egkb

I've been considering giving the stern a bit of a re-think. I'm not entirely happy with the upper level, so I've tkaen a pause on that for some deep thought.
 
In the mean time, I've started work on the cargo handling system. Self unloading vessels originated on the Great Lakes in the 1920s and 30s. A system of hoppers, gates and belts is used to bring cargo from the bottom of the holds up to a boom, and then off the ship, either into a shore based hopper, or onto an open pad.
Below deck, instead of the cargo holds being flat bottomed, they are slopped into a series of hopper gates. These gates are located above 1 or more longitundinal belts. Crew, known as tunnelmen, open and close the gates to all the cargo to fall ont the tunnel belts. These belts take the cargo forward or aft, depending on which end of the ship has the boom. In a multiple belt system, the tunnel belts unload into short transverse belts known as transfer belts. These belts take the feed and consolidated it  onto another belt that brings the cargo up from below.
 
There are three types of elevating belts. The simplest type is an Incline Belt. This is a very straight forward open belt that brings cargo up on a shallow angle. This system is generally quieter, but it take up a lot of space to get enough height to depost the cargo onto the boom.
 
Another system is known as the Bucket Conveyor. This is a special thick belt equipped with rubber buckets that can bring the cargo up almost vertically from below. These are very noisy systems and they are limited in the ammount and types of cargo they can move.
 
The most efficient and modern system is known as a Loop Belt. This is actually two belts that compress together over the cargo and forms a gigantic "C". These belts can move very fast, and can move a large variety of bulk cargos, there is very little they can't lift.
 
A basic section of a modern self unloading vessel:

 
 
Which brings me back to the Stadacona. I am fairly certain she had a loop belt system. You can see on the Photo of the Joseph H Franz, the ammound of space needed for an incline belt system. So whether or not she had a bucket belt or a loop is a matter for the rivet counters, the point on this excercise was for get the outer casing made up. The first step was roughing out the dimensions on a piece of paper. The two sides were then created and then the middle parts (my supplier is currently out of white styrene sheet, so I had to resort to black sheet instead.... not as convenient to write on... but it is UV resistant... )
 
Anyway, there are a lot more details to work out as well as construction of the massive "A" frame structure that supports the boom. Another challenge lies ahead.
 
Andy

Tonight I turned a small block of basswood into the stern counter block without the use of power tools (and, some would argue, without the use of proper tools). The next time I make one of these, I will wait until I have fitted it to the keel before shaping the left and right sides, so as to ensure better alignment with the edges of the sternmost bulkhead.  
 

Keel rabbet completed with only minor injuries. It didn’t come out as smoothly as I would have liked, but I don’t know how that will affect the final build. Something to work on for next time.  
 

Holes drilled, sanded toothpicks fitted. Too tired to glue, so waiting until tomorrow.  

Clamped Dremel flex-cord to a block of wood and elevated another block for the keel assembly. Sanded board under keel assembly until it was shiny in order to move it smoothly towards drill bit.  

Thanks, Hamilton. I really had been hoping for others to do the build at the same time so that we could help push each other along. Having said that, Terry I think you made the right choice. Good luck with the Emma.
 
The bulwark planking on the port side is now done. Everything was done the same as on the other side. As usual, having done it once made the second effort go a little quicker and easier, though I have to admit that knowing that more of it would remain visible probably made me a bit more careful this time.
 
My plan is to now do the stern windows and finish the outer stern planking, and then do the inner stern planking and cabinetry. That will be followed by the gun deck planking. 
 
Bob

A little late for this one, but next time you might consider pre-painting the whales, fashion pieces, cap rail, etc. and other black pieces of wood prior to gluing into place with black India ink. You can reapply ink to areas that you sand easily and then you don't need to worry about bleed off etc. Black India ink allows the grain of the wood to show thru and it almost looks like you used ebony.

Time for an update.  Not that I've achieved a major milestone but I need to take a break to handle some 'real life'.
 
Most of the planking above the wales has been completed P/S.  The gun ports on the gun and quarter decks are completed.  I've touched up the gun port red and done the first coarse sanding. 
 
There are still about 4 rows of planks to finish up the main wale.  Then I'll be able to final sand and begin finishing on this section.  The sweep ports will be installed, the double planking on the wales put on and I need to decide what will be painted and what will be stained.  Treenailing is also on the docket.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Sounds like a plan ---- right into 2014!
 
Stay well, mates.

Clever stuff going on here Ollie.. Love the Valve Adaptor work, Nice
 
Eamonn

Finally, an update to the build.
I have been remiss in working on the build as I became preoccupied with buying and setting up my new mill. (I just love this hobby.)
 

 
 
Anyway,
 
In my last update I had stained the hull.
Next was painting which, since I used an airbrush, I began by masking.
 

 

 

 
The painting did not come out too badly. I still had some leak under the tape so I will have to burnish the edges a little more carefully next time around. I also picked up some Tamiya yellow masking tape to try the next time.
 
Then I went to work on the fashion pieces. This required a number of reworks. So tiny... such big fingers. As I look at the work on the fashion pieces it looks crude but it should be covered up by a second layer so I will hold off judgment for now. Also, there will be a little... well maybe a lot, of paint touch up around the work area.
By the way, Larry, you were right about holding off on protective finish for now.
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Next will be the cap rail
 
Richard

After almost a week, it appears that the last winner isn't going to take his turn. I suggest that we send out the press gang to find the previous winner, JMaitri, to post another ship.

More on stern anchors later...
 
A small update this morning. Just the preliminary work on the poop deck structure. The forward part would have been part of the engine casing, while the after part was more accomadations.
 
And just for my own reference, and everyone else's amusement, another view of the whole ship mocked up as she stands now in construction.
 
It happens to be a nice sunny (and cold) day, so I'm affraid all the white in the photos gets washed out.
 
Andy

Hello shipmates.
 Another long update :-
Spent a little time making a ropewalk. but this one is a little larger than the Philips shaver on I have used before.
The shaver would not stand twisting the heaver ropes that I wanted for this model.
The parts are from Ebay. Approx  2 hours to build.
A simple servo tester, A cheep brushless speed controller, And a brushless motor.
Gears used ..1 off 60mm dia 58 teeth, 3 off 20mm dia 18 teeth, 1 off 14mm Dia 12 teeth.

 

Yes I have used miniature thrust bearings as I has them in my storage box.

That’s about it for the Ropewalk.
 
Now for the Build
A test of the Tulip wood and the different types of caulking that I am using for the deck planking

 
little loop on the wire ends for the Led lanterns to hang from.

 
Wire hidden in the wood. Cut a line with the razor saw then push the brass wire into the slot.

Main Gundeck in place But not glued. Bits missing are left out to enable deck to fit between the frames.
 
 
View from the bottom.

 
Completed Deck with out planking.(bottom view)

 
Completed Deck with out planking.(top view)

 
some of the furniture ready for assembly.

 
close up of Joinery.

 
Odd photo

 
Completed Deck with out glue

 
That’s it for now
 
Enjoy.
Thanks for looking in Antony.
 
 
 

Clever stuff going on here Ollie.. Love the Valve Adaptor work, Nice
 
Eamonn

A little update on the head rails: I started with the middle rails as they seem to be the most challenging parts and I wanted to get them out of the way before Christmas. Like the cheeks I made them out of pear wood. Image 1 shows the assembled starboard rail including the hanging knee. To get the right shape I fitted the 3 pieces of the middle rail together as they were temporarily mounted on the hull, but I removed the piece as a whole for the final finishing. Images 2, 3, and 4 show the permanently mounted middle rails from different angles. Image 5 shows a prototype of the upper rail. The final candidate will have the upper end of the molding ending a bit further down to be better in sync with the middle rails.
 

Image 1: Starboard middle rail 
 
 

Image 2: Starboard middle rail
 
 

Image 3: Mounted middle rails
 
 

Image 4: Mounted middle rails
 
 

Image 5: Prototype of upper rail
 
 

Thanks Maury and Bill - I'll get around to doing that.
 
Quarterdeck Timberheads
 
I've finished making all the straight timberheads and now I need to make the angled ones for the quarterdeck.
 
First thing to do was determine the angles. I'm starting with the shallowest near the fore of the deck. I've used my digital level to get the first angle :
 

 
Then I marked the angle on my jig on both sides of the wider slot, and cut the sides of the slot :
 

 
Then I filed and cut the steps etc as before. A wedge holds the piece in place while I cut or file it :
 

 

 
As I progress aft the angle will increase. Each needs to be measured, and the jig re-cut to suit.
 
  Danny

Dave, thanks for the tip regarding the hoop and pegs.
 
Bob, I am pleased that you are following along. I did look at the windings on a couple of very small motors today both were a larger Diameter than the telephone coil wire, which is .0028"
 
Early this morning while reaching for a piece of wire I caught the top of the mast and snapped about 1/4 inch off, so I had to make a new mast. I decided to use some of the Lilac so stripped off a 1/16 x 1/16th square of it, then filed it round in the new mini dowel filing jig.
 

 
next is a shot of the telephone coils
 

 
And a close up of the wire with the thread coating.
 

 
I needed to make a modification to the filing jig so that I could also use it as a drilling jig, to that end I added an adjustable saddle for the pin vice with an elevating screw to counteract the taper on the mast or other spars. there is also a second V groove for the initial shaping. for the shaping of the mast I made a couple of paddle sanding sticks so that the taper was even they are 400 and 600
 

 
Drilling the .008' holes was a bit nerve wracking, I pushed the mast down onto the v groove which stopped it from rotating while I drilled the hole with a watchmaking pivot drill in another pin vice.
 
the next picture shows the .0028 wire through the hole at the top of the new mast the diameter at the top is .030 which is a bit heavy but looks OK.
 

 
the next picture shows filing down the shoulder on the mast to fit the hole in the deck. I really like the way this new jig works.
 

 
The next **** shows the goosneck fixed into the mast the wire is 36 gauge wrapped around some .011 hard wire then closed up a little more with a couple of pairs of pliers.
 

 
the next two show the current state of the build, with the old mast being salvaged and being used as the bowsprit.  I am going to take a break from the micro it is hard on my nerves, and get back to the Bristol cutter for a bit.
 

 
 

 
Michael
 

I started out making the ratchet mechanism.. I took a valve adapter for a tyre pump (thought it may be brass but was obviously alloy.. . Some careful filing with various files and etch primed and enamel painted.
 
The shaft is stainless and i need to work out next stages for tomorrow afternoon..

Thanks John.
 
I think with a little bit more fiddling I can get this goosneck looking reasonable.
 

 
definitely need a visor.
 
michael

Bob, it is funny you should mention that, I was wondering about the amazing work of some of our companions on the wonderful journey through life as I was working out how to get really small threads.
 
John I just found some 36 gauge copper wire and it looks pretty fine, I am wondering if there is a smaller diameter wire easily available. it would definitely be easier.
 
Druxey, thank you very much.
 
Today I sorted out a new filing jig for working with very small diameters, taking a cue from the world of watchmaking I made a small guide to rest the dowel in and using a sanding stick with 600 grit
am able to easily work on the wood.
 
some of course will recognize the salvaged black key. lovely ebony that no doubt was part of some wonderful music in its earlier life.
 

 
twirling the boom in the pin vice at the same time as using the sanding stick.
 

 
A fair way to go yet, drilling the hole in the mast was a bit fiddly I really must get one of those magnifying lights or a good visor. the pin in the end of the boom is some 38 gauge hard wire basically .004" I am thinking that I need a better mast and then I can bend the wire in the end of the boom and drop it into a goosneck formed from a couple of wraps of wire on the mast.
 

 
That's it for now.
 
Michael

Hello all,
I got tired of making bolts for my cannon carriages so I decided to put the riggers to work starting to prepare the rigging.
 
Decided to start with the main stay:  Here is a summary of the process
The line I am using is Morope.  An eye is turned in on the end with a circumference just large enough for the stay to pass through.  Morope is tricky to unlay for splicing because it is nylon.  When cut it will just fall apart  I separated the strands with a toothpick and touched a drop of CA to each before cutting so that the strands would not unravel.  The eye was then serviced with sewing thread with the serving continued over the splice.  The stay was then wormed for one third of its length from the eye.  I did not bother with parcelling.  The mouse was then raised on the stay to it's proper shape and size with sewing thread then pointed over to finish.  The mouse is several hours worth of work with the needle and thread
 
I hope you enjoy
 

 
 

 

Jason, that looks incredible!
 
Eamonn

Greetings all,
 
With the weather the way it is here on the East coast, it sure makes for a good to work on the models.  No snow here, but from the football games on Television some ares are getting hit pretty hard.  Only rain and wind for Virginia Beach.  
 
Here are some photos after todays work, enjoy!
 
Cheers,
Tim
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Adeline, the pencil is a regular full size drawing one. your comment reminded me that I did make a couple of yellow pencils for a customer survey station about 15 years or so ago, My son has those pencils now they are about 5 feet long about 3 inches in diameter.
 
Thinking about fine line for rigging it occurred to me that most threads are made from a number of smaller strands.
 
I first took some .025mm nylon canvas thread and unraveled it (tricky) but once the end is spayed you can pull out a strand with a pair of fine tweezers. the brown and sharp gauge puts the .0014 at 47gauge
 

 
I have a bench micrometer that is metric but the charts I have for wire gauges are all in imperial so I made a small stand for my imperial Moore and Wright 1" micrometer I need a fixed micrometer to measure the tiny stuff this way I can adjust the micrometer until the thread just slips between the anvils. The metal strands in the background are 35 gauge.
 

 
I laid one of the strands on the deck and it looks right for the fine standing rigging plus 500 times .0014" is .7 of an inch at full size so it is still a tad on the large size.
 

 
The key will be tying a knot. I have not tried that yet.
 

 
 
Time for some shut eye.
 
Michael

Bob Thanks for looking in on the tiny build. I have a whole new appreciation for Donald McNarry let me tell you. It took me an hour to make a new mast that is a scale 12 inches in diameter at the base. .024" it is bamboo I used a draw plate and a sanding stick but did most of the final sizing by scraping with a knife blade. It looks like the mast now needs a bit of tapering, it is definitely tricky working with these big splinters.
 
The photo shows the mast to be smaller at the middle than the top I did not see that while working on it I will try some other woods for this small stuff.
 
Here is mini sitting on the stem of the 1:8
 

 
and a shot in daylight with the thinner mast. I took out the 12 inch thick tiller handle.
 

 
Michael