wefalck

The contrast between brass and mahagony is always apealing, but I gather, beying 'under water' it will all be painted? Would be a pity for such lovely craftmanship to disappear under paint.

Just wondering, why not using an archimedian mini drill? My Dremel is not always the best solution, even with the Workstation because it is too fast even with 5,000 rpm and unfortunately there is no reduction gearbox available to lower the rpm below 5,000 rpm. Then I use an archimedian mini drill, I have issues with a standard manual mini drill to turn it all the times, which I jst push down all the times very gentle...
 

 
Works for me very well but I have to admit, when possible I use the Dremel ^^
 
Micha

Looks like the thingy that was given to me by my wife with good intentions, but I found the speed too high for most practical purposes. Mine has three speed settings, but it starts from the highest and then steps down.
 
With all battery-operated equipment it has the disadvantage that one cannot start and stop it free-hand, i.e. with a foot-switch ...
 
Do the inserts have the usual 2.34 mm diameter shaft?

Thank you Andy and John.
 
I spent a few hours today completing the rudder (excluding finishes).
 
The shaft is 0.16" diameter while the plate is .04" thick. I therefore needed to machine slots in the the cladding 0.08" radius by  0.06" deep. See blue arrows on next photo. I also cut the plate along the line of the shaft removing a .016" wide strip.
 

The brass pieces were then assembled on the cladding and glued in place using CA glue.


The other side of the gladding was then glued in place forming a brass sandwich.


The rudder is fitted with anodes. All the anodes on Cangarda are of the same flat plate type.  I drilled the holes for later anode attachment.

To get the taper sanding of the cladding symmetrical I employed a flat sheet of aluminium oxide paper and a bulldog clip.

The bulldog clip is holding the front of the rudder clear of the sandpaper and at a constant angle while the taper is sanded. The bulldog clip spring is hard enough to resist the abrasion of the oxide paper. The taper on the front edge of the rudder was formed in a similar manner.



My plan is to get on to the planking next. I expect it to be a long job so if you want to skip it I suggest you rejoin in about 2 months.
 

Hello again everyone, it has been way too long since my last update. I have been busy, I have just been dealing with computer problems. My old laptop decided to give up the ghost so I had to purchase a new one. Well after being a Windows guy for 30 years, I finally converted to the dark side and got a Mac. I knew there would be a learning curve to get used to a new style of computering, but it took me little longer than I had planned to get things moved over from my old laptop and figure out how to use the new style of apps. But I persevered and finally got it all moved over and I am ready to go. So pull up a chair, grab a drink and get ready for a major photo dump of progress.
 
So on my last update I was having difficulty trying to solder my railings and had decided to go with the styrene method. While I pondered how to do the small railing on top of the pilothouse, I worked on the lower sections of railing. Here is the railing that surrounds the pilothouse going together.
I couldn't get the small jig that I had previously made up to get a consistent results, and I was having a hard time getting the stanchions to stand straight up. So I made up a different jig that had slots cut in at the correct spacing and clamped the two halves together. This held the vertical stanchions perfectly upright and steady while I glued the top rail in place. Once this section was complete I removed the section of railing, placed it on my mat then used a small piece of scrap wood cut to the correct spacing to add the lower rail. I forgot to take pictures of this part, but in the next picture you can see a couple of the pieces of scrap wood on the railing show how it was spaced.

More of the lower deck railings.

 
Then it was on to the smaller railing. I took @KeithAug advice of making a jig with my Xtool to frame up the ladder as a test piece. 
So far so good. Then I cut the brass rod pieces and placed them into the jig.

 
I decided to give the solder paste a try, and it didn't let me down. This was so much easier than trying to flux and solder the pieces together in the jig.


After a little filing and cleanup I am very pleased with the outcome.

 
Since the ladder was a success, I decided to use the solder paste on the pilothouse railing. For this one, I made up another jig that gave me the proper spacing for the height of the rail and soldered each stanchion one by one.

Again, I am completely satisfied with the results. Now I'll just need to tie the ladder in with the railing, but that will have to come once I get the decks secured in place.

 
After competing the railing, it was time to work on the hull features. I wanted to get everything on the underside of the hull done so I could get it mounted to a temporary base and work on everything upright. So I started with the Korts and wheels. On my previous post I had already cut and shaped the Korts and temp mounted them in place. Now it was time to install the fairings where they tie to the hull. Nothing out of the ordinary here, just cut a few pieces of wood sheets to match the contour of the Korts and hull.

Then I made a couple of plugs with centering holes so that I knew where to align the wheel shafts.

The centering plugs also helped me mark where the wheel shafts will penetrate the hull.

Once the penetration points were marked, it was time to do a little drilling.

Wheel shafts temp installed to test their alignment.

Then the wheel shafts were cut and mock wheels made to make sure that I had the centering and clearances correct.

 
Once the holes were drilled and the shafts cut, it was time to work on the shaft supports. I cut out several pieces to layer up the supports and carve them down.

Three layers was just about right, now its time to carve them down.

Roughly shaped, and testing the fit.

This is the look that I am going for.

 
On to the wheels. I used the mock patterns that I had previously made to align each blade. I made the hub in the same manner that I made the supports. I cut out several layers  and sanded them to shape. I didn't take pictures of this process as well, but you can see end results of the hubs in this photo. I then cut out another pattern of the wheels and separated the blades from the hub and proceeded to glue them at the proper angle on the shaped hubs.

One of the completed wheels.

And temp installed in the Kort. Just a little sanding, shaping and paint and they should be good.

 
Next it was time to work on the rudders. I started with the main rudders. These were cut from pieces of wood sheeting. I didn't have any materials thick enough for the completed rudder so I layered these as well. Here is the initial shape. 

The two layers glued together.

Shaping to get the correct contour. 

 
Rudders temp installed to test their alignment. I also threw in another little detail with the addition of a galvanic anodes. These were place in various places along the hull, rudder and Korts to help with corrosion prevention.
 
Time for the flanking rudders. Same process, these were also cut out of wood sheets, but there is not any contour to these. They are fairly flat and need to have a narrow profile since they are rarely used when the boat is going forward. This low profile reduces drag and prevents the disruption of water flow through the Korts. There is some cross bracing to help stabilize any flex from the water flowing across it. Here is the initial pattern.

Cross bracing installed.

More bracing. This is used to streamline the water flow around the rudder shaft.

More galvanic anodes installed on these rudders as well. 

All four rudders completed.

While perusing the internet for more study material I ran across an another little detail that was built into the boats. I'm not sure what it's called and my searches were coming up empty, but that is not saying much because its sometimes hard to look something up if you don't know what to call it. Anyway, I noticed from some of the videos of towboats in dry dock that there was this fairing attached to aft section of the hull. My best guess is that its purpose is to help keep the turbulent water from coming over the aft deck. So I glued on a thin strip of wood and installed these very tiny gussets cut from .020 ABS sheets.
 
Here are the gussets.

Gussets going in.

The finished fairing
 
 
Time to get it all premiered up and ready for some paint.

And more galvanic anodes going in.


Next up was the installation of the coil coolers. These were radiators of sorts installed on the hull sides that uses river water to cool copper fins that circulate engine and clutch oil through. The coolers are mounted recessed in the hull and a protective grill installed on the outside to protect the fins from river debris.
 
Here are the cooling fins that I cut out on the laser cutter.

Recesses cut into the hull for the cooling fins.

Fins installed in the hull


Here is the protective grill alongside the hull and coolers. These will get attached after the hull is painted and the cooler fins coated with a touch of copper paint.

Painting of the hull, wheels and rudders.


 
Flanking rudders installed.

Main rudders temp installed to test for clearance.

Port rudders aligned

All rudders installed and anodes painted up.

Up close shots showing details.


 
Time to flip it over and install the coil cooler guards. It wasn't until I posted this photo that I noticed the gap in the wood planks on the hull. I'll need to go back and fix that.

 
Here she is in her correct, upright position with all decks sitting in place.

 
One final feature that was almost completed that I wanted to add to this update was the construction of the stacks.
 
I started with a basic framework of a base and top with a center support to maintain the correct height of the stacks.

Then it was time to cover the frame with strips of wood. Here is the first strip going in.

More progress. Starting to take shape.

Completely covered with a light sanding to smooth out the edges of the planks.

Here is the cap and fairing that will sit on top of the stack

The two pieces assembled.

And the cap installed on the stack and a final sanding.

Both stacks completed and temp installed.

Another view. I will take these and cover them with some body filler to fill in the gaps and give the top pairing its final shape. Hopefully that will be done by my next update .

 
Well that is it for this update, I hope to be a little more timely with my next one. Thank you all for sticking with me on this and stopping by. As always I appreciate all the kind words and input.
 
-Brian
 

Looks worse than rigging a miniature ship model ...

Looks worse than rigging a miniature ship model ...

Looks worse than rigging a miniature ship model ...

Looks worse than rigging a miniature ship model ...

Looks worse than rigging a miniature ship model ...

Today, I managed a very dreaded step in the build, finishing the mid section of the upper wing. Before, I added rigging wires from the nacelles through the cabane struts and later to be fixed under the upper wing, therefore they are not taught.



WNW tells you to install the cabane struts first, reaching diagonally from the fuselage, which makes perfect sense, but then let you put the inner struts from the top of the fuselage to the gas tank in the middle of the upper wing to be glued into it´s wing fitting and then last into the fuselage.



I didn´t like that second part like shown here in the manual and preferred to have all strut gluing to make on the upper wing, which worked good. Alignment was not easy, but now all looks more or less straight.


 
Cheers Rob

Well, the sleeves around the smoke stacks are not just 'decorative': in order ensure sufficient draft, the smoke-stacks have to long, but then would cool down quickly. The sleeve isolates the actual smoke-stack, so that it stays hot.
 
As even the sleeves become quite hot and old-time oil paints did not take the heat very well, ship company logos were painted onto an outer sleeve, some distance from the the sleeve that housed-in the smoke-stacks.
 
Normally, the engine-exhausts are led into a condenser to improve fuel-economy. Some ships may have had the possibility to redirect the exhausts temporarily into the smoke-stack to increase draft (as is done on railway locomotives), but more commonly fans were used.
 
The pipes placed behind or in front of the smoke-stacks are normally the exhausts for the safety-valves.
 
Talking about pilot-houses open to the back: over here in Europe, when the pilot-house began to be enclosed, crews on some ships complained, because previously they got warmth from the radiating smoke-stacks, but now they were cold in the enclosed, but unheated pilot-houses ...
 
 

P.S. just asked the colleague from which manufacturers his figures came ... here his answer:
 
The figures were from 
- Scale 75
- Altores Studio
- Romeo Models
- Pegaso Models
- Mercury Models
- Revolution Miniatures
 
So you have to check on the WWW what is available currently.
 

Talking about other people's projects: there is German colleague, I just remembered, who build a Viking-ship (the HAVHINGSTEN after one of the replicas after the Roskilde finds) in 1:25 scale and he had a whole boatload of 'Vikings' (or what he declared to be such). Not sure, whether you can see this without registering: https://www.segelschiffsmodellbau.com/t6718f20-Havhingsten-fra-Glendalough-21.html. He did a really good job in painting those figures.

Thank you Richard and Pat.
 
Gary - She says it is her greatest pleasure to be my forever financial burden. She also says my efforts are earning points which will influence her when choosing the quality of retirement home she will be putting me into when I can no longer look after myself. 
 
And so on to the rudder.
 
I started with a brass sheet .040" thick.
 

I drilled a number of holes at the centre of the various edge curves. I also turned up some filing buttons - blue arrows.

I cut away the waste brass and using the buttons I filed the edge curves. 


The rudder is profiled / streamlined although the front and rear edges are blunt.

The outer rudder shaft was made from brass tube with bearing ferrules at the upper and lower ends. The ferrules are drilled .040" diameter to take the fixed inner bearing shaft.

The small upper section shaft was made in a similar way. Below all 3 parts are assembled.


I will form the outer shape of the rudder by attaching mahogany to each side and then sanding to shape. Below the mahogany "cladding" has been cut and glued prior to attaching to the rudder shaft.

That's all for now.

By accident I chanced upon this YouTube film again last night: https://youtu.be/6QMtyl8aycI?si=9dMvRd8OdXucNWSK
 

By accident I chanced upon this YouTube film again last night: https://youtu.be/6QMtyl8aycI?si=9dMvRd8OdXucNWSK
 

By accident I chanced upon this YouTube film again last night: https://youtu.be/6QMtyl8aycI?si=9dMvRd8OdXucNWSK
 

P.S. just asked the colleague from which manufacturers his figures came ... here his answer:
 
The figures were from 
- Scale 75
- Altores Studio
- Romeo Models
- Pegaso Models
- Mercury Models
- Revolution Miniatures
 
So you have to check on the WWW what is available currently.
 

By accident I chanced upon this YouTube film again last night: https://youtu.be/6QMtyl8aycI?si=9dMvRd8OdXucNWSK
 

By accident I chanced upon this YouTube film again last night: https://youtu.be/6QMtyl8aycI?si=9dMvRd8OdXucNWSK
 

Well, the sleeves around the smoke stacks are not just 'decorative': in order ensure sufficient draft, the smoke-stacks have to long, but then would cool down quickly. The sleeve isolates the actual smoke-stack, so that it stays hot.
 
As even the sleeves become quite hot and old-time oil paints did not take the heat very well, ship company logos were painted onto an outer sleeve, some distance from the the sleeve that housed-in the smoke-stacks.
 
Normally, the engine-exhausts are led into a condenser to improve fuel-economy. Some ships may have had the possibility to redirect the exhausts temporarily into the smoke-stack to increase draft (as is done on railway locomotives), but more commonly fans were used.
 
The pipes placed behind or in front of the smoke-stacks are normally the exhausts for the safety-valves.
 
Talking about pilot-houses open to the back: over here in Europe, when the pilot-house began to be enclosed, crews on some ships complained, because previously they got warmth from the radiating smoke-stacks, but now they were cold in the enclosed, but unheated pilot-houses ...
 
 

By accident I chanced upon this YouTube film again last night: https://youtu.be/6QMtyl8aycI?si=9dMvRd8OdXucNWSK
 

Sure, he is still active, but indeed hasn't made much progress in recent years on the bone-model. Perhaps, because he is rather busy as the editor of the LOGBUCH, the quarterly of our German equivalent to the NRG.

Well, the sleeves around the smoke stacks are not just 'decorative': in order ensure sufficient draft, the smoke-stacks have to long, but then would cool down quickly. The sleeve isolates the actual smoke-stack, so that it stays hot.
 
As even the sleeves become quite hot and old-time oil paints did not take the heat very well, ship company logos were painted onto an outer sleeve, some distance from the the sleeve that housed-in the smoke-stacks.
 
Normally, the engine-exhausts are led into a condenser to improve fuel-economy. Some ships may have had the possibility to redirect the exhausts temporarily into the smoke-stack to increase draft (as is done on railway locomotives), but more commonly fans were used.
 
The pipes placed behind or in front of the smoke-stacks are normally the exhausts for the safety-valves.
 
Talking about pilot-houses open to the back: over here in Europe, when the pilot-house began to be enclosed, crews on some ships complained, because previously they got warmth from the radiating smoke-stacks, but now they were cold in the enclosed, but unheated pilot-houses ...