wefalck

A seldom seen subject here. As I have a soft spot for those boats from the Venice lagoon and I will follow the progress. That book has been sitting on my shelf also for some time now - I think I bought in the bookshop 'Carta di Mare' in Venice or from Gilberto Penzo.
 
The 'Padiglione delle Barche' of the Museo Storico Navale in Venice preserve a couple of Bragozzi from the late 19th/early 20th century: https://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org/maritime/venezia/museonavalevenezia-3.html. I took a few pictures in case one day I also want to build one.
 
 
 
 
 

These are some models of Adriatic Sea boats that I have made. The sails carry the colors of the localities or the owners....

A seldom seen subject here. As I have a soft spot for those boats from the Venice lagoon and I will follow the progress. That book has been sitting on my shelf also for some time now - I think I bought in the bookshop 'Carta di Mare' in Venice or from Gilberto Penzo.
 
The 'Padiglione delle Barche' of the Museo Storico Navale in Venice preserve a couple of Bragozzi from the late 19th/early 20th century: https://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org/maritime/venezia/museonavalevenezia-3.html. I took a few pictures in case one day I also want to build one.
 
 
 
 
 

A seldom seen subject here. As I have a soft spot for those boats from the Venice lagoon and I will follow the progress. That book has been sitting on my shelf also for some time now - I think I bought in the bookshop 'Carta di Mare' in Venice or from Gilberto Penzo.
 
The 'Padiglione delle Barche' of the Museo Storico Navale in Venice preserve a couple of Bragozzi from the late 19th/early 20th century: https://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org/maritime/venezia/museonavalevenezia-3.html. I took a few pictures in case one day I also want to build one.
 
 
 
 
 

A seldom seen subject here. As I have a soft spot for those boats from the Venice lagoon and I will follow the progress. That book has been sitting on my shelf also for some time now - I think I bought in the bookshop 'Carta di Mare' in Venice or from Gilberto Penzo.
 
The 'Padiglione delle Barche' of the Museo Storico Navale in Venice preserve a couple of Bragozzi from the late 19th/early 20th century: https://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org/maritime/venezia/museonavalevenezia-3.html. I took a few pictures in case one day I also want to build one.
 
 
 
 
 

A seldom seen subject here. As I have a soft spot for those boats from the Venice lagoon and I will follow the progress. That book has been sitting on my shelf also for some time now - I think I bought in the bookshop 'Carta di Mare' in Venice or from Gilberto Penzo.
 
The 'Padiglione delle Barche' of the Museo Storico Navale in Venice preserve a couple of Bragozzi from the late 19th/early 20th century: https://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org/maritime/venezia/museonavalevenezia-3.html. I took a few pictures in case one day I also want to build one.
 
 
 
 
 

I gather the fact that the stirrups are slightly curved seems to indicate that they were made from wire rope.
 
You can slightly soak stirrups and footropes in fast drying varnish and hold them in shape, while the varnish dries. Use solvent-based varnish, so that you can soften the arrangement, if you are not happy with it at the first go.
 

Hello All,
 
I use my Proxxon micro-mill a lot when it comes to precise shaping of wooden parts. The complete setup consists of a MB 200 drill stand, a MICRO compound table KT 70 and a 230V ISB/E drill/grinder.
 

 
One of my frustrations with this setup is keeping track of the position of the end mill relative to the workpiece. How many turns did I already gave in the X or Y direction? Of course each decent mill is equipped with a Digital ReadOut system (DRO).
 

 
But adding such hardware to the KT 70 is not obvious, especially because the KT 70 is a ‘MICRO’ xy-table. I also didn’t want to spend a lot of money on it, so I parked it in a wish list. But then I saw that digital calipers were sold at 7.99 euro in a supermarket. I couldn't resist and bought 2 calipers guided by ‘it’s now or never’.
 

 
So I will describe here the process of adding these calipers to the KT 70. It is certainly not the only way to do it but it is what worked for me. And maybe it can inspire other members. So lets start.
 

 
The first thing is to dismount the complete caliper. Then the metal parts need some cuts.
 

 

 
I used a small hacksaw but soon experienced that the metal was quite hard and I had to replace the saw-blade twice before finishing the job.
 

 
I was afraid that these cuts would disturb the measurement principle. I quick check gave me piece of mind.
 

 
Then you have to decide where you want to attach the ruler part of the caliper and where the readout unit. After some puzzling, I decided to position the readout units close to the respective hand-wheels. The ruler then needs to be attached to a moving part of the xy-table. For the Y-direction I will use a 3 mm dowel pin glued in a filed grove at the ruler end.
 

 

 
To mount that Y-ruler as low as possible, a small cut had to be made at the right front corner of the xy-table.
 

 
This way the Y-ruler can be positioned horizontal as the check on the next picture illustrates.
 

 
Next the Y-readout needs a support. I found a complex metal (zamac) part that could be used when all excess material was cut away.
 

 

 
It will be fixed in place using the right screw (original screw replaced by a longer one) in the lower cover.
That is enough work for today, have a nice evening and see you back soon.
 
Best regards,
 
Kris

Hello,
 
The next thing is to make a hole at the right of the cast aluminium block where the dowel pin will be inserted. I made a quite complex setup to drill that 3 mm hole as correct as possible. First job was the fixation of the xy-table to my work surface and checking its squareness (see the next picture).
 

 
Then a rather unusual setup for my drill press where the base was turned to the back and using a counterweight to stabilize the drill press.
 

 
That went well and the dowel pin fits with very little play.
 

 
As a last adaption for the Y-readout, I soldered some wires to the metal battery clips in order to power the readout from a power supply. That should avoid battery replacements in the future.
 

 
The X-DRO was made following the same principles but the ruler will be fixed to the mill table with a support instead of a pin. The next picture shows the readout already prepared with wiring, the ruler and both supports. You may notice that I cut away some plastic at the battery location to bring the readout as close as possible to the X-table side.
 

 
Then the supports need to be fixed. The ruler support is attached to the mill table.
 

 

 

 
With the threaded hole for the readout support I had bad luck.
 

 
The M3 tap broke off but there was just enough of it sticking out so that I could remove it with a good forceps.
 

 
The next picture shows the parts of the X-DRO ready for glueing to the mounted supports.
 

 
Then with some metal epoxy glue all parts are glued, compressed and left for 24 hours to allow the epoxy to cure to its final strength.
 

 
As a last addition I soldered the wiring to a small step down converter that will supply the 3V DC for both readouts.
 

 
At the back is now a connector that mates with an old 12V DC supply of a laptop. Here is the finished KT 70 with its added DRO.
 

 
Next time I will try to report on some test regarding the precision of this setup.
 
Best regards,
 
Kris

A seldom seen subject here. As I have a soft spot for those boats from the Venice lagoon and I will follow the progress. That book has been sitting on my shelf also for some time now - I think I bought in the bookshop 'Carta di Mare' in Venice or from Gilberto Penzo.
 
The 'Padiglione delle Barche' of the Museo Storico Navale in Venice preserve a couple of Bragozzi from the late 19th/early 20th century: https://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org/maritime/venezia/museonavalevenezia-3.html. I took a few pictures in case one day I also want to build one.
 
 
 
 
 

Another update: rigging is almost done. All that can be attached to the masts off model is finished. Remains „only“ to do the lower attachment points on deck. How to attach the signal lines on the foremast to the bridge without tearing everything apart is still a mystery to me though…🤪. Looks a bit wild now but once straigthened out it should be ok,..i hope.
cheers sascha

A seldom seen subject here. As I have a soft spot for those boats from the Venice lagoon and I will follow the progress. That book has been sitting on my shelf also for some time now - I think I bought in the bookshop 'Carta di Mare' in Venice or from Gilberto Penzo.
 
The 'Padiglione delle Barche' of the Museo Storico Navale in Venice preserve a couple of Bragozzi from the late 19th/early 20th century: https://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org/maritime/venezia/museonavalevenezia-3.html. I took a few pictures in case one day I also want to build one.
 
 
 
 
 

First images of the works .....

For a few days now I have been working on the model of the bragozzo. It is a self-built sailing ship with the help of Marzari's beautiful monograph on this type of Adriatic boats. The hull is about 52 cm long and is on a scale of 1:24.

The laying of the first planking ...

Other strips of the first planking .....

Greetings!
Work continues on the main dock.

The knots in the boards were randomly placed after the boards were glued to the beams. When all the boards are down, they will be given a wash with A/E to darken the knots. I decided to lay the planks to the red line (see photo, last post). I put together a scale 40-foot flat car and the trucks run quite smoothly over the tacks with the wood placed so. I also like the look of the track "buried" in the deck. Here are a few photos.



And finally, the main building on the foundation beams and the deck. Some wood scraps were used beneath the foundation and the various platforms to get them all at the correct height.







I need to straighten the rod at the top of the cupola as it seems to be off in one axis.
Next up,  2 small sheds and the saw shed.

jeff
 
 

Everything you need to know about gondole and other Venetian boats: https://www.veniceboats.com. Gilberto Penzo also has a little shop in Venice, where he sells his books, the plans and the kits he has designed.
 

If you are sailing before the wind, the boom would have to swing out as much as the shrouds permit ... the gaff may be steadied by guys, but not all ships had them.
 
The flag-halliards seem to have been run in a somewhat haphazard fashion, whatever was deemed to be convenient at the time. Thus, I have seen many contemporary images, where the halliard is let down to a cleat or belaying pin at the aft bulwark. Another option is a cleat on the boom. In general, the halliard is somewhat inclined forward, so that the flag unfolds and it recognisable when there is no wind.

I haven't build anything with decals since about 1980*, I think. Decal technology must have advanced considerably since then.
If I understand the process correctly, then you can apply the 'softener' to already set decals in order to coerce them around obstacles?
I am asking this question, because I just had the idea of laser-printing flags onto decal-sheet and then apply the decals on both sides to a piece of aluminium foil cut to the right size. With this softening and drying technique, the aluminium foil with the decals on could be 'draped' realistically. Does this sound feasible?
 
*apart from the white boot-topping above the waterline that I put onto my current project, for which I used thin strips of white decal-sheet.

If you are sailing before the wind, the boom would have to swing out as much as the shrouds permit ... the gaff may be steadied by guys, but not all ships had them.
 
The flag-halliards seem to have been run in a somewhat haphazard fashion, whatever was deemed to be convenient at the time. Thus, I have seen many contemporary images, where the halliard is let down to a cleat or belaying pin at the aft bulwark. Another option is a cleat on the boom. In general, the halliard is somewhat inclined forward, so that the flag unfolds and it recognisable when there is no wind.

If you are sailing before the wind, the boom would have to swing out as much as the shrouds permit ... the gaff may be steadied by guys, but not all ships had them.
 
The flag-halliards seem to have been run in a somewhat haphazard fashion, whatever was deemed to be convenient at the time. Thus, I have seen many contemporary images, where the halliard is let down to a cleat or belaying pin at the aft bulwark. Another option is a cleat on the boom. In general, the halliard is somewhat inclined forward, so that the flag unfolds and it recognisable when there is no wind.

If you are sailing before the wind, the boom would have to swing out as much as the shrouds permit ... the gaff may be steadied by guys, but not all ships had them.
 
The flag-halliards seem to have been run in a somewhat haphazard fashion, whatever was deemed to be convenient at the time. Thus, I have seen many contemporary images, where the halliard is let down to a cleat or belaying pin at the aft bulwark. Another option is a cleat on the boom. In general, the halliard is somewhat inclined forward, so that the flag unfolds and it recognisable when there is no wind.

Wooden flooring on the rostra.

Details of the bow superstructure.