jud

Thx Patrick
 
At least, I retutned to shipyard and finished all dech dead-eyes lines
 

 
Next is cleaning, color repairs and color corrections of inner bulwark space on main deck

Dremel makes a router table that is cheaper but does not hold the tool as securely.  Here is a link to a DIY router table made from plywood.
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/87681

Would be happy to except it's long gone, made it in the 70s when my wife wanted some decorated boards for Decoupage or whatever she was doing at the time, routed a bunch for her and friends. All it was, was a 1" X 12" pine board about 2 feet long, drew a circle that matched the router base and routed it out part way through for the base to fit into, bolted the router in and routed a center hole for the bits to fit through. Then attached the thing to a frame of a TV stand I had lying around, sometimes I used a board for a guide, 'fence', used C clamps to hold it in place. Worked well, had both hands free to control the work, took about a hour to make including gathering up the materials. Haven't needed it since and has been a while and several moves ago when I saw it last. Did do something similar using a jig saw that worker better than free hand, it also has disappeared. If the need comes, making replacements will be no problem. All you need is a surface with an opening for the blade or cutter to protrude from, a way to attach the saw or router below on a stand of some kind, C clamps and sawhorses would work, a board and C clamps for a guide if needed. Most of the time a guide is not necessary, many cutters will guide themselves and a jig saw, just follow the lines and finish on a sander. Good luck.
jud
If your first one comes out a little rough, use it to make a better one.

Would be happy to except it's long gone, made it in the 70s when my wife wanted some decorated boards for Decoupage or whatever she was doing at the time, routed a bunch for her and friends. All it was, was a 1" X 12" pine board about 2 feet long, drew a circle that matched the router base and routed it out part way through for the base to fit into, bolted the router in and routed a center hole for the bits to fit through. Then attached the thing to a frame of a TV stand I had lying around, sometimes I used a board for a guide, 'fence', used C clamps to hold it in place. Worked well, had both hands free to control the work, took about a hour to make including gathering up the materials. Haven't needed it since and has been a while and several moves ago when I saw it last. Did do something similar using a jig saw that worker better than free hand, it also has disappeared. If the need comes, making replacements will be no problem. All you need is a surface with an opening for the blade or cutter to protrude from, a way to attach the saw or router below on a stand of some kind, C clamps and sawhorses would work, a board and C clamps for a guide if needed. Most of the time a guide is not necessary, many cutters will guide themselves and a jig saw, just follow the lines and finish on a sander. Good luck.
jud
If your first one comes out a little rough, use it to make a better one.

Would be happy to except it's long gone, made it in the 70s when my wife wanted some decorated boards for Decoupage or whatever she was doing at the time, routed a bunch for her and friends. All it was, was a 1" X 12" pine board about 2 feet long, drew a circle that matched the router base and routed it out part way through for the base to fit into, bolted the router in and routed a center hole for the bits to fit through. Then attached the thing to a frame of a TV stand I had lying around, sometimes I used a board for a guide, 'fence', used C clamps to hold it in place. Worked well, had both hands free to control the work, took about a hour to make including gathering up the materials. Haven't needed it since and has been a while and several moves ago when I saw it last. Did do something similar using a jig saw that worker better than free hand, it also has disappeared. If the need comes, making replacements will be no problem. All you need is a surface with an opening for the blade or cutter to protrude from, a way to attach the saw or router below on a stand of some kind, C clamps and sawhorses would work, a board and C clamps for a guide if needed. Most of the time a guide is not necessary, many cutters will guide themselves and a jig saw, just follow the lines and finish on a sander. Good luck.
jud
If your first one comes out a little rough, use it to make a better one.

Having built my own router tables using ply board before they were commercially available, I would say no. Would something like it be handy to have around, sure would. If you have the ability to use such a device, you also have the ability to make your own custom version, that is what I would do.
jud

Would be happy to except it's long gone, made it in the 70s when my wife wanted some decorated boards for Decoupage or whatever she was doing at the time, routed a bunch for her and friends. All it was, was a 1" X 12" pine board about 2 feet long, drew a circle that matched the router base and routed it out part way through for the base to fit into, bolted the router in and routed a center hole for the bits to fit through. Then attached the thing to a frame of a TV stand I had lying around, sometimes I used a board for a guide, 'fence', used C clamps to hold it in place. Worked well, had both hands free to control the work, took about a hour to make including gathering up the materials. Haven't needed it since and has been a while and several moves ago when I saw it last. Did do something similar using a jig saw that worker better than free hand, it also has disappeared. If the need comes, making replacements will be no problem. All you need is a surface with an opening for the blade or cutter to protrude from, a way to attach the saw or router below on a stand of some kind, C clamps and sawhorses would work, a board and C clamps for a guide if needed. Most of the time a guide is not necessary, many cutters will guide themselves and a jig saw, just follow the lines and finish on a sander. Good luck.
jud
If your first one comes out a little rough, use it to make a better one.

Worked!!!

Having built my own router tables using ply board before they were commercially available, I would say no. Would something like it be handy to have around, sure would. If you have the ability to use such a device, you also have the ability to make your own custom version, that is what I would do.
jud

Having built my own router tables using ply board before they were commercially available, I would say no. Would something like it be handy to have around, sure would. If you have the ability to use such a device, you also have the ability to make your own custom version, that is what I would do.
jud

Those 3 jaw chucks are seldom concentric with the rotating C/L.  Two choices, a face plate and turn between centers with a centered head stock or oversize stock so you can true it up, both quick and useful methods. Don't see much about turning between centers on this site but I expect there are some here who use the method. 4 jaw chucks also are good except for the setup time and not often used for turning of round stock. There are instructions on line that will allow you to true up your chucks but they will never reach the precision of collects. Looks like you are getting a good start with you machine knowledge, that with your own observations will be serving you well in years to come.
jud

Jud,
You can also true up the chucks...  put a quarter as far back as you can get it and close the chuck.   Use an "inside" cutting tool to very gently kiss the inside of the chuck clamps.  Takes some time but it's worth it.    Just don't feed the cutter fast.. very slow and just so it barely takes material off.  
 
I got this from an old machinist way back on MSW 1.0.  Sadly, he's no longer with us but he knew his lathes and milling machines.

Yah, the numbers are a bit staggering.  For drying they could have rigged lines, I suppose, but two each you'd have up to 1600 to stow during the daytime.  That part I haven't figured out yet.

Mark, that is the accepted norm, glad to see you introducing some exceptions. 8 bells was the length of the watch as it is today, but it was a Port and Starboard system, anyone who has stood Port and Starboard for long sure grows fond of the 3 watch system.
jud

OK, I read it. don't think it makes a bit of sense to issue two hammocks to each sailor. Two men to each hammock and hot bunk it would make more sense, except the hammock did double duty as a storage place for each seaman. It is the accepted idea that the hammocks were kept in the hammock cranes except when in use, that's fine. I don't think that was the norm, have pointed that out and everyone is free to make up their own minds.
jud
So I don't come across as a complete jerk, I did look at your work, was impressed with the quality.
Have painted canvas to water proof it and it works well as long as there is very limited movement, doesn't take much for the paint to crack and chip. Where canvas was used on some of the ships I was aboard for awnings or other decorative trim, unlaced and retied into knot patterns, it was kept washed, not painted.
jud

A observation. Hammocks and their contents are cotton, their contents are wool and cotton, 'blankets, clothing with some hemp and personal items mixed in'. All subject to rot and mold. Probably those hammock bundles were ordered into the the rails only when battle was expected or a few other special occasions. Those bundles contained the only personal possessions of the seamen they were issued to and keeping them dry and out of the sun would be expected as the norm, we all should know what moisture and ultra violate light does to cotton and wool, especially when rolled tight, the exposed will break down in the sun and the insides will rot, ever here the expression, 'Rolled tight and put away wet'?. We are told that the hammocks were in the cranes to absorb wood splinters, don't think so, anything that would create splinters would force them inboard past the netting's, there is little outboard of those hammocks to create splinters. Wool and cotton is good at stopping projectiles and would work well protecting exposed gun crews from incoming small arms fire, but would be useless against cannon fire hitting the bulwarks. Another thing, those hammock bundles if not wetted down would be a good place for sparks to get caught in and build into a fire, smoldering at first then flame when enough heat was built up. Suspect the hammock cranes were empty except for drills, combat, inspections or some dress ship evolution. When we still were using cotton mattress and wool blankets in the Navy, we Aired Bedding once a week, conditions permitting. We took our bedding topside and threaded it through the life lines and rails, they were allowed to air there, not stored.
jud

Jud,
 
I'm with Joel.  The contemporary evidence points to what he said.  Hammocks were washed on a regular basis along with clothing.  Stowed in the netting after undergoing an "inspection" involving a hoop to ensure they were rolled tight enough.   Foul weather and (depending on the captain and the ship) either moved to the hold or berthing deck or covered with canvas in the cranes.  
 
The reason for two was the watch system which you're familiar with... 4 on, 4 off, dog watch, etc.  On washing day, the hammock would be washed and dried on deck.  The extra hammock was for the sailor to use until it was dry.  Most, if not all, captains were pretty strict about keeping things clean... 

Chris, have removed my posts, your revisions has made them inappropriate and I like the changes. I also didn't intend offense but it is something I seem to do often, probably never change.
jud

Unlikely that the glue is causing your problem, I suspect that it is a temperature or moisture change. Cause, wood not cured, sawed but not sized after curing or you are adding moisture as a bending aid. Don't sand anything until you find out why you are having this problem, sand it now to fit, and the wood dries further it will shrink, your sanded to match high planks will become the low ones.
jud

Chuck,
 
I agree with you on this point.  Back on MSW 1.0, there was a "division" but by materials.  Plastics had their own build logs and many of the builders felt like second class citizens.  Why go back to that?    We were all beginners at some point and if it were not being able to mix and mingle with the experienced builders, most of us would have walked away from this hobby calling it "elitist".  We're all just builders and the attitude around here since day one is "helping each other".  

I would not recommend this.  I believe I would have been ill served if I had been forced to go into the kiddies pool until I learned how to swim when I first signed aboard.  Being able to see the various levels of accomplishment helped highlight what I was getting into and let me know there were many like me.  Meanwhile it also gave me a goal to strive for.
 
    Looking at the build logs of some of the more accomplished modelers helped me learn the terminology and gave me an appreciation for the quality that could be achieved.  I was also able to take away little pieces of "how to do it".  I may not be able to build a whole model like a master, but I can plank like one (that's my story and I'm sticking to it), or I can paint like one, or make thingamabobs like one.
 
    Throwing out a question while bobbing around in the main pool ensures that everybody sees it.  If there was just a beginners section, the question might only be seen by other beginners and those veterans who might specifically be there to do some mentoring. 
 
    I see nothing wrong with the way it is now.  Just my 2 euro's worth.

If I called for using the bottom of the rabbet line for leveling I was mistaken.  The top of the keel is correct as you have done.
 
Another way to level the drawing is to draw in the reference line as you have done in red.  Then select both the drawing and the reference line.  Place the reference point on the end of the red line (use D) and then relocate the X-axis control arm point at the other end of the red line (hold down CNTRL while clicking on the X-axis control point).  Then click on the X-axis to rotate the line and the drawing around the reference point at the end of the red line.  By holding down SHIFT and then clicking the line and the drawing are automatically leveled.  This method eliminates measuring the angle.  I was unaware of this procedure when I penned the little treatise you were so kind to mention.  
 
I have yet to find a top of keel line on an old plan that was straight.  
 
Wayne

I like this idea. If the person has simply lost interest, chances are, he won't be here reading the PM anyway, so no harm done. But if he is lurking and scratching his head in bewilderment, such a friendly nudge might be just the thing he needs to speak up.

Reminded of a story. A Friday nite beercan from Rush Creek to Chandler's Landing and back. It was dusk, and flat. We had rounded and were ghosting with the kite in 'maybe' 3-4 knots. Upwind comes a Harmony 24 who just dropped her genoa. A young boy was on the bow, covered with lines and draped with the sail. It was a silent kind of evening, and over the water floats this plaintive little voice saying "Daddy .. what the sh*t do I do now?"
 
Thus it is with first time anything. I appreciate and agree with Chris' cautionary tale. However, I think that we, as a community, might extend the paradigm a bit. One doesn't tell a landsman that he is on the fore topmast. It takes time and help (yes, and training) to get anywhere in an area as complex as this can be. Some of our threads are populated by people that are the equivalent of Olympic, America's Cup, or Volvo champions. Pity the young foredeck monkey.
 
Can we make a separate space for first-time, intermediate, modellers, where they can post and ask, and we can help and comment, without their being intimidated by competing with some of our member's exquisiteness? I know this is not politically correct, and has implications for being on 'the second tier', but someone who is truly interested in the 'hobby' and wants to learn and grow, may find it useful.
 
Just saying.
 
Ciao. John

Will advise You beforehand to make cuts with a knife along the edges of the groove, I am confident that the groove will turn out beautiful.