Reg

Hi Albert,
 
Great work!  Did you have any trouble enlarging the plans for the 1/48 scale?  Is the table that you are working on what you will use for your building board?
 
Thanks,
 
Reg

Hi Albert,
 
Great work!  Did you have any trouble enlarging the plans for the 1/48 scale?  Is the table that you are working on what you will use for your building board?
 
Thanks,
 
Reg

The clay work and gold leaf came out great.  
 
Greg

Wonderful!!!
 
Greg

So, after many layers of gesso and sanding a good surface was achieved on the plug. While gesso coats were drying, I began construction of the backbone of the cutter. The stem and stern posts were cut out of wood a scale 2" and 3" respectively. The stern post was tapered to 2" at the heel. The rabbets were marked out carefully and cut. The drawings of this cutter showed both inner and outer rabbet lines. This established the changing bevels. The outer line was cut with a new scalpel blade and the bevel cut using a miniature chisel. Thinking ahead, the holes for the ringbolts were drilled using a #72 bit held in a pin chuck. Next will be the keel.

Well, having read the thread on an article seen the drawings and photos about a cutter preserved in Venice, the beautiful form has inspired me to attempt to build a model in 1:48 scale. 
 
The first step was to download the photos of the pages in the article that showed the surveyed drawings.  These had to be stitched together and distortion removed, which was done in PhotoShop. Then  the drawings had to be re-sized to 1:48. Having  the overall length, width and depth helped define the reduction required.
 
Once the drawings were to scale, I could begin. The first step was to begin preparing a plug on which to build the hull. Leaves of yellow cedar were cut from blocks (1) and sanded. Four layers a scale 4" thick, two layers 8" and one layer of 15" were needed for each half of the plug. These thicknesses matched the waterlines on the plan (2).
 
Tracing paper was used to transfer the waterlines to the leaves of cedar and laid down using graphite paper (3). The opposite pairs of wood leaves were rubber cemented together before cutting them out on the scroll saw.
 
To be continued!

Hi,
 
I am looking forward to your build and the superb documentation you provide.  Best of luck!
 
Greg

The first model of any kind I actually finished! I really am enjoying this. Roughly a month in construction. Next!
 

Just be aware that the laser set does not include the base model, so the kit and detail set together come to €21.98 -- still a far cry from any plastic kit and its associated PE upgrades.

1:250 Steam Harbor Tug WARATAH 1902
HMV
Available from Fentens Papermodels €8.99
 

Photo courtesy of HMV
 
(All photos by the author except where noted.)
The steam tug Waratah was built in 1902 for service in Sydney Harbor, Australia. She is presently part of the Sydney Heritage Fleet and is used for harbor excursions. You can read more of her history at the Sydney Heritage Fleet website. Fresh off the presses and designed by Carsten Horn, Hamburger Modellbaubogen Verlag (HMV) now offer this eye-pleasing vessel as a card model in their usual 1/250 scale. At that scale, the finished model is a mere 133 mm in length (5.23 in.), which may not seem all that small until the kit is actually seen in person! The kit consists of only 246 parts on two sheets, but because of the many tiny pieces, the kit is marked schwierig (difficult), so some prior experience in card modeling is desirable.
 
The printing is up to the usual high standards of HMV, with sharp colors, excellent registration, and a good amount of detail. Reverse-side printing has been done on parts that will be visible on two sides. Parts marked with an "A" indicate alternate parts to provide additional detail, such as doubling doors. An "L" indicates that the part can be replaced with an optional laser-cut piece (available separately). Longtime builders of HMV models will notice that fold lines, which used to be printed right on the part to be folded, are now printed adjacent to the part instead, which is a nice improvement.
 

 
Directions for construction consist in the main of a series of 13 diagrams. A very brief description of how to interpret the various markings on the diagrams is provided in six languages (German, English, French, Spanish, Japanese, and Russian). The diagrams appear to be very thorough; part numbers are plainly marked, and alternate and laser-cut optional parts are indicated as well. Also included is a rigging diagram, which, for such a small model, is thankfully very simple.
 

 
The hull is built in HMV's usual "egg-crate" style, based on a longitudinal hull profile piece and a number of transverse bulkheads. Hull sides are attached to tabs that fold up or down from the base plate and deck.
 

 
With an MSRP of only €8.99, this nice little model won't make a big dent in anyone's budget. The laser-cut detail set, at €12.99, costs a bit more, but in my opinion it is money well-spent, since the set includes nearly all of the "fiddly bits" pre-cut in colored card stock. This spares the modeler a lot of time and nerve-wracking effort spent cutting out tiny and delicate parts, and also greatly enhances the look of the finished model. Waratah's detail set includes a whopping 11 frets of variously-colored parts.
 

 

 
With or without the detail set, Waratah should build into a very detailed and attractive small model, one that satisfactorily captures the certain elegance that workboats of a bygone era possessed. This kit is thus a welcome addition to HMV's fleet of civilian vessels.
 
Thanks are due to Fentens Papermodels for sending out this review example. If you enjoyed this review, you can show your appreciation to Fentens by visiting their website. If you make a purchase, be sure to mention that Model Ship World sent you!
 

Photo courtesy of Fentens Papermodels

Some more pics with other sub-assemblies including hull:
 

Hi. 
Some cardboard frame sets have not been acid free, at least in the past.  I am not sure how that might affect longevity. 
 
Greg

Hi. 
Some cardboard frame sets have not been acid free, at least in the past.  I am not sure how that might affect longevity. 
 
Greg

Hi. 
Some cardboard frame sets have not been acid free, at least in the past.  I am not sure how that might affect longevity. 
 
Greg

Hi. 
Some cardboard frame sets have not been acid free, at least in the past.  I am not sure how that might affect longevity. 
 
Greg

I insert a casemate in his place.  The arrow indicates the lower contour of the casemate for soldering.

The result after grinding on the photo:

Deck installation.

Marking and installation of propeller shafts.

Thank you, Nils.
In the museum style there is now a photograph of a steam torpedo boat (1901) of 1:24 scale. In 2013, the boat was delivered to the UK  https://www.modelboats.co.uk/news/article/the-2013-model-boat-convention/17134 . The text contains the name of the owner of the collection who now owns the boat.

While the epoxy resin on the case dries out, I make parts of the screw-steering complex:
- screw-propellers
- propeller shafts
- propeller shaft couplings
- propeller shaft brackets
I use soldering silver.

3) The third reason is the style of model execution.
 
This style implies the refusal to paint many details. They will either be polished or anodized.

2) The second reason is manufacturability.
  Many parts can not be created from plastic so that they are copied to scale.
For example such ...

Grinding, spackling and hull preparation for bonding fiberglass.

The two halves of the ship come together.