Craigie65

A bit more progress with the colour scheme added. I used Vallejo paints, sprayed on with my airbrush.
 
I wanted a very dark overall scheme, so the green I plumped for is German Cam. Dark Green. The black is well black. The red is Vallejo’s Mecha Range dark red with a few drops of cavalry brown.
 

Decided to paint the inner bulwark green and now need to decide if the timber heads will be black, green or left in natural wood.  The capping rails will be black so that might make the choice of colour for the timber heads for me.

Second planking on, just a bit of sanding to do to tidy it up a little.  Next stop the paint shop.  Thinking of dark green for above the deck, back hull, wales and capping rail, and dark red for below the waterline.  

Beautiful build Dan.
You should be very proud of her!
 
Like the alternative rigging.  I am guessing Chris simplified it for beginners.  
 
Looking forward to seeing your build of Erycina.

Thanks Andrew!
tidied up the bow a bit more - was not happy with the way a couple of planks on either side where encroaching on the stem.  Used a carver to get them “straight”.   Still think the stern looks a bit unfinished where the planking is outside of the counter.  Hopefully not much will be seen once finished.
 
First coat of dark green is on an just waiting on it drying before next coat.  Will post a few more pics later.

Looking back at my build I see I filled the top not the bottom of stern board. You can still see the gap at the outer edges.

Jonathan,
I think you have it right there.  I played about with the build  sequence to get a decent fit at the stern. As you say how do you know how much to sand by to get a decent fit.  From memory I was seeing how the frame fitted against the counter before fitting the final engraved counter.  I was worried the counter would be too far forward and create a gap or too far back and need a lot of sanding.
 
I had a lot of sanding on the top of stern to get a flat fit to the frame.  Even then I ended up with a gap.

Beautiful build Dan.
You should be very proud of her!
 
Like the alternative rigging.  I am guessing Chris simplified it for beginners.  
 
Looking forward to seeing your build of Erycina.

This article might help?
Making masts

Second planking on, just a bit of sanding to do to tidy it up a little.  Next stop the paint shop.  Thinking of dark green for above the deck, back hull, wales and capping rail, and dark red for below the waterline.  

Beautiful build Dan.
You should be very proud of her!
 
Like the alternative rigging.  I am guessing Chris simplified it for beginners.  
 
Looking forward to seeing your build of Erycina.

Nisha is complete, a month and a day since I started building her. 
She has been a lot of fun to build with plenty of challenges (learning points).
I’m very happy with the unintentional colour the sails ended up. Think I’ll use this colour when I build Erycina too (75% cocoa brown: 25% scarlet).
I found the rigging quite hard despite being relatively simple compared to most of the models on MSW. Still developing my techniques and need to be less reliant on CA glue. 
I stick to my previous conclusion that Nisha for someone who is a complete beginner, such as me, is tricky as a first build but makes an ideal second build. Compared to Vanguard’s Fifie she is smaller, fiddlier, harder to plank, I broke lots more pieces during construction and the rigging is considerably more demanding. All challenges I welcomed on a second build but could have put me off during a first build. The Fifie was the ideal first build for me. 

I’ve changed the way the lines are secured from that shown on the plans. There are 7 lines coming down the mast plus the inner jibsheet which need securing. The inner jibsheet goes through the ring on a runner but the plans suggest it is just tied to the ring. I think that’s unlikely as it leaves no scope for the crew to trim the sails so I’ve tied off the jibsheet to the windward rails below the deadeyes. 
 
4 cleats on the masts are also likely too few to secure the other 7 lines so I have taken several other lines through the loops at the mast foot and then tied them off to the railing below the deadeyes on both sides.

 
Nisha is built on the starboard tack (as all of Chris's fishing boats seem to be). So I think that the leeward / port flying jibsheet should be taught and the windward / starboard flying jibsheet should be loose.
 
I’m not sure that these changes are accurate and I couldn’t find clear enough photos in March’s Sailing Trawlers to confirm but based on having a bit of sailing experience it makes more sense to me.
 
Fifie welcomes Nisha to the fishing fleet!
Off fishing. 
Thanks to Chris for creating another superb kit that has enabled a beginner such as me to build a second stunning boat, I have no doubt that if I’d bought a mass market kit I’d never have finished even the first build and certainly not have ended up with two fine looking fishing boats. Also thanks to Andyrew, Andrew Johnson, James H, Craigie and others for their valuable advice and excellent build logs which have been a huge help during the build.
 
Next addition to the fishing fleet will be the Zulu.

Dan

Hey Glomar,
Look at plan 3 to give you an idea of where the waterline is. The boot topping is the waterline. One word of warning, the plans are about 15% smaller than 1:1.
 
 Also the manual has pictures of how to use a waterline marker and the painting sequence.  It has all been well thought out by Chris W and well documented by James H.

Looking back at my build I see I filled the top not the bottom of stern board. You can still see the gap at the outer edges.

Another update.
 
Not too much to show this time, but there was a lot of work in terms of sanding and waiting for soaked parts to dry before gluing etc.
Before I could proceed, I needed to sand the inner bulwarks. This isn't too bad of a job...just time consuming. Despite my pic, you're best rolling the hull onto its side on a towel, and applying pressure downwards when sanding. This is done until everything is nice and even.
 

 
 
 
 
Each 1mm interior bulwark is split into four easy to manage sections. To lessen any load on the frames, so as not to cause any spread in them, all inner bulwark parts were soaked for 30 mins before clamping into place until dry. These were left 24hrs so they were entirely back to their normal size. Pear swells a lot in water, so it's vital you know, beyond doubt, that there's no swelling left. Once dry, all parts were carefully aligned to the port frames, glued into place, and clamped until set.




 
 
 
 
Provision now needs to be made for the eventual deck beam positioning. This is done using some 2mm MDF frames which slot into the bulkhead beams, above the inner bulwarks. There are two per side. These fit with a nice, reassuring push, but at this stage I don't glue them.




 
 
 
A good number of the 6mm pear deck beams and 5mm boat beams are now sotted/hooked over the MDF parts I just installed. This is done to check that the position of those MDF parts are absolutely in the right place. These beams are NOT glued in yet, obviously. At this point I've also reinstated the MDF temporary beams across the quarterdeck bulkheads. Again that's just to make sure every dimension is exactly as designed.




 
 
 
 
Once happy with everything, the MDF deck beam mounts are brush glued into place.

 
 
 
 
Lastly, the pear beams are removed and carefully put away somewhere safe. The temporary MDF beams remain in place to help me with the hull fairing, and that's the next job.

 
 
That's all for now.

Looking back at my build I see I filled the top not the bottom of stern board. You can still see the gap at the outer edges.

Thanks y'all for the likes and comments! Helps me keep going. Like, say, during construction of the infernal Companionway. I can imagine the conversation now:
James (working on the prototype): "Hey Chris, these hinges are so large that they're actually easy to put together."
Chris: "I can fix that! Bwahaha!"
 
Dan (DB789): Thanks! And if you just take photos of the stern from a high enough angle, nobody would suspect a thing!
 
Craig (Craigie65): It's almost as if you have to start with the fitting of the gunwale and stern gunwale, then work back from there until you reach Step 45. That way you'd know how much to sand off the stern frames before proceeding. I think I read somewhere that Malcolm Darch doesn't like to glue anything until all the relevant parts fit together like the proverbial glove.
 
Finally, a shout out to James H. and Chris Watton for numbering the steps in the documentation. It makes trading information a whole lot easier on the forums.
 
Jonathan

Looking back at my build I see I filled the top not the bottom of stern board. You can still see the gap at the outer edges.

Looking back at my build I see I filled the top not the bottom of stern board. You can still see the gap at the outer edges.

Looking back at my build I see I filled the top not the bottom of stern board. You can still see the gap at the outer edges.

I would say above reasonable.  Looks very good indeed.

Thank you guys for your kind comments
Second planked hull. First ended looking like fish gills. I must say I am so impressed with the quality and ease of building Chris Watton has achieved. Aided by the huge amount of information and tutorials on this site. I think I have achieved a reasonable standard.
I agree, the sailing trawlers were known for their turn of speed.
 
Kev

Thanks Andrew!
tidied up the bow a bit more - was not happy with the way a couple of planks on either side where encroaching on the stem.  Used a carver to get them “straight”.   Still think the stern looks a bit unfinished where the planking is outside of the counter.  Hopefully not much will be seen once finished.
 
First coat of dark green is on an just waiting on it drying before next coat.  Will post a few more pics later.

Wow that is progress.  Second planking looks good to me.
 
I had that same problem on the counter. As it is painted I just used filler to blend it in.  
 
Have you picked a colour scheme for her?

Second planking on, just a bit of sanding to do to tidy it up a little.  Next stop the paint shop.  Thinking of dark green for above the deck, back hull, wales and capping rail, and dark red for below the waterline.  

Would love to say I am too young to remember this…………….