samueljr

David, thanks for looking in. These boats (all of them really) took on what would seem to endless configurations and modifications through their lifetimes that the possibilities are just as endless. From the start I wanted to produce something that was different (but accurate) from the "box top" photo.  It was fun trying a few different techniques and some new products I was itching to try.
 
Even being done for sometime I still read through the ongoing build logs and marvel at how wonderful everyone's models are and what a great kit this was. 
 
Sam

No, you really didn't........................

Some extremely quick update pics
 
I'll post better and with description(s) next week
 
Happy New Year everyone! 
 
Sam

Progress (I think?)
 
The ensign staff on the bowsprit is per Lavery. The darn cap is off center a bit. Sorry about that I'll have to reset it for the hundreth time! It's so samll!!
 
 

I seem to be attracting projects that I'm not interested in as of late (BOUNTY bashing) so here I go again................
 
After purchasing the LONG BOAT (LB) as a present for a freind I found it returned to me for lack of interest and skill on their part.
 
For some unknown reason I've decided to build it myself but thought I'd have a little bit of fun with it.
 
After confering with Chuck I proceeded forward.
 
I will be not following the finish schedule provided as the kit is based on an existing (generic) model of a class of boat(s). I read through Lavery, May and Steel and will be painting the hull differently and will be rigging the boat with a Cutter rig as per Lavery and Steel. I will be adding furled sails and possibly a few more detail elements. I want the boat to look like it works and is not a ceremonial craft. 
 
I am using Admiralty paint Read Ochre for the details. I took Chuck's friezes and having the same drawing program I switched the blue background to red. I've omitted the stern frieze all together. 
 
The white bottom is about 8 coats of Floquil grime paint.
 
I've also gone for a more natural wood look. The stock was sealed with a coat of wipe-on poly and then given a coat of cut 50/50 MiniWax Natural and Golden Oak stain. When dry this was sanded off leaving a patina of sorts to the stock. The nail heads are simply done with a sharp #2 pencil.
 
I "cheated" with the railings and just took a photo copy of the plans and glud them onto the 1/32" sheet and cut the rails that way.
 
Next up is the inboard details. I'll post more pics ASAP.
 
As I've told Chuck, I've glued my fingers together twice (already) burnt another on a plank bender and broken the stem off.
 
It's a delightful little project (diversion) from my other projects.............LOL
 
Sam

Hi Bob,
 
I hope they (Expo) will as well.
 
The "thing" is moving on in time.
 
I know that Chuck experienced some production issues (not to ESSEX's point) with his kits that were cleaned up but now as time moves on there are some other quality control / production concerns that have nothing to do with the design creeping back in.
 
That's what's most frustrating. What I designed and was produced is assembled as the proto-type (and I consider myself an average builder) and it looks pretty good. Once production begins my influence is nullified for the most part.
 
It's up to the builder to interpret whether it's a poorly designed kit or a poorly produced kit - two entirely separate things. My concern is that regardless of ESSEX's design ANY issue will be attributed to the design on my end as opposed to a production issue.
 
I (like any designer) have to accept that inevitably there will be builders who do not like some aspect of my kit design be it drawings, methodology, instruction etc. You can't please everybody - that's just the reality of it. The best example I can give is that there are aspects of Chuck's designs (which I believe are as good as any available) that I don' care for. They're still amazing but I prefer different approaches - doesn't make them bad design.  
 
ESSEX has a shadow over it right now (and rightfully so) Hopefully moving forward the corrections along with a few build logs and the proto-type build log will re-establish the kit.
 
Your efforts have been great in showing what can be done in a scratch/bash/upgrade approach - that's just what I hoped for in designing it. You can attest that even if the kit is followed there are a number of upgrade opportunities for the builder to really go for it. But if they choose to remain true to the kit (which has a lot of scratch build aspects) they'll still end up with a hell of a finished boat.
 
Bob, as you (and a few others) have seen I have the masts and yards already drawn. I was always hoping to rig her to a high level (say along the lines of Grant's VICTORY) so I've got my work cut out for me. I also want to include additional details (boats, anchors, etc) so there's a lot to do.
 
Once I know that the corrections are complete and she's in a good place again I'll start on the rig. 
 
Sam

For those of you who are still a bit worried about ordering directly from Ancre you might want to try the Nautical Mind Bookstore in Toronto, Canada. They carry most of not all of the Ancre books. Their pricing is very competative and their service is great. You can actually speak with someone on the phone too.
 
Sam

Stuntflyer 
 
Great tip and method!
 
Nice work too.........
 
Sam

Stunt
 
You Long Boat is coming along great. Super job on the planking. Always remember (with stain) it's easier to put more on than to take it off...............
 
Sam

Moving along. The cap rails on the quarterdeck bulwarks and transom have been made from boxwood and installed. They are painted black. After doing the cap rails, I also made and installed the small pieces of rail that go above the hances. Since these pieces are in a precarious spot during further work, I put a pin through the rail and stanchion and into the rail below. The last item I did was to make and install the stern davits. These are boxwood and have the same simulated sheaves that I have used previously on this build.
 
The next work will be the guns and other deck fittings and furniture on the quarterdeck.
 
Bob 

Thanks Scott.
 
Rainy weather has cut down golf time and increased modeling time. As a result, I have made and installed the quarterdeck pin rails and also have done the quarterdeck hances and related moldings.
 
The pin rails are boxwood and were pinned and glued to the bulwarks. For the hances, I used the laser cut kit parts for the sculpted curved portion, but cut off the additional laser cut "molding" portion and replaced it with half round molding. The kit parts were nicely done, but very fragile, and it just seemed easier to use a less fragile alternative.
 
Now, I will do the cap rails for the bulwarks and transom.
 
Bob
 
 

Well, I finally was able to spend a little time in my workshop.  The net result is that I was able to complete the forward platform on my longboat.  I may have been re-inventing the wheel on this one, but I decided to use a spacer block, so my template would have the proper shape, at the correct height inside the hull.

The block, with a strip of wood glued to it, was made thick enough so that the template would give me the shape of the upper surface of the platform. The wood strip helped keep the block in place as I worked with the template.  This worked out pretty well.



It took me a couple of tries before I was able to get a template I was happy with.

I then blackened the edges of the planks, and glued them to two wood strips that were positioned so they wouldn't interfere with the frames.
Once I had the platform cut to shape, and I was happy with the fit, I used black paint brush bristles to simulate three rows of nails.  For a final touch, I added a small strip of wood across the face of the platform.  This strip was actually "L" shaped, which allowed me to glue it to the underside of the platform.

I've been told by friends who have completed their longboats that the forward platform is the more difficult of the two.  I sure hope they're right.
 
BobF

Well, here's the pics I promised.  In real life things are not as "shiny" as they appear in these pictures.
 
Interior, everything done except tiller and and "arms" for the windlass......
 

 
Outer hull...............
 

 
Floyd - I just got notice from Model Expo that my 4 packages of 1/32" x 1/8" x 24" basswood have shipped.  Not sure what size is used for the Launch, but should be close and I still have about 25 12" strips from buying the Longboat twice.
 
I want to try boxwood but can't get it from Hobby Mill (because I live in Ohio as well) and I'm still not sure how to go about it at the Lumberyard (haven't figured out what the process is and how to make sure I'm ordering the right thing) but planning on getting "better" wood when I start my first larger ship.

I added the simulated bulwark sheaves for the main braces.
 
I then made up the quarterdeck bulwark ringbolts and blackened them and a bunch of eyebolts. I also made up two sizes of cleats from boxwood. I then drilled the bulwarks and transom for all of them and installed them (with the exception of the ringbolts for the four guns that I will mount).
 
I then made two transom knees from boxwood and installed them. Lastly, I made a traveler for the boom sheet from wire and installed it in the transom with drilled holes.
 
The pin rails remain to be made and installed to complete the quarterdeck bulwark work.
 
Bob
 
 
 
 

Deck planking on the quarterdeck is now complete. I began by doing the center section of planking. This provided coverage around the hatches and masts and a base for the capstan and wheel. I left the aft section open to give a view of the cabin. After completing this , I tried out a variety of options for additional planking to mount guns. To my eye, the best was to do enough planking to mount the forward two guns on each side. I'm sure that others would probably come to different conclusions, but that is the choice I made. I did also add two small planking strips at the stern to support the transom knees.
 
I also made up the hatches and the ladderway coaming from boxwood with the kit gratings. As before, the deck planking is holly with pencil "caulking" and golden oak filler "treenails", finished with Wipe-on Poly.
 
I'm in the process of making up cleats, ringbolts and eyebolts for the quarterdeck bulwarks. Drilling for them and mounting will be next.
 
Bob 
 
 

David - your idea sounds really good but I wanted to try something I used to do on the airplanes to strengthen glued wing joints. When doing aerobatics with 90 degree pullouts at 60 mph, 10-15g stresses on the airplane are common.
 
1. First step was to glue the mast together with epoxy glue.
 

 
2. Use 1/2oz or 3/4oz fiberglass cloth, I chose 3/4 oz, to strengthen joint. 0.0015 thick.
 

 
3. Attach the cloth to the mast by spraying the cloth with spray adhesive and wrapping the cloth around the mast just once.
 

 
4. Here is a photo of the wrapped and glued cloth. At this point the joint is stronger but still not strong enough.
 

 
5. Apply 4 to 5 thin CA applications lightly sanded between coats. After the first application the mast is super strong without any flex at the joint. The additional applications will fill the weave of the cloth.
 

 
6. Finished mast repair
 

I got into a couple of those days when I just couldn't stop and completed all of the internal bulwark planking for the quarterdeck, including the transom. I also did the deck margin planks and waterways. The bulwark planking and waterways are boxwood and the deck planking is holly. I followed my usual procedure on this build with pencil "caulking" and golden oak filler "treenails".
 
I'm going to do the center strip of deck planking before making a decision on how much more planking to do for gun mounting. I've narrowed it down to three choices: all of the guns on one side and none on the other; all of the guns on one side and a couple on the other side; a couple of guns on each side.
 
Bob
 

Some photos of the mast. The sheaves are there but not seen from this view.
 

 

Finished the bowsprit today. I painted all the parts off the model to keep things looking as clean as possible.
 
I glued the "bowsprit step" in place as per the instructions. After sliding the end of the bowsprit into the step I slid the smaller brass band up against the stem. Once I was sure that there was no play fore and aft I spot glued the small brass band to the bowsprit. I then removed the bowsprit from the "bowsprit step" by pulling the bowsprit gently forward. Once removed, I applied more glue to the brass band and painted the bowsprit behind the brass band black. I then glued everything permanently into place.
 

Just did my first ever seizing even though it took 5 attempts to get it halfway right.
 

A long time distracted and then rigging guns but here they are. Remaining deck furniture up next including bitts, pumps, QD barricade and the tiller housing.

Minor progress with the chain plates pinned in place. A mast was put in place and some rigging line tied off to give the run of the chainplates.
I pulled my old Sherbourne out recently to contribute to a display of my dad's woodwork and boats and noticed I must have fixed the chainplates as per the plans rather than following the rigging line. It's only noticeable on the Sherbourne now I know what to look for but I'm keen to avoid that mistake with Granado.


The fleet takes in the last of the autumn sunshine together.

Here's how the basswood part looks temporarily in place. It will be down to careful painting to make it really work. If not its back to brass.
 
Yes it's Sunday arvo so time for a beer as I work. If you don't like beer skip this but judging by some logs ship building is as much about the experience as the building and an afternoon in the shed with tools and a new beverage to hand is my happy place.
 
With thunder rumbling in the background and the sound of distant duckshooters trying their luck it's feeling like winter so today's choice is Monteith's barrel aged porter. For those of you not familiar with NZ beer Monteith's was a smaller brewery founded on the west coast of the South Island in the 1860s. Back then, much as now it was all just coal mines, rugged mountain ranges with lots of bush and rain, but an extraordinarily number of pubs and breweries. Despite being bought out by big brewery DB about a decade back and production moved north Monteith's still turns out some decent seasonal beers. The porter, made back on the coast and not in the big city plant, is aged in American oak barrels and the traces of Pinot noir is not just marketing nonsense but detectable. There's a very subtle malt in this porter but its a case of less is more as it allows the hints of oak to flow though with a lingering caramel finish. Porters with an alcohol content over 5% usually feel a bit sharp but the subtle blend of flavours in this takes the edge of this one even at 6.5%. Recommended for any ship build on a grey day if you can find it.
 

Bob,
 
Sweet work.
 
I know you're scratching (pretty much everything) how we're you going to approach the head rails? Would it be helpful if I sent you a PDF of the images that you could copy/transfer to stock?
 
let me know
 
Sam

Okay, so here's the photos that I didn't get to take last night.   I'm still experimenting with the photography, but the pics seem to be getting better. 
 
First up, I made a "handle" from copper wire and looped it through the gunwales to provide a handhold while painting.  It also served as a holding post for the vice while the paint dried:
 

 

 
Here is the current state of play with painting.  Probably just one or two clear coats of Dull Cote for protection now:
 

 

 
Meanwhile, progress with the Cutters (well, one of them anyway):
 
Here's the keel:
 

 
And with frames placed in the building board and frame "plugs" inserted (as per the Launch):
 

 
And without the Plug:
 

 

 
Finally, here's a couple of shots of both the Pinnace and Cutter Plugs for comparison.  They are really quite different hull forms:
 

 

 
The Admiral is giving me "the look" again, so that's it for now!!!