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Scottish Guy

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Everything posted by Scottish Guy

  1. I definitely wouldn´t store finished models in the cold garage. I would keep them in a dry and temperated area. Not heated but temperated above zero. Like I stated before, I would keep wood anyways in a temperated space, not heated maybe but like I said, above zero at least so they don´t get moistured by the damp and steam. Micha
  2. Thank you Paul, will give it a go later today. I hope they don´t have their own mind - I would hate that, but yeah, will check it out and maybe attach the bigger ones like 7A / 7F and 5A / 5F. Might give the planking even a bit more stability, it´s a bit wobly between the molds. Micha
  3. Sounds like a really good way to do it as well Allan. Thank you for that idea. I mean, I did it a few times with other wood working stuff but never thought about the tiny stuff to do it with a scalpel for example. Micha
  4. * Chapter Four * The Planking is my Crux or How a Plan might not work out Since I couldn’t make out a proper jig for upside down frame (spine with the molds) I misused two cans of my preferred beverage (hope everyone will forgive me, especially the manufacturer of the drink). I´m not sure why Billing Boats has chosen this strange way to put the planks onto the sheets the way they did but it doesn’t make sense to me and a proper description how to put the planks on is not existing at all. There is no understandable reason why all planks except one are put on the sheets in the same way around, except the first (starting plank which immediately is attached to the spine) is the opposite way around. So I cut it out, turned it around and glued it to the frame (even if I’m not sure it’s the right way around now), at least the end quoted as F is now glued to the end of the spine stated with the F. The next plank is the way round it’s quoted in the plan, F to F and A to A. Which somehow make the first plank looking a bit odd. Don’t know, I just go on right now. I would appreciate if someone notices a fault or wrong doing to mention it to me so I might be still able to change it now before it’s way to late to change anything. Thank you guys for being my eyes here ^^ Micha
  5. Thank you Frank, still a bit reluctant to buy the 1959 kit, maybe I try to make an offer. I´m still torn between plastic and wood. I would prefer wood but the plastic model seems also convenient. Micha
  6. I still have thr 1959 kit in the queque but I´m also still reluctant since the seller says the kit would be complete even if the pictures say it is not. Therefore I think the GBP 89.00 / USD 110.00 he asks for are a bit high since I have a 2021 kit (with receipt) for GBP 65.00 / USD 81.00 which is complete but the box is badly dented and ragged on one corner. I really don´t know if I not just save up and buy a wooden model instead. How do you think is the quality of the hull. Folks told me the quality even after that long time is amazing but the accuracy of the model details itself are a bit weird? Have to correct myself, mine is the Revell Cutty Sark 1:96 not the Alabama... but the age and that it is one of the first injection moulds for the model (Revell just launched the 1:96 in 1959). Micha
  7. I use a nail fail (the flexible ones) for things like that. I cut them out, lay them flat onto a surface and gentle use the nail fail to file things like the oars (or in my case the small ribs). You need to fix the oar very firm with your hand at the spot where you intent to file. Otherwise use sanding sticks (they come most likely in a sortiment of different grits) because they are very flexible themselves so you can´t put too much force in smaller things or they just break. But that´s how I do smaller things, gentle, with patience and always a firm grip on the spot you want to file down. Keith idea also sounsd very good, to try to shape them already while they are still in sheet. Micha
  8. Good morning David. Told you, one of the best and amazing looking Cutty Sarks I´ve ever seen. Just stunning and well done. Micha
  9. WOW... I´m speechless and impressed. Sorry for the late response, I´m back to work after six month being home because of an injury. So my build will be slow down now a bit... but really impressive, really. Micha
  10. I received today “Plank-on-Frame Models” Vol.1 and 2 by H.A. Underhill. The dust cover looks a bit rotten but the books itself are still in a good condition. It’s the 4th print from 1968 (same age as me lol) and they were only GBP 7.90 both together. I think that’s a fair price. I hope they will become a good source of knowledge and inspiration. Micha
  11. I store bigger prints always in paper shipping tubes (can´t afford one of the drawer units for A1 prints like architects have). Is a good way to store them and to protect them. Folded plans often get damaged because of the kinks where it is folded, rolled into a tube this can´t happen and they last longer. Micha
  12. Welcome aboard Eric, nice to have you here on MSW. Micha
  13. Hi Simon, I was more lucky than you then hehe, we had here a pod of orcas last year and twice basking sharks. Seals we have even in the harbour, especially when the fishermen come home, I think they wait that some falls into the harbour basin. I guess so but still can´t afford those. Same with Vanguard, just not my league and tbh... I don´t even think my skill level yet. I´m happy when I finish my Roar Ege and it looks somehow fair and not completely wasted. About your ratlines, I hope you know that your jig is cheating hehe, nah, looks amazing. You are doing a really good job there Simon. I really like and enjoy watching your LOG. Unfortunately I returned to work today (after 6 month of being ill) so my building might slow down a bit now. Micha
  14. I always sprayed the parts before attaching them, so I would spray a deck before attaching it to the hull, means some points you might have to sand again to have a rough surface to give the glue some grip but that`s how I did it with all my space ships. ABout the colour, I prefer matte instead of gloss. Especially with wood I would use matte, never have seen shiny wood to be honest. But that is just my humble opinion. Micha
  15. Hi Bob, that´s quiet a collection. I´m not even close to this amount of books. I have some but not that many and not those specific books for model building. I think I have to start my own little "library". Thank you for sharing. Micha
  16. Thank zou for that answer Phil, I found a supplier here in the UK that sells Excel blades. He sells the kit I want even cheaper than Amazon. I ordered it, should only take 5 days till it arrives Micha
  17. I agree with you Bob, a picture would be helpful. But I think he´s talking baout a boat like that (even if you can´t see the hull properly on that picture. There have been model ships sold as Hartman Bunker Boat which were based on the Menhaden Fishing Trawler (1900 - 1920) The USCG used those as well as. There is a Wikipedia Log for the SP-328 USS Margaret which is also based on a Menhaden Fishing Trawler (1912-1919). I guess hes talking about one of those. But since we can´t see the hull I just don´t know exactly what he want´s to know, therefore I can´t provide any help. Micha
  18. Good luck with that, I´m just not a fan from the plastic sails. I have seen a model today (I visited the charity shop that sells the Revell kit) and I just don´t like the plastic sails. But this is a decision everyone has to make themselves. I know that most folks don´t use them, so maybe when painted and weathered properly, acurately cut out they might look good. It´s just my personal choice and decision... you can give it a go anyway, if you then don´t like it you still can change to fabric or the EZE sheets. Micha
  19. Thank you Bob, I need all the kind words right now as a boost . I didn´t expect it that complicated (but my own fault, to chose the wrong kit from the wrong manufacturer) but I love the challenge, keeps my brain working and fresh lol I will try my best to make it a nice and good looking model but I don´t make nay promises Micha
  20. Let me say that I like the anchor hanging in there. Looks so cool. The entire ship is just an amazing piece of work. Looks beautiful. Kudos to you. I bow my head and wish that my builds come out hopefully at least half the way yours does. Micha
  21. That´s why we live in a small fishing village just outside of Elgin. I love it here, three minutes walk to the harbour and both beaches (east and west beach). I love walking down there, watching dolphins passing by (sometimes not even three meter from the quay) and the fishing boats going out. JUst listening to the waves is sooo soothing... and the smell... That might be but I´m not sure if they offer any of the ships I would like to build and with Vanguard I´m pretty sure I can´t afford those right now. Syren I never found to be honest. Tried a couple of times to find a set but can´t find a homepage from the manufacturer. Micha
  22. * Chapter Four * Change of Plan - The Jig needs Adjustments Since you good folks suggested I should turn the ship around to put the planking on I needed another approach for my self made (crappy) jig. I took two sticks and took the molds (4 and 6A / 6F) off the spine again. Then I glued the molds in a 90 degree angle to the sticks, beginning from the center mold (4), waited till dried up then glued on mold 6A again in 90 degree angle and the required 73 mm from part 4. After this was dried I glued mold 6F also 73 mm from part 4 onto the 2 sticks. After everything was dried up I checked the distances between the molds on the sticks and on the bottom (in real on the top). Then I put the molds 9A and 9F loose onto the sticks in 103 mm each from molds 6A and 6F. Since they will bend the beam slightly I didn’t glue those on, I just wanted to make sure the beams are not too short. Then I attached the entire skeleton onto the spine in the jig. Put the molds 9A and 9F in place and pressed the skeleton in place with the molds clasping onto the spine with the catches on the bottom. Mold 4 fits in snuggly onto the mast support and keeps the skeleton secured in place. Now I have to build a jig or block that lifts the entire build up enough that the stem and stern are not touching the ground. That will be my next step, so that I can turn the entire build upside down to put the planking on. Micha
  23. Got you, should start learning stuff like that myself sailing ships are different to space ships (they don´t have rigging or masts) but I´m looking forward to it. I always loved sail boats / ships / yachts. Hence why I started sailing and windsurfing. I loved the two Atlantic crossings and would like to do one more or even a circumnavigation before I hit 80... But yeah, I really have to learn about rigging and ratlines myself. Since my scratch build of the HR 50 / 57 has to be postponed till I found a solution for creating the hull I might start with a Cutty Sark or the build as Ferreira and with a Barquantine rigging (looks really interesting). Micha
  24. Sorry, but my eyes are not the best any more, was not sure if you tied them up already or if they all are just kept in place for the moment. So it´s not a big deal anyway. Cool. But looks really nice Micha
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