captainbob

No rich uncle I'm afraid. If there was one I'd be first in the queue.
 
You don't need to turn the blank down to fit in the chuck - just drill a hole in the centre, run a screw in and cut the head off. You can hold the smooth part of the shank of the screw in the chuck.
 
Rob

You’re going to have to build a diorama of a fishing dock to keep them all.  They all look good.
 
Bob

You’re going to have to build a diorama of a fishing dock to keep them all.  They all look good.
 
Bob

Thank you Russ and Shawn, We now join our regular program already in progress...... here are all the Muscongus Bay Boats from both build logs

And the San Juan Dory is completed . I think it turned out pretty good for a 2 day build. Here are the results

Just a quik update on the San Juan Dory, All the fairing is complete I added the Skeg and a nice piece of Birch Ply for the deck , Now its off to the Paint shop. here are the results

I have made the first hole in the hull, for the bow sprit. Now you can see her real lines for the first time.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hallelujah!
 
I think I finally broke the etched brass spell that's been standing in the way of progress on the Saginaw! 
 
I've been kind of down and out of doing a lot of shipmodeling the past couple weeks due to a pinched nerve or something in my neck and shoulder. For a while, I wasn't getting much sleep due to pain and that's left me tired all day – too much so to feel like sitting down and getting any work done with neck and shoulder pain. It's gotten much better since then, and while it's not totally gone, I've been able to get some things done.
 
Being a bit short of project motivation for a while, I decided to do a little technique research and worked a bit on just one aspect of photoetching brass, and just practiced prepping the metal and getting the artwork onto it. I did a bit of experimentation on exposure times under a lamp and took observations. Eventually, I worked my way back up to actually etching the brass and today I made the pieces that would form the basis for the circular skylights on the Saginaw.
 
 
 

Here's the exposed photoresist, all nice and cleanly adhered to the metal. This was the first major victory. I'd had problems with bubbled in the photoresist, what I thought was dirt and such. I found that keeping the metal and the photoresist very wet while sliding it into position made a big difference. Also, in the exposure process, the metal was getting hot and that was affecting the photoresist's adhesion and all. I found that getting the right sized lamp, getting the right distance and exposure time helped. Also, I found it best to let the project cool off after exposing one side, but before exposing the other side.
 
To improve evenness in the exposure, I also found a solar powered display turntable. I set the project on that under the lamp to expose the photoresist and the light powered turntable kept the whole thing slowly rotating and evening out the exposure across the work piece.
 
 

I made sure to warm up the etchant by placing the bottle in a bath of hot water. Even with the very chilly garage, this improves the efficiency of the etchant. I also made sure to start with a fresh bottle of etchant, and I'm very carefully making sure to mark the usage and track it very carefully. The resulting etch took less than 10 minutes. I made sure to remove the work piece at one point and rinse it, removing spent etchant with a brush, before returning it to the etchant bath to resume the process.
 
 

The pieces for the skylight were cut from the sheet and cleaned up. At this point, all the etching work has been done and now it's just a matter of using the parts to assemble them into something useful, and hoping I designed the part correctly.
 
 

In this case, the pieces are bent to shape and I cut off some thin rings from a 15/32" brass tube on my Sherline lathe. I glued these into place using a little thick CA in a couple spots to hold the pieces in alignment. I then glued each spoke to the ring using thin CA.
 
 

Finally, I trimmed off the excess lengths of spokes and filed them neatly. These will fit on top of the circular coamings I turned for them long ago.
 
Next step is to paint them and add the clear acetate windows. That will be a bit of a task, but after all the pain I've gone through relearning and redeveloping good technique for the brass etching, this should be a breeze!
 
I'm not sure if I'm going to try to put protective bars over the skylight windows or not. At this scale, they'd probably be around .005" and nearly invisible. If I put them on, I would mount them vertically and there would be maybe 3 per wedge-shaped window. I'm not sure what material I'd have that would be thin enough to work other than nylon fly tying thread.
 
Anyway, it's good to make progress on the Saginaw again. It's been neglected for far too long!
 
Clare

On Keel 4 today, I installed the ribbands and keel strips , then a quick check of the centerboard, To make sure the keel strips were not installed to tight around the centerboard box. And the Centerboard still works properly. Here are the results

Thanks, Pete, and welcome aboard. The more the merrier. 
 
Bob

I’ve been busy drawing the lines so I can start building. For those who have looked at the LoC drawings you know the two sides do not match, so I decided to try to average them, figuring that as one side went up the other went down.  I could have started with the table of offsets and averaged the two sides but putting that many numbers into Excel, converting them all to inches and then averaging them to come up with new offsets was a task I did not want to get into.  So I started by redrawing the lines given, averaging them as best as I could. Well I made the drawings and laid them over the inside drawings and they looked good.  Now it’s buy the wood and make sawdust.
 
Pictures soon, I hope.
 
Bob

Daniel, you are right, her jib is backed but at the time of this picture she was “outfitted to accommodate trainees on educational voyages.”  What can I say?
 
John, I have a ways to go before I have to decide.  I’ll have to see what it would look like.  A couple weeks ago I read that some historical group, I don’t remember who would not allow them to add the fore topmast.  I don’t remember why.
 
Thanks, Popeye.  Stick around it should get better.
 
Frankie, Thanks for the information, that’s good to know.
 
Nice looking schooner, Guy.  Hope the Lettie comes up to such standards.
 
Wayne, glad to have you aboard.
 
Bob

I’ve been busy drawing the lines so I can start building. For those who have looked at the LoC drawings you know the two sides do not match, so I decided to try to average them, figuring that as one side went up the other went down.  I could have started with the table of offsets and averaged the two sides but putting that many numbers into Excel, converting them all to inches and then averaging them to come up with new offsets was a task I did not want to get into.  So I started by redrawing the lines given, averaging them as best as I could. Well I made the drawings and laid them over the inside drawings and they looked good.  Now it’s buy the wood and make sawdust.
 
Pictures soon, I hope.
 
Bob

All are welcome. I only hope you will be entertained by this build.
 
Tom you are correct but when she was rebuilt the break was added and there are pictures that show where it is.  Meanwhile here she is under sail.
 
Bob
 
 

There comes a time when I am building a model that I start thinking about what to build next.  I had been thinking of a schooner so I started a web search and when I saw the HEAR drawings of the Lettie I knew she was my next build.  I plan to build it with the break in the deck as was typical of the Fredonia model schooners.  The HAER drawings do not show the break so more research was needed.
 
If you look at the drawings you will see that the Lettie was warped and one side was lower than the other and the stern was askew.  In redrawing the lines I straightened it out.  Hopefully the way it was when it was first built.
 
 
Here is a brief history.
 
Dimension as built 1893 as “Lettie G. Howard”
Length: 74.6 feet
Beam: 21 feet
Depth: 8.4 feet
Tonnage
Gross: 59.74
Net: 56.76
 
Dimension as rebuilt 1923 as “Mystic C.”
Length: 75.4 feet
Beam: 20.8 feet
Depth: 8.5 feet
Tonnage
Gross: 52.24
Net: 47
 
Designated a National Historic Landmark, the Lettie G. Howard is the last existing clipper-bowed “Fredonia model” inshore fishing schooner. Named for Captain Fred Howard’s daughter, the Lettie G. Howard fished near the coasts of Massachusetts and Maine. Built in 1893 in Essex, Massachusetts by Arthur D. Story, her hull was oak framed, planked with pine held in place by treenails. She originally carried topmasts on both fore and main masts.
 
E.E. Saunders and Co. of Pensacola, Florida purchased her in 1901 and fitted Lettie G. Howard for the Gulf of Mexico red snapper fishery. She was rebuilt in 1923 in Bay Point, Florida and renamed “Mystic C.” Changes included the removal of the break in the deck, and the addition of eight inches of false keel depth along 36 feet of the keel. Documentation after the rebuild also noted slight changes in overall dimensions. In 1924 she was fitted with a 36 horsepower auxiliary engine, necessitating a new stern post and rudder. Sometime later her topmasts and bowsprit were removed.
 
She was sold to the Historic Ships Associates of Boston, Massachusetts in 1967, who mistakenly renamed her Caviare, believing she was that former Gloucester schooner. The South Street Seaport Museum purchased her a year later and returned her to the original build name “Lettie G. Howard.”
 
Lettie G. Howard was included in the Historic American Engineering Record (HAER), which documents historically significant engineering, industrial, and maritime works in the U.S. The project is administered by the National Park Service, U.S. Department of the Interior. Lettie G. Howard was documented in 1989.  The HAER high resolution drawings are on the Library of Congress web site at 
http://www.loc.gov/pictures/search/?q=Drawing:%20ny1621&fi=number&op=PHRASE&va=exact&co%20=hh&st=gallery&sg%20=%20true.
 
The South Street Seaport Museum completely restored her between 1991 and 1993. Now in her original 1893 appearance, Lettie G. Howard is outfitted to accommodate trainees on educational voyages. In 1994 the U.S. Coast Guard certified her as a Sailing School Vessel, allowing her to carry students of all ages as a training ship.
In January 2012, Lettie G. Howard was dry docked at Mystic Seaport. Subsequent inspections found extensive rot in her keelson and foremast step, and she was put back in the water until enough money can be raised for the necessary repairs.

Finished the drill today, it is not quite as powerful as i would like but the drill works fine for those very small drills.
 
First picture shows the the additional ball race and flywheel.
 

 
The second shows the second to last sleeve which is the same diameter as the can motor the hole lines up with the locking hole in the flywheel and also the 2x56 set screw. The largest sleeve has a wooden end piece that the wires exit from .
 

 
last one show the # 80 drill and some holes in some boxwood, there is no vibration and it runs soothly.
 

 
All the tubes were assembled with loctite except the solid end brass keeper next to the chuck, which was soldered with soft solder..
 
All in all I am pleased with the salvage.
 
michael

At last, the planking is finished !
 
Now to fill the gaps and seal the hull inside and out. I am not going to be too keen to get a smooth perfect finish because these schooners were made of timber and therefore imperfect and I think a few irregularities make a hull look better than glass smooth, they give it character.
 

 

 

 
I am happy with the stern, it looks about right given pics I have seen
 

 

 
When I finished the planking and turnd her over I was surprised at how much bigger she looks from the inside that the outside, I may have to call her "The Tardis"
 

 
 

New Cockpit Part 2
 
The second cutter was not quite a successful as the first so a bit of handwork was needed to clean up the round, Basically I made it a bit too small.

 
I shaped a piece of .008" shim-stock to the aft curves on the deck hole to act a a platform to lay the boards while they set.
 

 
After they set one edge was trimmed on the disk sander .

 
This method is working well enough so on to the forward curves.
 
Michael
 
 

Below are a few more update pics of the partially sanded hull and a photo show video of the progress up to now that I posted to YouTube. More updates tp follow as soon as I get more done.
Video picture show build log on YouTube:

On Keel 4, I got all the frames and the transom attached ,and stained the bow side of frame 1 (i did not like the way it looked in the photos from this morning) next, I will bevel the rabbet line (bow) install the ribbands and keel strip. Here are the results

The Plan was to show you a finished Keel 1, Instead My Wife informed me that there are 12 Days till Christmas,( and I have not got anything for my Father in law ) He's a bigtime Fisherman so I decided to build him The 16 foot San Jaun Dory. I am building it in a 3/8" = 1'-0" , Its a very quik project (so I wasnt going to do another build Log) so kind of a build log in a build log (about 2 days) I used the magazine page (from Wooden Boat) as the plans, here are the results

All are welcome. I only hope you will be entertained by this build.
 
Tom you are correct but when she was rebuilt the break was added and there are pictures that show where it is.  Meanwhile here she is under sail.
 
Bob
 
 

There comes a time when I am building a model that I start thinking about what to build next.  I had been thinking of a schooner so I started a web search and when I saw the HEAR drawings of the Lettie I knew she was my next build.  I plan to build it with the break in the deck as was typical of the Fredonia model schooners.  The HAER drawings do not show the break so more research was needed.
 
If you look at the drawings you will see that the Lettie was warped and one side was lower than the other and the stern was askew.  In redrawing the lines I straightened it out.  Hopefully the way it was when it was first built.
 
 
Here is a brief history.
 
Dimension as built 1893 as “Lettie G. Howard”
Length: 74.6 feet
Beam: 21 feet
Depth: 8.4 feet
Tonnage
Gross: 59.74
Net: 56.76
 
Dimension as rebuilt 1923 as “Mystic C.”
Length: 75.4 feet
Beam: 20.8 feet
Depth: 8.5 feet
Tonnage
Gross: 52.24
Net: 47
 
Designated a National Historic Landmark, the Lettie G. Howard is the last existing clipper-bowed “Fredonia model” inshore fishing schooner. Named for Captain Fred Howard’s daughter, the Lettie G. Howard fished near the coasts of Massachusetts and Maine. Built in 1893 in Essex, Massachusetts by Arthur D. Story, her hull was oak framed, planked with pine held in place by treenails. She originally carried topmasts on both fore and main masts.
 
E.E. Saunders and Co. of Pensacola, Florida purchased her in 1901 and fitted Lettie G. Howard for the Gulf of Mexico red snapper fishery. She was rebuilt in 1923 in Bay Point, Florida and renamed “Mystic C.” Changes included the removal of the break in the deck, and the addition of eight inches of false keel depth along 36 feet of the keel. Documentation after the rebuild also noted slight changes in overall dimensions. In 1924 she was fitted with a 36 horsepower auxiliary engine, necessitating a new stern post and rudder. Sometime later her topmasts and bowsprit were removed.
 
She was sold to the Historic Ships Associates of Boston, Massachusetts in 1967, who mistakenly renamed her Caviare, believing she was that former Gloucester schooner. The South Street Seaport Museum purchased her a year later and returned her to the original build name “Lettie G. Howard.”
 
Lettie G. Howard was included in the Historic American Engineering Record (HAER), which documents historically significant engineering, industrial, and maritime works in the U.S. The project is administered by the National Park Service, U.S. Department of the Interior. Lettie G. Howard was documented in 1989.  The HAER high resolution drawings are on the Library of Congress web site at 
http://www.loc.gov/pictures/search/?q=Drawing:%20ny1621&fi=number&op=PHRASE&va=exact&co%20=hh&st=gallery&sg%20=%20true.
 
The South Street Seaport Museum completely restored her between 1991 and 1993. Now in her original 1893 appearance, Lettie G. Howard is outfitted to accommodate trainees on educational voyages. In 1994 the U.S. Coast Guard certified her as a Sailing School Vessel, allowing her to carry students of all ages as a training ship.
In January 2012, Lettie G. Howard was dry docked at Mystic Seaport. Subsequent inspections found extensive rot in her keelson and foremast step, and she was put back in the water until enough money can be raised for the necessary repairs.

the last segment is cut and cemented in place......even though there is a 1/32 difference,  it looks much better.
 

 

 

 
I am thinking of using some .5mm strips to make up the difference.  it would cover those nasty seams and it would look a bit better.  I ran a center line down the middle.
 

 

 
I have some 5mm wide strips.......but then I thought of the dark mahogany strips I have.   these strips are an inch wide {about 25 mm}......the insert is about 5 inches wide.  it will save me from dealing with all those smaller strips.
 

 

 
not to worry about that cover I wasted my time on.........I'll put it to good use......somewhere 
 

All are welcome. I only hope you will be entertained by this build.
 
Tom you are correct but when she was rebuilt the break was added and there are pictures that show where it is.  Meanwhile here she is under sail.
 
Bob