Jewelers Saw

[Roger Pellett]

The time has come for me to buy a jewelers saw. I used to own one and never was able to use it properly. I either had trouble tightening the blade in the grips or tightening the frame properly. As a result I broke blades and was never able to properly control cuts. It finally broke trying to tighten the blade grips and I never replaced.

 

In shopping on line for a new one, it is hard to see what I am getting, and I don't live near where I can see and try one. Any suggestions? I am particularly interested in the system to tighten and to hold the blade. Are there differences between different saws?

 

Roger

[Bob Cleek]

I hear you!  I've encountered the same problem.  The fact is, most of the "tools," using the term loosely, that are offered by "modeling" mail order houses are bottom-of-the-line junk.  (Yes, that means you, Model Expo and Micro-Mark!)  I can't blame them that much, though, because good tools are always expensive to buy, but cheaper in the long run.  Tool buyers are often new to a craft and hesitant to lay out the big bucks, so the retailers offer what sells... and often at rather high prices when all is said and done.

 

If I were in the market for a jeweler's saw, I'd go to any of the big commercial jeweler's supply houses.  In fact, that's where I go for any miniature tools these days.  I've found Otto Frei to have a particularly nice selection.  Here's their saw page:  http://www.ottofrei.com/Store/Saw-blades-and-Saw-Frames/ 

 

Rules for buying tools:  1) Never buy a tool unless you really need it.  2) If you are going to use the tool more than once, buy the best one you can possibly afford.  It will hold its value, be a joy to own, and improve your craftsmanship because you won't be able to blame your shortcomings on your tools!

 

Buying the best is always the most economical way to go, unless you know a cheapo throw-away tool will serve the purpose in the short haul.  And, if you amass a nice collection of really good tools, they will hold their value and perhaps make your widow's cleaning out your shop worth her while!

[wefalck]

I don't do that much sawing with a fret-saw these days, put it seems that a 'standard' (as Otto Frey term it) jeweler's frame does the job to me. As with all fret-saw judicious tensioning adapted to the blade and material to be sawn is required. I don't seem to have a problem fitting the blade to the frame and then pre-adjusting the moveable part of frame before tightening it with the thumb-screw. You may need to play around a bit with pre-adjusting the arm and tightening it in order to not put too much tension on it. In any case it is tool proven in the trade for more than a hundred years.

 

Being in Europe, I wouldn't buy from Otto Frey anyway, but too me they always seem to be a bit on the expensive side. One has to always check that such supply houses, like the modellers' ones, don't put a too high mark-up on (certain) tools. Such jewelers' frames are bog standard and one can get them from many different sources. Their 'standard' model seems to be reasonably priced, but they also have titanium-frame ones for the price of which you can get a table saw  

 

I would also support the view that the modellers' supply houses flog-off to modellers a lot of stuff that can be had from jewellers' or dentists' supply houses at better prices and often better quality. 

[JerseyCity Frankie]

My advice is to buy an inexpensive one on ebay and use and abuse it. You will break a lot of blades but you will learn what you like or don't like and you won't be out a lot of money.  Here is one at a great store I frequent in New York CIty, they are asking $16.00 : http://www.zakjewelrytools.com/collections/sawframes-blades/products/jewelers-sawframe-with-end-screw

[JesseLee]

I was a bench jeweler for 21 years. The jewelers saw was one of the most used tools I worked with every day. The secret is don't put too much tension on the blade. Tighten one end of the blade into the frame. Push the frame (top end against your work bench & the handle against your chest) very slightly & tighten the other end. You should be able to pluck it with your thumb & hear it "sing".  Don't force it with too much pressure. Let the teeth do the cutting. Take your time. When cutting metal lubricate it with something (we used bees wax in the jewelry trade). hope this helps some.

 

I just got one a t a local Hobby Lobby the other week. It felt good to feel one in my hands again!

 

Jesse

[druxey]

The jeweller's saw is an incredibly useful tool. Use it with a bench birdsmouth ('V') board. Follow Jesse's advice and you can't go far wrong.

[mtaylor]

I'm just now figuring this saw out and I really like it.   This topic is a big help in that.

[Bill Tuttle]

If you are not afraid to put a little money in it the Knew Concepts Fret saw in one of the best.  I own three of these in different sizes.  They have received rave reviews from a number of magazines and have a boatload of videos on their website giving instructions on choosing one as well as use and adjustments.  Check them out, I have no affiliation with them other than as a satisfied user.

 

http://www.knewconcepts.com/

[grsjax]

A problem with using a fret saw is putting to much pressure on the blade when sawing.  I try to let the blade do the work with as little extra pressure as I can get away with.

[michael mott]

 

let the blade do the work

This is a really important piece of advice, If I might be so bold as to add a further comment, if you buy a saw make sure that you also get an assortment of blades. These come in different types and sizes. blades for wood are generally coarser than those for metal. today I was cutting some .010 thick brass and I used a #7/0 blade and the brass cut like paper.

The other thing that is one of the most important aspects of using a jewelers say is to get the work you are cutting to a comfortable height, I find that chest height is the most comfortable, keep your forearm horizontal and your upper arm vertical hold the saw with a firm but light grip, you are always pulling down on the cut.

 

These things are hard to describe if you have a chance look at a few of the videos on line.

 

Michael

[Bob Blarney]

I'm partial to this Grobet saw at about $25.

 

 

[wefalck]

When I look at the price of these saw-guides mentioned above, I rather buy a motorised one … These saw-guides are not really a novelty, I have a 1920s hobby handycraft book that describes how to upgrade an ordinary fret-saw in this way.

[dgbot]

I bought my frame from Sante Fe Jewelry Supply and have no complaints.. https://www.sfjssantafe.com/items.php?Gid=079&ItemSet=Saws&DepId=tools

and the price was great.

David B