jud

you could buy a 5 or 6mm plywood top to go on top of the existing top. You could glue pieces of sandpaper to both surfaces to minimise movement.
 
Then you would have a sacrificial top you could glue jigs on or damage as much as you wanted, just change top every few years

Fantastic looking little lantern, Brian.
My only criticism is that I cannot find the 'Add To Cart' button in your post.

This evening I had to give the union a run.
First order was to set up the change gears on the Myford lathe to cut 80 threads per inch, then did some test cuts with a freshly ground cutter on some brass.
 
then turned down some 1/4 inch drill rod to .138" which is the size of the major diameter of a #6 machine screw then turning everything by hand(I unplugged the lathe) and taking .001" cuts threaded the shaft, polished it up with a leather strop. Hardened and tempered it then ground three flats with the diamond stone.
 

 
next I turned up the brass nut, and threaded it after the threading was done the clearance hole wad drilled through and then it was parted off.
 

 
Next the male part was threaded and tested with the tapped nut and  .0005" reduction threading cuts until the nut wound on to the thread easily.
 

 
The male part was then parted off and slipped onto the end of some 3/32 tube.
 

 
A couple of tiny refinements and it will work just fine.
 
michael
 
 

Was a messenger line used? That way the riggers could run a lighter line, while working from whatever was holding them. When the messinger was rigged, the end of the crowsfoot line would be attached to the messinger using a splice to prevent a knot to hang up. Then laving the coil on deck. use the messinger to guide and control  it as it follows the messinger.  When in place adjust.as needed.  Messinger lines and jin poles allow things to be done with simple rigging and I bet they were used frequently in the days of sale.
jud

Not sure what Jan.B's problem is ! Language is an interesting topic regardless of it's origins. Are we all expected to get so PC that we can't even have a sensible discussion anymore ? The world is going completely mad !!

I bought a surplus steel desk and a solid core door from a hospital being razed, about 4' X 7'. used a heavy piano hinge the full length of the desk and attached the door. Used it for a drafting table for years with it proped up on the back,  sometimes the desk was lifted on concrete blocks. It has gone through several size adjustments and is now 5' long and 3' wide and lying flat on the desktop. Yes it is heavy but there is a lot of storage in the desk and the hindge does come off when I move the thing, sometimes the feet needed to come off of the desk to get it in and out of a small room. It was cost efective, stromg and long lasting and with some effort it can be moved almost anywhere. With the legs removed and the dest stood up on it's end, it  goes around tight corners well.
Offer this as someting to consider.
jud

I bought a surplus steel desk and a solid core door from a hospital being razed, about 4' X 7'. used a heavy piano hinge the full length of the desk and attached the door. Used it for a drafting table for years with it proped up on the back,  sometimes the desk was lifted on concrete blocks. It has gone through several size adjustments and is now 5' long and 3' wide and lying flat on the desktop. Yes it is heavy but there is a lot of storage in the desk and the hindge does come off when I move the thing, sometimes the feet needed to come off of the desk to get it in and out of a small room. It was cost efective, stromg and long lasting and with some effort it can be moved almost anywhere. With the legs removed and the dest stood up on it's end, it  goes around tight corners well.
Offer this as someting to consider.
jud

I bought a surplus steel desk and a solid core door from a hospital being razed, about 4' X 7'. used a heavy piano hinge the full length of the desk and attached the door. Used it for a drafting table for years with it proped up on the back,  sometimes the desk was lifted on concrete blocks. It has gone through several size adjustments and is now 5' long and 3' wide and lying flat on the desktop. Yes it is heavy but there is a lot of storage in the desk and the hindge does come off when I move the thing, sometimes the feet needed to come off of the desk to get it in and out of a small room. It was cost efective, stromg and long lasting and with some effort it can be moved almost anywhere. With the legs removed and the dest stood up on it's end, it  goes around tight corners well.
Offer this as someting to consider.
jud

How big is the table Lextin?  The reason I ask is that what I've done is take something like that and lay a solid wooden door on top of it then screw the door into the old wood table top.  Gives a nice, smooth work surface that can be easily taken apart and even flipped over when the surface gets worn (about 20 years).

Loctite, or whatever is cheap.
 
I tend to use it for making jigs, small parts installation (not often) or holding ropes (again not often)
 
I like to use PVA as much as possible, as it is repairable, will not harden over time and will move with the model as seasons change and wood expands and contracts.
 
CA glues harden over time and will eventually fail if used to hold structural parts together.

Like was noted, 'poor quality sketch'. What I find intreaging is how the tiller was rigged in Tadeusz's photos. Rudder post forward with the tiller leading aft. The long hub with the drums aft was another unusual method of rigging. Rigging the stearing gear that way would  save deck space when the rudder post daylights on the main deck where this one does.
jud

There is another way:
Start with one size of brass or copper wire.
Use a draw plate to get whichever smaller diameter that you need.
We may use draw plates to make bamboo or wooded treenails, but the original purpose is to make wire.

Here is another suggestion.  I used to be into fly tying (as in fly fishing).  Fly tying materials included some very thin (usually copper) wire.  I looked online and Cabelas carries what they all "ultra wire".  It comes in colors including black.   Here is a link:
http://www.cabelas.com/catalog/product.jsp?productId=743795&destination=%2Fcatalog%2Fproduct.jsp%3FparentCategoryId%3D104793480%26categoryId%3D104721480%26subCategoryId%3D104340780%26indexId%3D103886280%26productId%3D741424%26type%3Dproduct%26destination%3D%252Fcatalog%252Fbrowse%252Fthread-beads-eyes%252F_%252FN-1100440%252FNo-48%252FNs-CATEGORY_SEQ_103886280%253FWTz_l%253DSBC%25253BMMcat104793480%25253Bcat104721480%25253Bcat104340780%2526WTz_st%253DGuidedNav%2526WTz_stype%253DGNP%2526recordsPerPage%253D48%26WTz_l%3DSBC%253BMMcat104793480%253Bcat104721480%253Bcat104340780%253Bcat103886280&WTz_l=YMAL%3BIK-310670
(I hope this works). I don't know anything about it, but it might be worth a look.   Anyway, if you have a store that sells fly tying materials nearby, you might want to check them out as a source.
<<Gary>>
p.s. If this works, you might also consider purchasing a fly tying bobbin - a device that holds the spool of wire and lets you control how the wire pays out of it.  This might allow you to control small lengths of fine wire more effectively, and might also be helpful if you wanted to strop blocks with it. 

TUBE ASSORTMENT / ANY SCALE
 
I found these little grab bags at my local hobby shop and went back to get another, and none were to be found. Well eBay is the place to go. Search "k&s 320" also may add to that search "tube assortment"(changing a word or two will find you more items)
 
I bought 5 bags for a bit over $16 shipping included.
 
It made quick work for the pintles and gudgeons on my Bounty Launch.
 
Matt

You need to drop everything and build yourself a, 2, 3 or more drawer, flat file. You can build it with a removable table type top and use that top as a table or whatever, the removable top is so you can stack another set of drawers on top of the existing drawers and then replace the top on the addition if the need arises. Or you could  contine with what seems to have worked well for you.
Don't comment much on your build log but I do watch and learn from it. You are doing a very good job, didn't think you would get this far after seeing how you planked her, boy was I wrong.
jud

You need to drop everything and build yourself a, 2, 3 or more drawer, flat file. You can build it with a removable table type top and use that top as a table or whatever, the removable top is so you can stack another set of drawers on top of the existing drawers and then replace the top on the addition if the need arises. Or you could  contine with what seems to have worked well for you.
Don't comment much on your build log but I do watch and learn from it. You are doing a very good job, didn't think you would get this far after seeing how you planked her, boy was I wrong.
jud

You need to drop everything and build yourself a, 2, 3 or more drawer, flat file. You can build it with a removable table type top and use that top as a table or whatever, the removable top is so you can stack another set of drawers on top of the existing drawers and then replace the top on the addition if the need arises. Or you could  contine with what seems to have worked well for you.
Don't comment much on your build log but I do watch and learn from it. You are doing a very good job, didn't think you would get this far after seeing how you planked her, boy was I wrong.
jud

Ed, thank you, your comment means a great deal to me.
 
this evening I am having a hard time wiping the silly grin off my face.
 
Beginning cuts
 

 
Half a day later the last tooth cut
 

 
Back to the lathe for some rough shaping
 

 
I ground up a bit of a form tool to get the curved recess better.
 

 
After parting it off I slipped it onto the camshaft .
 

 

 

 
It is actually on the shaft backwards I have to set it up in a fixture on the four jaw chuck now and machine the eccentric cam for the water pump then it can be flipped to finish the front side.
 
It did mesh nicely though even without any clean up yet,
 
Michael

Elia the short answer is Yes.
 
I began with the base external Dimensions of the Engine, as noted in the Buffalo catalogue. determined the bore and stroke based on a scaled version of original core dimensions such as the diameters and lengths etc. Some dimensions are absolutely critical, Gear meshing , piston fits shaft diameters and so on. I do have leeway over many ancillary dimensions though. for instance the outside diameter of the hub for the 30 tooth gear, I drew it at .250" I think the final finished dimension was .249" is doesn't matter and without miking the diameter it is impossible to see. it could just have easily been .235"
 
Without actually having the real engine in front of me to measure, and this is a model after all I certainly have taken dimensional liberties as well as material and design ones.
 
I have no way of knowing some dimensions and so they are guesses, there is enough "stacking " as you say that I can make some adjustments as I go along.
 
One of the most critical and challenging fits is going to be the smooth meshing of the gears, on the real engine the DP of the teeth is an unknown to me, I could have done more research and found out exactly no doubt but being impatient I scaled from photographs of the engine counted the number of teeth, in actuality the real gears are 64 and 32 a 2:1 ratio.
I do not have a proper dividing head or gears with those numbers of teeth to use as masters, only a rotary table albeit a good but very large one it can measure into degrees minutes and seconds.  The key information is the ratio of 2:1.
 
The camshaft had to be clear of the con rods, and I had some general dimensions based on the catalogue and photographs Gears are really no more than a couple of discs ( Pitch Circle) that rub against each other with teeth projecting from each so as not to slip. There are tables for all the standard tooth sizes these are based on the Diametral Pitch system which is the number of teeth in the gear for each inch of pitch diameter. lots of small gears use 64 or 48 teeth per inch these are standard ones that are sold through the commercial vendors.
 
On the engine that I am building neither of these pitches provided a pair of gears that were the correct ratio and the correct number of teeth to look scale or the correct Diameter(approx in any case ). I used the formulas to calculate from the diameters that were formed from the two circles on my drawing for the crankshaft and for the camshaft a set of gears that would give me 60 teeth and 30 teeth it worked out to 75 teeth per inch of pitch diameter.
 
A non commercial gear size, so using another set of tables in an article in a Model Engineer magazine, developed by model engineer D. J. Unwin, I made the tool to make the cutters for the 75DP gears.
 
Here's the rub, on paper they mesh perfectly ,I will find out soon enough if my machining tolerances are good enough for them to mesh perfectly in situ.
 
In the (unlikely   ) event that I need to make a minor adjustment I can make the camshaft bearing housing which are 3/16 diameter carrying a 1/8th inch shaft  (.18725" and .125" respectively ) I can make a second set that is very slightly eccentric which would allow for the camshaft to be moved to in order to have the best meshing. This is my fall back position.
 
I think that we always need to consider the fall back position when we are building our models because  "life is."
 
Apologies for another long winded answer, but a nice break from winding the table on the mill , only 30 teeth to go on the big gear.
 
Michael
 
 
 

Jud, thanks, regarding the shaping, the thing is I am taking very small cuts with the tool on a fairly forgiving material for the most part. The way the tools work on the lathe is mostly the work moves and depending on the diameter and shape of the tool the cutting will usually produce a nice smooth cut. Sometimes the cutter needs to be reshaped or lubricated to get the desired result, most of this has been learned by observing what happens when one tries something.
 
When I say that I am using the lathe or mill like a shaper, it is in the loosest way really, as you know on a shaper the tool is hinged so that on the back stroke the tool lifts and then the machine indexes over to make the next cut.
 
My tools are fixed and so the back stroke the tool stays in the same relative position. I am making very small cuts .005 max on the first cuts and backing off as the form tool gets deeper because it is doing more work, think of the chamfer on the corner of a piece of wood, as the chamfer gets wider more material is being cut by the plane or chisel, the same thing happens with the tools on the lathe.
 
The important thing is small cuts and keeping everything as rigid as possible. the last cuts on the gear teeth are repeated over 2 or 3 times without adjusting anything, the natural spring in the tools and materials take just that little bit extra material off in those last cuts, it is almost undetectable but it does matter for the final finish.
 
Each tooth on the gear takes a minimum of 15 cuts back and forth before moving on to the next tooth. it is a slow tedious process but satisfying because I can make what I need. I am 15 teeth into the 60 tooth gear at the moment and have to take little breaks to keep my sanity, and concentration level up, it is so easy to get lulled into a rhythm that causes a lack of attention and wham, a missed action or an additional one that can spell disaster, like this.
 

 
Just some thoughts about the way I work.
 
And again thanks for the likes
 
Michael

Your use of the lath and mill as a shaper is new to me, can't complain about not having a shaper. Like to spend some time with you, in your shop, asking dumb questions.
jud

Row, Denis, Jeff, Carl, Jack, that you all so much for the encouraging remarks, they take the edge of these types of screw ups.
 
Thanks to all who are following along and noting it with the like button.
 
Today was a much better day nippy (-32 this morning)  but better.
 
I went back to square one with the tooling and reset the rotary table in the vertical position, and spent the time needed to get the chuck properly centered on the table with the dial indicator. I turned down some new stock to the .422" diameter the advantage to using the mill table and rotary is far greater accuracy can be achieved.
 

 
the depth of tooth cut can also be very accurately regulated the depth is .031" and I fixed the quill on the mill so that it could not rotate and unplugged the mill, then worked the table in the same manner as the compound slide on the lathe, in other words I used the mill like a shaper this time. I prefer the way the material finish occurs with the shaping cut versus the rotating cut.
 

 
The indexing was simply a matter of rotating the table in increments of 12 degrees.
 

 
Once the shaping of the teeth was completed the chuck went back onto the lathe to finish the other operations , drilling and boring to 1/8th and cutting the hub for pinning.
 

 
It cleaned up nicely and is now waiting for its big brother, on the camshaft, but i have to make a new cutter first.
 

 
Michael
 

Math is definitely not my strong point it seems. yesterday I spent a fair bit of time cutting the (30tooth) gear and as I came to the last tooth I could see that something was awry because I cut a half tooth.  Thinking I had skipped a tooth on the indexing I counted the teeth 32.5 noooooooooooo counted again 32.5.  I used a felt marker and recounted the big (60tooth) gear on the lathe 65 ..... 65!! . Somehow I had got it into my head that the big gear was a 60 tooth gear? hearsay ...myth,  a wild guess  I don't know.... what is the old saying about assumptions?
 
So one step forwards 5 steps back, a rethink of what to do next. All I know is that it involves setting up the rotary table in the vertical position on the mill which is what I ought to have done in the first place. It is just such a pain in the neck to do, because it is a very heavy bit of tooling, and really a bit too big for using as a dividing head, that is why i was so pleased that the gear on the lathe was a (60 Tooth one)perfect one for the job.
 
Oh Well....tis a good job that I am not getting paid for this and it is just my education that I am dealing with.... don't make assumptions you would think that I would have learned that one by now. Lesson learned!
 
to be continued
 
Michael

I was searching through the Library of Congress "Historic American Engineering Record" for information on ships and boats and came across this record. I had never heard of the Sub Marine Explorer. It was a submarine built in 1865, to harvest pearls.  It was abandoned in Panama after a couple of years use.
http://www.loc.gov/pictures/collection/hh/item/cz0044/

Don't forget the Half Hitch, I still use it often for many different things, you can double them or tie it for a quick release by looping the tuck. Handy knot. The constrictor knot is one I have not used, have about 4 feet of 1/4" cotton rope on my desk and practicing tying it.
jud