
JohnLea
NRG Member-
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Everything posted by JohnLea
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I have been trying to fiddle with my notifications and now I don't seem to get any. I am trying to get the red ball to appear beside the globe with no emails.
In addition, the piracy thread is no longer visible to me. I went to the drop down lists of notification and clicked on an old notification from the piracy thread and was told that I did not have access. I can not see the thrad in its usual place either. Has it been removed?
Can you point me in the right direction?
Thanks
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My father lived in northern Ontario and had his canoes re-canvased by local Indians (Cree?). I believe that they used the right side up approach while wetting the canvas and putting quite a weight of rocks in the canoe. And maybe re wetting.
- 69 replies
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- canoe
- restoration
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(and 1 more)
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Fair-a-frame
JohnLea replied to Don Quixote's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Have a look at Retired Guy's approach the to Fair a Frame at the begining of his Bluenose log. -
Although true, wrote the above post as a bit of a joke. After, I started wondering how I knew that. I am not very intuitive. I don't see it on the Byrnes product page for drawplates. but it may have come with instructions.
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I wrote "wood only" on mine when I got it. (Sharpie.)
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Would it be useful to make molded edges? I agree that it would not be hard to make.
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Poly over acrylic paint????
JohnLea replied to CPDDET's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Not a paint system (at least I don't think so.) but a friend who was a brilliant figure painter painted a 12" Catwoman. He was in the habit of putting on coats of Future floor wax as the final finish if a high shine was wanted. It didn't work. Her uniform developed a crackle finish rather than the shiny patent leather look. He thought it had something to do with the dryness of the underpaint but he was never sure. I avoided anything more adventurous than oils over acrylics since then. -
Resin not curing?
JohnLea replied to FoxtrotHotel's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Try heating it with a hair dryer or heat gun. I have had some success with polyurethane resin and whatever type is used in the fiberglass kits. -
Painting Figures
JohnLea replied to JohnLea's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
PDF from Andrea. https://www.andreaeurope.com/descargas/AP 030I TEXTS ENG.pdf -
Painting Figures
JohnLea replied to JohnLea's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
A little more in this area including staging and lighting. http://www.boxdioramas.com/sheperd-paine -
Painting Figures
JohnLea replied to JohnLea's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Have a look through this pair's site. There used to be some "how to's" but their work is top drawer and worth the time. http://www.mb-miniatures.com/pages/en/home.php -
Stevenson's ER32 Collet Blocks
JohnLea replied to KeithAug's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I appreciate the information.. I have had the lathe and other tools for years and have never used them. Now that I am slowing down I am turning to ship models and in that, looking at the tools again. A rabbit warren of distractions. -
Stevenson's ER32 Collet Blocks
JohnLea replied to KeithAug's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Thanks! I will investigate my options some more. -
Stevenson's ER32 Collet Blocks
JohnLea replied to KeithAug's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I was excited to find this thread figuring that these items would be very useful. Then I did an uncharacteristic thing. I measured the chuck jaws opened to what I am setting as the maximum and these blocks are too big. Do these gizmos come in a smaller form? -
What brand of #11 blades do you use
JohnLea replied to bigcreekdad's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Agreed on the Bard Parker but I found the spine a problem in some cases when cutting mould rubber. -
What brand of #11 blades do you use
JohnLea replied to bigcreekdad's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Thanks. I used to lay it on egg crate foam. That kept it from stabbing my thigh or foot when it rolled off the desk. -
What brand of #11 blades do you use
JohnLea replied to bigcreekdad's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I used scalpels for years to cut moulds and had a variety of handles. I found the best fit of the snap on handles was in using the Swan Morton blue handle. I also used a "screw on" handle but can't remember the name. It held the blade the best but was round and tended to roll on the table. If I can find it I will take a picture. -
Shop Made Dremel Drill Press- Not my idea
JohnLea replied to Mike40's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Thanks. I will give it a try. -
Shop Made Dremel Drill Press- Not my idea
JohnLea replied to Mike40's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Thanks. I missed the screws completely. So basically the dremel fits in a hole that is clamped via screw pressure. I assume that squareness checks are required at each use or at least after removal and replacement. -
Shop Made Dremel Drill Press- Not my idea
JohnLea replied to Mike40's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I am missing something. What is holding the dremel in position and keeping it square? -
Shop Made Dremel Drill Press- Not my idea
JohnLea replied to Mike40's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I confuse easily but I think the drill press is shown in Post 9 in the first link posted by mtaylor.
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