bhermann

At the bow
 

 
At the Mizzen
 

 
Lots of touch ups to go, but overall I'm pleased with the change.  At the work table in incandescent light or daylight, the ship takes on a much more realistic appearance.  Are we our worst critics?  Probably yes.  Will my grandchildren notice or care?  Probably not.   Cheers, Gil

PAINTED RIGGING OR "Doing it the hard way."
 
Hopefully most of you will never need or want this technique.  You will select the desired color and pre-treat the lines before embarking on the rigging process.  Having said that, when I began rigging the cannons and running rigging, I thought that the light tan or "natural" line from JoTika would work.  However, the more I progressed, the lighter it appeared.  In incandescent light and particularly in photos, it appeared white.  Playing with white balance and color editing in the camara and computer simply introduced unwanted color hues and tints.  Finally, when adding rope coils, the "white" took center stage and to my eye was not satisfactory.
 
I've likely bored many of you with attempts to match Manila or hemp with a paint wash to paint the rigging.  Why on earth mess up a pretty good model by painting the rigging????  Is anyone that dumb????      Well......................
 
Supplied "natural" line supplied by JoTika.  C/A applied on the left, untreated on the right.  However, the rigging appeared white.
 

 
Paint wash selected after experiments.
 

 
Masking to protect the deck.
 

 
Notice on the mizzen.  Starboard rigging has been painted while the port side is untreated.
 

 
Using a hook to separate the line from the yard.  Tiny brushes used at the deadeyes.  I found it necessary to change brushed frequently for they became gummy rather quickly.
 

 
The next posts show comparisons between the "natural" lines and the painted lines.

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 43 – Bilge Ceiling, Iron Strapping
 
Historical Clipper Note: A number of different structures were installed inside clipper ship hulls to increase strength and help defeat hogging, the most serious structural threat to wooden ships apart from rot.  Hogging is the tendency of hulls to droop at the ends.  It resulted from the reduced buoyancy at the ends of ships as the flotation area of the hull got smaller.  It was further aggravated by localized stresses as waves passed under the hull.  This was a particular problem in clipper hulls that were very long and had very fine lines fore and aft.
 
In addition to large keelsons, weight reductions at the ends, moving foremasts aft and some features discussed in earlier posts, additional structural members inside the hull were also used.  These varied from builder to builder.  These included massive additional keelsons in the area of the floor heads, various forms of heavy ceiling timbers, long diagonal wood “pointers” and ironwork.  From what we know of William Webb’s designs, he seemed to favor thick “bilge ceilings” – bands of heavy planking from below the lower futtock heads up to the lower deck clamps - rather than bilge keelsons or pointers.
 
An 8” to 7” thick bilge ceiling and iron strapping were the most likely combination used in Young America and that will be the configuration I will use on the model
 
After some deliberation – discussed in earlier posts – I finally decided to install the strapping on the inside of the frames.  Although this is not known to be the original configuration, it is most likely based on some references and Webb’ practice on other ships.
 
The strapping was installed on the frames under the ceiling planking.  Because installing the strapping requires some hammering on the frames to rivet the straps in place, I wanted to get a couple of ceiling strakes in place to make the frame structure stronger before beginning the strapping.
 
The first picture shows the first strake of the bilge ceiling being installed.  These are 8” x 8” members bolted through the frames from a few feet above the floor  heads decreasing in thickness to 7” up to the lower deck clamp
 

 
The strake being installed is at the heads of the lower futtocks.  This strake and the others in the band, follow the curve of these futtock head joints.  Fore and aft they converge under the lower deck clamp to form a sort of truss to resist bending of the hull.  This was definitely the configuration when bilge keelsons were used and it is likely the bilge ceilings followed this practice.  Once this line is set by the first strake the others above and below it will be installed.
 
The next picture shows a closer view of the bolting and one of the joint scarphs.
 

 
Copper wire bolts have been epoxied through the frames.  The dark area is isopropanol used to wash off the epoxy – not yet dry.  Epoxy will help assure that the wire will act as true through bolts.  In practice these were iron, so they will be blackened before final finishing.  The second bolt at each frame pair will be modeled using black monofilament.
 
The next picture shows the copper bolts coming through the frames outside.
 

 
These will be clipped off and sanded flush as part of the external fairing process.  It can be seen that the bolts come through the lower futtocks just below the heads.  I am considering leaving a few view ports on the exposed framing side of the hull.  The bottom of these open areas would be at the floor heads, so the bolted inside members should provide plenty of strength around the openings. The tops of these openings will probably be at the middle deck clamps.
 
With a stretch of ceiling in place I was anxious to try out some iron strapping. The first picture shows the installation of a test area.
 

 
I decided I wanted no part of recessing all these into the frames.  For the most part they will be covered with inboard planking and will only be visible between frames on the outside, through the view ports if installed, and down through unplanked deck areas.
 
The next picture shows a closer view of the straps and their fasteners.
 

 
I used .005” copper for the straps, cutting them to size with a paper cutter, and then stretching to straighten them.  I considered using .010” strips but these would require recesses.  The thinner material should not affect the planking glue joints.  Planks will also be bolted so should be quite secure.  The difference in thickness is virtually undetectable visually.  The actual thickness would probably be somewhere between the two sizes.
 
The straps are held in place by copper rivets - 22 gauge copper wire – some through and some partially through as “blunts”.  Like the real bolts, the heads are peened over to secure the strips.  I initially tried to get all of the intersections on frames for bolting, hence some uneven spacing in this first area.  I will not describe all the steps in detail – or the journey up the learning curve to get acceptable-looking straps.
 
These must of course be blackened before being planked over – to avoid glue spots that would interfere with the etching.
 
The next picture from outside the hull shows some strapping blackened using liver of sulfur solution.  This will be the predominant viewpoint for this feature.
 

 
This picture shows some inevitable crossing of straps between frames.  I doubt that I will try to rivet these intersections as was done in practice, except where they fall over a frame.  A few strapping rivet heads can be seen on the outside of the frames.
 
The strapping will be installed over the full length of the hull up to the upper deck clamps.  The next picture shows some correctly sized clamp material – for the lower and upper decks - temporarily held in place,
 

 
This shows the convergence of the ceiling and the lower deck clamp mentioned above.  The 7 to 8” bilge ceiling would fill the area below the lower deck plank and continue for a few more strakes below those installed in this picture.
 
The straps will be cut off above the upper deck clamp.  The strapping is fully extended forward in this picture.  The middle deck clamp will fall midway between the two shown.
 
I now foresee a considerable amount of strapping work, punctuated with some bilge ceiling and perhaps deck clamp installation.  Should be interesting.
 
 Ed

Build log part 6
 
 
 

here is a terribly bad and wrong glued together wreck of the 1951 version (Heller 1:150) Pamir Hull, built by unknown...., but I saved it from the bin. It Looks like it ran on to the rocks of Cape Hoorn, but never the less I was only after taking cross check with the own 1:96 hull dimensions. I even sold that hulk at Ebay afterwards to someone else and for the same reason.
By the way, the assebly instruction Manual of the Heller kit, for whoever is able to get an exemplar, bears amoungst other valuable information, beautiful Explosion typ drawings of all individual parts, a great help !
 

leaving open the last Planks came very Handy for clamping down the decks
 
 

started to begin with several cardboard templates for the belaying pin racks Arrangement.
It was my decision to put all the rig (static ad running ropes,lines, chords, stays, Tacklings, bracing tackle, etc...) in full functional way to the rig. I asume there is not a Feature not modeled in to this ship
 

here just a Little Trial model
 

important to fix the Counters on the bottom deck side, same Little model
 

in accordance with the handscetch a made before
 

some of the many pin racks, semiround brass edge on the rope wear side, wooden semiround on the other
 

These also take up the shrouds- and backstay fastening bolts as well as the many individual pins
 

all eyelets have sufficiant Counter Points beneath the decks
 

eyelets within the mastgarden racks
 
 
 
Build log part 7 to follow...
 
 
Nils

Masts and yards are coming together.
 

 

Finished my first set of rat lines, given the scale of 1:100, it was small to work with, however I struggled through it.

The main topsail has landed!
 
This was a bit tricky since there are two halliards, one on each side. The first part is looped around the topmast, comes down to the double block on the spar, goes back up to a block on the crosstree and then finally down to the deck. A bit of juggling.
I did this to hold the whole works in place for now. Next comes taking care of all those 'extra lines'.

But now I need a glass of sauvignon blanc to cool my nerves.

I've finally made some (small) progress on the build.  Progress meaning actually affixing parts to the ship, and not just playing around with aluminum cans.
 
After several days of cutting thin (0.5 - 3.0 mm) strips of aluminum, and embossing these with a ponce wheel, I finally decided to actually start fitting some of the better looking ones to the ship, starting with the inboard sheer strake to bulkhead riveting, and then the vertical reinforcements around the freeing ports.  One inboard port is done.

build log part 5
 
 
 

a good base for Fixing the poopdeck on
 

same for the midship high deck, on the "keel-spine" the counternut for one standbolt can be seen
 

bow bulwark planking also done vertical
 

the Forward main deck reaches well under the upper forecastle deck
 

Fitting vent tubes preliminary, to see if the frontside of poop bulkhead notches are adequate
 

here again the hull lines clearly to be seen
 

the decks are from 1,5 mm 4 layer aero plywood
 

handscetch for scaled heights of belaying pin racks and bulwarks
 

planking of poopdeck, with 1 x 3 mm Pitchpine (to be cleaned and sanded over later on)
 

length several lots of cut pre-bundled and clamped deckplanks pencil-charcoaled at their thin- and face edges only
 
 
 
 
Build log part 6 to follow....
 
 
Nils

Build log part 4
 
 
 

3/4 planking done
 

waterline with preliminary pencil marking
 

vertical planking of spherical round upper Stern portion
 

waiting for the glue to dry off
 

this is a great Moment, the ship has been lifted off the baseplate for the first time, Hull sanded over, all Looks OK. Prop and shaft claddings as well as ruddershaft fitted
 

meantime the stand with its three brass Posts has been made and fitted
 

Planks just before the decklines left open for enabling Access underneath to the decks when they get mounted
 
 

 

all bukhead heights brout to appropriate deck levels
 

The decks are in preperation already...
 
 
 
Build log part 5 to follow
 
 
Nils

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 42 – Internal Hull Work
 
With the hull framing finished it was time to step back and consider the right construction sequence going forward.  Rather than go to work fairing and sanding the outer hull as I has anticipated, I decided to focus next on some of the basic internal structural elements.  Installing some key internal longitudinal members will add a lot of strength to the frames, in particular the connections of the full square frames at the keel.  These joints are rather weak and may not stand up well to outside sanding.  In practice this joint was strengthened by use of a very heavy garboard strake (the plank next to the keel) that was bolted up through the floors and lower futtocks.  This 9” thick block was in turn edge bolted into the keel.  The garboard was a much more important structural member in these ships than the familiar 18C RN subjects.
 
The first step was to fair out the inboard sides of the frames.  The full square frames had been carefully checked for fairness before locking them forever into place when the keelson was installed.  The careful pre-beveling of the half and cant frames and the use of the topside ribband to set these resulted in a pretty fair surface.  A few had to be removed and reset.
 
The first picture shows the first sanding/fairing step using 120-grit paper and a “soft-sander” foam pad.
 

 
Once all the surfaces were faired out with the 120-grit paper, 220-grit was used to start smoothing the surfaces.  In the next picture a round piece of a soft-sander pad is stuck to a vibrating sander and it turn has some 220-grit paper attached to that – all with two-faced carpet tape,  A few different pad shapes were used. 
 

 
This was followed by 320-grit, using the same device.  There was also a lot of old-fashioned handwork with all this sanding.
 
In the next picture the wood is being given a final polish with #0000 steel wool.
 

 
I don’t like using steel wool very much – it leaves a lot of steel fibers lying around and this also adheres to steel tools.  But after years of searching, I have found nothing that polishes bare hardwood like steel wool, so I am using it here - #1, then #0, then #0000.  All the tools are cleared away before doing this and the shop-vac comes out frequently.
 
With the inside of the hull given its final polishing, the lines of the deck clamps were scored on the frames as shown in the next picture.
 

 
A thick pine batten was first clamped to the frames as shown.  The heights of the clamps were taken off the inboard arrangement drawing with the calipers shown below.  These will be familiar to those who followed Naiad.
 

 
To allow the measurements to be transferred to the inside of the hull a thin strip was taped on top of the original arm to fit through the frame gaps.  
 
The next picture shows the batten set at the height of the middle deck.  The lower deck clamps on both sides have been marked.  The upper (or main) deck clamps will be just below and essentially parallel to the temporary ribbands clamped to the outside of the frames.  When those clamps are installed, the outside ribbands can be removed
 

 
Removing the temporary ribbands and strengthening the framing with internal members will allow the outside of the hull to be completely faired and finish sanded from the keel up to the top rail.
 
In the next part members of the “bilge ceiling” will be installed below the line of the lower deck clamp.
 
 Ed

It has been a while and I need a refresher course about sail lines.
Here is the main topsail with all the running lines attached. They all have a port and starboard mate.

The leech and buntlines go through a small double block and that is why I show them together in one spot. You can see the small block on the right side. All of these lines, except the clewlines, go through a block that is attached to the topmast crosstree. I still have to install those. From there they go down to the deck in front of the sail.
The clewline goes through a block that is lashed to the spar (as shown) and goes down to the deck from there in the back of the sail. The bowlines go up forward to the foremast, and the sheets go down to a sheave in the main jack below.
 
Confused? I am glad I have the drawings handy.

I pretty much have to say that at this point my build of the Bluenose is finished.  There is nothing else I can do except put it on the shelf and admire the finished product.
 
All the pieces of the display case were cut at our community woodshop.  That kept all the sawdust out of my garage and house.
 

 
All the parts were tested to see if everything went together as planned.  I had to make a small adjustment to the groves in the base, but other than that it went together nicely.
 

 
Here is the finished build.  There really is nothing else to write down.  I will post some photos in the Gallery of competed models.
 

 
Note the nameplate holder.  The USB Flash Drive with my complete build log, resource material, and all photos is encased in the box built into the holder.
 

Having finally completed the Triton x-section, it's time to return to this, my first attempt at a plank on frame scratch build. It is the Tasmanian built barque Harriet McGregor from the plans by Harold Underhill, scale is 1:60. Originally started before Dry Dock Models was in operation, I lost interest in it due to the number of mistakes made in the earlier stages of construction that began to affect the build at the current point. The worst mistake: frame extensions above deck level should have been reduced in thickness prior to the waterway installation. I have done what I can to rectify this without pulling the waterways out (not practical), but will have to live with the consequences and work around the problem, hoping other small details will draw the eye from the larger inaccuracies. Having said all that, the model to date does bear a vague resemblance to the plans.
 

 
Grant.

build log part 3
 
 
 

am satisfied with the result so far
 

making thoughts about prop outcut and rudder blade Arrangement, corresponding to one of the various changes after 1951
For manouvering in Harbor Areas, in South American ond other bay Locations, shallow Waters, and in lack of wind, a 1000 PSi Motor had been built in, as well as a 2,5 m dia 2-blade Propeller. The other Major changes after 1951 I shall Point out later on
 

the coming planking will be so much easier if the stringers can be used as Counterparts to fasten the clamps. These stringers also give enormous strength to the planking itsself
 

all well under way now
 

here Comes the first plank (pine as Long as the hull 2 x 10 mm)for single layer planking.
I cut These Planks myself out of fine structure boards from the crafters. This hull shall also be plated later, so the 2mm thick planking provides sufficient thickness for smoothing down the outer surface well enough for the plating
 

thats partiall enough for the starboard side, pull up the port side planking now....
 

same Status from bow view
 

both sides planking is heading for the keel
 

Little propshaft mounted and 2-blade Propeller fixed (M3 thread)
 

this is one of the three foreseen standbolts, because this weakens the keel there have been wooden reinforcement claddings fixed to it from both sides within the hull
 
 
 
Build log part 4 to follow....
 
Nils

Build log part 2
 
 
 

working out and drawing the individual Frames in order to suit this build
 

each Frame gets its own 1:1 drawing on paper
 

rough cut out of the paper and fix on 4 or 5 mm thick plywood
 

an obligatory base plate is set up to Keep all in alignment and to get (and keep) the keelline straight during the further build
 

cut out Frames in preliminary set up, to see if all Frames are straking well
cross check, yes it Looks like Pamirs lines of the early hull
 

the model is being built keelside up, the Frames complete cut out, and the notches for the stringers done
 

all looks well so far
 

due to the fix on the baseplate all frames bear Surplus height, to bring (only interim, will be cut to suit later on)to the same level
 

like a strong man Needs a strong Backbone, I have arranged for a "spine" 20 x 20 mm square beam to reinforce the hull for taking on the induced tensile stresses of all the stay and shrouds spanning, working on the hull later on. I never regretted to do this...
 
 

well under way now, the stringers as well as the ships lines clearly to be seen now
 
 
 
Build log part 3 to follow...
 
Nils

Sailing ship, fourmast-barque PAMIR in scale 1:96


Introduction to this build log, by Nils Langemann


For modeling one of the famous “Flying P-Liners” of the last century, my choice fell on the PAMIR because that ship probably would be supported with most available information one can get in the appropriate media. Much has been written about the various owners, the crews,the routes, etc, and all this illustrated on the web, in literature, reports, photos, paintings and models in all qualities and scales, without here considering many various very good moulded plastic kit models.

Most of all was reported about the tragic loss in Sept. 1957 when the hurricane “Carrie” called for its tribute. 80 of 86 crew members, mostly young men, lost their lives after their ship had finally capsized and sank within minutes, southwest of the Azores islands of the Atlantic, this causing the to date largest and most intensive post WW2 international coordinated search and rescue operation in the civil marine history. Trust the older MSW members still remember the news-clips and film reports of the 6 wounded roughbeaten survivers and their pictures as they told their story, after being rescued from their broken lifeboat wreck-hulks and after several days ongoing struggle for life.

Most of the available plans for modeling the 1905 at Blohm an Voss built and launched Pamir, as well as many models exhibited in worldwide museums show the Pamir in all versions as she looked like before 1951, several changes in paint and slight modifications, acc. To the owner and nations and to suit its owners cooperate identity appeal had been made.

I was looking for an authentic plan of the version after the major changes at the Howaltswerke- Deutsche Werft, Kiel in northern Germany in years 1951 /1952, and after which the ship was under the Hamburg based subsiduary of shipping company Zerssen & Co, whereby the homeport was Lübeck. A couple of german shipping companies founded an association that together with Zerssen as the ship relevant managing part, enabled the training of young civil nautical and sailor-handcraft in a win-win situation for both trainees and shipping companies. The old well known Laeisz colour of the P-liners had been chosen again, and the ship, still being a trade cargo vessel under sails routed to South American ports around the Cape Hoorn performed many trips. At the same time the Passat, (today still afloat as Museumship in Travemünde near Lübeck, Germany) was also changed and appointed for same further activities.
The plan of performed changes was available and purchased from the Howaltswerke shipyard, and for the Frame/ Bulkhead plan I found authentic original Blohm and Voss drawings in a book of Hamburgs sailing ships 1795-1945, Author Jürgen Meyer. This model took me two years to build, and it is comprising about 1950 manhours modeling. More about design, preparing for the build, construction as well as information on the model will be given along with the Build log sequences as they are posted….
The already completed model 1:96, length 119,5 cm, can be viewed in my album, topic “Gallery of completed scratch built models”, Pamir 4-mast barque version as 1957

For all that also love these wonderfull squarerigger tallships, enjyoy and stay tuned to the build log….

Nils


I ca`nt realy say today how many log-parts in total it will take, it depends on how much interest the fellow MSW members shall have as to the extension of the individual build sequences. If the interest should be like it was with the Heinrich Kayser build log, it probably would be the "whole program"

Nils


here we go....

Build log part 1


I am lucky to have my own hobby-room office


These are pics of the proud and sturdy built Pamir which hundreds of nautic Trainees may have in good rememberance




in Sept 1957 came the shocking flash-News of the foundering of the ship, and also over the to date greatest post WW2 search and rescue Operation in civil marine history.
This frightning realistic pencil drawing by Artist Franz Richter Johnsen I feel is so emotional touching. It is showing the Pamir in its agony just before capsizing (masts down) and thereafter to sink within minutes. That was an indication that the hull must have been broken, otherwise it would certainly have stayed afloat some hours, even in that illfated position, and the S&R Groups could have made her out better


I was often asked what plan-drawings I had for doing this project, and would like to bring attention to two very informative books... (I am in no way associated with the authors or its Distribution)
There is first : Hamburgs Segelschiffe 1795-1945, author, Jürgen Meyer, can be found preferably at book antiquariates
it contains amoungst many other beautiful Tallships, copies of original Blohm + Voss Pamir plans.


The Basic Frame / bulkheadplan was used for my model


There is second : a relatively new publication, Die Letzten Flying P-liner, by Andreas Gondesen, who I consider as one of the best knowledgeable authors of the famous P-Liners, their History, as well as pointing out the differences between Pamirs several "Sister" ships, hardly known to the public.
The great benefit of this book is the wonderful accurate detailed large plan in poster Formate of the Pamir in scale 1:100, that comes along included with the publication. (it is representing the Version before 1951 though), but never the less a must for Pamir modelers


outcut from Gondesens Pamir plan


many handscetches had been made by myself, here only some examples


for those of you who know how good the extruded quality and precision of the Heller plastic Pamir kit and its moulds are in scale 1:150, I took the measurements for the various deckhousings from a wrecked plastic torso I found in a bin, and magnified these ratings to scale 1:96
Whoever does not know the Heller kit, please be advised, it is representing the precise Pamir Version of 1951 /1952 in top quality, but on a high skill Level

Together with a plan comprising all the changes to the Pamir from Howaltswerke Deutsche Werft in Kiel, I was ready to get my project under steam at last......


Build log part 2 to follow...

This past week, I got a little more decking done and I also added the rubrail along the sides of the hull. This is a 1/32" square piece that follows the line of the planking.
 
Questions and comments welcomed.
 
Russ
 
 

And a couple more. These are for my friend down under who at one point thought I was either brave or crazy to put sails on this spider web of rigging.
 
 
 
Next comes the topsail for the main. It will be a slow process.

I used the time between building phases to get over to the community woodshop and whack out some lumber for a display case.  As Yambo pointed out, I wanted to get her under cover before any dust, or fingerprints from the grandkids, settles on the rigging.
 
I used Poplar for my display case because it was readily available in the sizes I wanted and gives a nice contrast to the darkness of the Bluenose paint scheme.
 

 

 
 
The case is designed to be assembled around the model once it is secured to the base.  The corner rails are secured to the base with brass wood screws and the top is then fitted to the corner rails and secured with brass wood screws.
 
I looked into purchasing glass for the display case, but found it to be very cost prohibitive.  Regular single strength glass is too fragile and would break very easily and tempered glass is outrageously priced.
 
I discussed the use of various materials with a tech at Lowe’s and finally settled on using 1/8th inch Lexan instead of glass.  At least I know it isn’t going to break and it will be indoors and out of the sun so I’m not too concerned about yellowing or clouding.
 

 
A while back I read a post describing some of the ways various builders put little treasures in their models.  As the discussion progressed it was suggested that the build log for the model be somehow incorporated into the display.  There were several suggestions including CD ROMs and then the use of a USB Flash Drive that could be encased with the model.
 
I purchased a number of 1 Gigabyte USB Flash Drives through Amazon and then set about designing a combination nameplate holder and USB box.  This is my final result.
 

 

 

 
The USB Flash Drive, containing all my photos of the build and the complete build log, will be placed into the box and then the construction will be secured to the Display Case floor with brass screws.
 
Once the model is secured to the base of the display case and the nameplate/USB box is in place I’ll assemble the sides and secure the top.
 
This will finish my build log.  My next post will be in the “Gallery of COMPLETED Kit-Built Ship Models” with the finished display case.
 

I present, for your inspection and critique, my completed rendition of the Canadian Schooner Bluenose.
 
I tied the last knot at 1730 hour MST this evening.
 

 

 
Just to add a bit of authenticity and acquire official approval of the model, I asked my neighbor to come over.  He, being from Canada, inspected the model and gave me a thumbs up.
 

 
From start to finish this has been an adventure.  I am very pleased with the Model Shipways Kit and the quality woods and especially the building manual.  Granted, there are a number of improvements that can be made to any kit, but overall this is a well thought out product.
 
I’ve learned to bend and shape various woods, sew sails, and above all patience!
 
My next step is to complete the display case and mount the Bluenose.
 
To all of you that have followed this build and provided instruction, and inspiration, I thank you.
 

The photos in the Nova Scotia archives of the Bluenose show a number of barrels and a storage box which are not part of the build.  Like some others, this bothered me, so I obtained some keg shaped large barrels and created something.  There are two parts left, first, I the barrels in the photo are scuttled, so I will have to add this.  Second, I'm going to have to decide about paint.
 
I suspect these barrels held salt, but I would really appreciate any input on what else might have been in them.
 

 

 

Hi,
 
this week I continued on the ornaments. I am quite progressing towards the end of the work on them... Ufff... However still there is enough to finish and improve on this sculpting work. Anyway looking forward to having this done!
 
All the best,
Jan

All,
My apologies, I should have posted a follow up to this when I finished. 
I ended up scrubbing everything down with a nylon scrubby pad to bright brass and then washed with backing soda. after that I used some black paint with a brown tint to it, airbrushed it on and called it a day. Not 100% happy with it bit MUCH better than corroded green.
 

 
I am still not positive what went wrong, guessing that I didnt get all the blacken it off or neutralized.
 
Thanks everyone for your help and input.
 
Sam 

Ron & Andrew.
 
I've had lots of practice.
 
Been doing eyes splices for a long time.
 

 
Thats me doing an eye splice aboard the USS Coral Sea 1950.
 
S.os