NenadM

15 hours ago, My Fathers Son said:

Not really, it's just how the sit because of the knot. 

Work out how they need to present the orientation. The lower deadeye has to have a single hole at the lowest part. So when attaching the line run this around the deadeye and instead of noting the two ends, use a much lighter line to bind the two ends together. 

Once installed, the lines need to be bound to the mast in the same order as they sit on the platform. 

It will still not look right until you do the rat lines to pull them in line. 

I really like your dedication to being fully scratch built including the components. 

I have to recognise that this is outside my current capabilities and accept that I have to source these for Cutty and Thermopylae. 

 

Simon

Thank you Simon for yourt support and nice advises. My brain started to work somewhere in background to find solution. Right now I am somewhere between trying with smaller deadeyes and simulation of dead eyes. We'll se what will happen.

Al the best.

Nenad

At first, it seems Ok ... but ... too big! I dont lke it! Bad work.

I.have to rethink whole thing.

18 dead eyes ready for next step

On 5/11/2024 at 1:15 AM, uscharin said:

Hello NenadM!

Fairly new to MSW and have been exploring all things Cutty Sark.  Have enjoyed catching up with your modeling project.  I started a model of Cutty Sark 40 years ago and am now ready to finish it now that I am retired.  Will be starting a build log shortly once I get myself organized. Black River Monastery looks very interesting, and thanks for sharing that.  I have visited underground monastic caves in Penza oblast, Russia (before war) so this sort of experience is very interesting to me.

All my best to you,

Ron

Hello Ron, and wellcome to MSW. I am glad if anybody is inspired by my attempts. Thank you for your nice words.

Here is last step I made today -dead eye 4mm dia

Short pause in shipyard.

Job trip with little travel to see incredible Black River Monastery at south of Serbia, situated in deep wood on mountain gorge with steep cliffs ...

Monastery church is situated in cave, miniature hermitages and monk cells are around and partially drilled in stone, narrow passages as labyrinth, wooden terraces above the precipice .... all walled with stone ... 

Enjoy as I did!

Final touch and weathering before thiny varnish

Final touch and weathering before thin varnish

13 hours ago, ScottRC said:

Hi Nenad,

I am back for a short visit here on MSW and am so glad to see your back on your scratch build.  Your metal work is coming along fine. She looks so good with all her furniture on the deck and now her masts are going up.  

 

Regards,

Scott

Thank you, Scott, for nice words. As I wrote earlier, in early stage of build I have big mistake which can not be resolved, and which I noticed after mounting 4000 foil strips as mynz metal under water line, except to start model from begining. Deck and deck rails are not paralell ... deck fence has different random height ... 

So, then I decide to overdetail Her to turn off attention of anybody who will se Her.

And that is simply - that.

Beside that, making this little beasts is chalenge! And fun.

All the best.

Nenad

Details

Painting

Almost ready for cleaning and white paint

All of them

Cap Band,, step by step

Remarks

Strip of Cu foil on start is spiral, with ends INSIDE

Dont forget to apply thiny foil of soldering on surface of strip.

1. Cut a strip of copper foil of the required width, long enough to wrap twice around the mast. Sand well
2. Bend the tape around both masts in a spiral, so that the ends of the tape are on the inside
3. remove from the mold, adjust to the correct dimensions and tighten so that it does not unroll, then solder the assemblies. Apply a thin layer of solder paste to the surface of the ring to strengthen it
4. Solder the foil over as a cover
5. Remove excess material
6. Drill the holes for the hooks

Making Cap Bands dia 6mm and 8mm is pretty tricky task, which take me couple of months thinking about "how to hell to do this".

I forgot how did I make this little beast on bowsprit couple of years before.

Thiny, slim, and at the same time it has to be strong enough to hold whole structure and ropes. This is a place where all pull forces from mast ropes came to gather.

So, yesterday I had brainstorm, and this is it.

In one of next post I will explane step by step my idea

Micro soldering

First Cap Band

9 hours ago, mtaylor said:

Try acetone, Nenad.   Test it on some scrap wood and glued up with CA.  

Thanks, dear friend, you remind me that I read about it a along time ago, somewhere on MSW.

It can not be boring to me with me 😉🤪

And off course, a mistake!

Fortunately, yesterday I temporary put masts on their place to make some pictures, and ... realised .... connection ring on Mizzen for lower yard for spanker is positioned too low!

Where were your eyes and brain, Nenad?

Happy me!
For now, I am curious can I remount CA without damaging wood, and reuse ring with yard holder, or have to make a new mizzen mast .... 

Progressing

All three nests got plankung with light weathering, so, they are done! Exept painting in one of next stage..

Micro-soldering, testing on way for top of mast

When you have not enough hands ...

Second mast almost done

And the nest ...

More mast details

Master work!

Nice work!

Working on mast, question arrises - metal fittings are small (1:100) and - which material to use for them?

e.g. yard holdings ... Galvanized **** for gutters I have  is to rough and very hard to fit. Cu  foil I have (0,3mm) is very thin and elastic and can not hold yard.

Brain storming idea - to cover Cu foil with thin layer of soldering?

And this is it!

Soldering gives it required strenght , even it is 4mm in dia at the hole part.