Mike Y

Let me dive right in...
 
Dont forget that if you eventually build this kit,  the two volume set from Seawatch will be a must have.   Yes you will spot the differences easy enough,  but the books along with my instructions absolutely compliment each other and you will want to have them at your side.
 
I always like to begin by building the stem assembly.   As was true with Cheerful and the Winnie,  All of the parts are laser cut.  In this case yellow cedar was used.  But there is one major difference.  On the Winnie, you could just punch out the pieces and glue them together with little or no tweaking.  But this model is being built at 3/8" scale.  That means the parts are much thicker than with Winnie.

 
The laser cutter as you know will not cut with the edges at a perfect right angle.  Normally I would just flip some parts and that would do the trick so everyone would get a perfect fit with the edges fitting nice and tight.  These parts however are so thick that even with the best of laser cutter settings, more than just an exaggerated bevel is produced.   When the wood starts to reach 5/16" or 3/8" thick, the laser starts to introduce a slight curve as well.   Most of this can be compensated for by doing my usual flipping of parts.
 
But where the edge is narrower, lets say at the end of scarph joint....the flipping isnt enough.  So each part has been strategically made a fraction longer on one end only so you can make adjustments for the tightest fit possible.
 
In fact...most edges still dont need to be touched and I recommend that you dont touch almost all of them.  I have taken the liberty of circling every edge in the stem knee assembly that should be tweaked.   I am talking about knocking off the char and sanding the edge very slightly to get a really nice fit.  Just a few swipes with a sanding stick along these narrower edges and you will have a perfect fit.  Not too much though.  Test the it regularly and flip it over to look at the joint on both sides.   
 
Just a quick hitting with the sanding sticks on the edges marked with red circles will make these parts fit nice and tight.
 

Also Note 
 
The lower end of the stem will form an actual and true boxing joint.   But to simplify the building process this segment of the stem needs to be built in two layers.  I will do this a lot on this project which you will soon see.  Make sure you assemble the two layers carefully and have the longer piece on the correct side.   The two halves were glued together first and then that segment was glued onto the completed head/stem assembly after tweaking the scarph joint for a tight fit.  Hope that makes sense.
 

Also note above the dashed red line where the boxing joint will be.  The top layer of the stem was left a bit longer than needed to assure it could be trimmed back flush with the end of the gripe.  I used a sharp #11 blade to slice it back so it was flush and neat.  You can see this was done on my assembly already but once you glue that segment of the stem on your assembly you will see its just a hair too long....that was done intentionally so you could get a great fit on your model and the boxing joint will have nice tight seams.
 
Once completed the thinner knee of the head was also sanded and installed...note how that is pre notched to receive head timbers much later in the project.  Just center it port to starboard.   Dont sand any laser char off at all until you test it on your assembly.   It will fit almost perfect from the get go so only the edges that are visible after gluing it in position should be sanded free of char.  This piece can be delicate so more than one laser cut piece is provided just in case.
 
Now it was time to thin down and taper the entire head assembly to receive the figurehead.  The fore edge of the stem was sanded so a graceful bevel was introduced.  Just like on the Winnie.   The forward edge was reduced to 4mm so the space between the legs of the figure will actually fit.  Otherwise the figurehead will not fit...I wont go nutty with the instructions here because so much of this is repeated from the Winnie and other projects.   But this completes the first part of of the project which means its truly official now.
 

The start of my build log...always a very exciting moment for a model builder!!
 
I am assuming most of you are somewhat familiar with the Ketch Rigged English Sloop Speedwell - 1752.   David Antscherl and Greg Herbert have produced a wonderful series of books for model builders on how to build a great model of her.   Not only can you build one as a POF model,  but as a POB and lift model as well.
 
Why would I choose this as my subject.  Those of you that know me,  I have always selected a subject that was unique at the time.  Never been done!!!  The Syren, The Winnie, The Cheerful etc.  I chose this subject for several reasons actually, knowing full well that this would become a commercial laser cut kit like my other Syren projects.
 
First- I never really wanted to build a POF model.  I prefer the look of a fully planked hull myself.  But the craftsman side of me won out as I was looking for a challenge beyond just another POB project.  I can build those and sometimes it feels like I am just going through the formulaic motions with each of them.   This would certainly be a design and engineering challenge as much as a builder challenge.
 


Second-  I am always increasingly frustrated and disappointed to regularly see pirated kits come out almost monthly as of late.  Mostly all the rage are those POF kits from China. 
 
A coincidence??  That almost all of them released are also subjects of Ancre, Seawatch, or Anatomy of the Ship Books.  I think not.
 
You may have noticed the latest pirated kit produced from one of David Antscherl's designs, the Hayling Hoy is now making its rounds.  None of the parts fit as is typical and the instructions render this kit almost unbuildable....again very typical.  Just check out the build logs of pirated Hayling kit from China on other forums.  Its a complete disaster and a waste of money.  Literally unbuildable but they are still selling them to unsuspecting builders.
 
So I reached out to David and Greg and asked them if I could develop the Speedwell before a really bad pirated version is released (and one is actually on the way-surprised?)  They agreed and are as excited as I am about it.  I just dont want to see a crappy unbuildable version of Speedwell being sold to builders.   Hopefully they will wait until this one is released.  Maybe I should do one of Hayling as well. LOL.
 
My goal...to design a kit based on the books where the parts actually do fit.   One that would encourage POF building for folks who want to give it a try.   To also write a set of English instructions that are in depth and easy to understand.  In short, to make a legitimate kit of from a Seawatch book under license and permission from the author with the authors help and guidance.  Will this stop folks from building the knock-off version when it comes out.....probably not.  But at least you will now have a choice.  The pirated version of Speedwell is currently almost ready and being done by the same company who pirated Hayling.   Coincidence again??  I think not.
 
Also and I dont mean to digress....but a pirated version of yet another Seawatch book....Ed Tosti's Naiad Frigate is also set for release very soon as well.   Again a coincidence...I think Not.    Why dont you ever see a subject from these guys that wasnt first a Seawatch Book or Ancre book?   Honest inquiring minds want to know.
 
Anyway
 
There will be differences between my Speedwell of course.  I will be modifying it for simplicity so  you dont have to be a master builder with every expensive tool in shop.   The design concept for this POF model will be unique and allow a novice and intermediate builder to tackle it.   It will also be at 3/8" scale which should also make it much easier to build.  
 
Here is the preliminary framing plan which will show just how different it will be.
 

It will be planked from the wales upward so there is no reason to over complicate the project with bent frames....If you compared this to David's plan it is completely different.  BUT make no mistake.   Yes the folks who pirate these POF projects will claim its different and therefore original. 
 
BUT make no mistake.  This is a 100% copy of Davids work.   All of this is directly lifted from his plans and only modified to make production and building a bit easier.   But it is a copy...literally traced.  But the difference here is I give full credit to David and will be paying for the privilege to use his knowledge and expertise and hard work and years of research on this subject.  
 
I do hope you will swing over a chair and watch this new Speedwell project come to life.  A huge thank you to David and to Greg who will no doubt think I am pain in biscuit by the time this is completed.
 
speedwellsheetone.pdf
 
speedwellsheettwo.pdf
 
speedwellsheetthree.pdf
 
SpeedChapOneMono.pdf

SpeedChapTwoMono.pdf
 
 
 

I could get a job at IKEA....

 

 

 

 

 

little wardrobe:

 

 

 

 

 

 

As I had anticipated, I started a new challenge: the construction of an English frigate, with a carpentry that, until now, I had never approached. Very fascinating architecture, and a model, the Pegasus that struck me immediately, already from the first splendid images seen here on MSW. I am studying a lot, because I would like to be able to come up with a model that is worthy of the great work done by David Antscherl and Greg Herbert and I count a lot on your help and support!
 
Meanwhile, I started setting up the first job:
 

 

 

 

 

Ialmost forgot a unique and important feature of this little gem.   I got so used to it I thought it was a standard feature on all disc sanders but its not.  It is such a timesaver.  This sander has a removable disc.  If you examine the picture below, you can see the disc is in two halves.  This makes switching grits so much easier.  In fact with the spare disc you can have one ready alongside the machine with a different grit.    It has 3/32 hex driver with it so you can remove it.  The front disc is removed from the back of the disc through the slot on top of the motor mount,  there are 3 screws that mount the front disc to the back.   So removing the sandpaper is easier.  You remove the entire disc and swap out the sandpaper and then place the disc back in the machine.  You could literally buy several of these discs and have them all ready with sandpaper and you are ready for the quick change. 
 

I would like to introduce you guys to the latest tool that will soon be offered by Model Machines.   Jim Byrnes has done it again.   You might ask how he could possibly make the disc sander he offers better.  I asked the same thing.   But as expected, he managed to do just that.   
 
The first thing you will notice is the size difference between the new disc sander and the old one.  This new Variable Speed Disc Sander is the perfect size, at least for me.  It has a 4" disc.  You can see the side by side comparison below.  I have put it through its paces over the last few months.  You might expect a less powerful machine.  It is not.  This smaller disc sander packs some power.  It is also quiet as a mouse.   It runs super smooth as expected and you barely hear a whisper from the sander. 
 

Another great function of this sander is the ability to change speeds.  The variable speed control is super smooth as well.   I prefer slower speeds on softer material like Yellow Cedar.  But maybe thats just me.  You can tailor the speed for your own comfort zone.
 
In addition the other neat feature is the direction is reversible.  I am right handed so I usually keep it going counter clock wise.  But on some occasions it was a real pleasure to be able to reverse direction.  The shape of some parts just makes this a great option to have.  BUT remember....DO NOT REVERSE DIRECTIONS UNLESS THE DISC IS FULLY STOPPED.   I havent done that by accident yet but I imagine it wouldnt be pretty.

The table top is 6 3/4" long and 4 1/4" deep.  Its a really nice size.  I used this on some test frames for my upcoming speedwell kit.  The parts sat comfortably on the table, even the small parts.  As you would expect, the table tilts with a variety of "lockable" preset angles.  Just push in the pin and tighten it up on both sides of the table.  Its sturdy aluminum construction like all of the Byrnes machines is also present here.  This machine has some tight and precision tolerances and is of course well made.  Superior to anything else you might have used in the past.
 
You can also see the precision miter slide that is typical of Jim's machines.   There is no play with this slide.  It is very accurate and slides comfortably.  


 
I thought the smaller size would make it more difficult or awkward to use.  But to my surprise it did not.  In fact after using the new 4" disc sander the larger older sander seemed a bit awkward by comparison.  The new smaller size makes sense and I didnt find myself wandering to the old one at all.  This new sander will now be my go to sander and it is lightweight by comparison.   It fits nicely on your work bench and doesnt take up much room.  It slides nicely into the corner and even fits on a nearby shelf when  I need to store it for longer periods.  That is a huge plus.
 
Jim will be launching these very soon.   It will make a great tool if you are in the market for a disc sander or want another one to compliment the older larger disc sander.  From what I understand this machine will indeed replace the old disc sander once Jim's inventory of the old larger sanders is depleted.
 
I am unsure what the price point will be on this but I can tell you it will be more than worth the money.  Its not something I would be able to do without now that I have one in my shop.

Well gang, Speedwell is finished except for installing the anchors and adding coils over all the belayed ropes. It has been a seven-year collaboration with David Antscherl and I think the finished model has beautiful lines. She has just enough rigging to make it interesting without the repetition of a full ship rigged setup. Thanks to Chuck for his excellent blocks and rope which really dress up the model. All blocks for sails are included even though they are not present.
 
Thanks to all who have commented on her build over the years and I'll be back in the fall with, hopefully, a new project.
 

Had the guys over to the shop.  Tale of two Winnies.  One is mine and the other is Mikes (stuntflyer).
 

Carl, I'm not denying the history or suggest to remove Cromwell from all the books. I just don't want him anywhere close such a intimate thing like a model that you put hundreds or hours and elbow grease into   In the same way as I would never build a model of Herman Göring's yacht.
And, as Brian mentioned, I am lucky to have a choice - the ship was captured, slightly modified and renamed, it's not too late to pick the version to build. 
 
So back to the modelling!
 
Roughly 1200 holes were drilled, the Buzzr did its job perfectly with zero broken bits! 💪

 
Bamboo treenails were glued in

 
Resulting in a pretty satisfying sight  

 
Pointy bits were cut off and most of the glue was removed with a dremel with nylon bristle brush. The hull was covered in plastic since this process is quite messy, small bits of glue are statically charged a bit and stick to everything.

 
Now the best part - sanding and fairing. I really love this one, turns an ugly uneven surface into a neat and clean one (unless there are gaps)  
 
Hahn jig is really convenient for such work, since you can actually lean on it and rest your hands on it without damaging the model. That allows you to work precisely and for a longer periods of time with elbows resting.  I can really recommend constructing support like this even if you do not use Hahn's method. 
Nevermind my corona haircut

 
 
Wide gauge chisel (Pfeil #7) came in handy for removing the remaining glue residue in hard-to-reach areas, as well as fairing the planks. It's surprisingly easy to control, can definitely recommend this tool.

 
The rest was done with a combination of sanding, scraping and chiseling. Final sanding grit was just 400 instead of a usual 600-1200.
 
Here is the end result. Notice how the treenail color is quite different, even though they were all cut from the same wood that looks identical from the outside. I know the the nail pattern is not entirely correct, as an excuse - it was marked up a year ago!  





 
It's definitely not perfect, there are a few tiny gaps and dings, but it's good to practice on an internal planking (that would be barely visible afterwards), to build up skills for the more exposed areas.
 
Now it's time to apply some finish (at least to get an even treenail color), but I have no idea which one to use - these planks are actually the first boxwood parts on the model! All my finishing experiments were on pear, cherry and walnut, and the results are very wood-specific. I definitely do not want to turn this boxwood dark green-ish or dark yellow, ideally want to keep the color as light as possible. My guess is that oil is not the way to go, but some kind of sanding sealer would be better. Will make some samples and try all the main finishes I have before using them on the model.
 
Feels a bit wasteful to spend quite a lot of boxwood for these experiments, considering its price and availability... But I wasted less than budgeted on whoopsies and redos, so there is a bit of a reserve  
 

Found a very good video review - for the ones who have a number of questions about the internals of the saw and how various accessories actually work.
 

Interesting framing pattern! 

Just a few cents  
 
The best way to think about it is "put yourself into others shoes".
 
First problem is simple and technical: it's impossible to find your build log link. Even in this topic, where some may be encouraged to have a look - there is no link in your signature. I honestly thought "oh, sure, let's have a look and maybe I can help a bit" - but no, it would take too much clicks just to find it.
See https://modelshipworld.com/topic/23663-how-do-you-add-links-to-your-build-logs-under-your-signature/
 
Second - make sure your question is asked clearly, and preferably with photos. Keeping correct terminology is pretty hard, especially for a beginner, so just using words is not the best idea. For example - I found your topic on deck cutouts, but it's pretty hard to really understand without any pictures. What are these "cutouts"? How are they located in relation to masts and so on? 
A lot of people would either guess what you mean or just move over to another question, because it takes too much efforts to decode. 
 
Third consideration is a bit harsh, and I am not sure how to put it in a very neat terms - but first big heap of initial modelling knowledge is acquired mostly by reading other logs. Majority of newbie questions were already asked bajillion times, there are FAQs, manuals, tutorials and so on spread over MSW.
Even with best intentions, it slowly gets old to explain the very same thing for a dozen times, so people loose motivation to help.
I cringe when I read some of my first questions, I want to travel back in time and slap myself "just read the manual one more time before asking!". Using this moment to thank everybody who was helping!  
Ignore the particular vessel, just pick the build log where the build process is shown, not just the end result. Some logs are very educating, you will learn a lot from reading them. Basic techniques are the same. Do not hesitate to go to scratch build logs - there are fewer of those, but often they are very detailed and educating. 
 
The balance is delicate. Please do not be shy to post your updates and your logs! Everybody is welcome.
But think about it like a giant dance event. You come through the doors and you are in a crowd with thousands of people. They are open and a lot are keen to teach you and dance with you. But first you need to watch a few tutorials on basics, and then just start a small talk to get familiar with some of them. Make yourself friendly and available (see - build log signature). They are under no obligation to help you, but also there is physically no time to dance with everybody. You need to stand out of the crowd just a little bit, to make sure you will be noticed.
 
Good luck, and hope you will find your way and join one of the friendliest and constructive communities in the internet! 
 
 
 

It was trickier then expected
If you just put the top plank into the bow "slot", then it's just going vertical, without following the hull shape:

 

 
 
To make planks follow the shape of the hull, I lifted to top plank a bit higher on the bow, and tapered the second plank.
In hindsight it's pretty obvious, no matter how you bend the planks, they should be tapered. But I was too much following the instructions, and surprised that it was not mentioned there (or I was not reading carefully?)
 
So that's how the bow looks like when second plank tapered and first plank lifted higher (it's just halfway inserted into the bow slot):

 

 
The second plank was also a bit tapered on the stern:

Very fine quality work! And a nice photography as well
Thanks for showing your milling setups, some of them are quite creative!
 
One question though: when you milled ladders by using a double sided tape and a block of wood - how do you attach that block of wood to the mill table? I do not see any clamps there. Another layer of a double sided tape? 

JP, hope your build progresses nicely!
Just a small word of caution in that critical moment - check the alignment of the top part of your frames, next to the cutoff sections. These areas are thin, and would be very visible once the hull is flipped over. Luckily cutoff sections can be moved around a bit to compensate for it, but it needs to be done before frames are glued to the jig. Some strip of wood would help to check the alignment.
I was not so careful during that step and still see the results of that mistake..   

Thank you, amazing videos!
 
Sadly, the replica is now up for sale. Hope a good buyer will show up!
http://www.thelocal.se/20160527/giant-replica-of-swedish-18th-century-ship-up-for-sale

Thank you, amazing videos!
 
Sadly, the replica is now up for sale. Hope a good buyer will show up!
http://www.thelocal.se/20160527/giant-replica-of-swedish-18th-century-ship-up-for-sale

That was fantastic! Day well spent, strange that there are no reviews of this museum on tripadvisor
It was a pleasure to meet Gaetan and his wife, see all that models in person (logs are logs, but it is always better in reality!). We are a rare bunch, and when you meet a man who shares the same passion - this makes that day very special.
 
And now I know how the dream workshop looks like:

 

Could you please share a link to a David's method? Thanks a lot!

Tried Arkowood (https://www.arkowood-lossburg.de/). Was looking for a high quality wood supplier in EU, who have at least pear, Castello boxwood and ebony. Looks like I found it!
 
Wood quality:
Colour variation - very small, wood is finely selected. Thickness deviation: not more then 0.05mm! Finish: very smooth finish, feels like sanded with 300-400 grit. Other: 
Custom size milling: no problem with that, if you do not see the right size in their catalogue - just mail what sizes do you need. The price level for custom milled wood looks the same as for the standard cuts they have in catalogue Communication: excellent, I received a reply to my mails in a few hours! Wood cost - looks ok. Hard to compare, but looks on the same level as in US suppliers. However, you save some money on not paying VAT, customs, postage fees and extra shipping, that you are usually paying if ordering from US Payment methods: paypal is accepted. Delivery cost: quite moderate, regular postage price from Germany to other EU country. No feeling like you are getting overcharged for delivery. Processing time: they promised 1-2 weeks, I got the wood in 2 weeks. So quite fast, with correct estimations Packing quality: ok, no damages  
The photo of what I received.
Left - swiss pear (steamed pear), center - castello boxwood, right - ebony:

I have been talking to a man who supplies specialist woods. This is not a large and well known source.
Here is the situation: he has buxus offcuts that are too small to satisfy his existing customers and are of unpredictable sizes. Personnaly, I would like a handful of these 'scraps' but I think that the opportunity is here to claim a larger amount.
If anyone in the UK or EU wants some, for figureheads or whatever, just express an interest so I will know. I have no idea at all what costs are likely to be or for that matter whether there may be some larger pieces available. We can figure out logistics later.
I hope this isn't a wild goose chase. 🙄
 
Bruce

... and with the case I can mount the model on its final stand and start rigging it. Most of the details for the rigging was already ready, so it was not so many hours work. (This rig is not very complicated 😀)
 
Some of the lines need to be tightened a bit, but otherwise I'm happy with the result.
 

In the end I decided to do the shrouds in the same way as on the reconstruction. It uses a combination of "shroud needles" and blocks for adjusting the tension.
 

The anchor is made from wood and paper and is placed in the aft. This is from the practice that we follow on the reconstruction. Anchoring is always done with the stem towards a steep cliff with the anchor some boat lengths straight out. So the anchor is handled from the aft deck.
 

The next step will be sail and the running rigging.
 
Cheers
 
 

Thanks @vaddoc!
 
My best guess as to why the sides are so low is that it gives the rowers better angle towards the water for the oars. I don't think that cargo handling was a major concern. The hull shape is so narrow that cargo transport was probably not the reason for building the original. It is more likely that it had some patrol or defense role.
 
The building has been paused while I have built a case. Finally it is ready!

My first idea was to stain the wood to give it a aged look. But then I thought that the model, with its dark brown color, would stand out more against a slightly off-white backdrop.
 
Cheers
 
 

Just a heads up. A new company…actually a one man shop like Hobbymill is starting up in the USA.  Finally another source to by stripwood and sheets of precision milled wood.  
 
His name is Joe Volpe.  He will start off slow increasing the species he offers over time.
 
To start,  He will be offering Boxwood, Cherry and Alaskan Yellow Cedar.  Joe is the guy who currently mills all of my wood for Syren Ship Model.  He has decided to open up to everyone.  He also has some swiss Pear coming soon. 
 
He is finalizing the website and I will announce when he opens.  No online store as its going to be very similar to Jeff at Hobbymill.  You send Joe an email with what you need and he will give you a price.  You pay via PayPal and he lets you know when the order ships.  At least for now anyway.
 
Joe is a really nice guy and mills with precision.  I am very happy with his product and if you ever bought wood from me then you have seen his work.
 
I encourage you to give him a try once he opens.