Mike Y

Thanks for likes and comments, they help to move forward!
First made a bow sander and started to smoothen the lines of the transom wings:

 
Looks much better now. But the final shaping would be done later anyway, when I will fair the hull:

 
Now to the gunports.
I seriously underestimated efforts required. It took around 4-5 hours to make the first pair 
 
Square block of wood was used as a guide to ensure squareness and parallelism of the port sills. 
It also helped to file the edges of the ports on a proper angle. I struggled to find a proper working position - too low if you sit, too high if you stand. Ended up with this setup:

 
Careful sanding / filing took an enormous time, no way to use chisel for it (too tight, cross grain, might split).
Also, on exposed side sills were done in a semi-correct way - with angled joints, correct thickness of the lower sill, but the upper sill had the same thickness as the lower one (comparing to a fully correct way, when the upper sill is thicker). Making that angled joints was fun!

 
End result. Too early to say, the joint accuracy would be visible only after the fairing, which I can't do now - will sand away a lot of pencil marks on the nearby frames

 
Sorry for the mess, I hate to show all that glue stains, poly stains, rough edges - but too early to fair. It would be nicer, I promise!
 
Overall build status:

 
Hope that next gunports will be quicker - will measure better to reduce the sanding/filing time.
Would appreciate any hints or tricks. But I doubt there is any silver bullet - I was just totally wrong in a time estimate. With a speed of one gunport per week, I might not finish it before Christmas..

Thanks for likes and comments, they help to move forward!
First made a bow sander and started to smoothen the lines of the transom wings:

 
Looks much better now. But the final shaping would be done later anyway, when I will fair the hull:

 
Now to the gunports.
I seriously underestimated efforts required. It took around 4-5 hours to make the first pair 
 
Square block of wood was used as a guide to ensure squareness and parallelism of the port sills. 
It also helped to file the edges of the ports on a proper angle. I struggled to find a proper working position - too low if you sit, too high if you stand. Ended up with this setup:

 
Careful sanding / filing took an enormous time, no way to use chisel for it (too tight, cross grain, might split).
Also, on exposed side sills were done in a semi-correct way - with angled joints, correct thickness of the lower sill, but the upper sill had the same thickness as the lower one (comparing to a fully correct way, when the upper sill is thicker). Making that angled joints was fun!

 
End result. Too early to say, the joint accuracy would be visible only after the fairing, which I can't do now - will sand away a lot of pencil marks on the nearby frames

 
Sorry for the mess, I hate to show all that glue stains, poly stains, rough edges - but too early to fair. It would be nicer, I promise!
 
Overall build status:

 
Hope that next gunports will be quicker - will measure better to reduce the sanding/filing time.
Would appreciate any hints or tricks. But I doubt there is any silver bullet - I was just totally wrong in a time estimate. With a speed of one gunport per week, I might not finish it before Christmas..

Thank you Greg and Albert .
 
In case you thought I hadn't been doing much lately (yeah, a bit of "life" did get in the way ) I've cut all the frame pieces. Who'd have thought there were THIS many just for a little cross-section :
 

 
  Danny

I shaped and attached the bowsprit.  A couple of decades experience soldering in my model railroad hobby have made that element of the build easy.   Also, I'm getting the hang of my poor man's lathe using a drill, so I'll shape the boom and gaff now.
 

 

 

 

 
Erik

Hi, yesterday I visited my friend Aldo, you showed the photos of the model that has just finished
 

 

 

 

 

Hello,
thanks for the nice notes. It is a pleasure again.
In the following I will show the next steps to build a pinnace.
First, the gunwales are attached to the framework. Next, the keel planks are fastened.
The last picture shows a size comparison between chaloupe and pinnace.

 

 

 

 
 
 

It is a Tele.  I don't remember the pickups used.  I built it for a friend and he supplied the electronics.  It was a fun build because he came into town and I had him do the final shaping on the neck.  He worked on it for three days as I guided him through how to do it.  When it was done, he loved it. That was fun.

 
Not yet.  So far I've only built 5 guitars, 2 Tele-types, 2 Strat-types and 1 Ric bass-type.  I say "type" because I modify them, all except the Tele I mentioned above.
 
Figured woods are highly prized by many guitar fans.  The pros don't seem to be as enamored with it though.  I handed one of my guitars to the guy who is now the lead singer for Kansas.  Every non-professional I showed it to was gaga.  The Kansas guy was like, "Meh."  
 
I am far from a pro, really, really far, so maybe that's why I like figured woods.  When selecting lumber for the necks, I am always looking for woods that will really pop.  Some guitar builders don't use BLO because it adds a yellow tint, especially if you lay it on too thick.  They go to straight lacquer because they want a white maple look.  But if you like it to look aged, BLO will help give that look but you'll still need some tinting if you can't wait for nature to do its thing .
 
Something I forget to mention when making grain pop is using dye.  I use Trans Tint dyes,  They can be dissolved in water or solvent (like alcohol) and the color possibilities are endless.  It takes a lot of experimenting if you go DIY but some finishing pros have shared their formulas.  I have a finishing book by Teri Masaschi that includes formulas but most of the dyeing I have done was trial and error.
 
The beauty of dyes is how deeply it goes into the wood. (Stain just sits on top of the wood.)  Dye is great for closed-pore woods like maple but not so good for open-pore woods like pine.  I have not dyed redwood though.  The natural beauty of it seems best brought with an oil, like BLO.  And it doesn't seem to be noticeably affected by the yellow tinting.
 
We had a hot tub in the last house and the redwood paneling was shot.  I picked up some redwood 2x4s and 2x6s and milled them into replicas of the original panel pieces, being aware of the figured pieces (there wasn't much) and planning for them to go where they will be noticed most.  I then applied several coats of Penofin oil on each piece before I put it on the hot tub.  The figured pieces really popped.  But the Penofin didn't last. Three months and it was gone.
 

 
This is the start of the repaneling.  You can see the few figured pieces on the tub but the picture doesn't do the grain justice.  With figured woods, you have to view it from several angles to see the depth of the grain.  But since this is oil only, you don't get the same appearance as you would when putting a finish over it, such as lacquer, varnish or shellac.

Time to briefly show that I am progressing. I seem to have forgotten a lot of rigging skills (as I used to rather like rigging) but bits are startting to come back to me. Hopefully I will get the gaff up tomorrow.
 

 

 
 

I started the beams of the castle. Before fixing I have to prepare  the tree of the bowsprit to fit in its sill, and the foremast.  I made the bowsprit into four parts; it is a small corvette and I decided to do the same thing for the foremast and mainmast:

 

 
 
 
The cleat of tree parakeet has to be redone: I realized I had made a big mistake by joining the cross on the wrong side!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Made some progress on the planking the past few days.
 
Tony

Hi friends.
 
Plan amendment.
I now build the model of the midship to Stern.
 
Regards Karl   
 
 
T e i l  5

Hello,
 
here is the continuation of the construction of the longboat.
Pictures are worth a thousand words.
I hope you like it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Incredible! The build process looks so simple on your photos
What types of wood were used?

Hello,
it is done 
These battens cost me years of my life, but I'm glad that you have forced me to do it.
 

 
Then building the back supports was easy   My black alder bends wonderful.
 

 

 
The rest was routine
 

 

 
When I saw this picture, I got the brush out again and painted the rest I did't. The color was still wet at that time.
 
Regards,
Siggi

Finished the transom wings. It is an interesting area of the hull, a lot of fine tuning and shaping
Left the wings slightly oversized and with rough corners (too square), will properly shape them while fairing the hull. 
As usual, ignore the right side of the photo - it will be fully planked, so it is less accurate
 

 

 
Now starting the gunports.

Well I had to figure out how to get useable lumber out of those boxes of odd shaped cutoffs, I've not done that much woodworking since the 80's having worked mostly in metal the last 25 years so im rusty and have forgotten a lot of tricks.I found this one on youtube and it works great.Had to make an indicator holder for my little saw I bought way back then, a maple carrier board and a zero clearance throat plate, buy some tape and off to the races. This tape is only 10 bucks for 42"s and it STICKS, I use L thinner to clean up.
So you start by getting a flat edge on your work piece, sanded,jointed or sawn, attach it to the board and zero your indicator and make a first pass, there after just add the saw kerf and desired thickness.....I've been able to cut as thin as 10 thou using this. It will work until I have my little bandsaw back online and tuned up but I think this might work better anyway....and I still have all my digits

Thanks Greg.
 
The first pieces of the frames have been cut. I've made all the Floors first, as they are the thickest at 10 (scale) inches thick. If I run out of Pear before the new stock arrives I'll be able to run the remainder of my thicker stuff, including the leftover from the 10", through my Thickness Sander to get the thinner Futtocks and Toptimbers.
 
The Port side of this Cross-section will be fully planked inside and out as was the full model. I'm using simple scarph joints on the planked side - the open side will have Chocks between all the futtocks.
 
Note that these pieces are virtually straight off the scroll saw - there's a bit of finessing to be done yet. Every 2nd frame has a Floor, so only half of them are in these pics. Nothing has been glued in yet :
 

 

 
  Danny

Guys.....please quit with the metric vs. imperial bickering please.   It is what it is.....for Christs sake!!!!     Its like watching my kids argue about who would win in a fight......Superman or Batman........its beyond silliness and gets heated everytime.  I have deleted the last few posts because if read by anyone I can just see them shaking their heads...WOW!!!!!
 
Plus....we all know that after the alien invasion the entire world will have to convert over to fractenoids anyway!!!
 
 
Chuck

here is my work to date on the "pointy end" less the point!


 
 
.... and assembled to the first part done.
 

here is a sample of the beginning of my frame templates!
 
screen captures are a little grainy
when I finish the first set I'll post the PDF

So I am starting my build log and I don't know whether it will help or hinder the building of this model. Maybe others have some experience of the effect.
Started selection of the next model last year and ran into the history of Napoleon surrendering on board HMS Bellerophon 200 years ago.
I have wanted to do an admiralty board model for some time and was inspired by Phillip Reed's book "Building a Miniature Navy Board Model" but I don't want to go to 1:196 yet!  So this will be a semi miniature scale.
This is my first Build Log so I am getting oriented with the process.
 
TonyM

This is pretty funny.  As they say . . . necessity is the mother of invention.  Because I don't have any power tools, other than the basic tools most home owners have, I am forced to improvise.  I'm tapering the dowel used for the mast.  Pictured here you see my hand-me-down 30 year old drill holding one end of the dowel, while the other end is held by a hole drilled into my build-board.  I left extra dowel length on both sides of the mast.  I used my digital calipers to measure, and then mark, the diameter of the mast every few inches on the plans.  I measure regularly as I removing material from the dowel at the places on the mast that correspond with the plans.  I'm feeling kind of proud of my jury rig.  It's sort of a poor man's lathe. 
 

 
Erik

Started Planking Today, decided on walnut for the bottom planking and ebony for the wales.
 
Tony

Hi Ryland,
 
Thanks for checking in.  I have not been in the shipyard since April.  This is not what I had in mind for retirement.  I have been on the road since May working on two different independent cinema complexes.  I have only been home a few weekends since May and this will keep up until February.
 
The good news is that I am doing what I love to do and the job site activity is really good for me, it is a lot more exercise than walking from the Byrnes saw to the Byrnes sander.
 
I really miss the shipbuilding process and look forward to getting back into the swing of things.  Grant and Mobbsie are doing beautiful work and their logs are the best possible guide and inspiration I could have.
 
I was sorry to miss the NRG conference but there was no way to escape from what I am doing.
 
I will try to follow along more frequently until we hit panic phase again in December.
 
I hope that all is well with you and the rest of the MSW community.
 
Talk to you soon,

Another photos: