bhermann

I just told them, get to your positions and get in 😂.
It's a simple photo trick everyone can do. I used ACDSee video software to create the sequence. Each move is one frame, then it's just a matter of time of display for the frame. It's a fun feature.
I can create a tutorial if someone wants to know how I did it. I won't say mine is the best, but it was my first try.

Well, she's finished!  Not yet on a stand or in a case, but finished.  I completed the sidelights last Monday and fitted them in the shrouds and did a bit of tidying up around the model and that was it.
 
I'm not sure what will happen to her now, but for the moment she'll remain in the model makers' display case at the museum as we currently have an exhibition on pearling showing.
 
Thanks to all those who have encouraged me over the course of the build.
 
Here a few photos.
 
John
 
 

Nice word Ja thanks for looking in
 
 
You are too kind Michael thanks a lot.
 
 
Totally agree Keith it is pretty sad when you get supplied fitting like this, for people who don't have the equipment to make it's a shame, I don't know what they were like back 30 odd years ago was not making ships then, but do appreciate your kind words.
   
 
Thanks Dennis for the info on were to get gears, but the fun in modeling for me is to work out how to make items and then make it, did make the small gears so that a chain from a aftermarket 1/12 scale motor bike would fit my sprockets 😁
 
 
 

 
 
Thanks Schooner, yea did machine the relief in the spokes, bit nuts eh, turned the shape in the lathe then cut teeth, machined spokes on the mill, you have a great question regarding plans as you know I am building from the kit Model Shipways and on the first page of the instruction manual they have this letter.
 

 
 
I like how Ben Lankford made scale drawing which you can build from, and as you see I have built as close as I can to them, I am not sure regarding Phil Esoner drawings which I have sheets 1 to 5 because they are different on deck furniture than Ben Lankford's but then I have the LB Jenson book with his sketches and deck furniture looks different again so which one is right 🤔 your guess is as good as mine, so I have tried to look at as many pictures for help but they can range from 1921 to 1946 just before she was sold and she did get a couple of refits over those years anyway thanks very much for your post, so I will carry on but I could be wrong in what I build.
 
Here's a side shot of her
 

 
Do want to thank you all for the likes as well as the comments do appreciate it 
 
Regards
Richard  

While I was changing engine box I noticed the boom crutch I made was not right as per the drawings (I think I was looking at Phil Eisnor drawing) and I had put the shaft for the engine hoist to low so have now made out of Boxwood as per the drawing provided, did find a picture on the web to help with my build if not allowed please remove.
 

 

 
Making the new boom crutch I looked at the kit supplied items and again the white metal parts were not very good and also see how I had made awhile ago.
 

 

 
Started by making the bearings out of brass and 1/32" shaft (it said on the drawing provided shafts were 2 1/4" dia) then made two pinion gears, one which will go under winch gear and the other to go on counter shaft stand, size was .148" dia x .044" thick and made it 12 tooth should have been more but only had a .020" ball cutter, this worked out to one tooth every 30 deg, did use two cutters started with a .031" ball cutter and finished off with the .020" ball cutter.
 

 

 
Then I looked at the winch gear and it didn't look right with my pinion gear so made the teeth part .045" wide by .500" dia made this with 36 teeth so every 10 deg used a .04" ball to start and then finish off with a .031" ball, then put in the mill and cut spokes did it right and cut six 😃 did the spokes by eye so they are a little out here and there, but it did match the pinion teeth fantastic.
 

 

 
In the end made all teeth an 8 tooth, and two 13 tooth (one should have been an 12 tooth but who's going to count 🤔) then made the bell shape winches and the teeth parts for the Pawl's
 

 

 

 

 
Didn't like the Pawl's supplied in white metal so made both out of brass
 

 

 

 
The last thing I made which was the most difficult was to make the counter shaft stand again did not like the white metal one, it was bigger than the drawing so made from brass angle and brass sheet, bearings I machined from brass rectangle each stand was made from six parts and soldered together, all parts were then blacken with Birchwood Casey brass black, last things to make will be the levers for clutch.
 
Whit metal stand

 

 

 

 

 

 
This was a first for me to make gears, and I found I had a great time making all of them and I do feel it is a big difference from the supplied parts.
 
Until next time
 
Regards
Richard

Agreed on the lack of glass.  On the Model Shipways plan they are listed as "Air ports", which indicate ventilation as the main purpose to my mind.  Because I have no detail inside the cabin, I painted a block of wood flat black and glued it to the inside of the cabin wall to finish them off and prevent any view to the undetailed inside.
 
Love these latest details you have added.  The boom buffer is a major improvement on the cast kit parts!
 
Bob

I was able to file the main mast partner piece to allow a greater rake, however, the mast step did not allow the heel tenon to slide forward enough.
 
Happy that I hadn't glued it in place, I was able to retrieve the mast step from inside the hull--

 
And I extended the tenon slot forward.  I also had to shorten the dimension of the mast tenon to allow even more forward play--

 
There is a deck stanchion that the mast step butts up against, which constrained the mast step, and even the heel of the mast.  You can see where I also had to file a bit of the heel flat, so it didn't project forward of the edge of the mast step--

 
This done, I could reinsert the step (where I think it will remain unglued)--

 
And check the rake.  Pretty close--

 
I used a different technique to sight the rake against the template, in which I put the template parallel to the mast but a bit offset.  This way I had room on the deck to put the bottom edge flat.  I think this is more accurate than what I was doing before in trying to hold the template right on the mast, and then having to angle the template around obstructions, or on top of deck hatches.  I rechecked the fore mast using this technique and found I had to increase the rake a little bit.  Fortunately there was enough play in the mast step to easily allow the adjustment--

 

 
Ron 
 

Agreed on the lack of glass.  On the Model Shipways plan they are listed as "Air ports", which indicate ventilation as the main purpose to my mind.  Because I have no detail inside the cabin, I painted a block of wood flat black and glued it to the inside of the cabin wall to finish them off and prevent any view to the undetailed inside.
 
Love these latest details you have added.  The boom buffer is a major improvement on the cast kit parts!
 
Bob

Agreed on the lack of glass.  On the Model Shipways plan they are listed as "Air ports", which indicate ventilation as the main purpose to my mind.  Because I have no detail inside the cabin, I painted a block of wood flat black and glued it to the inside of the cabin wall to finish them off and prevent any view to the undetailed inside.
 
Love these latest details you have added.  The boom buffer is a major improvement on the cast kit parts!
 
Bob

Last post I left off saying I should change the coaming on the skylight, well I removed and built out of Boxwood now with making it the same as the companionway coaming the size changed so now made the skylight again but this time made it with planks same as compaionway, planks were .031" x .0625" made the plank match the stanchions, also made the skylight top a little more curved, then once it was made I machined the portholes, will add clear plastic for the window after I paint it.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Not glued them in place yet, will paint them before they go in
 

 
I liked how the portholes came out to made two for the main cabin, did not like the wood ones I made earlier
 

 

 
Started to look at the Boom Buffer and I noticed it was not in good shape so cleaned it up the best I could but then decided to make one myself, so copied what was given but then I looked at the drawing and thought 🤔 
 
 
 
 
Make one as per drawing provided (drawing is 3/8" = 1'-0") so here is how it turned out
 

 

 

 
Do have one of the white metal for sheet buffer installed, but looking at it it will be hard to see so I think it can stay there.
 

 
Thanks again for all who look in and comment and also thanks for the likes,until next time
 
Regards
Richard

Bob,
Welcome back, it’s been a while. I’ll stay tuned.
 
Dave B

Carrying on with building deck furniture using Boxwood I made the grating 
 

 
Then made the forward skylight and companionway from Boxwood, here are the details from the plans
 

 

 

 

 
Starting with the Skylight made corners similar to main cabin corners, and made it to match the stanchions not the deck made the porthole frame yet
 

 

 

 
 
 
Then came the companionway, when taking the dimensions of the drawing I noticed I had made the coaming from fore to aft too small so I removed it and re-cut out of boxwood and made a new one (wish I had used Boxwood to make all coamings came out way better), sides front and back I made with boxwood plank strips glued together and cut to shape making sure the planks were 90 deg to stanchions , it has no hinged doors, just lift out doors so corners again were made as per main cabin but lift out door posts I machined a groove for the lift outs, then machined the slide rails for the hatch to open and close all parts made from Boxwood
 

 
Using the coaming I started to put it together
 

 

 
Machined the hatch to fit top of slide and then made another piece and machined to fit between rails and to go in slot this was then glued to lid, did this different to what I did on the cabin hatch, both ways worked out, added the roof and also added a piece of wood at the base of lift out doors.
 

 

 

 

 

 
It does not say if there was any handles for the lift out doors so have not added and I cannot find a picture.
 

 

 

 

 
I think I will remove the skylight coaming and redo with boxwood 🤔
 
Until next time 
 
Regards
Richard
 
 
  

Thanks for the photos, Richard.  Yes, I should have said I found pictures of the chainplates inlaid into the hull.  I am building the Model Shipways kit and when I read the note about them being flush with the hull, I interpreted that as being the outside face of the chainplates being even with the planking.  The photo I based my judgement on is here:
 
https://novascotia.ca/archives/bluenose/archives.asp?ID=88
 
In any case I discovered the information after I had laid the chainplates proud of the hull and I'll live with it. 
 
Bob

Hi Richard
 
I have been using the Nova Scotia Archive site for a lot of what I have done so far.  Most of the detail photos there are from later in Bluenose history, and there are some taken from dockside earlier in her career.  The site is here, if you don't have it.
 
https://novascotia.ca/archives/bluenose/
 
I also have visited the L. A. Dunton at Mystic Seaport and have several photos of her.  While she was built by Chapelle, she is contemporary with Bluenose and shares some detail.
 
I know you aren't there yet, one of my main regrets thus far is not placing the chainplates flush with the hull.  I didn't realize unto after I had installed mine that they should have been.  Pictures of Bluenose and my visit to the Dunton confirm this was the case.  Given the amount of work you have put in to accuracy of your model, I'm guessing you would want to do that.
 
Bob

Richard
 
I have been away from the forum for a while and just discovered your Bluenose.  The level of detail and authenticity you are putting into this is just amazing.  I will be following along as you proceed with the build.
 
Thanks for sharing all the great information on your sources and how you are approaching each of these "mini-builds", that will come together into one fantastic schooner by the time you are done with it.
 
Bob

Thanks for the photos, Richard.  Yes, I should have said I found pictures of the chainplates inlaid into the hull.  I am building the Model Shipways kit and when I read the note about them being flush with the hull, I interpreted that as being the outside face of the chainplates being even with the planking.  The photo I based my judgement on is here:
 
https://novascotia.ca/archives/bluenose/archives.asp?ID=88
 
In any case I discovered the information after I had laid the chainplates proud of the hull and I'll live with it. 
 
Bob

Hi Richard
 
I have been using the Nova Scotia Archive site for a lot of what I have done so far.  Most of the detail photos there are from later in Bluenose history, and there are some taken from dockside earlier in her career.  The site is here, if you don't have it.
 
https://novascotia.ca/archives/bluenose/
 
I also have visited the L. A. Dunton at Mystic Seaport and have several photos of her.  While she was built by Chapelle, she is contemporary with Bluenose and shares some detail.
 
I know you aren't there yet, one of my main regrets thus far is not placing the chainplates flush with the hull.  I didn't realize unto after I had installed mine that they should have been.  Pictures of Bluenose and my visit to the Dunton confirm this was the case.  Given the amount of work you have put in to accuracy of your model, I'm guessing you would want to do that.
 
Bob

Richard
 
I have been away from the forum for a while and just discovered your Bluenose.  The level of detail and authenticity you are putting into this is just amazing.  I will be following along as you proceed with the build.
 
Thanks for sharing all the great information on your sources and how you are approaching each of these "mini-builds", that will come together into one fantastic schooner by the time you are done with it.
 
Bob

Hi Richard
 
I have been using the Nova Scotia Archive site for a lot of what I have done so far.  Most of the detail photos there are from later in Bluenose history, and there are some taken from dockside earlier in her career.  The site is here, if you don't have it.
 
https://novascotia.ca/archives/bluenose/
 
I also have visited the L. A. Dunton at Mystic Seaport and have several photos of her.  While she was built by Chapelle, she is contemporary with Bluenose and shares some detail.
 
I know you aren't there yet, one of my main regrets thus far is not placing the chainplates flush with the hull.  I didn't realize unto after I had installed mine that they should have been.  Pictures of Bluenose and my visit to the Dunton confirm this was the case.  Given the amount of work you have put in to accuracy of your model, I'm guessing you would want to do that.
 
Bob

Richard
 
I have been away from the forum for a while and just discovered your Bluenose.  The level of detail and authenticity you are putting into this is just amazing.  I will be following along as you proceed with the build.
 
Thanks for sharing all the great information on your sources and how you are approaching each of these "mini-builds", that will come together into one fantastic schooner by the time you are done with it.
 
Bob

Starting on making the steering linkage system, I pinned and glued a piece of rod to the rudder then drilled a hole through the deck, then cut it down to size as per drawing provided.
 

 

 

 

 
Made a jig so that I could build the linkage off the model, made the same size rod and glued it to the same angle
 

 
Started with the bracket which went on the rudder shaft, machined the collar then machined two half circles 180 deg apart so that I could solder two small tubes for the connection arms
 

 

 
Did not use the first shaft I made because the nuts were to big so threaded some brass with a 1/16"-60 Whit die, threaded both parts but I know one needed to be a left hand thread and I didn't have one.
 

 

 
Then made the top shaft connection bracket, started with a 1" long piece of round brass, then taking another piece of the same size brass machined one of the side connection with the step, filed so that it would fit the round brass, for the other side I drilled a hole and inserted a piece of brass rod then soldered both parts, put it in the lathe and drilled and then taped with the same size 1/16"-60 Whit after that I saw cut to the size as per drawing.
 

 

 
Arms for the lower part were up next used .010" brass sheared to size, drill holes then made a spacer and soldered together then carefully bent them to shape, made the bottom shaft connection same as top except there are two step side pieces and also I did not tap. 
 

 

 

 
Last thing was to make the top link arm using .010" brass, shear to size, drill and filing to shape and the back bracket
 

 

 
So now to put all pieces together
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
I like to see how parts work and then build them in miniature, it was fun to make next up will be to install onto the rudder shaft.
 
Regards
Richard  
 
 
 
 

Wheel house was next, followed the drawings provided also found a picture on the web and in a book I bought showing the same as the drawing provided, date of pictures where of the Bluenose when she was sold  in 1946, again made all parts from Boxwood, pictures are to help with my build if not allowed please remove thanks.
 
 
 

 

 

 
Cut the four sides but before putting together machined a .030" ball for the groove should have done two small grooves but did not have a .10" mill, then I made the lid 
 
 
 

 
Made the coaming for the bottom and as the picture rounded the edge on the top, also put the chamfer on the front edges
 

 

 
Cut the slot for the wheel shaft and beveled the edges front and back to the lid, got to make those small hold clips  the groove is a little to close the the coaming but I will leave it as is. 
 

 
Here is a picture of the steering wheel which came with the kit, it didn't look the greatest so looking at the drawing supplied I decided to machine my own, drawing scale was 3/8" = 1'-0" and it gave a nice drawing of the shaft and linkage I thought why not have a go making all parts. found another picture on the web (of Bluenose 11) which gave me another view on how it went together.
 

 

 

 
Started by machining the rim (which in the real world was cast) in the lathe and machine the first face leaving some material so that once I parted off I could turn it around and machine the other side, then it was in the mill so that I could drill the holes for the spokes, drilled the holes bigger than the spoke so I could add tubing two times the size of the spoke, then parted it of in the mill with the table/chuck laying down 
 

 

 
The largest tubes I soldered to the rim
 

 

 
Machined the hub and drilled 8 holes, cut some small tube which will go on the hub, then made a jig so that I could solder all parts together without it moving, picture does not show the small tube by hub
 

 
Did make the shaft using small bolts and tube
 

 
Here it is after soldering needs to be cleaned up
 

 

 
Next up was to make the handles out of boxwood, I took a 1/4" tool steel and ground the shape
 

 

 
On the drawing by the steering house there was a unidentified round object so made that out of apple, made a lid to go on top
 

 

 

 
Thanks a lot for the comments and the likes 
 
Regards
Richard

Carrying on with the cabin I was looking at the drawing to see what smoke stack to use and I noticed it said the bent pipe may have been used when Bluenose was racing, so I look at another book I have bought which is for the Bluenose 11 by LB Jenson (great book) and in it there is a page for the original Bluenose which shows it with a Liverpool Head here is a picture if this is not allowed to be shown please delete so went on the web to see what a Liverpool head looks like.
 

 
 
 
I scale the drawing approx and here is my take on a Liverpool Head, started with smoke pipe and made connection plate to top of cabin
 

 
Then took a piece of tube three sizes bigger and machined four slots in the 0, 90, 180 and 270 deg then cut two small piece to fit inside the part I machined then two more to fit inside the small pieces to get the size all these parts were soldered together.
 
 
 

 
Got the gap I was looking for from the slot to the inside pipe
 

 
Then machined the head and cut two more thin pieces of tube to go on the outside of smoke stack and soldered all parts together
 

 

 
Will paint it sliver
 

 

 
 
Thanks everyone for your likes and again thanks to everyone who has commented.
 
Regards
Richard
 

Made some very small hinges using .5mm O.D x .3mm I.D brass tube then soldering a strip of .003" thk brass to it, then cut off excess tube and filed off excess solder then did the same as the hinges I made for bands. 
 

 

 

 

 
Came out not the best but these where very fiddly, marked where they were going on the companionway and CA glued, at this time did make the doors out of Boxwood then machined a rectangle grove in each one.
 

 
 
 
Laid out and mounted the other part of hinge to doors, CA glued them and then cut four pieces off .010" brass wire (have to try and find some .013" wire) and mounted doors to the companionway using the .010" wire
 

 

 
Next was to make the compass housing, again used Boxwood using dimension on drawing made the front and back then top cut some strips and glued all around, made a bottom glued this to the cabin top and top fit nice and snug so when I get around to making compass I can put it in.
 

 

 

 

 
Still got to make latch for doors
 
Thanks to everyone for likes and comments
 
Regards
Richard
 

Started by making the cabin companionway out of Boxwood using the drawings cannot find a picture of this area on the web ( if someone has one from 1920 I would love to see it  ) started by making the step covering the coaming.
 

 
Then made the sides used a couple of spacers to hold in place.
 

 
Then made the hatch
 

 

 
So at this stage I decided to make the hatch slide open but if this was going to happen I should make the stairs going down into cabin, so removed more of the bulkheads and installed floor and sides then made the stairs.
 

 

 

 
Now made the sides of compaionway to match the stairs
 

 
Adding the grove to allow for the sliding hatch I machined a .020" x .020" deep slot in each side and then made a .020" piece of boxwood same length as bottom of hatch one way and adding .040" wider the other, this is so I can glue to the bottom of hatch.
 

 
And it worked how I envisioned. 
 

 

 

 

 

 
Not sure if this is the correct way to have the hatch slide, and I don't have any drawings or pictures, so I have used artistic license  
 
Regards
Richard

Thanks for sharing, Jay.  The belaying pin coils look like the way I was taught to do it, a couple of turns around the pin flipping the last one to lock it, coil the rope in front of the pin, then pull the working end through the coil with a twist and loop it over the pin, forming a hanger.
 
Isn't it amazing how many jigs start with "put a nail (or two nails) in a block...
 
Bob