jud

iIgorcap; I don't believe they are intended for boat boom use, boat booms need a hinge and two lines, one forward and one aft holding the boom outboard so 3 points is the norm. I was referring to the poles used by the boat crew as grab hooks, so quick, from the boat, control of the boat alongside ship, wharf or dock, the books I have read mention hooking up to the chains as a common grab point. Before getting into the Gun Gang on the Ammen DD 527, one of my assignments was being the bow hook on the Captains Gig, duties were to 'handle the pole, mooring lines then stood at parade rest on the bow of that Motor Whale Boat', while the engineer responded to the bells, the Cockswan used bells to communicate with the engineer who operated the throttle and transmission, they were about 4 feet apart, the bell was used anyway. First got antiquated with boat booms from that Gig, also gained about 5 pounds. Those unknown appendages probably weren't used as catch points. Really don't believe they were intended for bow hook use, I suspect they are used for boat handling in some way.

iIgorcap; I don't believe they are intended for boat boom use, boat booms need a hinge and two lines, one forward and one aft holding the boom outboard so 3 points is the norm. I was referring to the poles used by the boat crew as grab hooks, so quick, from the boat, control of the boat alongside ship, wharf or dock, the books I have read mention hooking up to the chains as a common grab point. Before getting into the Gun Gang on the Ammen DD 527, one of my assignments was being the bow hook on the Captains Gig, duties were to 'handle the pole, mooring lines then stood at parade rest on the bow of that Motor Whale Boat', while the engineer responded to the bells, the Cockswan used bells to communicate with the engineer who operated the throttle and transmission, they were about 4 feet apart, the bell was used anyway. First got antiquated with boat booms from that Gig, also gained about 5 pounds. Those unknown appendages probably weren't used as catch points. Really don't believe they were intended for bow hook use, I suspect they are used for boat handling in some way.

I go through this same process with every boat I build.  I have yet to see a printed set of lines that are correct in all three orientations.  Keep on with the instructions.  You will have to adjust some lines to get things to line up correctly but eventually everything will line up and you will have a correct set of lines.  It all takes time and work.
 
Bob

Take your pieces to a jeweler that refinishes old watch cases, they have the needed cleaning and polishing setups for different metals. To chrome I think it involves polishing, nickle plating and finally chroming with neutralizing baths and re cleaning before each new step. My uncle used to replate old time watch cases for people using gold, silver, brass, nickle or chrome, he had thousands of dollars invested in beakers, power supplies, chemical cleaners, anodes, solutions with silver, nickle and gold suspensions plus his cleaning acids, neutralizers and polishing set ups. You could probabley do a little reading and try it yourself, using a stainless steel fork as a sacrificial anode, a solution in a glass container the would pass the low voltage and low amperage from a DC power supply. They say it is the polishing, cleaning and time that really counts, electrolysis is easy to create, just dissimilar metals in contact will do it.
jud

Take your pieces to a jeweler that refinishes old watch cases, they have the needed cleaning and polishing setups for different metals. To chrome I think it involves polishing, nickle plating and finally chroming with neutralizing baths and re cleaning before each new step. My uncle used to replate old time watch cases for people using gold, silver, brass, nickle or chrome, he had thousands of dollars invested in beakers, power supplies, chemical cleaners, anodes, solutions with silver, nickle and gold suspensions plus his cleaning acids, neutralizers and polishing set ups. You could probabley do a little reading and try it yourself, using a stainless steel fork as a sacrificial anode, a solution in a glass container the would pass the low voltage and low amperage from a DC power supply. They say it is the polishing, cleaning and time that really counts, electrolysis is easy to create, just dissimilar metals in contact will do it.
jud

Chalk board chalk works, keep a box of it in the shop it is a harder form, chalk line powder and the bee hive shaped marking chalk you can obtain in lumber stores also works well, comes in several colors. Have used my metal marking chalk, it is hard but also waxy, could be a form of clay, comes in flat stick refills for holders.
jud

Hi Nenad
 
Yes it is an Old English Sheepdog.
My wife and I had three of them, they are fantastic dogs.
Lots of exercise and grooming ahead of you my friend.
 
Denis

Hi Nenad
 
If I'm right, that would be an Ole English Sheepdog and, what a wonderful breed it is. Nenad, you're going to have a wonderful and faithful companion when he/she arrives. Hopefully, when that time comes, you'll be able to post some puppy pics!
 
Congrats and well done.
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

There is something in life beside hobby
 
A new pet reserved
 

 
Those days it is in making proces if ok, 60 days to delivery and 2 months to grow enough to be separated from mother, means ... have to wait until July
 
My CS learned me patience
 

Hmm... interesting Jud... I have to think a little bit about your comment because I've never had seen in this way.

The drawing you show in post #5 is cleaner. Looks like the gun room is a pressure chamber that if standing alone would be a drag and cause turbulence in the water. Looks like most of the actual gun room was covered with false sheeting as streamlining and to stop any noisy cross-flow around the topside structures. Would expect it to be open to the sea, don't see any drains but if not open to the sea.they would be crushed.
jud

Another tip for file and rasp use is to always push the file into the work and not drag them backward. Dragging them backward will dull them quickly. Its always a good idea to keep the files in a sheath of some sort if only a plastic tube to keep them sharp. Rattling against other metal objects in the toolbox will dull them. Bill

Chalk board chalk works, keep a box of it in the shop it is a harder form, chalk line powder and the bee hive shaped marking chalk you can obtain in lumber stores also works well, comes in several colors. Have used my metal marking chalk, it is hard but also waxy, could be a form of clay, comes in flat stick refills for holders.
jud

No, I stopped the video and looked at that one.
jud

The drawing you show in post #5 is cleaner. Looks like the gun room is a pressure chamber that if standing alone would be a drag and cause turbulence in the water. Looks like most of the actual gun room was covered with false sheeting as streamlining and to stop any noisy cross-flow around the topside structures. Would expect it to be open to the sea, don't see any drains but if not open to the sea.they would be crushed.
jud

No, I stopped the video and looked at that one.
jud

The training circle would be straight forward but it was a dry turret, that means some special seals at the rotating ring and the elevation slides on the front of the turret as well a having seals around the guns allowing for recoil movement but remain water tight while submerged. The seals on the muzzles looked simple enough except needing a gunner on the hull to open and close them. The schematic shows the hoists and barbette  running almost to the keel with powder and shell magazines low in the hull. Would not be surprised if the recoil from her own guns caused leakage. Interesting concept but keeping her dry must have been a nightmare.
jud

The training circle would be straight forward but it was a dry turret, that means some special seals at the rotating ring and the elevation slides on the front of the turret as well a having seals around the guns allowing for recoil movement but remain water tight while submerged. The seals on the muzzles looked simple enough except needing a gunner on the hull to open and close them. The schematic shows the hoists and barbette  running almost to the keel with powder and shell magazines low in the hull. Would not be surprised if the recoil from her own guns caused leakage. Interesting concept but keeping her dry must have been a nightmare.
jud

Alex,
 
Did you see this?  

Thank you Bill
and thanks for all who added likes.
 
silver is one of the most amazing metals that we can work with. it is the most electrically conductive, the most thermally conductive, and the most reflective metal according to the free encyclopedia.
 
It is also easy to change. I also needed a couple of pieces that were thicker that anything I had in the silver scrap box.
 
I took a small off-cut from a small silver map I made in the late 70's and melted it with the propane torch, it melted very quickly and cleanly into a small oblong blob.
 

 
This was then squashed and formed in the vice and with a polished small ball pein hammer using the flat side into a small wedge like shape.
 

 
Next this small piece was filed into a clean wedge and then using the jewelers saw (the thermally conductive part I can attest is very fast) cut a very shallow dovetail to lock the silver to a piece of Ebony.
 

 
This was then filed to form the final shape that I was after.
 

 
Michael
 
 

Looks like you have a winner there, when you said turntable, you about lost me. Glad I kept reading far enough to see what you were talking about. Having more than one of those devices would not be excessive or take up much room.
jud

I was having problems with sawdust build up on the wheels of my 14" bandsaw.  I looked around for a add on wheel brush to solve the problem but the ones offered by various outlets just didn't seem adequate.  A Google search brought up this article. http://lumberjocks.com/projects/19465
 
Great idea to use an old toothbrush as a wheel brush.  Cheap and easy, my favorite two words.

Thank you very much, dear friends for your support, very significant to me in this days ... many bad memories returned, and I am now in ... let`s say ... pretty shaked and jumbled situation in my head ... and in my office. I lose my Admiral and her parents in less than a three years. I lose my mother, Admiral and her mother, and a dog in last 9 months ... and just I said to my father (90 years old) that he has to wait with his final trip min next 6 months ... In this situation, I just have to make jokes, even a black one, to save my brain clear and healthy
 
Important is that kids are strong and they are well, Princess just have got next extension of the employment contract maybe to next two years, Hothead passed his three winter exams, and continued preparing next exam working on project of primary school which looks like a flower (?!?!?) and preparing to move his bike to Novi Sad town where his faculty of Architecture is ... everything gets in line  ... except me ... and I hope only I can see this. So, I must urgently consolidate myself, and strongly decided that consolidation period must start yesterday, as in office ( I reduced work to scheduled Court sessions and only urgent things last two weeks) and in my social life, emotional statement etc etc.
 
As usual, for this kind of problems, main is "work therapy". First part - remains and chaos in office and my overloaded office work table, second - home yard (spring  has just begin, and there is a lot of work to clean from winter remains, to cut grass, cut two old and ill trees, fix fence before get a new Husky puppy at home, etc etc etc), close openings on attic I left during carpenter ants session before year and half, service my old car, service my eyes ( left eye, which was better all my life suddenly weakened a bit) service my teeth dentures, get my first full medical health check ( I am 57 years old and think it is a last time to do it, particular because I lived in continuous stress last year), keep my swimming  practice, do something with cigarette overdose, reconstruct office to make room for 35-37 meter of books ... so much to count and write ...
 
And of course, to keep on with my build
 
So, show must go on, and Nenad is back in the saddle, riding life to it`s meaning
 
Thank you to you all, again
 
Nenad

I have been working on a small project that required some small silver nails, these nails are 1/4 inch long and .035" at the largest diameter.
 
step 1 was to cut a wedge of silver from some annealed sheet silver, and using a tiny watchmakers hammer forge it roughtly into a rounded shape
 

 
step 2 was to clean up the long blank with a fine file
 

 
Step 3 using the same small watchmakers hammer to upset the head
 

 
step 4 back to the steel plate to tap the head into a round shape
 

 
step 5 with the rough nail in a pin vice a second peening to dome the head.
 

 
step 6 the top was polished with a leather polishing stick (Basically a strip of wood with some leather off cut stuck to it with double sided carpet tape)
 

 
The finished nails I actually had to make 2 of them.
 

 

 
Michael

When I was making the blocks for my Clara May project I needed also small 1,4 mm diameter discs. I couldn`t find anywhere suitable ones, so I decided to make my own punch. And this is how I made it:
 
I took suitable drill bit, in this case a 1,4 mm diameter. Drilled with it a hole into 6 mm thick iron stock. Then reversed the drill bit in the chuck of my milling machine so that the shank of the drill bit points down. The iron stock with 1,4 mm hole is tightened into the vice attached on the milling machine table, which is adjusted so that the drill bit can be lowered into the hole in stock. And voila, you have a 1,4 mm diameter punch and die set. And of course, when punching the discs/holes the milling machine chuck is NOT rotating, you just push the punch through the material you work with using the hand lever of the machine.
 
With this kind of punch it is possible to make holes/discs in thin sheets of soft metals like aluminum or brass, plastics, plywood, etc, and it has completely solved my problem. I hope you find it useful too if decide to follow this method.
 
 
1,4 diameter drill bit in the milling machine chuck with shank downwards. A piece of 6 mm iron stock with 1,4 mm hole drilled in it, attached into the vice and adjusted precisely below the drill bit:
 

 
Closeup of the punch: