.jpg

  5. Some old people like to talk about their illnesses. I Don't! Just say that I didn't do any modelling yesterday and I only started late today. But what a great afternoon it was.

    My PE parts arrived today and I primed them. Also I masked and painted the light grey areas of the hull (Weathering will have to wait). It was a pleasing few hours.

    Ps. Thanks for all the 'likes' and special greetings to those that are 'following' me.

    11. PE.jpg

    12. Mask Upper Hull.jpg

    13. Hull.jpg

  6. I think I'm reasonably happy with today's results. 

    I firstly gave the hull another coat of Ljn Gray as the lighter grays underneath looked too light this morning.

    Next I started playing with the algae look by adding SMS RAAF Dark Slate which I applied with a hard brush. Then followed this with a larger brush wash with the same paint. I also started on the deck 'timber look' which I intend covering with hair spray and a very dark grey or even black so that I can weather walking areas to show the timber underneath.

    I'm not sure, but I think the green and timber look ok.

     

    8. Green brush.jpg

    9. Timber Deck.jpg

  7. I'm happy with today's effort eventhough my air brush played up badly with the low pressure required. So today I:

    1. Masked the lower hull for painting.

    2. Cut the hull pieces from the sprue because I didn't want to do 'fiddly bits' on big pieces. (NB: Scottish Guy!)

    3. Did the first spot marbeling on the hull and tank tops. Used Tamiya Sky Grey XF-19 and 20A Thinner, (1:2), Retarder Medium at 10psi.

    4. Did the second spot marbeling using Tamiya Sky Grey XF-19, Flat White XF-2 and 20A Thinner, (1:1:2), RetarderMedium at 10psi.

    5. Applied the final coat of Tamiya Lijn Gray XF-77 at 20psi.

    6. Applied a clear coat of 'rattle can' Tamiya Flat Clear TS-80.

    Next time, I think I may add panel liner as well as stencil some tiny patches of a lighter colour onto the lower hull.

    3. First marbeling.jpg

    4. Second Marbeling.jpg

    5 Final coat.jpg

    6. Final Coat.jpg

  8. Micha, I did it this way because I find it easier to handle the parts while still on the sprues. There is no real problem with cut marks later on as it is only the primer and there are plenty of opportunities to paint the 'missed bits' later. I will probably do the same for the next stage so as to avoid getting my fingers in the way.

    Stay tuned for tomorrow's report, I'll let you know if I change my mind.

    Cheers, Peter

  9. I've started!

    Today I:

    1. Gave up on waiting for parts in the mail.

    2. Slip proofed the walk areas on the top of the tanks. I used an old brush and Tamiya Putty and cleaned the edge with Tamiya Lacquer Thinner. I tried Tamiya Surface Primer but the effect was not textured enough. I am very pleased with the result.

    3. Primed everything! What was grey is now black (SMS Surfacer Black).

    Tomorrow I will start weathering the lower hull by 'black basing and lighter marbeling'.

    1 Non-slip.jpg

    2. Primer.jpg

  10. Sorry to see that you are experiencing the same issues as I had with the AL Focker DR1. The most difficult parts for me were the cowling on the top of the forward structure. The metal pieces just don't fit!

    Be thankful because you are near completion and the bits you may have 'not got right' won't be noticed anyway.

    Nevertheless, you are doing a great job, under difficult circumstances!

  11. Our show is in February so if you want me to put your name down, just let me know. You are welcome to stay here among the ships and planes. This year was my first time in a regional competition and I won 'Best Ship', 'People's Choice' and 'Best of Show' with my 1/48 scale "Bounty- after the mutiny". These awards were a great surprise as I have only been modelling for a bit over two years.

    I checked out your ships and they are truly amazing.

    Cheers

  12. I always like to start with plenty of research on the history of the boat and then any builds done by others.

    History is covered by heaps of sites on the internet as well as the enclosed book found in the kit.

    As far as previous builds are concerned, I have found the following: https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=-z9T2yxpHAghttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IFrmrMl7JoUhttps://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235123886-progress-build-of-das-werks-172-scale-sm-u-9-german-wwi-u-boat/ (this last link has a great history coverage as well as a 'box opening'), and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5A9IBHt-zAE (this link has three parts: build, painting and weathering. Quite useful.)

    I'll now watch all of these and make notes on ideas I like and possible decisions I will have to make along the way.

    Cheers,

     

  13. At long last I have finished this model. After all the cutting, grinding and reshaping I have finally managed to put the pieces of this jigsaw together (approx 150 hours). 

    I would NOT recommend this kit to anyone unless you are good with metals as many of the pieces simply don't fit and you have to settle for second rate joins or try and modify the diecast and PE pieces.

    Looking at the images, it has come up reasonably good as it is difficult to see the problem sections!

    Above.jpg

    Fokker Dr1 1.jpg

    Fokker Dr1 2.jpg

    Fokker Dr1 3.jpg

    Fokker Dr1 4.jpg

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