Jerry

Hi Gil, It's been a long time and i don't know if you remember me. Just wanted to say hello and also wish Allan the best of luck with the Trafalgar project. Regards, Jerry

To Popeye... If you read this, let me know what ever happened to your moving south? Hope you get this as I don't have your email. Best regards, Jerry

Hello Christian, Welcome to the wonderful hobby of building historical ship models. When all is said and done I'm sure , providing you have lots of patience. you will enjoy every minute of your venture. My suggestion is very simple. The best bet for you would be to go back to the store ( a hobby shop, I presume) and ask the same question. They should know what to set you up with and will get you started. And after you begin please feel free to ask me for any help with your progress. I wish you the best. Jerry

Good morning, Harry Sorry to take so long to answer you. I checked my model of La Nina and the eye bolts are indeed silver. Hope this helps. Jerry

Sorry, Harry, but I received an email that you asked me a question about gluing again. Is that true? Jerry

Hello dave, For what it's worth I took a picture of the top section of the foremast on my Bounty and am posting it here. It clearly shows a gap between the two mast sections so I agree that the Amati drawing is different than the actual build since there is a gap between the two holes. I hope you don't mind the picture on your blog. Best, Jerry

Hello Dave. My oh my, you are very aloof lately. Checked your log and man your Bounty is looking marvelous. You, my friend, are doing one hell of a great job. Can't wait to see your rigging.. Best, Jerry

Trust me, Dave, you're doing very well. The photos don't lie. Your progress is admirably at a fast pace and your model looks great. No one is going to fixate on your model's steering system, believe me. And if one does, you show much to be proud about. I'm looking forward to your next steps so keep going...Model ship building is fun, isn't it? Best, Jerry

Dave, You're probably fast asleep when this arrives but a quick question, have you checked my log, page 4? My posti may answer your latest question. Jerry

Dave, I will be busy for awhile in my shop. The video you posted has nothing to do with what I was writing about. I will try and sketch something next time to illustrate my method of merely tying a line (thread) around a block if you don't get what I mean this time.. It's really very simple once you understand what I'm talking about. To begin with , yes, a square knot is a reef knot. Lay the block flat on the bench. Make the first loop of the reef (square) knot and slip it around the block. Slowly pull the ends of the thread to close the loop around the grooves in the block. Tie the second loop to complete the knot and put a dab of CA cement on the knot. The ends of the thread should be long enough to attach the block to whatever you need to. Hope you get this. Jerry

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Dave, Please check page 4 of our build for pictures of the rudder and wheel rigging.. I don't recall having to make any of the parts for this assembly. I do believe everything was in the kit. From all the missing parts you have experienced I would complain bitterly to the party who sold you the kit. Kit bashing is a common practice but it seems you have an unfair amount of missing items. In the past, when I purchased a kit (Cutty Sark) with a lot of missing stuff I demanded compensation and was given an in store credit which i quickly used up, I may add. Keep a stiff upper lip 'cause you're doing very well. Jerry

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Good morning, Dave. Once again I didn't sleep too well last night so I'm awake fairly early and immediately found your post. Ah yes, display cases...Yes indeed, they are definitely not cheap. There are several ways one can go in this area and glass and wood framing is one. My friend, Lawrence Dalrymple made his display case for Victory with glass and wood. To do this can be fairly simple especially if one purchases a display case kit of which several are available. Four of my models are sitting in plastic cases, all of which I had custom made by a local plastic specialty shop. They are definitely not cheap but in my opinion make the best way to show one's work. I gave the shop the dimensions and they did the rest. I like plastic cases because they offer viewing of your model with little, if any, obstruction. The type of plastic I used is Acrylic sometimes called Plexiglas. The case should be made of 1/4 inch thick material. When you get ready for this step in your construction I will go over details as there are other things to think about, such as breather holes, etc. My display case for HMS Victory (see page 30 of my Victory) is huge and very specially made. It cost. at that time, well over $1000. Most display cases are one piece and put in place by carefully placing it over the model. It is impossible to do that with Victory as most would find the room's ceiling to low to raise the case over the model. So I designed this case with a removable panel. The case was placed on its table, the ship was put inside and the panel added and closed. Again check page 30 of my Victory log. Plastic is not cheap. Talk to you soon, Best, Jerry