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Scottish Guy

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Everything posted by Scottish Guy

  1. Looks pretty neat Simon. Well done. I didn´t have that much success but even I got a bit further with my build. In picture 5, does it just look like or are the two right lines twisted in the upper part (close to the outrigger)? Like I said before, I´m not an expert on rigging or ratlines but does it matter if it would be twisted or is it easy enough to un-twist it? Micha
  2. As long as it doesn´t turn into an infestion it is cool ^^ 🤣 nice detail to be honest... A fantastic work you have done here... I really love it. Looks good. Micha
  3. I know what you say, I got my thoughts about it as well. I don´t really cry for the glue or paints and the 1959 kit comes without sails anyway. It also is missing any metal parts which came just wtht he 1969 kit. It´s more likely the price. The kit is not complete but the guy wants GBP 89.00 for it. That is the point why I´m so relcutant. If the kit would be complete (even if useless) I would pay it but not for a kit that is not even complete. After all the thinking I tend anyway to buy a wooden model (most likely the Sergal kit, even if I´m eyeing with the Billing Boats kit as well). I would do a lot of my own stuff anyway. Maybe, when I can get hold of some proper plans even do scratch build. I also still have an offer from a charity for a Revell 2017 kit (complete but the box is damaged and taped) for GBP 60.00. SO yes, not sure what to do but atm I´m more drawn to a wooden kit than a plastic kit. Micha
  4. Thank you for that Rob, haven´t seen one of those for ages. I had one once but don´t know where it is gone but tbh, I didn´t use it much, the good old hand work with a hammer and a small anvil did the job all the times. Micha
  5. I´m happy for you, I still can´t get hold of it, at least not for a reasonable price atm. If I want to spend USD 200 it`s fine but I´m not willing to spend that much atm for a book, I would rather spend it in a new kit or some tools (I still have to fill up the garage with some nice tools ^^ ) Micha
  6. I can tell you, the instructions read sometimes as a Chinese instruction, translated by a Japanese who is originated in India and then tried to let his French wife translate it. (Sorry for the rant but I would have expected at least a proper instruction manual, but these few pages, not even in order properly and mist likely only copies is a bit disappointing. But I go on with it... challenge accepted Thank you for that kind words Eric. Gives me a boost but yes, challenge accepted, I don´t like giving up, some tell me it´s my crux, I think it´s a gift. I think it depends on the point of view lol but my grandpa told me all the time, when there is a will there is a way... you just have to find it... Micha
  7. That is what I tried to tell you in my very complicated way lol 🤣 hope you can forgive me. I have seen myself some really bad weather conditions on a 38 ft sail boat and it wasn´t a pleasure at all. That´s why it took me another 4 yrs before I did the 2nd Atlantic crossing and not yet dared the Pacific or a circumnavigation since the Pacific is much rougher than the Atlantic. But I still adore your dedication to help this guy out with his dreams / wish. My deepest respect for that. Micha
  8. Welcome at MSW and nice work so far. Looking forward to see the progress on this one. For the colours of the masts? There are different colour schemes I think since the masts even have been replaced over time. Here is a picture by Prayash Panthi from the current Cutty Sark in Greenwich at the museum. This is just rebuild after burnt down twice so if the colour scheme they used is acurate? I don´t know. But when you search in the LOGs you can find some really well done jobs of the Cutty Sark in different styles, plastic and wood and even scratch builds. Depends on your preference tbh. Maybe one of the best builds here from Bruma Micha
  9. Hi Ryan and welcome aboard at MSW. Hope you will archive what you planned to archive and have fun... Micha
  10. Wood should always be stored in a dry and well temperated (aired) area, you can even stock it outside, as long as it is under a roof and aired. But I personally (since we work with much smaller scales and sizes) keep my stock in the garage (fortunately it is heated and is easy to access by a door from my utility room). I most likely have plywood or other wood sheets of 2x1 ft or maximum 3x2 ft in different thickness (2 - 6 mm) so easy to store, the thicker ones I separate with little sticks so they don´t touch each other, the smaller sheets 300 x 210 mm I store in a little shelf in my room, i don´t separate them or anything, just like paper stacks I stack them in the shelf. I don´t like the wood outside because it starts getting wavy and sometimes even soften up because of the moist. Micha
  11. That is exactly my issue right now. By the same mould used I would say the earlier the better, but what about parts included. I know that the 1959 kit came with glue and paints but as it looks without any metal parts and only the ratlines, no other ropes. The 1969 kit should have gotten the metal parts but not the lines and got rid of the glue and paints. I don´t know what to do, at the end of the day, I would love the 1959 kit, I would have changed some aprts anyway with more detailed parts, like the deck and chains. But the price of that model is way too high for all the missing items and condition of the box. Micha
  12. Thank you for that Steven, I like that one, positioned correctly on the ship it looks maybe really good. There is a way to do it, leaning against the mast for example. Really cool, thank you. I get your point here lol and yes, drinking that way would be a bit... "wet" but hey ho as a sailor it always is wet hahaha Micha
  13. I just found out that the kit that is offered to me is NOT complete. The cement (which will be long outdated) and the paints are missing. Also the wooden stand is missing. I asked the seller for a discount, never got an answer back... therefore it won´t be the 1959 kit. I also realised that the 1969 and even better the 1974 model has added parts like metal chains and proper ropework. Micha
  14. What do you mean by that? If they added new parts it means it has more than the 2017 therefore I would always prefer the old one. Also the moulds are still in use. Meaning the 2017 model is still made in the original moulds which should be worn out somehow. I´m torn between to buy or get a 2017 model but I heard that some folks are pretty unhappy with the 2017 model kit. Especially quality wise and about the parts itself, not clean and lots of not well conected parts. Micha
  15. I agree with you David, the EZE tissue looks interestingly intriguing, I ordered a bag to have a look at it. For later maybe... and I love dogs but I feel sorry for you that the dog got hold of it and... destroyed it? To be honest, I like the ship wreck, looks interesting. If you paint it porperly you could put it into a nice small diorama, somehow stranded on a beach? I like that idea... Micha
  16. Very well done Bob, looks amazing. I have no doubt that doing the coils will be an easy job for you Micha
  17. Hello and welcome aboard here at MSW. I would go with Chris for the first layer planking. For the second layer I would use maybe rubber bands around the hull or cord strings. If you don´t have clamps that fit around the hull. Micha
  18. Hello and welcome aboard here at MSW. Hope you will have fun on your journey and we don´t bite ^^ Micha
  19. Hi David, that is something I would have considered from the beginning for the Cutty Sark, I think the plastic sails look ridiculous, even if you would paint them properly with weathering and aging, they still look odd. Don´t be reluctant, listen to your wifey (they often are right even if we don´t like it ^^)... Micha
  20. Thank you Paul, I might consider a new board with blocks to secure the molds and turn the ship upside down. Sounds more logical than everything else. If the molds will be removed afterwards I´m not certain if I should glue the ribs in already or atatch them just after the planking is done? But yes, I will throw the "jig" away and build an upside down construction where I use blocks to secure the molds (after making sure they all end up in the same height so the ship will be flush on the board. Maybe I even cut out some new moulds from plywood sheets, should be more stable than extensions. Again, thank you for the advise, I also will have a look at your build. Micha
  21. Thank you for that idea Eric, sounds somehow reasonable and I agree, much easier to archive. The scene sounds even really cool when I´m honest... will give it a go, but first I have to finish the ship ^^ Micha
  22. Very well done so far... impressive work and set up. Looking forward to see the rest of your journey. Micha
  23. Hi @bdgiantman2, I doubt that Calvin ever will read this since he hasn´t been online for 10 yrs. I started to check if folks of older threads are still online or I don´t even start liking anything nor reply to their posts. Micha
  24. Like I said, I´m not an expert in ratlines or rigging yet but that`s how I would have done it anyway. Sounds logical to me at least. I´m confident you will make it properly and it will work out fine. I´m still fighting my Roar Ege from Billing Boats lol... Micha
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