Altduck

The best advise I received from this website was to: "treat each plank as if it is its own model". That means studying then shaping  each plank carefully  before trying to glue it. Shaping the plank means getting the length correct, tapering it to fit top and bottom and beveling the edges to give a tight fit. Figure out how you are going to hold each plank, one at a time, until the glue dries. Don't forget you can plank from the deck down and from the keel up. It will definitely try your patience.  

How about pressing the punch instead of whacking it?
 
The force required to shear small holes in soft materials can't be much.
 
One way might be to put a piece of bar stock in your drill press and use it like an arbor press.
 
Richard

Chris,,, I just love what you're doing with this build..... a fantastic job!!!... your ageing techniques  are outstanding... I really like those inks you used, might give them a try myself on my next build... Will be following  along on your progress... Thanks for sharing!!
Frank

The ropes look nice and natural.... good job Bug...
 
Frank

Here's a better picture of the styrofoam glue.
 

Good morning,
 
      Not a lot of photos to show just yet, but I've delved into the tedious job of coiling and tying off rope.  I started out by building a jig, and going with that particular method - but it's only useful in a couple of places where the coils are essentially sitting on their own, or hanging off a cleat or rail.  
 
 
 
     For most of the rope, that's attached to the end of a rigging line, I'm actually coiling by hand for each spot, so that it wraps around the end of the rigging properly and looks more natural.
 

 
    I am primarily using two types of glue. The Scenic glue that I mentioned before dries very clear and clean. As I said - it's NOT very tacky, so the coils need to be in place and how you want them laid out, then the glue is applied with a Q-tip, or sometimes small brush.  The glue behind it - sorry it's kinda blurry - is actually a styrofoam glue that I came across at my local hobby store.  It's VERY tacky - much like a rubber cement - so it's a bit messy, and quite honestly a pain in the butt.  HOWEVER, it's also very effective if you brush it on the back of a coil because it allows you to immediately shape the coil and place it where you want it. It holds very nicely, but then takes several minutes to dry giving you plenty of flexibility to make changes.
 

 
    Once again, I'm growing more enamored with the somewhat haphazard way the rope coils are looking.

While finishing first planking, I have decided to break a routine and play a little bit with oils, waxes,... for final finish.
 
On the first picture all used materials could be seen and on second samples on wood. For all finishes 2 coats were used, always rubbed with 0000 steel wool between coats and also on final coat.
 
I tried my best to represent actual colors on picture, but nevertheless all efforts (shoot in RAW, additional flash lightning, manipulation in LightRoom) colors in real looks little different - better. 
 
Final decision will wait a little bit, because I am also trying different methods for aging. Currently I am leaning towards nr. 1. 
 
A little note to "odd" look of nr. 1. and 5. On corners bitumen mix was used for aging and I made mistake rubbing it with steel wool.

Ian, welcome aboard   .   @Nirvana. I am slowly preparing my workshop for future fully scratch build project (or more of them). Proxxon tools are great tools for their value. Also I modified almost every one of them and get better and more precise tool. Only sponsor is my wife who allowed me all these toys   .   Today I made better, more realistic, picture of final finish, using different light source, camera settings and post-production.   On sample 1. Hard wax is used to simulate caulking. Nigel described this technique here.  

Hello Simon, thanks for sharing this.. I like the No 6 but it's only my opinion!!
 
Regards
Dimitris

First planking is finished and sanded. No wood filler was needed.
 
For correct location of gunports and "oarports" I refer to plans and not kit templates. After numerous times of measure - mark - check, correct (I hope ) locations were marked. After additional checking all gunports are within 0,5mm. 
 
Note: After comparing actual locations transferred from plans and kit templates there are quite a difference. From my opinion templates are not correct.

Another shot with the completed rigging. 
 

The bowlines were made from 32 gauge brass wire, built up separately, and carefully installed in place.
 

 
Finally, the sheets and mainsail tacks were added. This completed the bulk of the running rigging. As you can tell, by this point, my other camera was back up and running as well. 
 

The mizzen tackle proved to be a challenge. Here, I failed, once more, to heed my own advice; work inside to outside, bottom to top. Failing to do that, I found myself having to work around rigging. It was tedious.
 

 
It was completed, but took far longer than expected. As a result of my poor planning, I decided that some additional rigging details were going to be omitted altogether, though I don't think their absence has made too much of an impact.
 

Here is a shot of the mizzen sail and some of its rigging to give one an idea of how small this model really is. 
 

Hello Mark thanks for looking in and commenting.
I'm like a kid in a toy shop i can't wait to see what something looks like when I do it.
So the poly goes on, its only one coat and can be sanded back when i need to glue something.
 
"Hmm.. since this is first planking, see how it goes and apply what you find to second layer."
 
Yes that's the idea, try things and see how it turns out.
One thing that i have been pondering is, the stern planking on the replica.
 
It appears to me that there are no steelers used and I have been wondering how they got past
bulkheads 13 and 14, where the planks would need tapering and steelers adding.
 

 
I now think they did it by dropping planks under the wales, as at the bow.
And that allowed for an even run of planks to run through to the stern.
As in this photo    https://www.flickr.com/photos/endeavourvoyages/9020703145/in/album-72157634081735926/
 
I suppose if I asked the question someone would have told me, but I enjoy nutting it out. Hopefully it
will make me remember more, how to do planking.
 
Anyway this effort on the first planking has been well and truly worth it. When it come to the 2nd planks
hopefully I will have it worked out.
Thanks to others as well for likes and comments.
Cheers Chris
 
 

Hi Chris,
I believe you're on the right track.
 
My first planking layer, I dropped planks as in the picture below.

 
I had never planked a model when I did my first layer, so as you have, tried it out for practice for the 2nd layer.
Some of the 1st layer I just tapered, but it did provide what I was in for with the 2nd layer.
So the second layer I ended up with dropped and steelers, as the shape chnages to the stern.
 
I rebated the planks into the keel, so it(keel) remained at 5mm - I think it is.
 
Keep the good work up Chris, coming along nice.
 
 
Dave R

Chris,
 
One suggestion.... don't get enthusiastic about putting poly on everything just yet.  If (or maybe it's actually "when") you have glue a part to what has been polyed, the glue won't stick.   Many of us have found this out the hard way. 
 
You doing good on the planking.  Don't rush it, run some battens and work the planking in small areas.  It's a pain, but worth it when the planking is done.
 
I'm thinking you ran the garboard too far forward.  It looks like your planks at the bow are running  up.  But then as I recall, they do on the replica also.   Hmm.. since this is first planking, see how it goes and apply what you find to second layer. 

Good afternoon all
Time for a bit of an update myself.
I have been plodding along with planking above the wales, which still needs to be sanded properly
And  doing the 1st planks below, which i am trying to do in a proper manner in order
to get a good idea of what will happen with the 2nd planks.





 
Yes i know that I am a messy planker,
perhaps time will help with that.
Cheers Chris

Hey guys
 
I was away from the hobby for a while. Since I've made a big push on finishing the hull
Here's a brief summary: 
 
Finished the lanterns on the stern Started adding the last deck furnishings for the rigging, gratings etc Started adding all the canon carriages Started adding the gunport hatches Small repairs here and there One thing I found particularly useful was adding a small nail into the back of the gunport hatches. This makes them easy to pick up and turn during painting. But the main reason was to add strength of fitting them onto the ship and ease of placement. I drilled tiny holes just above the gunports. Then put some glue on the hatch and stick the pin in. You don't have to hold them in place while drying. And they don't snap off so easily as just glueing them. I love it.
 
Here's some pics of my progress.
 

 

 

 

Ships’ boats and davits
Ships was equipped with boats intended for use for personnel and food and water supplies transport in harbours as also for landing on shore or for towing the ships.
An important function of the boats was life saving of passengers and sailors.
On the war ships the boats was used for communication between ships as also for actions against enemy.
On the beginning the ships was carrying one boat but over time their number grew.
Big ships was equipped with several boats with different size and destination.
Boats was specialized for various functions the biggest named long boats  was used for anchors  handling as also was armed with light cannons.
Boats was equipped with oars as also mast and sails
The gig it was long narrow boat used for personnel transport  the Captain.
The ships  carried boats on the deck or on davits.
For example HMS Warrior 1860 was equipped with:

 


Boat from Vasa

Boat in Historic Dockyard museum in Portsmouth UK

Boat construction in Historic Dockyard museum in Portsmouth UK

Boats under construction in Delft Shipyard  at Amsterdam

Boats on the deck of HMS Victory

Boat on davits on Jylland

Boat on the deck of Gotheborg

Davits and boat on Passat

Contemporary boats on old davits on Dar Pomorza

Boats and davits on ship's side

Boats and davits on ship's stern
 
Tadeusz

The  Course Yard Lifts do NOT go through the shrouds, they pass across the front of the Topmast Shrouds. It looks counterintuitive  though and MANY ship modelers lead them on the most direct path, which takes them THROUGH the Topmast Shrouds. Many two dimensional ship model diagrams appear to show them led this way. This is wrong. But you can find examples of this incorrect lead in even the best ship model collections in Museums. Its a very common misunderstanding.
As you point out, when the yards are braced the lifts would foul the shrouds were they led between them. Also when the yard tackle is employed the lifts take on more significance as they come under more strain hoisting in and out boats and cannon ect.
Also the crew needs to climb the Topmast Shrouds unimpeded. And the Course Yard itself needs to be adjusted fore and aft via the Truss and thus the lifts can not be constrained as they would be if run through the shrouds.
But even the correct lead is not without its problems as the leward Lift will always chafe against a shroud.
I have seen people work around this chaffing by rigging the lift blocks at the masthead on pennants which are long enough to get the running part of the tackle outboard of the shroud. But this causes problems with the lead of the fall of the tackle. Another solution I often see used it to put the Lift Span forward of the Topmast on the Lower Mast Cap, which makes a great deal of sense but which I don't see a lot of documentation on.

Nice to see this question and answer, shows some thinking about how it works, ( cause and effect ), going on.
jud

In my opinion you should keep it since it is a discontinued kit and that makes it valuable... If this would be your first kit maybe you should start with other for beginners and thus learn the basics.
Then you could start with this and do a better job because you do have the necessary knowledge.
 
I repeat that it is my opinion and at the end you are the captain of your ship, so if you think necessary to start with this and no other, here you will find all the support and tips of people with extensive experience.

Thank you for the honest answer

Feed rates with small cutters do not directly correlate with bigger cutters. They are not as strong. A 3MM cutter with 4 flutes may only run at .001-.002 per flute while a larger cutter may run at .005-,010 per flute. In wood you also have to worry about the flutes packing with chips or dust at higher feed rates. Use all of the RPM's you are comfortable with but be very careful when it comes to feed rates. Also, harder woods and woods with a lot of resin will not cut as nicely. Trying things and seeing with your own eyes what works is the best way to run. If you are cutting metal, the above is even more important. Download a speed and feed app for your phone or computer and pay very close attention to the surface speed each material type is able to run at and start slow and work your way up. Keep in mind this is not production. You want a successful part not broken cutters or parts.
 
Paul