dvm27

Thank you George and John, much appreciated.
 
 
George - here are a couple more pics of the Fish Davit which might make it's fitting a bit clearer :
 

 
The inner end goes through the Spanshackle Ring :
 

 
I had to shorten the fish davit considerably from the length shown in TFFM, as it would have finished way too far outboard (it's probably still a bit too long). TFFM's fish davit is on HMS Resolution and fits forward of the foremast and is a rather different setup.
 
The last thing to fit on both anchors is the rope seized to the Shankpainter Chain, which was fitted at the time the Channels went on. The rope is 0.45mm in diameter and was too large to fit through the chain link, so I made a small ring to which I seized the rope :
 

 
The port side anchor is shown as Stowed. The shankpainter chain loops around the shank of the anchor and belays to the timberhead forward of the fish davit block :
 

 

 
The stock is belayed to the cathead. I had to "be my own captain" when stowing the anchors - feel free to tell me I've got it wrong, but they don't fit any other way :
 

 
Some more pics of the port anchor :
 

 

 

 
 Danny

After planking the bulwarks I painted it red.  The finished bulwarks were 5/32" thick.  Maybe slightly thinner.  Then it was time to add the caprail.  It will be added in two pieces.  First the main rail which is 1/16" thick.  This was sanded flush both inboard and outboard.   Another strip will eventually be placed outboard as a fancy molding.  It is scraped like the others and is 1/6" x 1/32".  But it wasnt added yet.
 
First I had to create the hawse hole plates....which are essentially 1/32" thick pieces with the holes ut for the hawse holes and the bowsprit.  This sits flush with the top of the caprail so I had to add it first before I could add the fancy molding strip along the caprail outboard.  I didnt drill the hawse holes yet.  This will be done next.  But the hawse plates in position makes it easy to find their locations.  So that will be done in a day or two.
 
Lastly I added that fancy molding strip outboard for the cap rail which stands proud of the hull planking and finishes it off.   This is where I am to date and after drilling the hawse holes and hole for the bowsprit I will make preparations to start planking the deck.   Its getting there...
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
I am contemplating painting the hawse plates and the stem above the ear molding black.....along with the fashion pieces at the stern.  But I have time to decide that.  So I will live with it as it is shown for a while before I commit to it.  Maybe after I drill and file the holes for the bowsprit and such...we shall see.
 
 
 
 

Thanks for the comments Grant, Greg, George, Dave, Keelhauled and Laman .
 
 
I have a model of Norske Lowe to finish off for a guy who's dad was building her before he passed away, and then it will be a Ship in a Bottle.
 
Anchor Rigging
 
I am going to rig the two Bower Anchors in different ways. The starboard one will be stowed, and the port one (shown here) is "About to be Stowed". This will make use of the Fish Davit and all it's associated rigging.
 
First I made all the various blocks needed. The two Cat Blocks are interesting - they are iron-bound and double-sheaved.
 
I made the "iron" straps from thin brass sheet. After working out the length required (by trial and error) I drilled and filed a strip in the vise :
 

 

 
The three parts of the block, which is recessed to accept the strap. The hook is drilled into the block, and the strap is Epoxied on. The join in the strap fits against the hook and is invisible :
 

 

 

 
The Fish Tackle Hook is very large, as it needs to pass around the anchor arm. Note the Thimble in the eye of the hook :
 

 
The Fish Tackle block and a violin block for the fish tackle :
 

 

 
 
 
 Danny

I wasn't going to post this photo of the QD main rail but it keeps 'calling' me.
 
Note the simulated sheaves in the lower stanchions.  The lower rail is doubled to produce a nice beaded effect whereas the upper is a single so as not to make it too massive.  I left it in natural finish (rather than the suggested black) as I'm going with black for all the belaying pins and, against the swiss pear deck, we see a nice contrast.
 

 
Onward to the long forgotten bow!

CANADA POST’S NEW EREBUS STAMP
 
Several months ago I mentioned on my blog that I was working on several side projects related to HMS Terror. Today, Canada Post unveiled a series of new stamps commemorating the Franklin Expedition and the 2014 discovery of HMS Erebus. The stamps include a permanent se-tenant issue and an international-rate stamp, and I was fortunate enough to have been asked to contribute an historically accurate plan to their design of the international-rate stamp. I also provided comments and feedback on the ship depicted in the se-tenant stamp.   
 

The international-rate stamp showing the sonar image combined with  the upper deck plans. Image courtesy
of Canada Post, used with permission. 
 
The international-rate stamp combines a modern sonar image with an upper deck plan of HMS Erebus that I created. The complete upper deck plan is featured on an uncut press sheet and I also produced a cross-section of Erebus that will be included in packaging materials. The deck plan shows HMS Erebus in her 1845 configuration, which no contemporary plan depicts. This new plan is based on ones I created for HMS Terror, which I carefully modified to accurately match the dimensions, fittings, and features of HMS Erebus.
 

The permanent se-tenant showing Erebus trapped in ice. Image courtesy of Canada
Post, used with permission. 
 
When I started creating plans of Franklin’s ships, I never expected that they would be seen by anyone but hobbyists and Franklin enthusiasts. I couldn’t have guessed that they might be used in a project such as this – especially juxtaposed with a real image of HMS Erebus. I was shocked at how accurately the plans matched the sonar image, which exposes much about the technology used on the search and the accuracy of the historical source materials relating to Erebus.
 
It was a thrill to work with the talented designers and professionals from Canada Post, and I’m very pleased with the result. 

..... continued
 
The "bolts" were the last things to add. I started with two long pieces of wire and soldered them into the holes :
 

 
I cut the inner bolt flush as drilling both holes will be nearly impossible. One pin will suffice to hold the stanchion in position until the epoxy dries :
 

 

 
Finally the cranes were blackened :
 

 

 
 Danny

Build log 2 – plans and lifts
 
Thanks for joining me and for the likes and comments.  She is an elegant liner and should make a sweet model if I am careful. 
 
Now that I had the paper plans in hand I took them to my local blueprint copy shop.  For not a lot of money they digitized each sheet at 300 dpi.  Since the sheets were 4 feet long and 2 feet wide, this made for some pretty large files, but well within my computer’s capacity.  It did mean that they take a while to open in Photoshop, but that was a minor inconvenience.  I also took some of the plans from the internet and used them for planning.
 
The first of these was the exterior hull with the deck locations indicated in both French and English.  This was taken from the deck plans poster, so I did not completely trust it, but it served as a rough guide to the overall appearance for preliminary planning purposes. 
 

 

 
First, the drawing had to be resized.  I used the known LOA dimension of the Andrea Doria which is 213.80 meters, or 701.5 feet.  Scaled down to 1:192 this meant that the model would be 1,113.54 millimeters, or 43.84 inches long.  There is a ruler function in Photoshop and it was used to enlarge the image until the drawing was the same size as the model would be.
 
Once adjusted for length it revealed that the individual decks were, with one exception, just under 5/8” tall on the plans (15mm), or 9.5 feet in scale.  This would work out well, as I could build the upper decks up from ½” tall deckhouses and 3/32” caps or roofs.  The lower hull would be built up from just the ½” layers since they did not have to match the actual height of the decks.
 
With that decided, I could start to see where and how to divide up the hull into lifts.  I began with the longitudinal cross section from the ANB plans.  It was measured in Photoshop and adjusted as needed. Then it was overlaid with lines indicating the individual lifts. 
 

 
But there was a problem.  The lifts would be exactly horizontal, while the deck map showed a substantial amount of sheer for each deck, especially at the bow.  The number and shape of the lifts had to take this into account.
 
Amidships this was a simple process.  Seven half-inch lifts would bring the model hull up to the level of the Upper Deck where the color scheme of the ship changes from black to white.  This is an important line, visually, so I based my construction sequence around it.
 

 
At the bow the rise in the sheer line meant that the color separation line was now eight lifts high and tipped up at a shallow angle.  The plan shows my  solution, which was to add a wedge shaped lift (Lift 8).
 

 
At the stern the problems were a little more complex.  It turned out that the rudder post was 2 ½ lifts tall.  Above that the hull expanded quickly to the rounded counter and stern.  This came up only 6 full lifts, then there was the open working deck, also tipped up by the sheer line.  You can see how I planned to piece it all together, with the third lift divided into a 3A and 3B lifts of ¼” each, and a wedge shaped lift 7A.
 

 
Now that I had the number and thickness of the lifts set, I had to determine their shapes accurately enough to cut out the wood.
 
The first step was to resize the deck plans to match the cross section.  For each deck the overall length was measured on the cross section.  This was then used to adjust each deck plan as needed.  Interestingly, I found that some of the paper plans were a little small and some were a little large.  Without this step I might have ended up with some serious conflicts down the line.
 
Once each deck plan had been resized they were combined in one master plan.  Each was located using internal landmarks so I could scroll up or down to see what was above or below the adjacent deck.
 

 
This would later be printed out by the blueprint people and used to build the upper decks and their details.   
 
But the deck plans did not match the lift plans.  The rise in the sheer meant that deck C was located halfway up Lift 5 at the bow, but only halfway up Lift 4 at the stern.  Although the lifts would be somewhat imprecise, this was too much to adjust during construction.  So I took the master deck plan apart and, for Lift 4, married the forward section of the deck B plan to the aft section of the deck C plan.  The combined lift was then adjusted to the measured length of the lift from the cross-section.  This was a lot of work, but at the end I had a set of lift plans that I was confident were close to the dimensions and shapes needed for the hull.
 

 

 
You can also see where, for the two lowest lifts, I penciled in some extra material at the bow for the bulb at the keel.  This was done by eye and would be shaped according to the photographs, as I never did locate an acceptable plan that showed this feature.
 

 
Next time, I start cutting wood.
 
Be well
 
Dan 

Hi.
Well its the end of this build and its been a nice steady build.
Started in September 2013. with a couple of breaks IE summer holidays. Daughters wedding.
 
A few photos are in order..
 

 
The Enclosure is made from Fire resting poly-carbonate, as its Health and Safety thing.
Top .bottom and back are 12mm plywood.
 

 
There is also a Mirror at the back of the model..Gives it more depth. Doctor Who cheat.
 

 
The Red button is a press to make switch. and holds the power on for 30 seconds.
Lights that are in the Hold and Orlop deck flicker like oil lamps.
 

 
The two Dolphins are carved from Boxwood (not by me) . Local shop sells then cheap.
 

 

 

 
I did not put gravel into the hold in order to keep the weight down.
 

 

 
The drawings are bits that I had lying around.. They cover the plywood nicely.
 

 

 
The tape measure is showing the physical size of the enclosure
 

 
I really appreciate the help and encouragement you people have given me throughout this build.
I would also like to thank my friend Roy for supplying my with the timber for the build.
 
And of course the person who keeps everything running in the house while I have my head buried in the model. Marian.
 
And all the likes... There are soooooo many.
Any questions.. Please ask.
 
Regards Antony.
 
 
 

Hello,
 
the first bulwark is mow ready and the next is in progress.
 
Regards,
Siggi
 

 

 

Hi,
as previously announced here are the pictures from the removal of the boat shell.
Before removing the shell I've sanded the hull.
Sanding I was doing outdoors.

 
With great excitement and nervousness I loosened the screws.
 
I am satisfied with the result.

 

 

I have attached the garboard planks.  If the speed at which I installed these was an indicator as to my speed on this build in general, I'd say if I work on it daily, I'll be done some time in 2019. 
 
I looked through every single Longboat build log at other modelers successes and mistakes when shaping, bending and gluing the garboard planks.  I also printed Chuck's photo of the bottom of his Longboat showing a good view of the garboard plank.  I feel I got the shape as good as I can get it, and I'm happy with the way it mounted cleanly into the rabbet.
 

 

 

 

 
Erik

Karl, Mick, Cog and Greg, thanks for looking in.
Slowly but surely, the planking is completed.
I hope that it is the way I imagine it.

 

Has taken about 6 weeks to enjoy our vacation and then address some domestic and minor health issues.  But I've finally gotten the shipyard up and running once again.
 
Decided to finish up the guns on the QD.  There are only four 4 pounders due to the layout of the open decking.  Once again, the brass cannon were supplied by Chuck's Syren company and they're a perfect fit for the kit-supplied carraiges.  No need to detail the construction process again.
 

 

 
I need to finish up one railing on the QD before I move to the bow planking.  Will be operating on a reduced 'summer schedule' for a time......but it feels great to be back 'home'.
 
Here's hoping the summer has been going well for all those here up North. It's been fun following everyone's progress.
 
 
 
 

Thanks to all. The idea for making treenails with needle is not mine, I learned this method from russian modelers .
To rtropp: see enclosed picture - front side of the block with treenail is covered with masking tape, block is cuted off with saw. After removing tape you can easily eject treenails from the block.
After endless hours I finished the hull treenailing. Result will be more visible after waxing.

It looks like after getting the bugs worked out on that machine, it's taking quite a bit of the "fiddly" out of those tiny little bits Mark.  Glad you've got it tuned up and tweaked, so it works well for you.   

Fish Davit
 
The Fish Davit is used when pulling up the Anchor. The associated tackle literally is used to "fish" the anchor around the flukes and then haul the crown end up ready for stowing.
 
The davit is tapered by 3 scale inches on all four sides. A stop is cut into each end :
 

 

 
A handrope is fitted to enable the davit to be manhandled into position. Nine eyestrops hold the two ropes together by passing through the centre of the davit. These were a whole lot of fun to fit, as they have an eye in one end and the other end doubles back into the hole. A drop of PVA glue holds the doubled end in place :
 

 

 
 Danny

Think I'm now ready to pop the top on that cold beverage.
The finishing up of a ships hull planking has always been one of my favorite celebration mile stones.
 

Time to work on the pumps and cistern.  I had previously rough-shaped the hexagonal pump tubes and left them long for final shaping later.  There are four tubes that terminate in the cistern and in front of them are the two hand pumps.  Each of the tubes was cut to length based on the drawings in TFFM.  They were bored for insertion of the pistons later.  They have been dry-fit into their openings in the deck and main mast partners.  The nozzles for the hand pumps point 45o aft.  I did not have any metal supplies with me this week so they will be finished and permanently installed later.
 

 

 

 

 
The cisterns are relatively straightforward.  They are essentially boxes with two vertical side and two canted sides sitting on legs which are wider in the front than in the back.  There is a slot outboard for insertion of the pump dale and holes in the bottom for the pump tubes.  The outboard feet are taller than the inboard ones to compensate for the thickness of the mast partner.
 

 

 
There is a removable cowling which covers the pump wheel and chain assembly.  I have decided to make the port cowling and leave the starboard cistern uncovered to demonstrate the wheel and chain.  They still need to be detailed and I have not decided whether to show the pump dale.  Where would it be stored when not in use?
 

 

 
The cisterns are temporarily set in place behind the main mast.  There are a lot of structures in a very small space. 
 

 

 

 

Welcome on bord, Antony
 
The completion of the hull of my control model in the region behind the last frames has attracted much longer than expected.
When planning the last phase of the construction I realized that the body plan of the original drawing and therefore my reconstruction at the top of the last two frames is too narrow. So back to the drawing board and the frames 19 and 20 newly constructed. The hull at frames 20 is now about 1 mm wider in the region of maximum breath than originally. With the help of several buttok lines and the new water lines I have also redesigned the transoms

I haven't add all changes on the test hull, so you can see in the pictures the not entirely harmonious course of the lines.





The first step of my little project -the reconstruction of the lines- is complete.
In between, I have asked myself several times whether the construction of the half-model was even necessary. After the problems in the reconstruction of the transoms and fashion pieces, that define the shape of the stern, have identified, the construction of the test model was more than worth. I am happy to have the mistakes now and not found during the construction of the POF model.

In the next few weeks I'll construct keel, frames and all other components that are needed to build the hull. In autumn I like to start the construction of the POF model. Until then, one last picture which shows the side view of the test hull.
 

Hi Dirk,
 
many thanks.
 
I am working continuous on the planking of the long boat:
 

 

 

 

A busy day today, I started by redoing the steering stations , I then made the railing for the Port side. I then painted the Railings including the Rail on the Nav Tower a gloss red. I then made the Main sheet Traveler along with the winch box ( that sits forward of the Traveler) I then Painted the Traveler Flat Black and the Winch box White. I then laid out the Cockpit for the Grinders and steering stations. Next I installed a Volvo logo on the Cabin bulkhead, followed by the 2 forward Grinders the Winch box and Main Sheet Traveler. I then installed the 2 steering stations and lastly the Com Tower. The Cobham/Inmarsat along with the other com tower goodies are painted and ready for installation. Next will be to start Spar making. Here are the results

Hello there,
here I show you images where the first planks are attached.
 

 

Change of plans....
I decided to press on with completing the re-planking of the starboard side and be done with it.
 
Also decided to pass on this technique I'm using to cut the shape of the bow planks.
I found that the use of tracing paper to mark the shape proved to be very tricky because the paper tends to move around and doesn't like to lay flat for marking the edge.
 
This wide painters masking tape works great!

Note the markings on the hull indicating the measured width of the planks at several points along the strake.

Mid hull markings indicate the full width of each plank for the twenty strakes.
 
The marked masking tape is carefully trimmed along the traced line and then transferred to the paper planking material.

The marked planking strip is carefully trimmed along the traced edge (top)....
Then, after marking the exact width points, use a curve template to create the smooth contour of the outside edge (bottom).
Finally, cut the plank along the outside edge marking.

Perfect fit....

Finished re-planking port side hull below the main gun wale.
I used strips of 140 lb. water color paper.... Sprayed with gray primer and brushed three coats of white acrylic.... light sanding between each coat.

That's much more better....

Been a bit busy lately mixing work with pleasure.
 
Here's the result - A story of shipwreck drama featuring HMS Buffalo
 

Image: Paul Deacon