jud
-
Posts
1,171 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Reputation Activity
-
jud reacted to Jim Lad in Merchant Ship Plank Fastening
As I'm about to start treenailing my 'Francis Pritt', I thought I'd better check up the correct method for plank fastening.
For those interested in wooden merchant ships the following illustration may be of interest. It's from the 1890 edition of Lloyds Register's 'Rules and Regulations' and shows the correct distribution of hull plank fastenings for planks of various widths.
John
-
jud got a reaction from mattsayers148 in Red Dragon by janet bode - Artesania Latina
Doesn't matter what you are making, having something to see and aim for is a great help setting the standards and quality and you can see what is possible. Great work on this one. Can't help but think that, that driver must have seen something to admire and save in your first efforts, maybe you dropped the seeds for a new modeler..
jud
-
jud got a reaction from mattsayers148 in Red Dragon by janet bode - Artesania Latina
Janet, Excellent work, close fitting and well detailed.
jud
-
jud reacted to lb0190 in Constitution by patrickmil - Model Shipways - 1/76th
Subtle.
Hi Patrick,
I love the look of holly, but based on your photos, the third photo of maple had a more subtle look which appealed to me the most. I also agree with Mobbsie that the opinion of the ship's Captain carries the highest opinion.
-
jud got a reaction from tkay11 in Proxxon compound table -- Opinions?
By making your last turns on the feed wheels in one direction will take up any slack on one side, it works with anything that is moved mechanically, without some slack, parts would not move as intended. Being consistant on how you take up that slack will increase precision.
jud.
-
jud got a reaction from mtaylor in Proxxon compound table -- Opinions?
By making your last turns on the feed wheels in one direction will take up any slack on one side, it works with anything that is moved mechanically, without some slack, parts would not move as intended. Being consistant on how you take up that slack will increase precision.
jud.
-
jud reacted to Tadeusz43 in Drum Sander
Hi,
I have made my thickness sander for table drill with use of sanding cylinder.
Tadeusz
-
jud reacted to michael mott in Chopping block work table
Lextin, another way to clamp the pieces once you have cleaned the old glue off is to use a couple of pieces of wood like this
simple wood clamps made from scrap. once the glue is set knock out the wedges and the clamps can be taken apart for some other use.
Michael
-
jud reacted to Tuffarts in Chopping block work table
you could buy a 5 or 6mm plywood top to go on top of the existing top. You could glue pieces of sandpaper to both surfaces to minimise movement.
Then you would have a sacrificial top you could glue jigs on or damage as much as you wanted, just change top every few years
-
jud reacted to CaptainSteve in 1:64 deck lantern - lighted
Fantastic looking little lantern, Brian.
My only criticism is that I cannot find the 'Add To Cart' button in your post.
-
jud reacted to michael mott in Skipjack by michael mott - 1/8th scale - SMALL - 19 foot open launch
This evening I had to give the union a run.
First order was to set up the change gears on the Myford lathe to cut 80 threads per inch, then did some test cuts with a freshly ground cutter on some brass.
then turned down some 1/4 inch drill rod to .138" which is the size of the major diameter of a #6 machine screw then turning everything by hand(I unplugged the lathe) and taking .001" cuts threaded the shaft, polished it up with a leather strop. Hardened and tempered it then ground three flats with the diamond stone.
next I turned up the brass nut, and threaded it after the threading was done the clearance hole wad drilled through and then it was parted off.
Next the male part was threaded and tested with the tapped nut and .0005" reduction threading cuts until the nut wound on to the thread easily.
The male part was then parted off and slipped onto the end of some 3/32 tube.
A couple of tiny refinements and it will work just fine.
michael
-
jud got a reaction from mtaylor in Euphroes and crowsfeet
Was a messenger line used? That way the riggers could run a lighter line, while working from whatever was holding them. When the messinger was rigged, the end of the crowsfoot line would be attached to the messinger using a splice to prevent a knot to hang up. Then laving the coil on deck. use the messinger to guide and control it as it follows the messinger. When in place adjust.as needed. Messinger lines and jin poles allow things to be done with simple rigging and I bet they were used frequently in the days of sale.
jud
-
jud reacted to Mike Dowling in Windlass Rigging
Not sure what Jan.B's problem is ! Language is an interesting topic regardless of it's origins. Are we all expected to get so PC that we can't even have a sensible discussion anymore ? The world is going completely mad !!
-
jud got a reaction from GLakie in Chopping block work table
I bought a surplus steel desk and a solid core door from a hospital being razed, about 4' X 7'. used a heavy piano hinge the full length of the desk and attached the door. Used it for a drafting table for years with it proped up on the back, sometimes the desk was lifted on concrete blocks. It has gone through several size adjustments and is now 5' long and 3' wide and lying flat on the desktop. Yes it is heavy but there is a lot of storage in the desk and the hindge does come off when I move the thing, sometimes the feet needed to come off of the desk to get it in and out of a small room. It was cost efective, stromg and long lasting and with some effort it can be moved almost anywhere. With the legs removed and the dest stood up on it's end, it goes around tight corners well.
Offer this as someting to consider.
jud
-
jud got a reaction from qwerty2008 in Chopping block work table
I bought a surplus steel desk and a solid core door from a hospital being razed, about 4' X 7'. used a heavy piano hinge the full length of the desk and attached the door. Used it for a drafting table for years with it proped up on the back, sometimes the desk was lifted on concrete blocks. It has gone through several size adjustments and is now 5' long and 3' wide and lying flat on the desktop. Yes it is heavy but there is a lot of storage in the desk and the hindge does come off when I move the thing, sometimes the feet needed to come off of the desk to get it in and out of a small room. It was cost efective, stromg and long lasting and with some effort it can be moved almost anywhere. With the legs removed and the dest stood up on it's end, it goes around tight corners well.
Offer this as someting to consider.
jud
-
jud got a reaction from augie in Chopping block work table
I bought a surplus steel desk and a solid core door from a hospital being razed, about 4' X 7'. used a heavy piano hinge the full length of the desk and attached the door. Used it for a drafting table for years with it proped up on the back, sometimes the desk was lifted on concrete blocks. It has gone through several size adjustments and is now 5' long and 3' wide and lying flat on the desktop. Yes it is heavy but there is a lot of storage in the desk and the hindge does come off when I move the thing, sometimes the feet needed to come off of the desk to get it in and out of a small room. It was cost efective, stromg and long lasting and with some effort it can be moved almost anywhere. With the legs removed and the dest stood up on it's end, it goes around tight corners well.
Offer this as someting to consider.
jud
-
jud reacted to augie in Chopping block work table
How big is the table Lextin? The reason I ask is that what I've done is take something like that and lay a solid wooden door on top of it then screw the door into the old wood table top. Gives a nice, smooth work surface that can be easily taken apart and even flipped over when the surface gets worn (about 20 years).
-
jud reacted to Tuffarts in CA adhesive, which one do you use?
Loctite, or whatever is cheap.
I tend to use it for making jigs, small parts installation (not often) or holding ropes (again not often)
I like to use PVA as much as possible, as it is repairable, will not harden over time and will move with the model as seasons change and wood expands and contracts.
CA glues harden over time and will eventually fail if used to hold structural parts together.
-
jud got a reaction from druxey in SHIP'S WHEEL
Like was noted, 'poor quality sketch'. What I find intreaging is how the tiller was rigged in Tadeusz's photos. Rudder post forward with the tiller leading aft. The long hub with the drums aft was another unusual method of rigging. Rigging the stearing gear that way would save deck space when the rudder post daylights on the main deck where this one does.
jud
-
jud reacted to Jaager in In need of very thin steel wire (0.010 inch or less)
There is another way:
Start with one size of brass or copper wire.
Use a draw plate to get whichever smaller diameter that you need.
We may use draw plates to make bamboo or wooded treenails, but the original purpose is to make wire.
-
jud reacted to GaryKap in In need of very thin steel wire (0.010 inch or less)
Here is another suggestion. I used to be into fly tying (as in fly fishing). Fly tying materials included some very thin (usually copper) wire. I looked online and Cabelas carries what they all "ultra wire". It comes in colors including black. Here is a link:
http://www.cabelas.com/catalog/product.jsp?productId=743795&destination=%2Fcatalog%2Fproduct.jsp%3FparentCategoryId%3D104793480%26categoryId%3D104721480%26subCategoryId%3D104340780%26indexId%3D103886280%26productId%3D741424%26type%3Dproduct%26destination%3D%252Fcatalog%252Fbrowse%252Fthread-beads-eyes%252F_%252FN-1100440%252FNo-48%252FNs-CATEGORY_SEQ_103886280%253FWTz_l%253DSBC%25253BMMcat104793480%25253Bcat104721480%25253Bcat104340780%2526WTz_st%253DGuidedNav%2526WTz_stype%253DGNP%2526recordsPerPage%253D48%26WTz_l%3DSBC%253BMMcat104793480%253Bcat104721480%253Bcat104340780%253Bcat103886280&WTz_l=YMAL%3BIK-310670
(I hope this works). I don't know anything about it, but it might be worth a look. Anyway, if you have a store that sells fly tying materials nearby, you might want to check them out as a source.
<<Gary>>
p.s. If this works, you might also consider purchasing a fly tying bobbin - a device that holds the spool of wire and lets you control how the wire pays out of it. This might allow you to control small lengths of fine wire more effectively, and might also be helpful if you wanted to strop blocks with it.
-
jud reacted to mattsayers148 in The Kit-Basher's Guide To The Galaxy
TUBE ASSORTMENT / ANY SCALE
I found these little grab bags at my local hobby shop and went back to get another, and none were to be found. Well eBay is the place to go. Search "k&s 320" also may add to that search "tube assortment"(changing a word or two will find you more items)
I bought 5 bags for a bit over $16 shipping included.
It made quick work for the pintles and gudgeons on my Bounty Launch.
Matt
-
jud got a reaction from tasmanian in Cutty Sark by NenadM
You need to drop everything and build yourself a, 2, 3 or more drawer, flat file. You can build it with a removable table type top and use that top as a table or whatever, the removable top is so you can stack another set of drawers on top of the existing drawers and then replace the top on the addition if the need arises. Or you could contine with what seems to have worked well for you.
Don't comment much on your build log but I do watch and learn from it. You are doing a very good job, didn't think you would get this far after seeing how you planked her, boy was I wrong.
jud
-
jud got a reaction from GLakie in Cutty Sark by NenadM
You need to drop everything and build yourself a, 2, 3 or more drawer, flat file. You can build it with a removable table type top and use that top as a table or whatever, the removable top is so you can stack another set of drawers on top of the existing drawers and then replace the top on the addition if the need arises. Or you could contine with what seems to have worked well for you.
Don't comment much on your build log but I do watch and learn from it. You are doing a very good job, didn't think you would get this far after seeing how you planked her, boy was I wrong.
jud
-
jud got a reaction from NenadM in Cutty Sark by NenadM
You need to drop everything and build yourself a, 2, 3 or more drawer, flat file. You can build it with a removable table type top and use that top as a table or whatever, the removable top is so you can stack another set of drawers on top of the existing drawers and then replace the top on the addition if the need arises. Or you could contine with what seems to have worked well for you.
Don't comment much on your build log but I do watch and learn from it. You are doing a very good job, didn't think you would get this far after seeing how you planked her, boy was I wrong.
jud
Our Emblem ®
