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SJSoane
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SJSoane got a reaction from Steve Anderson in HMS Bellona 1760 by SJSoane - Scale 1:64 - English 74-gun - as designed
Thanks, everyone, for this help with the wing transom knees.
I have completed the gundeck waterways, ready for installation. I have pondered whether I can get these glued and clamped within the 5 minute "open time" for Titebond Original glue. I consulted with the ship cat, and she agrees that it would be risky. So a trip to the store to find some Titebond III, with an "open time" of 10 minutes. Good thing to have a smart ship cat.
Mark
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SJSoane got a reaction from daHeld73 in HMS Bellona 1760 by SJSoane - Scale 1:64 - English 74-gun - as designed
Yes, indeed, I had the marks at the rabbet a smidge too high. I think they are parallel now. Easier to see in a photo than staring at the model itself. ..
Thanks again, Druxey.
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SJSoane got a reaction from KORTES in HMS Bellona 1760 by SJSoane - Scale 1:64 - English 74-gun - as designed
Yes, indeed, I had the marks at the rabbet a smidge too high. I think they are parallel now. Easier to see in a photo than staring at the model itself. ..
Thanks again, Druxey.
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SJSoane got a reaction from Elia in HMS Bellona 1760 by SJSoane - Scale 1:64 - English 74-gun - as designed
Yes, indeed, I had the marks at the rabbet a smidge too high. I think they are parallel now. Easier to see in a photo than staring at the model itself. ..
Thanks again, Druxey.
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SJSoane got a reaction from alde in HMS Bellona 1760 by SJSoane - Scale 1:64 - English 74-gun - as designed
Yes, indeed, I had the marks at the rabbet a smidge too high. I think they are parallel now. Easier to see in a photo than staring at the model itself. ..
Thanks again, Druxey.
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SJSoane got a reaction from giampieroricci in HMS Bellona 1760 by SJSoane - Scale 1:64 - English 74-gun - as designed
Yes, indeed, I had the marks at the rabbet a smidge too high. I think they are parallel now. Easier to see in a photo than staring at the model itself. ..
Thanks again, Druxey.
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SJSoane reacted to EdT in Young America 1853 by EdT - FINISHED - extreme clipper
Mark, the two planing beds, one with cams the other V-grooved, are 3 1/2" x 3/4 pine planks that rest at the ends on 3/4" thick strips and are screwed through these into a 2 x 4 (i e 1 1/2" x 3 1/2" w) - for stiffness. Near the center of the bed are two screws through holes in the bed into the 2x4. Tightening these screws depresses the bed in a curve in the center. A 3/4" shim is used under the center of the bed to restore it to a flat state when the screws are loosened. The 2 x 4 is vise mounted.
Ed
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SJSoane got a reaction from daHeld73 in HMS Bellona 1760 by SJSoane - Scale 1:64 - English 74-gun - as designed
After exploring how to shape with machines the hooked scarphs for the wales, I have determined that the geometry changes for each piece, and that it would be more effective to cut them by hand. I then recalled Gary (garyshipwright) installing wales for his beautiful model of HMS Alfred. (I have tried to attach a link to his site, but it appears to go to the end rather than to the relevant pages. It is somewhere around page 4).
Gary temporarily attached a batten above the wale, to which he clamped the upper strakes for a fair run. Subsequent lower strakes were clamped to the upper strake. It seems like a good idea, and I will try it. I also see that Gary laid up the wales in two layers, practicing on the first layer. I will see how well I can cut and bend 8 ½" thick pieces before deciding if I will do this in two layers as well. Getting in some practice on these complex pieces makes it feel less daunting...
Gary, I haven't seen a post from you for a while, hope you see this!
I tried string on the port side for fairing and decided that the tape gave me something to draw against. Now that I am determined to cut each piece to fit, I will want to draw the individual parts on the model sides to know where I am going. The tape also helped me visualize whether the two sides are the same.
Mark
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SJSoane got a reaction from KORTES in HMS Bellona 1760 by SJSoane - Scale 1:64 - English 74-gun - as designed
After exploring how to shape with machines the hooked scarphs for the wales, I have determined that the geometry changes for each piece, and that it would be more effective to cut them by hand. I then recalled Gary (garyshipwright) installing wales for his beautiful model of HMS Alfred. (I have tried to attach a link to his site, but it appears to go to the end rather than to the relevant pages. It is somewhere around page 4).
Gary temporarily attached a batten above the wale, to which he clamped the upper strakes for a fair run. Subsequent lower strakes were clamped to the upper strake. It seems like a good idea, and I will try it. I also see that Gary laid up the wales in two layers, practicing on the first layer. I will see how well I can cut and bend 8 ½" thick pieces before deciding if I will do this in two layers as well. Getting in some practice on these complex pieces makes it feel less daunting...
Gary, I haven't seen a post from you for a while, hope you see this!
I tried string on the port side for fairing and decided that the tape gave me something to draw against. Now that I am determined to cut each piece to fit, I will want to draw the individual parts on the model sides to know where I am going. The tape also helped me visualize whether the two sides are the same.
Mark
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SJSoane got a reaction from Elia in HMS Bellona 1760 by SJSoane - Scale 1:64 - English 74-gun - as designed
After exploring how to shape with machines the hooked scarphs for the wales, I have determined that the geometry changes for each piece, and that it would be more effective to cut them by hand. I then recalled Gary (garyshipwright) installing wales for his beautiful model of HMS Alfred. (I have tried to attach a link to his site, but it appears to go to the end rather than to the relevant pages. It is somewhere around page 4).
Gary temporarily attached a batten above the wale, to which he clamped the upper strakes for a fair run. Subsequent lower strakes were clamped to the upper strake. It seems like a good idea, and I will try it. I also see that Gary laid up the wales in two layers, practicing on the first layer. I will see how well I can cut and bend 8 ½" thick pieces before deciding if I will do this in two layers as well. Getting in some practice on these complex pieces makes it feel less daunting...
Gary, I haven't seen a post from you for a while, hope you see this!
I tried string on the port side for fairing and decided that the tape gave me something to draw against. Now that I am determined to cut each piece to fit, I will want to draw the individual parts on the model sides to know where I am going. The tape also helped me visualize whether the two sides are the same.
Mark
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SJSoane got a reaction from daHeld73 in HMS Bellona 1760 by SJSoane - Scale 1:64 - English 74-gun - as designed
Thanks, Mike, the beauty of that underwater form keeps me going.
I reflected on setting up the wales last night, and it bothered me that I could not see the fairness of the wale past the clamps on the batten.
I re-read appropriate portions Ed Tosti's Naiad book, and saw that he used painter's tape. I tried this, and it works much, much better. I can see both top and bottom. And sighting down the length really highlights the low or high spots. In this case, I saw a low spot at the fifth gunport from the bow, and could fair in another piece of tape to get the edge just right. Thanks, Ed, much better process. Now, thinking about how to cut the hooked scarph joints that are so distinctive in the first Bellona model of 1760.
Mark
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SJSoane got a reaction from Piet in Young America 1853 by EdT - FINISHED - extreme clipper
Ed, could you elaborate on how the planing device depresses the center of bed? Or did you explain this earlier in your build?
Mark
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SJSoane got a reaction from daHeld73 in HMS Bellona 1760 by SJSoane - Scale 1:64 - English 74-gun - as designed
Yes I noticed that as well. The value of photos! I will double check some points off the sheer and see what is going on.
Thanks for checking!
Mark
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SJSoane got a reaction from druxey in HMS Bellona 1760 by SJSoane - Scale 1:64 - English 74-gun - as designed
Yes I noticed that as well. The value of photos! I will double check some points off the sheer and see what is going on.
Thanks for checking!
Mark
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SJSoane got a reaction from alde in HMS Bellona 1760 by SJSoane - Scale 1:64 - English 74-gun - as designed
After exploring how to shape with machines the hooked scarphs for the wales, I have determined that the geometry changes for each piece, and that it would be more effective to cut them by hand. I then recalled Gary (garyshipwright) installing wales for his beautiful model of HMS Alfred. (I have tried to attach a link to his site, but it appears to go to the end rather than to the relevant pages. It is somewhere around page 4).
Gary temporarily attached a batten above the wale, to which he clamped the upper strakes for a fair run. Subsequent lower strakes were clamped to the upper strake. It seems like a good idea, and I will try it. I also see that Gary laid up the wales in two layers, practicing on the first layer. I will see how well I can cut and bend 8 ½" thick pieces before deciding if I will do this in two layers as well. Getting in some practice on these complex pieces makes it feel less daunting...
Gary, I haven't seen a post from you for a while, hope you see this!
I tried string on the port side for fairing and decided that the tape gave me something to draw against. Now that I am determined to cut each piece to fit, I will want to draw the individual parts on the model sides to know where I am going. The tape also helped me visualize whether the two sides are the same.
Mark
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SJSoane got a reaction from PeteB in Young America 1853 by EdT - FINISHED - extreme clipper
Ed, could you elaborate on how the planing device depresses the center of bed? Or did you explain this earlier in your build?
Mark
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SJSoane got a reaction from giampieroricci in HMS Bellona 1760 by SJSoane - Scale 1:64 - English 74-gun - as designed
After exploring how to shape with machines the hooked scarphs for the wales, I have determined that the geometry changes for each piece, and that it would be more effective to cut them by hand. I then recalled Gary (garyshipwright) installing wales for his beautiful model of HMS Alfred. (I have tried to attach a link to his site, but it appears to go to the end rather than to the relevant pages. It is somewhere around page 4).
Gary temporarily attached a batten above the wale, to which he clamped the upper strakes for a fair run. Subsequent lower strakes were clamped to the upper strake. It seems like a good idea, and I will try it. I also see that Gary laid up the wales in two layers, practicing on the first layer. I will see how well I can cut and bend 8 ½" thick pieces before deciding if I will do this in two layers as well. Getting in some practice on these complex pieces makes it feel less daunting...
Gary, I haven't seen a post from you for a while, hope you see this!
I tried string on the port side for fairing and decided that the tape gave me something to draw against. Now that I am determined to cut each piece to fit, I will want to draw the individual parts on the model sides to know where I am going. The tape also helped me visualize whether the two sides are the same.
Mark
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SJSoane got a reaction from aviaamator in HMS Bellona 1760 by SJSoane - Scale 1:64 - English 74-gun - as designed
After exploring how to shape with machines the hooked scarphs for the wales, I have determined that the geometry changes for each piece, and that it would be more effective to cut them by hand. I then recalled Gary (garyshipwright) installing wales for his beautiful model of HMS Alfred. (I have tried to attach a link to his site, but it appears to go to the end rather than to the relevant pages. It is somewhere around page 4).
Gary temporarily attached a batten above the wale, to which he clamped the upper strakes for a fair run. Subsequent lower strakes were clamped to the upper strake. It seems like a good idea, and I will try it. I also see that Gary laid up the wales in two layers, practicing on the first layer. I will see how well I can cut and bend 8 ½" thick pieces before deciding if I will do this in two layers as well. Getting in some practice on these complex pieces makes it feel less daunting...
Gary, I haven't seen a post from you for a while, hope you see this!
I tried string on the port side for fairing and decided that the tape gave me something to draw against. Now that I am determined to cut each piece to fit, I will want to draw the individual parts on the model sides to know where I am going. The tape also helped me visualize whether the two sides are the same.
Mark
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SJSoane got a reaction from mcpwilk in HMS Bellona 1760 by SJSoane - Scale 1:64 - English 74-gun - as designed
After exploring how to shape with machines the hooked scarphs for the wales, I have determined that the geometry changes for each piece, and that it would be more effective to cut them by hand. I then recalled Gary (garyshipwright) installing wales for his beautiful model of HMS Alfred. (I have tried to attach a link to his site, but it appears to go to the end rather than to the relevant pages. It is somewhere around page 4).
Gary temporarily attached a batten above the wale, to which he clamped the upper strakes for a fair run. Subsequent lower strakes were clamped to the upper strake. It seems like a good idea, and I will try it. I also see that Gary laid up the wales in two layers, practicing on the first layer. I will see how well I can cut and bend 8 ½" thick pieces before deciding if I will do this in two layers as well. Getting in some practice on these complex pieces makes it feel less daunting...
Gary, I haven't seen a post from you for a while, hope you see this!
I tried string on the port side for fairing and decided that the tape gave me something to draw against. Now that I am determined to cut each piece to fit, I will want to draw the individual parts on the model sides to know where I am going. The tape also helped me visualize whether the two sides are the same.
Mark
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SJSoane got a reaction from daHeld73 in HMS Bellona 1760 by SJSoane - Scale 1:64 - English 74-gun - as designed
Thanks, everyone, for this help with the wing transom knees.
I have completed the gundeck waterways, ready for installation. I have pondered whether I can get these glued and clamped within the 5 minute "open time" for Titebond Original glue. I consulted with the ship cat, and she agrees that it would be risky. So a trip to the store to find some Titebond III, with an "open time" of 10 minutes. Good thing to have a smart ship cat.
Mark
-
SJSoane got a reaction from KORTES in HMS Bellona 1760 by SJSoane - Scale 1:64 - English 74-gun - as designed
Thanks, Mike, the beauty of that underwater form keeps me going.
I reflected on setting up the wales last night, and it bothered me that I could not see the fairness of the wale past the clamps on the batten.
I re-read appropriate portions Ed Tosti's Naiad book, and saw that he used painter's tape. I tried this, and it works much, much better. I can see both top and bottom. And sighting down the length really highlights the low or high spots. In this case, I saw a low spot at the fifth gunport from the bow, and could fair in another piece of tape to get the edge just right. Thanks, Ed, much better process. Now, thinking about how to cut the hooked scarph joints that are so distinctive in the first Bellona model of 1760.
Mark
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SJSoane got a reaction from mtaylor in Young America 1853 by EdT - FINISHED - extreme clipper
Thanks!
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SJSoane got a reaction from gjdale in HMS Bellona 1760 by SJSoane - Scale 1:64 - English 74-gun - as designed
After exploring how to shape with machines the hooked scarphs for the wales, I have determined that the geometry changes for each piece, and that it would be more effective to cut them by hand. I then recalled Gary (garyshipwright) installing wales for his beautiful model of HMS Alfred. (I have tried to attach a link to his site, but it appears to go to the end rather than to the relevant pages. It is somewhere around page 4).
Gary temporarily attached a batten above the wale, to which he clamped the upper strakes for a fair run. Subsequent lower strakes were clamped to the upper strake. It seems like a good idea, and I will try it. I also see that Gary laid up the wales in two layers, practicing on the first layer. I will see how well I can cut and bend 8 ½" thick pieces before deciding if I will do this in two layers as well. Getting in some practice on these complex pieces makes it feel less daunting...
Gary, I haven't seen a post from you for a while, hope you see this!
I tried string on the port side for fairing and decided that the tape gave me something to draw against. Now that I am determined to cut each piece to fit, I will want to draw the individual parts on the model sides to know where I am going. The tape also helped me visualize whether the two sides are the same.
Mark
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SJSoane got a reaction from mtaylor in Young America 1853 by EdT - FINISHED - extreme clipper
Ed, could you elaborate on how the planing device depresses the center of bed? Or did you explain this earlier in your build?
Mark
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