Bill Tuttle

If you are not afraid to put a little money in it the Knew Concepts Fret saw in one of the best.  I own three of these in different sizes.  They have received rave reviews from a number of magazines and have a boatload of videos on their website giving instructions on choosing one as well as use and adjustments.  Check them out, I have no affiliation with them other than as a satisfied user.
 
http://www.knewconcepts.com/

If you are not afraid to put a little money in it the Knew Concepts Fret saw in one of the best.  I own three of these in different sizes.  They have received rave reviews from a number of magazines and have a boatload of videos on their website giving instructions on choosing one as well as use and adjustments.  Check them out, I have no affiliation with them other than as a satisfied user.
 
http://www.knewconcepts.com/

If you are not afraid to put a little money in it the Knew Concepts Fret saw in one of the best.  I own three of these in different sizes.  They have received rave reviews from a number of magazines and have a boatload of videos on their website giving instructions on choosing one as well as use and adjustments.  Check them out, I have no affiliation with them other than as a satisfied user.
 
http://www.knewconcepts.com/

My measurements of the Threadneedle Street product:
 
Size           dia.           1/48 dia           1/48 cir.
100/3        0.0088       0.42                 1.3
80/3          0.01           0.48                 1.5
50/3          0.012         0.6                   1.86
30/3          0.019         0.09                 2.8
 
I did not get any 18/3  but from my ropewalk:
20/3          0.025         1.14                 3.6
 
the largest that I have:
8/2 /3       0.059          2.8                   8.9
 
The stock was 8/2 lea  three lines turned up.

Linen can also be found on E-Bay under the name many times of Cuttyhunk or fishing line.  That is usually much larger though but a cleaner form of linen.  I have searched high and low for nice linen without nubs and have been unable to find it in the last ten years of so.  I have reluctantly gone to DMC Cordonnet cotton thread and found it to work nicely in my rope machine.  Good luck!

Linen can also be found on E-Bay under the name many times of Cuttyhunk or fishing line.  That is usually much larger though but a cleaner form of linen.  I have searched high and low for nice linen without nubs and have been unable to find it in the last ten years of so.  I have reluctantly gone to DMC Cordonnet cotton thread and found it to work nicely in my rope machine.  Good luck!

Looks like a great solution for extra storage which I need desperately.  Will check this out, thanks for posting.

Check the local sewing stores and you will find a number of items made for thread pulling that are very helpful.

Check the local sewing stores and you will find a number of items made for thread pulling that are very helpful.

Looks like a great solution for extra storage which I need desperately.  Will check this out, thanks for posting.

Looks like a great solution for extra storage which I need desperately.  Will check this out, thanks for posting.

Looks like a great solution for extra storage which I need desperately.  Will check this out, thanks for posting.

Hi there,
 
I've recently got back into model making.  I've never made a wooden model ship (or any other type for that matter!) My forté was 54mm - 75mm scale figures and dioramas.  However, a 20 year career in the RN left me with a liking for the sea and I'm now part way through an Amati HMAV Bounty (there's "dust" everywhere in my work area at the moment as I'm filling and fairing!) 
When I was modelling before, I had a little compartmentalised "tunrntable" that came from a graphics shop that I once worked in.  I used it for standing a lot of my tools and things in.
The better part of thirty years, umpteen house moves and a couple of kids (now adults) have left my turntable heaven knows where! 
 
So now that I've "returned from the cold', I need some way of storing my modelling tools whilst having them easily to hand.  This will not only keep my workspace clear, but also keep my tools in better condition and keep me from injuring my self on needlepoint sharp kit!
 
I searched everywhere in stationery stores and suppliers, graphic art shops...  Allsorts. Nothing.  So I turned my attention to E-Bay.  Eventually, I found something...  in "Health & Beauty"/"Make Up"/ "Make up tools & accessories"
 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201479390299?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&var=500659444906&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
 
I'm not sure that the full link will show so it was described on E-Bay UK as
"360-degree Spinning Cosmetic Organizer Display Makeup Box Case Cleanup Rotating"
 
It arrived in just a few days and I set to, "adapting it" to my needs.  It's not finished but I have managed to clear a BIG space on my work table!
 
I thought it might work for someone else, so I've posted it here...
 
I hope it helps someone else.

I have to agree with Clare.  There is too much work involved rigging the ship to use a rope that is less than satisfactory.  The cost is insignificant when the work involved enters the equation.  Chuck's rope is beautiful as are his blocks.  Spend a few extra bucks and you will never be sorry.  The rope machine is an easily constructed item and a lot of fun to use.  I built mine about 10 years ago and don't know how I ever got by without it.
 
Good Luck and I hope the arthritis lets up.  I have the same problem with that.

I have to agree with Clare.  There is too much work involved rigging the ship to use a rope that is less than satisfactory.  The cost is insignificant when the work involved enters the equation.  Chuck's rope is beautiful as are his blocks.  Spend a few extra bucks and you will never be sorry.  The rope machine is an easily constructed item and a lot of fun to use.  I built mine about 10 years ago and don't know how I ever got by without it.
 
Good Luck and I hope the arthritis lets up.  I have the same problem with that.

When I was making the blocks for my Clara May project I needed also small 1,4 mm diameter discs. I couldn`t find anywhere suitable ones, so I decided to make my own punch. And this is how I made it:
 
I took suitable drill bit, in this case a 1,4 mm diameter. Drilled with it a hole into 6 mm thick iron stock. Then reversed the drill bit in the chuck of my milling machine so that the shank of the drill bit points down. The iron stock with 1,4 mm hole is tightened into the vice attached on the milling machine table, which is adjusted so that the drill bit can be lowered into the hole in stock. And voila, you have a 1,4 mm diameter punch and die set. And of course, when punching the discs/holes the milling machine chuck is NOT rotating, you just push the punch through the material you work with using the hand lever of the machine.
 
With this kind of punch it is possible to make holes/discs in thin sheets of soft metals like aluminum or brass, plastics, plywood, etc, and it has completely solved my problem. I hope you find it useful too if decide to follow this method.
 
 
1,4 diameter drill bit in the milling machine chuck with shank downwards. A piece of 6 mm iron stock with 1,4 mm hole drilled in it, attached into the vice and adjusted precisely below the drill bit:
 

 
Closeup of the punch:
 

I have to agree with Clare.  There is too much work involved rigging the ship to use a rope that is less than satisfactory.  The cost is insignificant when the work involved enters the equation.  Chuck's rope is beautiful as are his blocks.  Spend a few extra bucks and you will never be sorry.  The rope machine is an easily constructed item and a lot of fun to use.  I built mine about 10 years ago and don't know how I ever got by without it.
 
Good Luck and I hope the arthritis lets up.  I have the same problem with that.

I have found like many others posting to this question that these multi purpose machines never do any one thing good but are a compromise striving for the ability to perform so many different operations.  I used the Unimat 3 when it first came out and it was very good at a combination of tasks but you still have to reset it for each different function.  As your hobby moves forward you will wish you had purchased the independent machines.  Very much the same as buying smaller tools when you can purchase a larger one for a few dollars more.  Most model work can be done by hand if funds are an issue and my recommendation would be to research the tool before buying and then make the decision buying the best you can afford, one at a time if necessary.  I can't remember how many small saws I purchased before the Byrnes saw was offered which is the best ever, almost comparable to my SawStop that I use for large work.
 
Good luck,
 
Bill

Wefalck,
 
Beautiful work and well described with photos and videos.
 
Thanks,
 
Bill

Another option, which I don't think was mentioned in this thread, is the Sakura scroll saw, now I believe sold under the P & S Woods name.  These are sometimes found on E-Bay and excellent saws for the money.
 
I do however agree with previous posts recommending a band saw for this task.  I use a 14 inch Laguna Band Saw myself, but have the small Sakura when a scroll saw is needed.
 
Bill

I have found like many others posting to this question that these multi purpose machines never do any one thing good but are a compromise striving for the ability to perform so many different operations.  I used the Unimat 3 when it first came out and it was very good at a combination of tasks but you still have to reset it for each different function.  As your hobby moves forward you will wish you had purchased the independent machines.  Very much the same as buying smaller tools when you can purchase a larger one for a few dollars more.  Most model work can be done by hand if funds are an issue and my recommendation would be to research the tool before buying and then make the decision buying the best you can afford, one at a time if necessary.  I can't remember how many small saws I purchased before the Byrnes saw was offered which is the best ever, almost comparable to my SawStop that I use for large work.
 
Good luck,
 
Bill

All of these posts are great options, I use the Byrnes sander but have been through many others over the years.  Jarmac, I think , was the maker and produced a moderately priced fairly accurate disc sander.  I just checked E-bay and there is one available now.  
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Inch-Hobby-Disc-Sander-MicroMark-/231857281681?hash=item35fbc55a91:g:AIsAAOSwll1Wz6x-
 
Just another option.
 
Good Luck,
 
Bill

I have found like many others posting to this question that these multi purpose machines never do any one thing good but are a compromise striving for the ability to perform so many different operations.  I used the Unimat 3 when it first came out and it was very good at a combination of tasks but you still have to reset it for each different function.  As your hobby moves forward you will wish you had purchased the independent machines.  Very much the same as buying smaller tools when you can purchase a larger one for a few dollars more.  Most model work can be done by hand if funds are an issue and my recommendation would be to research the tool before buying and then make the decision buying the best you can afford, one at a time if necessary.  I can't remember how many small saws I purchased before the Byrnes saw was offered which is the best ever, almost comparable to my SawStop that I use for large work.
 
Good luck,
 
Bill

I have found like many others posting to this question that these multi purpose machines never do any one thing good but are a compromise striving for the ability to perform so many different operations.  I used the Unimat 3 when it first came out and it was very good at a combination of tasks but you still have to reset it for each different function.  As your hobby moves forward you will wish you had purchased the independent machines.  Very much the same as buying smaller tools when you can purchase a larger one for a few dollars more.  Most model work can be done by hand if funds are an issue and my recommendation would be to research the tool before buying and then make the decision buying the best you can afford, one at a time if necessary.  I can't remember how many small saws I purchased before the Byrnes saw was offered which is the best ever, almost comparable to my SawStop that I use for large work.
 
Good luck,
 
Bill

If I had a system like that on my workbench I'd have less room to build then I have now.  And I would never remember what drawer I put things in and the search for what I need would be open drawer after drawer.  I'm sure it is good for some but I'll stick with my mess. 
 
Bob