Jump to content

JohnLea

NRG Member
  • Posts

    135
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by JohnLea

  1. Bill Ottinger has a very informative book on this ~ "Napoleonic Plastic Figure Modelling".
  2. I have been trying to fiddle with my notifications and now I don't seem to get any. I am trying to get the red ball to appear beside the globe with no emails. 

     

    In addition, the piracy thread is no longer visible to me.  I went to the drop down lists of notification and clicked on an old notification from the piracy thread and was told that I did not have access.  I can not see the thrad in its usual place either.  Has it been removed?

     

    Can you point me in the right direction?

     

    Thanks

  3. My father lived in northern Ontario and had his canoes re-canvased by local Indians (Cree?). I believe that they used the right side up approach while wetting the canvas and putting quite a weight of rocks in the canoe. And maybe re wetting.
  4. Have a look at Retired Guy's approach the to Fair a Frame at the begining of his Bluenose log.
  5. Although true, wrote the above post as a bit of a joke. After, I started wondering how I knew that. I am not very intuitive. I don't see it on the Byrnes product page for drawplates. but it may have come with instructions.
  6. I wrote "wood only" on mine when I got it. (Sharpie.)
  7. Would it be useful to make molded edges? I agree that it would not be hard to make.
  8. Not a paint system (at least I don't think so.) but a friend who was a brilliant figure painter painted a 12" Catwoman. He was in the habit of putting on coats of Future floor wax as the final finish if a high shine was wanted. It didn't work. Her uniform developed a crackle finish rather than the shiny patent leather look. He thought it had something to do with the dryness of the underpaint but he was never sure. I avoided anything more adventurous than oils over acrylics since then.
  9. Try heating it with a hair dryer or heat gun. I have had some success with polyurethane resin and whatever type is used in the fiberglass kits.
  10. If this link has been posted, I missed it. https://www.southernmuseum.org/ I have no idea how accurately the restore was done.
  11. PDF from Andrea. https://www.andreaeurope.com/descargas/AP 030I TEXTS ENG.pdf
  12. A little more in this area including staging and lighting. http://www.boxdioramas.com/sheperd-paine
  13. Have a look through this pair's site. There used to be some "how to's" but their work is top drawer and worth the time. http://www.mb-miniatures.com/pages/en/home.php
  14. It has been a while since I have painted a figure and know there are a number of specialty forums out there but these are the only ones I can recall. Worth browsing through them if the subject interests you. https://www.planetfigure.com/ http://www.timelinesforum.com/
  15. I appreciate the information.. I have had the lathe and other tools for years and have never used them. Now that I am slowing down I am turning to ship models and in that, looking at the tools again. A rabbit warren of distractions.
  16. I was excited to find this thread figuring that these items would be very useful. Then I did an uncharacteristic thing. I measured the chuck jaws opened to what I am setting as the maximum and these blocks are too big. Do these gizmos come in a smaller form?
  17. Agreed on the Bard Parker but I found the spine a problem in some cases when cutting mould rubber.
  18. Thanks. I used to lay it on egg crate foam. That kept it from stabbing my thigh or foot when it rolled off the desk.
  19. I used scalpels for years to cut moulds and had a variety of handles. I found the best fit of the snap on handles was in using the Swan Morton blue handle. I also used a "screw on" handle but can't remember the name. It held the blade the best but was round and tended to roll on the table. If I can find it I will take a picture.
  20. Probably not he best or most detailed but I enjoyed David Howarth's "Trafalgar-The Nelson Touch". I think I will try to find it for a re-read.
  21. Thanks. I missed the screws completely. So basically the dremel fits in a hole that is clamped via screw pressure. I assume that squareness checks are required at each use or at least after removal and replacement.
  22. I am missing something. What is holding the dremel in position and keeping it square?
  23. I confuse easily but I think the drill press is shown in Post 9 in the first link posted by mtaylor.
×
×
  • Create New...