fifthace
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Thanks Rich. I looked at that one but I think the difference in scale will be too great. The Vic is 1:72- 1,319 replies
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ahh ok Kevin...mine will remain sailess then...I couldn't stitch sails from scratch even if I wanted to lol
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Kevin I am wondering, did you ever look into a sail set for this? I've had a look but can't find any at the correct scale so thought perhaps as you've been working on yours for longer you may have looked into it already? Is it worth me looking or is there no options at this scale ?
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So far I've been able to get the first planking done on the launch. Was a few annoying gaps that I couldn't seem to close, but I can deal with those later. I did end up having to use one stealer at the bow, which I detest having to do, although again, first planking so can get away with it and it's barely visible on the inner surface. Gave a light sande and coated with watered down PVA to seal the planks 2nd layer to do now, and then an attempt at removing the frames...
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Thanks Sid, that will most likely be the route I follow. Paul I will check it out thanks. Cheers Boyd. I don't know if I will be able to bring anything new to the CC Vic builds, or even come close to matching qaulity of some, but will certainly give it a crack
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Well...time to get cracking. I did make a start on the launch. After a slightly confusing session with the parts id manual and the aux craft ribs, I identified and removed the ribs I needed, along with the false deck peice and keel, and the plank term patterns. I dry fitted everything in place, snapping one by mistake, everything was such a snug and tight fit I just left them in place and used watered down PVA to secure everything, with the exception of using cyano gel for the term patterns. I also light cut the tabs of the frames to aid in their removal later. After that had dried for a few hours I prepped 24 pieces of 0.5x3mm walnut for the first planking. I worked out it would be about 11 planks either side, per planking layer. After fairing the frames where needed, which wasn't as much of a challenge as I thought it was going to be given the weakness of the frames, I fixed the first planks in place either side. I spot glued them to make the frames easier to remove later.
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Must admit, I'm puzzled as to what you mean? I don't notice any difference between this kit and any other, in the way it's put together etc...
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Hi Keith. I did look at the Billings kit a while back, but to be honest the plastic content put me off greatly. Which would mean buying after market addons. Didn't see the point really when the CC kit has it all included. Although I was dissapointed at the inclusion of PE helms. Although the relief etiching is pretty good I may end up replacing those ones. Anatomy of Nelson's Ships is the book that I have too Edit: Sorry ignore that bit about plastic, got confused between kits)
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Thanks for the advice guys. Paul, do you have a link for that book, it sounds intreiging. I have a Victory book that I was sent by a friend from Austrailia but it's quite an old one now. Kevin I was looking at the stand last night and to be fair it wouldn't take much to make it into quite an attractive stand. I have enough spare stock to be able to plank it nicely and add a few embellishments... Jonny yes living in Fife does make that tricky, however prior to 2012 I lived in Portsmouth, and I have had the pleasure to set foot upon her decks, along with HMS Warrior. (Which is also on my hitlist, the Billings kit looks quite nice). She is a colossal ship up close, it's hard to appreciate just from photographs. I already have a spraycraft airbrush kit, not aquired a compressor yet I am still making use of canned air, but I've not given it much use so far. (Currently I use it with no bottle attached as a great way of blowing dust off rigging).
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Thanks Kevin haha yeh it looks like a great model until you actually start building it! Yeh all seems complete. Though I wouldn't call it a stand, and to be honest I probably wont end up making use of it as I will be looking at pintle-mounting at an early stage and the bulk of the build will be done on it's final stand. (Once the hull is complete of course). I too will be making use of sprays, and adm paints for the details etc.
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Greetings. I took delivery of this beast earlier today, and it didn't tale me long to crack the seal. I have to admit, I knew this was a large model but maybe underestimated the size of the finished thing...no idea yet where I am going to put it. Anyway, over the years as I shop for kits and try and decide which ones to buy, I make use of other's logs to try and gauge the quality of the kit etc, and although there are a few exceptions I always end up dissapointed that I cannot find any good detailed photo's of the contents OOB, so my first post I will aim to do just that, so that maybe I can help others in the future who find themselves with similar frustrations. Unfortunately this means a lot of photos at first, 32 in fact So here goes: (I've not added photos of the 18, yes 18, plan sheets that are included as I believe that technically that would be classed as reproduction without permission and would infringe on copyright) I've yet to decide where to begin on this one...I kind of get bored of keel and ribs at the start. I've b een thinking about building the launch's and cutters first...although technically that is still keel and ribs
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Been reading through this, great work thus far Kevin. Just ordered this kit myself hoping it will arrive tomorrow...will be using your log for reference
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Thanks. In the end fortune and luck went my way for once and I just ordered the CC kit...and for £100 less than everywhere else
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Hiya, nice build. Am trying to decide on this kit (cost) vs the Caldercraft kit (quality). It's double the price though What's this kit like if build oob ?
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Hiya Dolly. Sorry not replied before now. Yes, I soak the planks fully, bend as needed using Amati's plier-type bender, pin and allow to dry, then remove, glue, repin and allow to dry. Yes the masts will have a slight backward tilt on most ships, known as the "rake". As Paul said it helps counter the force placed upon the masts by the sails in the wind. Hipexec, I've had no problem with the Sapele, I let soak for at least a few hours first before attempting to shape. I've had no issues so far with it. I hope to be resuming work on this soon, thanks to Paul with his advice on the gunports. I shouldn't really be cutting them out at this stage as I have only planked down to just below the waterline, however knowing the issues with the ribs on this I want to get it done now while I can still access the inner hull.
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Hiya Keith. No she is an ongoing partwork. I have about 12 or so issues stocked up so will be resuming work on her soon...getting to the nitty gritty time consuming stuff on her...when I left her I was in the process of blackening and making some chains.
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I am the same Paul I don't often comment on others...usually it's all been said the time I get there. I'd be interested in how you ended up measuring the gunports...I can't even begin properly as there is very little in the way of a clear point of reference on the plans. The entire thing is on hiatus at the moment lest I get annoyed and it incurs my wrath lol
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I believe they are 2mm yes. They were from an old AL vic kit. Stern decs...None. Zero. Zip. I may have to put up with the flat PE ones or try to scratch make some, not a task I relish. This, along with my others is on hold at the moment anyway while I pursue some other projects. Taking a well needed break as I've come across a major issue which I believe Paul came across as well, with marking the gunports. The plans are amazingly vague with nothing I can accurately use as a starting ref point, just going by the plans as is causes the majority of the ports to hit ribs, and we're not talking half a mm either some are smack in the middle...
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Hiya, just a quick photo update on the progress of the planking. Need to do some filling between the planks on the second row of lighter coloured ones...made the silly mistake of glueing whilst wet
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Hiya Dolly. I am not 100% certain of the measurements off hand now, but to work it out I measured the internal width, (inside the frame), deducted the "total" width of the two stair side peices then took 2mm away from that. (The notches are only about 1mm into the sides, though check this as on mine they weren't all even. I've had a busy week or so, so not been able to post an update for a while, however I am quite a way through the planking of the hull so far
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Hi Dolly. It all depends on the kit, the materials being used, the level of curveature etc. I do a lot of dry testing first though. If I think that glue alone isn't going to be enough then I would fit the false deck pieces before planking, to obviously ensure the pins aren't visible. If I feel that glue alone will be enough, my personal experiences tells me about 75% of the time it is, then I would plank off-ship and then glue/clamp. There is no right or wrong answer here, it's down to as I said the kit and the wood and so on...and your own intuition. One example when I was building my aborted DeAg Victory (basically a canibalized AL kit), I found that pinning the decks down was required.
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Good Afternoon. I've been busy the last few days, remaking the cabin walls and have finally finished them I wont go into detail on the process, although have taken step by step photos so you can see the general process I took. They aren't perfect by any stretch but they are a damn sight better than the standard kit. The last photo shows them installed on deck with my own scratch made knees for that bit of extra detail.
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OK small update: The cabin walls/doors I was working on about...I did complete that back wall, and wasn't happy so I've just spent the last hour ripping it all out, as much as I could, and frabricating new false panels to replace the ones damaged as a result, on the plus side they are fitted to my build, not the plans, so take into account subtle differences and so on. Plus, I can work on the cabin walls off-ship which will make it much easier
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Hello. With the main deck in place, next task was to plank the grand cabin walls. Like Paul did on his build, I decided to detail this. I am surprised the kit doesn't provide for detailing this section, I have seen Vic kits at far smaller scales/qaulity/price have this detailing, however crude or innacurate. To start with, I placed the false walls and added some supports for the outer corners behind them. After expermimenting with various wood I had in stock, I started adding the frame work, starting with 6 larger "columns" for the internal/external corners. My detailing wont be strictly accurate but will be as close as I can get at my skill level. Once they were in place I started on the rearmost wall, with the vertical uprights between panels/doors. Then the lowest horizontal beams. I used a thicker wood for the beveled, panels, adding the bevel as best I could. Would have preferred wood the same tone as the rest but as I would be staining it didn't matter a great deal. I've kept to working on one central panel so I could finish one to give me a baseline reference for the rest. I added the centre and upper horizontal beams, and finally the window frame itself. These were literally slivers trimmed delicately off the wood I was using for the frames. Finally, a coat of Admiralty Oak stain. Pics below:
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Well, I always use a flat or satin stain rather than a stain/gloss combination, firstly because one coat is rarely enough to give a decent gloss shine, meaning more coats of the stain is needed increasing the effect of the stain. IE making it darker for example where you may not want it darker. Also using a flat or satin leaves you with the option of adding a gloss topcoat for the shine IF you want it. Where I can, I use a flat or satin stain brushed on and then a clear gloss varnish spray, also from B&Q. If I can't use the spray then just the clear gloss from the same range as the stain. As a rule I would only use these stains on the decks or outer hulls. For smaller detailing I tend to stick with the Admiralty stains and a decent flat brush.
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