minimini

Thanks, everyone, for the likes. And thanks, druxey, I may try upside down when I get to the multiple twist stern planks. For now, the straight side is going quickly--at least as quickly as I seem to be able to work. As I move along, I am scribing the lower edge relative to the top edge with a compass, to ensure parallel edges. I am trying to sand these lower surfaces to the correct size before attaching, because I need to protect the hull surface below which will always be exposed; no lower planking for me!
 
I tried a sample of blackening using Fiebing's black shoe polish. However, I see I have a problem cutting a clean line as I will need to do on the stem pieces, as seen on the 2nd Bellona model below. On my sample, I used Tamiya model tape pressed down with a burnisher to make an edge; on the left side, I also scored the wood with a scalpel, I thought fairly deep. But both sides let stain run past the edge. Any thoughts on how to cut a clean edge using the shoe polish?
 
I pulled out some samples I made a number of years ago, using Floquil flat black diluted to act more as a stain. It also ran under the masking tape. I will try Ed's Speedball ink next, but I suspect that since it is also watery, I will have the same problem. I don't want to point fingers, but look at the wiggly line painted on the Bellona model...
 
Mark
 

The munions between the stern lights are covered with carved pilasters.  Some of the Swan Class ships had simple reed decorations but not this one.  I will need to make a total of 10 of them.  I considered making a master from clay and casting them but that would require painting them.  I will try carving first.  Please remember that the full size of the carved garland is 10 mm.  Therefore I have decided to take an impressionist approach to their carving.  If they are all similar it will give a good impression of garlands.
 

 

 
 
As yet another break from carving I make the quarter rail.  Because of its length I made a simple joint at the support piece above the gun port and a scarfed joint at the center swivel gun mount.  It is bolted to the swivel gun mount, leaving an airspace between the rail and gun mount.  The scroll was carved using the plan as a template.  The distance between the planksheer and the quarter rail diminishes as one goes aft.  Back to the carving!
 

 

 

For the Gun port openings, I would say, there are 2 ways to align each opening part. An upper part and a lower part are inserted horizontally. I did trace the parts inside and outside, as it can be seen on the last picture of the previous post. The alignment of the gunport can be done on one or the other part but I think greater precision can be achieved with the inside line because this is the part which will be seen, If we check the alignment , we will check it with the inner part not the outside one, planking being installed or not.

Hi Druxey
Yes, you're right, I've looked up drawings back from 1705 until 1820
and they all show the same thing, like this one  from 1728

Michael

Hello Siggi
I have found this drawing in the Danish archive. It's a plan of a Danish 90-gun ship of the line  from 1766, I have 3-4 drawings more that show the same
 

Michael
 

Hello,
 
thank you Johann and all the others for there likes, but for me it's just one plank after the other 
 
Here some pictures of the stealers I build already. I modified my bending jig for a more moderate curve and bend the planks upright. I think I will build also a third stealer, to get better around the bow with the planks.
 

 

 

 
And there they are. Not so perfect as Mark's joints, but later you would't see it, because of the THICK layer of white paint that covers them. 
 

 
The advantage of building with balsa wood is that you could secure your planks with pins. So it's not all bad with it.
 

 

 
 
 
 
 

After assembling the build board, I began assembling the keel pieces.  In the photo below you see the three elements..The rising wood on top,  the two keel pieces glued together in the center and the false keel below that.  I darkened the seam between the two keel parts so they would really stand out using a soft pencil.  I had my two screws and bolts ready as well.

I used the screws to help align the layers and glue them together.  Note how I left all the laser char in place until after all the keel parts were glued together.  I also darkened the seam between the keel and false keel.
 

Then the rising wood was added but first I needed to glue the two nuts into the laser cut holes provided for them.  I simply placed a nut on the table and positioned the rising wood over the top of it.  Then I pressed down firmly to push the wood over the nut.  This placed the nut perfectly.  I added a drop of glue around the nuts perimeter to secure it flush with the bottom of the rising wood.  I was careful not to get any glue on the threads of the nut.
Then I glued it to the top of the keel.  After applying some titebond I actually screwed it into position to be aligned.  The middle keel was intentionally left a bit wider because now I will remove the laser char.  There is more char on the thicker keel pieces so I left that thicker so it wouldnt be over sanded in the process.  It cleaned up pretty good.  I was careful not to remove too much.  I applied some wipe on poly afterwards.

All cleaned up and test fit with the screws on the work base which you might notice I made a bit wider in this final version...The bottom of the base uses another piece of laser cut wood to make sure the screws dont stick out to far on top of the rising wood.  There are several supplied to use as spacers if need be.  Then I removed the keel to start on the rabbet.


To make the rabbet I used a laser cut scraper tool designed especially for the job.  See below as it is pretty self explanatory.  Brass strip filed to a point and used to make the rabbet.

Several light passes at first working from the center outward.  Then I cleaned up the rabbet with some sand paper and files.

To finish off the keel, I used some 20 pound black fishing line for the bolts.  I realize these would have been copper but I really dont like that look.  But you guys can substitute if you prefer.   I like them blackened as shown instead.  Next up I will detail how to build the frames.
 

Thanks for the likes, the comments and the following along on this adventure.
 
The first 12 guns are installed on the port side with their breeching ropes.  The traversing tackle is waiting for some Chuck Blocks.  I've drilled the holes and installed the eyebolts for the when the traversing tackle needs to be moved to pull the guns in manually along.  Also installed were the eyebolts for securing the ship's boats.  Holes have been drilled for more eyebolts for the mainmast running rigging.  Those are also on hold until the blocks arrive as I'm not about to try to rig blocks to the eyebolts in place.  The breeching has been seized to the eyebolts but instead of the two seizings shown in various references, I only did one.   My eyes have begun crossing... and I have the starboard side to do yet.
 
There's a couple of guns not quite in perfect alignment with the rest but I can live with that.
 
I'm holding off on the deck furniture until all the guns are installed and all the gun tackle is installed.  I'm not going to go through the "oops, broke something" any more if I can avoid it.  For those keeping score... three carriages were broken in the pursuit of installing them and re-made from the extra parts I made.  Fragile little things they are.
 
Anyway, enough of my blathering on, here's the pictures.
 




 

Beautiful work.
 
Michael

Hello guys !


Next on my work ...







See you soon
!
Patrick

Thanks Pat & Carl!
 
Milled the rest of the flooring. Dry-fit confirmed that I have enough wood (phew!), but just enough - no room for whoopsies:

 
There are some synergies between our hobbies, knitting weights are handy

 
First planks are in! Now it is quite mechanical, planning to install one pair every evening:

Hello gentlemen !

Continuation of work, always inside the hull ...


 
Une petite progression, toujours à fond de cale. Rien de particulier à dire, simplement quelques photos ...


 



 



 



 



 



 



 



 



 



 
That's  all for today !


 
Patrick

Hi everyone,
 
Thank you, everyone, for the helpful suggestions. It turns out that it was spiled accurately but it had the opposite of spring-back from the steaming and bending; it was bent a trifle too much, so the middle was sitting about a 1/16" away from the hull in the longitudinal direction while the ends were touching the hull. Finger pressure was enough to get it in place.
 
So after trying a number of failed clamping ideas, I went with Greg's suggestion to use spots of cyano in between the carpenter's glue. After experimenting with a few spare pieces, I just went for it. It took rather longer than 90 seconds to grab, and I was able to get some vertical clamps in. And all held well. Nice to have that behind me, and I learned a new good trick.
 
I also took off the batten, because my clamps are too short to span the entire wale plus the batten. Without the batten, you can begin to see the true lines, as in the second photo.
 
Mark
 
 

Thank you very much.

Hello, and many thanks for your comments and likes.
 
now the upper ship is planked. It was't always an easy job, but it's done. For that event, Leo was invited to take his seat. 
The underwater ship would be easier, because there are no port holes,  but may be other hardships. 
 

 

 

 
  

Hi Druxey
Yes, you're right, I've looked up drawings back from 1705 until 1820
and they all show the same thing, like this one  from 1728

Michael

Away for a few days, to the annual Charlie Russell art auction in Great Falls, Montana. Some of the best Western traditional art in the US. I can't afford to buy any, just look and admire...
 
I am continuing with the wales. I fitted the foremost, lower two strakes before bending, using artist's transfer paper squeezed between the two pieces. This notes high points which are then lightly filed down, and the two are tested again. With patience, one can sneak up on a very tight joint. The second photo shows dry clamping for fit after the bending, and a closeup in the third photo. Interestingly, the plank was carefully spiled, but it still needed a fair amount of adjustment using the artist's transfer paper. I think it has to do with the constantly changing angle of the upper surface, since most of the high points were on the inner edge. Glue tomorrow!
 
Mark
 

Hi Druxey
Yes, you're right, I've looked up drawings back from 1705 until 1820
and they all show the same thing, like this one  from 1728

Michael

Hello Siggi
I have found this drawing in the Danish archive. It's a plan of a Danish 90-gun ship of the line  from 1766, I have 3-4 drawings more that show the same
 

Michael
 

Hello Siggi
I have found this drawing in the Danish archive. It's a plan of a Danish 90-gun ship of the line  from 1766, I have 3-4 drawings more that show the same
 

Michael
 

Bonjour, enfin quelques photos.
 
Isalbert

Hi Druxey
Yes, you're right, I've looked up drawings back from 1705 until 1820
and they all show the same thing, like this one  from 1728

Michael

Hello Siggi
I have found this drawing in the Danish archive. It's a plan of a Danish 90-gun ship of the line  from 1766, I have 3-4 drawings more that show the same
 

Michael
 

Hello Siggi
I have found this drawing in the Danish archive. It's a plan of a Danish 90-gun ship of the line  from 1766, I have 3-4 drawings more that show the same
 

Michael
 

Hi Druxey
Yes, you're right, I've looked up drawings back from 1705 until 1820
and they all show the same thing, like this one  from 1728

Michael