bhermann

Some of the bands required simulated hinges.  Here's how I did them.
 
Originally I tried gluing a piece of wire the the band but it did not hold up to trimming and filing very well.  So I decided to solder the wire in place.
 
I folded the wire so it "clamped" over the band and then used two hemostats to hold it in place for soldering.
 

 
Then I cut the ends loose and filed the remaining piece of wire.  Here is the final result.
 

 
The main boom has a couple of sheaves built in at the aft end.  I started with the idea of making working sheaves.
 
Drilling holes at the ends of the sheave locations was where I started this.
 

 
I then started to  carve away at the material between the endpoints with a rasp.
 

 
After going at that for a while, I decided I liked the look well enough and stopped after carving some of the material.
 

 
Bob

Next up, I started on the main boom.  It has a different set of hardware than the gaffs after the initial shaping is done and the jaws are added.
 
First a pair of belaying pins are put into the jaws.
 

 
A cleat is added on the port side.  I didn't pin it initially but I knocked it off enough times that I added the pin later.
 
Gluing and clamping the cleat.
 

 
and after install and shaping.  You can see that I mark top and forward directions - otherwise I'd forget..
 

 
The main boom uses a parrel rope, but no beads.  As there is no need for it to run up and down the mast, that makes sense.
 

 
There is a band with a bail - this was a bit complicated for me.  I started by wrapping the top and bottom pieces over the boom.
 

 

 
The two pieces are clamped together while drilling the holes for the bail.
 

 
Then the bail is soldered to the bottom of the band.
 

 
The top of the bail is them placed over the bail, a piece of stripwood is placed over the band and clamped with clothespins, and glued in place with CA.
 

 
After drying the whole thing is removed, the edges are roughly clipped, then finish filed.
 
Here are several of the bands that will be installed on the boom.
 

 
And in place on the boom.
 

 
Bob
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

JP - I'm glad to be of service - it is one of my "big 3" reasons for doing a log.
 
Thanks for stopping by, Elia.  I find that I am rediscovering things as I look back through the old photos.
 
Dave - yeah, those sails are scaring the crap out of me.  I have two different piles of cloth in the corner of the room waiting their turn... it's coming soon.  I look forward to seeing your success story...
 
And now a word on tapering spars.  Bluenose has two different types of tapering going on... the traditional symmetrical, taper to a point type that is done on the topmasts, and an asymmetric, one side stays straight while the other narrows that is used on the lower masts, the gaffs, booms, and bowsprit.  I am going to start with the second type.  I am showing the mainmast, but I used the same process for all of these.  First I lay the dowel on the plan and mark the final width at the end of the dowel and the spot on the dowel where the taper starts.  Then I put the dowel into the vice with the section to be removed rising above the jaws.
 

 

 
Once that is positioned, I sand everything off that is above the jaws until I am left with a flat side that gets wider at the end of the dowel.
 

 

 
After this is done I carefully sand the flattened section until it is round all the way up the dowel again, taking care not to remove any material from the side that has no taper.  The finished product for the main and foremasts looks like this:
 

 

 
The masts just have a taper at one end.  The other spars are tapered at both end (so they have a bowed profile when viewed from the side).  This is done by applying the same technique on both ends, one after the other.
 
Bob

For the symmetrical tapers I use a similar sanding technique (because I didn't trust myself to keep from removing too much material if I tried the "chuck the dowel in the drill" method I have read about.
 
First I lay the spar on the plan and mark corresponding points on the mast and the plan.


 
The I use the caliper to measure the width of the mast at one of the points
 

 
and to transfer the width mechanically to the dowel.
 

 
This spar has had several locations marked and transferred.
 

 
Then into the vice for removing excess material as I did for the asymmetrical tapers.  I do this in 4 different planes to form a square section which is then sanded round to finish up.
 

 
And here is the result.  The top of the mast will be shaped later to form the ball that belongs there.
 

 
After shaping, staining and painting (and a bunch of other work) this is what they look like.
 

 
Bob
 

Jan-Willem
 
Here are the photos you requested.  Hope it helps.  That solid block you see runs all the way to the stem where it wraps around the bowsprit.
 

 
I think the stanchion count is accurate.   I suspect that not every frame is continued above the deck so the number of stanchions is less than the number of frames.
 
Enjoy, and let me know if I can share anything else with you.
 
Bob

Jan-Willem
 
Here are the photos you requested.  Hope it helps.  That solid block you see runs all the way to the stem where it wraps around the bowsprit.
 

 
I think the stanchion count is accurate.   I suspect that not every frame is continued above the deck so the number of stanchions is less than the number of frames.
 
Enjoy, and let me know if I can share anything else with you.
 
Bob

Jan-Willem
 
Here are the photos you requested.  Hope it helps.  That solid block you see runs all the way to the stem where it wraps around the bowsprit.
 

 
I think the stanchion count is accurate.   I suspect that not every frame is continued above the deck so the number of stanchions is less than the number of frames.
 
Enjoy, and let me know if I can share anything else with you.
 
Bob

My most recent work (which means I've been working on the main gaff for over a year ) was to install a block on the underside of the gaff jaw.  The topsail sheet will be run through this block en route to a belaying pin on the starboard side.
 

 
This pretty much finished up the main gaff.  There is one more block for the topsail sheet at the upper end of the gaff but the only thing left to do there is to mouse the hook.
 
The fore gaff has much the same hardware on it except the blocks for the peak halliard are attached to bands rather than bridles, and there are two sets of blocks for the topsail sheet as it needs to be able to be set on either side of the main topmast stay.
 
Bob

The next thing is the linkage for the block that will be rigged to the throat halliard.  I built the first one by adding the parts in place on the gaff.  It was a pain to get the shackle installed through the links, so for the second one I assembled all the parts off the gaff, then installed the completed assembly.
 
First there are a couple of links to make.
 

 
The complete assembly is  eye-link-shackle-link-eye.
 

 
After that the eyes are glued to the gaff jaws.
 

 
And finally a shot with the block installed.
 

 
The parrell beads are beads I picked up at Michaels Craft store.
 

 

 

 
 
Bob

I added some blocks and other hardware to the trestle trees.
 
First the foremast.  Fore side
 

 
Aft side
 

 
main mast aft side
 

 
A couple of shots of putting tension on the line while mousing a hook.
 

 

 
Bob
 
 

This pretty much catches me up to date.  if there is anything I missed from the old log that you would like to see, please let me know.  Here are some shots of the mast detail.  If you look closely you will see holes drilled for "mast sheaves" in the topmasts.  I don't know what they were used for - my best guess is that they had something to do with stepping and unstepping  the topmasts.
 
Main mast top
 

 
Fore mast top
 

 
Main topmast detail
 

 
Fore topmast detail
 

 
Thanks for all the support and encouragement over the past few years - now to move forward!
 
Bob

In case I haven't shown this before (in this incarnation of the log) here is the setup I use for mousing hooks.  The secret for me is keeping the connection being moused under tension so I can have both hands free to do the work.  In this case that means putting a thread through the block being moused and clamping the end in a hemostat that is draped over the third hand so gravity will keep the line tight.  The spar is clamped into the Panavise.  Before setting up I tie the mousing line on the hook.  The knot winds up hidden inside the wrapping.
 

 
The business end of the previous photo
 

 
I then dab a little CA onto the hook, give it a couple of wraps and hold it in place for a minute or so.
 

 
Then I take the working end of the thread and put it back through the mouse with a needle and dab with CA again.
 

 
After trimming the excess thread, this is the result.  The hook will slide around the eyebolt but it doesn't come off.
 

 
There - the block for the main topsail sheet is now attached securely.
 
Bob

Jan-Willem
 
Here are the photos you requested.  Hope it helps.  That solid block you see runs all the way to the stem where it wraps around the bowsprit.
 

 
I think the stanchion count is accurate.   I suspect that not every frame is continued above the deck so the number of stanchions is less than the number of frames.
 
Enjoy, and let me know if I can share anything else with you.
 
Bob

Jan-Willem
 
Here are the photos you requested.  Hope it helps.  That solid block you see runs all the way to the stem where it wraps around the bowsprit.
 

 
I think the stanchion count is accurate.   I suspect that not every frame is continued above the deck so the number of stanchions is less than the number of frames.
 
Enjoy, and let me know if I can share anything else with you.
 
Bob

Jan-Willem
 
Here are the photos you requested.  Hope it helps.  That solid block you see runs all the way to the stem where it wraps around the bowsprit.
 

 
I think the stanchion count is accurate.   I suspect that not every frame is continued above the deck so the number of stanchions is less than the number of frames.
 
Enjoy, and let me know if I can share anything else with you.
 
Bob

I can never resist putting in my two cents on the issue of weather or not to include sails on a sailing ship model. I always try to advocate for including the sails since I view them as a defining aspect of a sailing vessel. The argument against sails is most often framed from the perspective that "they block the view of details on the model" and that they "are difficult". I will certainly agree that they are difficult! But I don't think that is an excuse to leave them off the model. The idea that they block the view of other aspects of the ship is true only in the sense that actual sails block the view of actual aspects of an actual ship. Thats how actual ships appear. Incidentally there are other things that are difficult to manage on ship models which ALSO block the view of deck details and are time consuming and difficult to make and install: Cannons! But you NEVER see people omit the cannons.

Starting out on some rigging. I rigged the shroud lines first. The problem I was having was color, should I use black or tan? Standing rigging is usually black, but I see a lot of the standing rigging on endeavour tan. I started black on the shrouds, then made the switch when I did the forward stay to tan. I will continue with tan. I hope the shrouds dont standout out as an outcast in the end being the on black rigging. I like it so far. Here are a few pics of the rigging starting.
 

 

 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 80 –Middle Deck Hanging Knee
 
 
I usually limit the content of these posts to progress reporting.  Except for some general comments I don’t usually do step-by-step demos in these. This post is hardly a tutorial, but I am spending so much time on deck beam knees that I decided to focus on making one of those.  There are roughly 250 hanging knees and an equal number of lodging knees in the model, so it is hard to ignore this process.  I try to follow Remco’s advice on these to treat every part as a separate model, but its not always easy.  Four or five a day are my limit.
 
We’re getting down to the wire on the middle deck framing.  As the beams get closer, the fitting of the knees requires more contortions as evidenced in the first picture.
 

 
The subject knee is being fitted under a half beam, so the beams fore and aft are already in place.  A few of these knees inevitably end up in the hold during this process.  After the knee is cut from one of several generic patterns, it is fitted by trial and error as shown – in and out maybe 6 times.  Most of the trimming is done with the disk sander.
 
Once it is fitted , the knee is removed to the vise for bolting and final finishing.  In the next picture the bolt holes are being center marked.
 

 
There were 15 to 18 1” iron bolts securing each knee.  I am aiming for about half that number – sometimes less - in the model.  In the next picture the bolt holes are being drilled.
 

 
This is a number 73 (.021”) drill to slip fit a bolt of 20 lb test black monofilament.  This is equal to a 1 ½” head at 1:72 – about the size of a riveted 1” bolt head.  In the next picture the monofilament bolt is being glued in with CA glue.
 

 
It will be sliced off flush with the razor blade.  The excess glue and any protruding monofilament is then filed off with a coarse rounded file.
 

 
This surface is then sanded with 220 and 320 grit paper on dowels.  In the next picture the corners are being rounded off.
 

 
Finally, the finished knee.  Note the notch for the deck clamp.
 

 
The last picture shows the glued-in knee in the center of the picture on the half beam.
 

 
In a later step, the knee will be further secured with a copper wire bolt inserted and epoxied through the beam and well into the knee from above.  Several other simulated bolts will then be installed over the knee in the beam.  Another copper wire bolt will replace the pin in the picture.
 
At this stage only one knee is left to do – on the half beam missing from the picture.  Then on to the lodging knees and ledges.
 
 Ed

LOL - if you do order the tap and die set make sure to get both RH and LH threads - so you can make those working turnbuckles!
 
I am not at a complete standstill - in fact my mind is going 200 mph, even though the build itself is crawling.  I did manage to finish making and cutting out the templates for the sail set.  Don't know if I'll use the fisherman sail, but I have it if needed.  I may add a third reef band to the mainsail - it seems too large not to have the option.
 
The sails laid out:
 

 
and where they are going to:
 

 
A closer look at the destination.  I see the mast hoops are too thick, but I have to remember I have a few extras on the mast in case of breakage.
 

 
Still working out the details of sail construction in my mind.  I am pretty clear on drawing the hem lines, not stitching them.  I am debating on whether to fold the hems over and glue them, or to get an iron-on edge and trim that to the actual sail size.  Anyway, here are a couple of shots of where I am at the moment.
 
Bob

Well, after having the summer to relax, the Emma C. Berry has come back to the build table.  She was getting a mite snippy sitting on the shelf in my business office.
 
Prior to resuming work, took a ride to Bangor yesterday to pick up a Harbor Freight work bench - the Admiral and son the elder helped get it set up.  After a bit of organizing this morning, have removed the temporary battens that I glued on (not the brightest thing I have ever done) and replaced with pins.  Also have beveled and installed the transom.
 
Next step is to fine tune the tops of the frames (a couple are just a smidge long or short - fortunately they get covered by the covering board and are hidden) then prepare and install the clamps.  From there, into the building of the interior - that should take quite some time!
 
Profile view
 

 
View from the stern
 

 
A quick tour of the reorganized shop.
 

 

 

 

 
 
Many thanks!

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 79 –Middle Deck Framing continued
 
The middle deck framing continues.  The first picture shows the opening for the large water tank being framed.
 

 
The header between beams 16 and 20 has been installed and the half beam at 18 fitted temporarily.  The large 6000 gal fresh water tank will fill most of the space in this opening from its base in the hold to just under the main deck beams.
 
 In the next picture the hanging knee and the pillar under the half beam are in place and the half beam is ready to be installed.
 

 
The smaller 2000-gallon water tank will come up to just below this deck .  Its top will fit in the currently unframed opening between beams 16 and fourteen in the upper right of this picture.
 
In the next picture the pillar under the starboard half beam is being fitted for size.
 

 
The next picture shows this area looking down and aft.  The paired pillars on either side of the tank opening can be seen in this picture.
 

 
The next picture shows the extent of framing aft of midship completed to date.  One full beam and two pairs of half beams remain to be fitted – then the lodging knees and ledges.
 

 
Some of the lodging knees have been fitted at the aft end of the deck.  The last picture shows the stern view opening.  As mentioned earlier, this one shows only the space between the middle and lower decks.
 

 
The exposed ends of the frames have been fairly well squared off in this picture, but there is still finish sanding, etc to be done.  The outsides of the frames have been faired, but final sanding and finishing cannot be done until many more simulated bolts are installed.  Those in the picture are bolts for the deck clamps and for the heavy internal bilge ceiling.  Bolts for deck knees have not been installed yet.
 
 
 Ed

Yards and booms fitted.



 

I haven't posted any updates in a while. Mainly just working on more deck stuff. It's getting pretty cluttered, and still have all the outer eyebolts to add. This pic mainly shows all of the wooden cleets that are scattered about the deck. I placed them as accurately as I could to the plans, and angled them as the plan shows. The cleets came as cast metal and were suggested to be painted brown to look wooden. I see some leave them as chrome, but I took the wood route. I like to try to my paint items look real like real wood, but couldn't really do much with these little suckers. So, they are just pretty much a solid flat brown.
 

Once everything was added to the side panels they were glued into place.  The first thing I did was to tack the bow sections in place so I could make sure everything was even on both sides.  And glued the sides to the hull.  I then noticed that one side was about a 1/16 to short.  So I cut a section and added a strip to make it fit.  A little pressure and the seam is hardly noticable.  I will proceed to hide it as I proceed with the model.





David B

I have been able to get some more into the Maine and was able to finish off the two cabins.
And here is where I found that rubbing alcohol can be your best friend. 
While fitting the roof of the forward cabin I noticed that the walls were not fully aligned.  By using a brush and a drop of rubbing alcohol I was able to reposition everything for a better fit.  Plus the alcohol evaporated quickly and did not stain or damage the material.  Once the roof was placed to my satisfaction I glued it down using a weight to hold it until the glue dried.  Then a little touch up with a brush and it is about as good as I can make it.
.






David B