Craigie65

Well, relatively, yes, very rough. It has been built just to check parts - planking took almost a week, but I needed to plank it full to check all designed parts.
 
One thing, as I mentioned, there will be quite a few changes for the production prototype that Jim will have. Nothing major, more refinements. For example, the waist rail will be in two layers of strip, not one as shown, and as already mentioned, the poop skylight.
 
All hull detail above upper deck level is pre cut.  The poop barricade is my idea, and I have integrated belaying racks either side, in lieu of the missing mizzen bitts. The flag lockers at the stern will be populated with PE parts (square compartments).
 
For the quarter gallery tile effect, I have opted for laser cut black card. I think they are much easier to apply than PE parts, using PVA wood glue, and look better too.
 
I was not 100% sure about the poop step gangways, should I keep them, or have the steps directly attached to the poop? problem is, if I do that, the steps are very close to a 42 pounder, so kept with the platforms.
 
As Indefatigable was stationed in home waters at the beginning of her career, I do wonder if she would have had all of the latest 'innovations' early on, like quarter davits. Bet she did...
 
Anyway, still a lot to do. I will send Jim the production parts in the next couple of weeks, once I have nailed the bow area.

yeah - Illustrates the world of difference between Post Ship and a Super Frigate! (Indy being around 15 feet longer along the gun deck than standard 38's of her day)
 
Am sure it has been mentioned elsewhere, but I will be included some of BenD's excellent rope in the Indy kit, most notably the anchor hawse and the larger diameter mast stays.
 
 
Also forgot to mention, the stern name and depth markings are waterslide decals this time. Name being yellow ochre and depth markings are in white - there will be two sets for each kit (and already have them here with me), as I know mistakes can happen when applying.

I have never designed a model ship kit without mast and rig. Indy is no exception - I did mention just a couple of posts up that mast stays will have BenD's rope.

OK, little update.
 
Designs for Indefatigable are now about 85% complete. The pictures shown are of the pre-prototype, so looks very rough as usual, as many parts have been glued, ripped off and new parts added in place - and is built for part checking only (just like Sphinx). There are still a few mistakes on this prototype model, so does not entirely reflect the final designs.
 
I have also included a drawing I did of the basic outline of what I think Indy would have looked like during most of her career. The only concession I have made is keeping the forecastle timberheads, rather than berthing up this area, with the decision based purely on aesthetics (plus the plans show this anyway.
 
What I did change is the quarter bulwarks. I know she had 7 gun ports per side and three (with spare chase port) at the bow, so the 7th port had to be worked in, and this meant altering the bulwarks to the same height. I have placed the additional 12 pounder long chase guns right at the front, as I could not see Pellew being chased, more the chaser...
 
I have tried to keep the poop profile as low as I can. Pellew didn't even want the poop at all, and would have been happy to have his cabin on the main gun deck and Indy fitted with sloop like quarter badges (would have looked odd..). With this in mind, I have kept the poop profile to a minimum, as I am sure Pellew would not have requested anything that would have increased windage. I will add 'iron stanchions' to this area, and that's it.
 
I have the bow area to design, which will be the last of the main areas, and then I need to do all the photo etched parts. (Oh, and of course, a figurehead and stern decoration - which will be minimal). For the first time, I decided to go with laser cut and engraved columns for in between all lights/windows, and I am very happy with how they turned out. Channels are made by laminating three patterns together, a wider and thicker centre and not so wide and thinner top and bottom.
 
You will be able to build this without the open slots in the decks if you so wish, they are not mandatory. The stand is 4mm acetate and a 2mm duel colour engraved nameplate.
 
ETA - Forgot to mention, I have moved the poop skylight back by 3 beams, as I realised it was too close the edge of the poop, so it is now over the great cabin, and not in the position shown.

Forgot to add my initial side profile I did before I started designs..
 
The production model will be shown with coppered bottom, and fully painted sides in black and yellow ochre
 
(The figurehead is from Vanguard, and used as a placeholder until I get her own made)
 

If part 58 does not fit, then as painful as it maybe, then yes I would. Otherwise I think your second planking will be a bit of a struggle.   You will not be the first to strip off bulwarks.  I have often removed offending planks. 
 
For my build of Erycina, I drew in the position of the equivalent of part 58. I used this as a guide to make sure my first planking did not encroach. You can see the pencil line.

The winch is now built. The drum part is 3D print and first primed then painted in Tamiya flat green. Just remember to put the engraved faces of the winch sides on the outside of the assembly. Some PE is used here for gearing etc.
 



 
 
That nice little companionway is now fitted, as it the smoke stack. Provision is also made for pinning the channels. Those are now added too.

 

 
 
A smattering of PE is added, such as eyelets and belaying pins.

 
 
The bowsprit entry hole is filed to allow the down to pass through the bulwark and neatly into the bowsprit support.


 
 
Some decorative PE work is added. There is some stern work but I won't reveal that until the model is complete  

 
 
A good friend painted this little cutter for me in oils. This will be included in the kit, so I thought I'd lash this down to the deck to complete the ensemble. 




 
 
More next time...

Really neat work Andrew, the lengths some people go to to avoid rigging 😉.

Time to start the second planking.
Decided to fit the first plank without any tapering as it covers the lower part of the inner bulwark.  Not sure what’s going on here but the plank came up a bit short.  I will have to  add a small triangular plank.  I do not think that will be an issue as the wale covers this piece. Same on both sides - I offered up an uncut plank and they are too short, but only for this one plank.

I then used a bit of tape to line off the first band of the hull to be four planks wide amidship.

I then took the measurement at each frame and worked out the taper.  Not too much of a taper at the bow or stern. 

So on to the counter and outer bulwarks.
I deviated slightly from the build sequence and attached the keel, stem and stern outer pieces first.  In particular the the stern piece as I found it fiddlier on my Nisha where I fitted the counter first and then the outer stern piece.
 
At this point Erycina is going through her punk phase.

I decided to presoak the outer counter - it makes glueing easier.

Finally I added the outer bulwarks - the hole on the front port outer bulwark does not seem to align very well with the inner.  Looks as if I will need to drill this later. The starboard side has the bowsprit hole again a bit out of alignment but a bit of filing will sort that. No big deal really, just thought worth mentioning in case you come across this. 

Productive Easter weekend. First planking on, needs a bit of sanding, but reasonably happy with this.
I did crowd the planks at the counter.  For my next model I will split the hull into bands to give me a better idea of the run of the planks.

Time for the first plank. However when I offered up the plank it was below the level of the counter.  A shim was added to fix.  A bit of plank bending and the first one is on

A little progress. Counter now glued and drying. Next step planking!

With the frames all faired and checked it is time to add the inner bulwarks. These parts do no seem to go fully into the slot as I first envisaged. Looking closely at the build manual and at other logs it seems as if the forward edge of the bulwarks barely rests inside the slot.
 
I decided to soak the forward bulwarks to put less strain on the stem as the top of the stem cracked just above the slot whilst dry fitting the bulwarks.  I will wait a few hours before glueing and pinning given the amount of swelling pear seems to have.  
 
Also took the opportunity to clamp the pre soaked counter to get the shape.
 
PS forgive the desk - it has been my office and shipyard throughout the pandemic.

After about an hour or so the basic hull shape and false deck was done. No dramas getting to this point. The stern frames are delicate and I was a more careful than I was with Nisha to make sure I did not snap off the outer frames.  There is still a bit of fairing to do, but the sun is out and that will have to wait until tomorrow.

Time to start the second planking.
Decided to fit the first plank without any tapering as it covers the lower part of the inner bulwark.  Not sure what’s going on here but the plank came up a bit short.  I will have to  add a small triangular plank.  I do not think that will be an issue as the wale covers this piece. Same on both sides - I offered up an uncut plank and they are too short, but only for this one plank.

I then used a bit of tape to line off the first band of the hull to be four planks wide amidship.

I then took the measurement at each frame and worked out the taper.  Not too much of a taper at the bow or stern. 

Andrew,
Apart from being obviously longer, the stern goes a bit flatter before hitting the stern post. You can see I have not planked right to the end. Otherwise I think the second planking will be roughly the same as Nisha.

Time to start the second planking.
Decided to fit the first plank without any tapering as it covers the lower part of the inner bulwark.  Not sure what’s going on here but the plank came up a bit short.  I will have to  add a small triangular plank.  I do not think that will be an issue as the wale covers this piece. Same on both sides - I offered up an uncut plank and they are too short, but only for this one plank.

I then used a bit of tape to line off the first band of the hull to be four planks wide amidship.

I then took the measurement at each frame and worked out the taper.  Not too much of a taper at the bow or stern. 

The hull shape looks quite similar to Nisha, as you have built both, do you think it will be the same second planking wise?

Time to start the second planking.
Decided to fit the first plank without any tapering as it covers the lower part of the inner bulwark.  Not sure what’s going on here but the plank came up a bit short.  I will have to  add a small triangular plank.  I do not think that will be an issue as the wale covers this piece. Same on both sides - I offered up an uncut plank and they are too short, but only for this one plank.

I then used a bit of tape to line off the first band of the hull to be four planks wide amidship.

I then took the measurement at each frame and worked out the taper.  Not too much of a taper at the bow or stern. 

Time to start the second planking.
Decided to fit the first plank without any tapering as it covers the lower part of the inner bulwark.  Not sure what’s going on here but the plank came up a bit short.  I will have to  add a small triangular plank.  I do not think that will be an issue as the wale covers this piece. Same on both sides - I offered up an uncut plank and they are too short, but only for this one plank.

I then used a bit of tape to line off the first band of the hull to be four planks wide amidship.

I then took the measurement at each frame and worked out the taper.  Not too much of a taper at the bow or stern. 

@starlight Here is my build of Erycina. The garboard plank sits well and the additional pieces form a nice rabbet for the second planking.  All down to the great design from Chris Watton.

My rigging avoidance tactics are coming on a treat and the trawl beam and heads are now assembled and I have attached a ground rope, complete with chain "ticklers" and bridles; including the smaller Dandy bridle used to help bring the aft trawl head alongside.
 
I have tried out the position of the trawl beam/head assembly on the model to see how it would be stowed.  According to Edgar Marsh the forward trawl head was lashed securely in between the middle and aft shrouds and the aft end chained at the stern where aft head overhung the taffrail, to avoid the whole rig falling inboard in rough weather, which from the size/weight of it would have been a serious problem! 
 
Next up I'm trying out some netting for the actual trawl, I hadn't realised for some reason just how big this was going to be! 😲  The trawl beams according to Marsh were anywhere from 20 to 50 ft long; depending on the individual trawler.  "Nisha" was 'middling' size wise, so using the distance from shrouds to just past the stern gave me a scale 38 ft beam, which seems okay.  Again according to Marsh the actual nett was twice the beam length, so at 1/64 scale it will be just over 1ft / 300mm long!  I think therefore I am going to display it rolled up under the beam!  😆
 
Thanks for the likes and comments.  😁

Glomar,
Looking much better.
You should be able to lever the nails out.  Take care doing that.
Can you test whether part 58 will fit correctly on the stem?  I cannot quite see from the final photo but plank number 2 looks to be touching the front of the stem. You might get away with carving it back to fit 58.