keelhauled

Thanks Bob!  I've soldered using both the torch and the irons.  I used silver solder with the torch.  The silver is supposed to be stronger structurally, and I'm sure that it is.  However, I made a couple of davits and stanchions using both methods side by side (mainly cause I don't like using the torch) and didn't see much difference when I pressed against the piece with my thumb.  The same pressure would have cracked the wood on a bulwark if I had pressed against an eye epoxied into the side.  I'm by no means an expert.  Just remember to use the rosin and don't burn yourself - very easy to do.  Oh, the other part is remember to use heat sinks - especially with the torch.  I've unsoldered joints in one part of the structure at the same time that I was forming them somewhere else.  The brass got too hot.  I bought my torch from Micro Mark, but you can by them from jewelry supply dealers.  I've purchased several tools from sites dedicated to folks who make jewelry as a hobby.  They even have videos on soldering (that's how I learned).  One last comment.  Don't use too much solder and always clean your surfaces before soldering.
 
I case you're interested, the water pump I made a few post back was soldered together using a torch.
 
Take care,
marc

Well, I'm finally back from medical leave.  Thank God for modern science and medicine as well as my wife!  She has been nursing me back to health.  I had to take a month off to recover. 
 
Now I'm back making up for lost time. I haven't had time to post  - too busy building ,
so here is a chance to catch up.
 
I worked on the fore castle.  I created walnut molding to cap the end of the deck. I also cut through the deck and added the posts for towing the ship (sorry the proper term has slipped my mind  ).  I built the paint locker for under the deck on the starboard side and the pig sty for under the deck on the port side.
 
Here are some photos
 

A photo of the kit for reference.
 

where the paint locker on the ship should be. It was missing this time, but present the first time I was there. I have a photo, but not a scanner to digitize it. Also note the towing post running through the deck viewable above the hatch (black and white post)
 

Paint locker and towing post on the left (forward)
 

Pig sty on the ship
 

Pig sty on the model created from soldering brass wire.  I also added the belaying pins per Campbell. although the pins are the same size as those provided with the kit, I think that they are too large and will most likely replace them with smaller ones.
 
I really didn't like the windless that came with the model, so I built one from scratch.  I think that it turned out really good!

The actual ship for reference.  The towing posts are on the left and right.
 

With the handles
 

I ended up taking the handles off.  Since I was going to have the ship under sail, it didn't make sense that the crew would have left the handles in longer than necessary to get the anchor up.  So off they came.
 
Here are the cats. I made them from scratch (except the whiskers).  I made the anchor release our of brass, using the book by as a reference. The cat is actually in relief.  I'm not sure how good the sculpt is but it was the best I could do.


 
That's it for now.
 
Take care and stay healthy!

Wonderful. Made my day!  Great craftsmanship on the build!  You sir- are a true artist!

Nenad,
 
Wow your Cutty is really coming along!!  She looks great.  Nice job on the bulwarks.  They are a pain.  Their height between the deck and rail changes (Campbell's plans) and the inlays are challenging.  The counter is another challenge.  You really did a wonderful job.  The second attempt really came out well!
 
I always enjoy seeing your progress.
 
Take care,
Marc

I made stuns'l boom irons based on Chuck's paper on making Yard details
http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Mats_and_Yards/Making%20yard%20details.pdf
 
I used epoxy.  Although it worked ok, I think that I would solder them in the future.  I had a couple of irons come apart since there isn't much surface area between the rod and the pipe.
 
If you use epoxy, make sure that you hold the rod when bending and not the pipe.  Holding the pipe and bending the rod will stress the epoxy joint and could weaken it.
 
 
 
 
 

I worked on the bowsprit.  I went off of actual photos of the ship as well as Campbell's plans.
Although the gammoning chains should wrap through the stem, the model didn't have this detail and by the time I realized it, it was too late.  Further, the only portion of the gammoning that is visible when the model is finished will be the part going across the top of the bowsprit.  So I just wrapped the chain around the bowsprit.  The bands are brass.  I simulated the hinge and clasp with brass rods and tubes.  The dolphin striker is also made of brass.
 

Sorry for the break in posts.  I've been working on the ship on and off, but haven't managed to post the progress.  I have been taking some photos so I'll work on posting them.

 

I decided to tackle the ships pump. 



 

The pump that came with the kit didn't look anything like the real one.  In fact, I can't figure out what the kit piece is supposed to represent.  It kind of looks like a cam shaft for a car.



 

Anyway, I made the pump out of brass.  The pictures are of it before I painted it.  But I think it probably shows up better before painting.



 

Thanks

Marc

HI!
I started work on the bulwarks.  The kit has very large wooden stanchions, which I didn't think reflected very accurately what was present on the actual ship.  I had been following another modeler's build and he had replaced the kit stanchions with scratch made versions which I think looked much better.  I asked him how he did it and he was kind enough not only to explain, but send a couple of extras for me to replicate.  There are essentially three different types of stanchions with two main groups: those with rings and those without. I followed Longridge's book to the types and placement.
 
So the stanchions are mad with brass rods.  Pintels are bent and soldered to the rods to make the brackets to hold the rings.  To secure the rods into place, I drilled holes into the water ways and made a very small rail which fit under the main rail and had cutouts for the tops of the stanchions. 
 
The other change I made from the kit was to include the panels between the main rail and the topgallent rail.  I made the oval cutouts by making a jig to cut two holes for the ends of the cutouts and then cutting between the holes with an xacto knife.  I thought that the effect looks pretty good. especially when viewed at a normal distance from the model.  You can find a jpeg with the graphical explanation at http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1000-cutty-sark-by-keelhauled-mantua-kit-bashed-first-wooden-ship-build/page-4#entry122099
 
The actual ship bulwarks and stanchions

 
The Kit Stanchions

 
The model with scratch built stanchions and panels

 
another view.  I think that the kit size of the belaying pins is too big.  I'll try another size.

I worked on the bowsprit.  I went off of actual photos of the ship as well as Campbell's plans.
Although the gammoning chains should wrap through the stem, the model didn't have this detail and by the time I realized it, it was too late.  Further, the only portion of the gammoning that is visible when the model is finished will be the part going across the top of the bowsprit.  So I just wrapped the chain around the bowsprit.  The bands are brass.  I simulated the hinge and clasp with brass rods and tubes.  The dolphin striker is also made of brass.
 

So I haven't been setting the world on fire. But I have gotten a couple of items assembled. It always amazes me how I can work for hours and not have much to show.  It's the journey and not the destination! right?! 
 
So I've assembled the ships wheel

 
It's not pictured, but I ended up painting the brass cap at the top of the handle.  The wheel was very light, so I applied several coats of dark walnut stain.
 
The kit didn't include the fire bucket rail, so I built one.  I purchased the buckets. I made the rail as close as I could to the actual ship's rail.  Different photos of the ship over the years show slightly different arrangements of the buckets as does the different plans. I went with what made the most sense based on the size of the buckets that I had. .  I drilled holes through the uprights, through the rails and the tops. Then I put bronze pins through the assemblies in an attempt to give it some strength.  When I was drilling the holes for the buckets I evenly spaced them.  Dumb, I forgot to adjust the spacing for the spindles.  I realized after it was all glued in place.  It will be a mistake that I can live with. 
 
 The photo is of the assembly almost finished.  The tops weren't glued in place, so there is some misalignment in the photo

 
I also built the hen coops. The coops are kit bashed to match the actual ones.  The kit had brass pins going around the coop with no door.  The actual coops have sides and doors in the front.  Although they aren't pictured here, I also put the rings on the sides which tie down the coops to the deck.
 

 
Thanks for the feedback!

Popeye, Nenad, and Bob,
 
Thanks for the condolences and wishes.  We just interned my father-in-law today. 
I appreciate the thoughts.  He is greatly missed.
 
Hopefully, I'll be back in the garage this week.  I was able to spend a couple of hours last week, but that has been it for the past month and a half.
 
Take care,
Marc

make sure the home is secure before you do.......do what you need to do........then you'll be able to continue your build,  on an even keel.
   I'll look forward to your updates.....

So I haven't been setting the world on fire. But I have gotten a couple of items assembled. It always amazes me how I can work for hours and not have much to show.  It's the journey and not the destination! right?! 
 
So I've assembled the ships wheel

 
It's not pictured, but I ended up painting the brass cap at the top of the handle.  The wheel was very light, so I applied several coats of dark walnut stain.
 
The kit didn't include the fire bucket rail, so I built one.  I purchased the buckets. I made the rail as close as I could to the actual ship's rail.  Different photos of the ship over the years show slightly different arrangements of the buckets as does the different plans. I went with what made the most sense based on the size of the buckets that I had. .  I drilled holes through the uprights, through the rails and the tops. Then I put bronze pins through the assemblies in an attempt to give it some strength.  When I was drilling the holes for the buckets I evenly spaced them.  Dumb, I forgot to adjust the spacing for the spindles.  I realized after it was all glued in place.  It will be a mistake that I can live with. 
 
 The photo is of the assembly almost finished.  The tops weren't glued in place, so there is some misalignment in the photo

 
I also built the hen coops. The coops are kit bashed to match the actual ones.  The kit had brass pins going around the coop with no door.  The actual coops have sides and doors in the front.  Although they aren't pictured here, I also put the rings on the sides which tie down the coops to the deck.
 

 
Thanks for the feedback!

Off to a good start!  what plans are you using?

I wish I could be a better barometer for you......she had her share of both......lots of teak though.   then she changed hands a few times and info really becomes cloudy.   I wanted to get another one,  and try to do her as the Portugese ship Ferreira.....nicknamed the Pequena Camisola by her crew........and later turned into a Barquentene  Maria Do Amparo....very few info,  if none at all about these two

Thanks Popeye!
 
When I was trying to figure out whether to varnish the cabins or paint them white, I looked at historic photos and paintings. One painting, commissioned by the Ship's owner and painted the year of the launch, had the cabins finished in teak. Then I read a scientific analysis of the paints taken during the restoration
from areas on the cabin that were protected from stripping over the years . The report said the first layer had been white, then subsequent layers consisted of coasts of varnishes, and other coats of white.  So were the cabins originally painted white and then the owner had them stripped back to teak and varnished as in the painting during her first year?  Who knows?!  I gave up and just painted the panels white. 
 
Same thing happened trying to figure out the hatches as well as the combings.  Some photos had them white, some were dark (black or reddish/orange? - I read descriptions of both). 
 
Tons of time spend with magnifier glasses and old photos.
 
I think that I spend too much time trying to figure out what the ship should look like instead of just building it.  Sometimes I should just make a decision and move on. 
OR drink more!!!
 
Marc

Hi Marc,
 
That's some nice work your doing there mate, it's the little bits that bring a ship to life and your Cutty is coming alive.
 
Well done and keep it up.
 
mobbsie

good to see your back at it......take your time.  it is good to put in missing detail that the kit doesn't have...especially if it's too big to ignore.
   there is always a lot of controversary about paint and fitting......and the time period in which they were present.  that's a big problem with pictures......there's never an exact date in which they were taken.   I ran into that big time when I did my revell kit.....I must have three different accounts concerning paint.   I just picked a scheme and went with it.   your doing a fine job......even if your just playing with the sub assemblies for now.   when your ready to work on the big picture........the build will be that much quicker.  go at a steady pace....I know I'm not going anywhere.........I'm sure others aren't either. 

looking very nice.......glad to see your back on your build again.   take it slow........don't want the admiral to put you in shackles 

Glad to hear you are feeling better

Hi Marc,
 
For some reason I've only just found your log. I built the Billings version of this ship about 25 years ago. Back then there was no MSW and no Internet, so I had to " go it alone". You know the old saying, "if I knew then what I know now......."
 
I've really enjoyed reading your log. You are doing a great job of improving on what seems to be a reasonably good kit. Your additions and scratch built items are well thought out and implemented.
 
Sorry to hear about your surgery, but glad o hear you're back on deck now. I've just had similar, with three weeks off, only returning to work last week. Take it easy and don't over do it coming back. As Mark Taylor's signature block says, "the wood is patient". And so are we!
 
I look forward to following the rest of your build.

Hi Mark,
 
Pleased to read your all mended now and back building, you have made some nice changes there, well done.
 
mobbsie

my garage conversion continues, raised floor ceiling and walls are finished, the barrier between me and the wabbits is 90% done, at present i am working out work top area and storage, still on track for a Easter restart.
i fully appreciate this is a hobby site for boats and not loft/ garage conversions, if anyone is concerned with this, please tell me and i will stop posting non Victory related stuff
 

Marc
 
I'm sorry to hear of your troubles.  Take the time you need to heal - the build (and those of us watching it) will be here when you are able to get back to it.
 
Bob

Not offended at all, most people here try to improve on the kit in some way. Enjoying your build so far, please keep posting!