albert

Happy New Year 
 

Another photo

Another photo
 

Happy New Year 
 

Happy New Year 
 

Happy New Year 
 

Happy New Year 
 

Happy New Year 
 

Another photo

Happy New Year 
 

Happy New Year 
 

Happy New Year 
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 260 – Clew Garnets, Tacks, Lazy Tacks
 
Clew garnets were used to pull the lower corners of the sail up to the bunt when furling.  Blocks for these lines were shackled together with the sheet blocks, tacks and lazy sheet/tacks.  These shackles were attached to iron clue rings or cringles on the sail.  For these lower sails, this was done on deck before the sail package was hauled aloft.  On the no-sails model the sheets, tacks and lazy tacks are suspended from the clew garnets.  The sheets will be added later.
 
Sheets were used to restrain the clews of the sail, the tacks to haul it forward when braced, and the lazy tacks to help control the sail when shifting from sheets to tacks.  On the model these lines are tensioned in a way that will position the shackled blocks and eventually allow the sheets to drape gracefully.  The first picture shows these lines rigged.
 

 
The clew garnets are shackled to an eye under the yard.  The line then passes through block on the shackle, back through the forward sheave of the double quarter block hooked under the yard, then down to the fife rail.  The lines that go directly down from the shackle to the pin rail are the 4" lazy tacks.  These would be belayed at any convenient location.  The line slanting forward to its cleat on the cathead is the 5" tack.  Both these lines had their eyes at the shackle formed in place.  The tail of one has not yet been clipped off in this picture.  The next picture shows a close-up of the shackle on the starboard side.
 

 
The larger, empty sheet block is to the left of the shackle. The next picture shows the fife rail with the clew garnet belayed on the first pin.
 

 
I finally decided to re-order the pins, moving the topping lift falls back to the third pin and the reef tackle fall to the second.  This avoids crossing lines.  The topsail sheet falls have also now been run through the outer sheaves on the sheet bitts and are temporarily belayed.  I may move these to the inner sheave.  The next picture shows the run of the tacks to the cathead cleats.
 

 
And finally, the belaying of the lazy tack on the first pin of the main pin rail.
 

 
The lines on pin 3, 4, and 5 are the two buntlines and the leechline.  
 
Ed      

Before moving on with the standing rigging, I made the two topmasts and mounted them. The masts were made from dowels with the lower ends filed flat, strip wood pieces added to build up a flat square and a portion filed to an eight sided section. The upper ends were tapered, a shoulder cut in and sheaves drilled in. Fids were run through the square lower section.
 
 I then did the mainstay, the main topmast stay, the fore topmast stay, the jib stay and the jibboom horses.
 
The two mainmast stays run through a double block on the foremast cap and then down through tackles to eyebolts on the deck at the mast. The tackles were not tied off at this time.
 
The fore topmast stay is seized to the mast at it's top and to the jibboom at it's bottom.
 
The jib stay runs from the head of the foremast, through a traveler on the jibboom , then through a sheave on the jibboom, and ends in a tackle attached to an eyebolt on the bowsprit cap. That tackle won't be tied off until later. The traveler was made from a piece of wire, a brass shackle from my stock, and a Syren hook.
 
The horses were made by doing small knots in a piece of line that was then seized to the jibboom end and to eyebolts at the cap.
 
Bob

Hi Patrick very nice work.

Great beautiful work Marsalv.

Thank you all for continuing to follow this slow build. As soon as the restoration of Albertic is done I will be getting back to the cutter, meanwhile she is now safely sitting in waiting in a quiet part of the workshop
 

 
Merry Christmas everyone.
 
Michael

I was able to pick up the case I had made by Speciality Plastics in Hamilton Ohio.  It was nice to be able to save on the shipping costs.  I opted for the mdf base instead of the black or white acrylic base.  Now I have to decide on the finish for the mdf. Due to the porous nature of the end cuts its recommended to seal it before final finishing.  Then I need to decide to leave it natural, stain or paint it.
 
The case is really nice and they had a fast 2 day turnaround.
 

 

First, let me wish you all the happiest of holiday seasons and a healthy New Year.
 
I've done two things since my last update: the lower shrouds are now in place, but I haven't tied off the lanyards yet, and probably won't until the stays and backstays are in place; next, I added the forestay with its mouse at the upper end and hearts at the lower end. I did tie off the lanyard for the hearts.The mouse is a very simplified affair made up from a bead glued to the stay and built up and shaped somewhat with glue, then painted black.
 
Next up will be making the topmasts and doing the remaining stays.
 
Bob

Hi Ed  very wonderful work.

Here is my representation of the well and shot lockers, came out ok methinks so I may install it in the model.
 
ben

Another photo

Hello friends.
I wish you all a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
Karl   
 
 
Part 11

Thank you Meddo.
As next part was blocks for the bowsprit.

Another photo