kruginmi

After a bit of a hiatus I finally allocated some time and much to my chagrin the first thing I did was to pick up the hull exerting too much pressure on the rudder and.....snap, the tiller arm broke where it connected to the rudder. I didn't take any pictures so there will be no records of the mishap (hah, hah). Bad news, good news. Bad news was that it broke. Good news is that the area was still entirely accessible. So I took two steps backward and removed the rudder structure. I added a steel pin where the tiller arm met the rudder (brad nail with head clipped off) and after everything checked out reinstalled everything. So, so many hours later I am right back to where I started from. Now to be so very careful in the future anywhere near the rudder! Okay, now to actually make progress. I am making the plan for the gun deck and my original plan was to replicate what I did on the berth deck and use straight planks (as shown with the line on the bottom part of the picture): I cannot claim that I had intent with how I laid out the faux carlings but it certainly looks like the better idea is to plank the outer areas with curved planks that match the flow of the hull (tried to demonstrate with line on the upper part of the picture). Certainly make the time required to implement a lot longer but it will show much better. The central part of the deck will still have the straight planks. Mark

I will skip over the ice storm, providing refuge to a family of 8, car issues, the holidays and such and actually do some modeling on the last day of 2013: The object is the stove stack. Into my stove I had cut a slot for an 1/4" brass tube which I procured locally. Luckily I decided to just put everything in place with this oversized tube 'just to make sure.' Well, it was very obvious the angle was significantly off: Pondering this it all made sense. The stove was sitting on a deck that had a slight pitch up towards the stem. Looking at the plans the base of the stove was indeed angled to allow the stove / pots to sit level with the water line. how many times have I looked at these and never seen that? So I added the appropriate shim and brought the angle to rights: With that taken care of I was able to use the deck beams to mark off the different levels. These checked out with the plans (always a good thing) and I identified the height and angle required which I cut out with a very fine toothed straight saw: After some silver soldering (got so excited I didn't take any pictures) the pipe was complete. A good result for not so much work. It still needs to be blackened but this will wait. I really like the solid feel while still able to remove it out of the way for now. This pipe now sits as Mr. Hahn constructed it. I am still scratching my head if I will go ahead and construct the brass cover assembly. Next job is the berth deck waterway so I can start planking that deck in. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year, mark

Whew! When I decided to 'knock' out the rudder I had no idea the task I had set myself on. Luckily, I say that looking back! That's right, the rudder is finally in the rear view mirror. This morning I escaped from the family and fashioned the blocks and rigging necessary to get every thing ship shape. A very big day in the life of Druid. I will post a couple pics of the obligatory rigging components. Very tight spaces, small pieces and trying to get everything to match up with the plan. First in the rough with all the stropping added and the synching up required. Now for some clean-up and final looks (before it disappears into the depths of the hull: Finally, I put it all together (looking at the plan MANY times to insure each side was a mirror of the other and corresponded to the plans): Unfortunately, everything starts to disappear as the next level carings and ledges are added: As you can see I did need to cut out a little of the mast centering piece that was in the way, but this is to be all under floor planks. Still need to run everything up to the ships wheel which will provide the needed tension to keep everything a little straighter. I now get to think about this (small) victory for at least the rest of the day, before I move on to the next job. Mark

I probably use my proportional divider (just like the one pictured) equal to or more than any other tool at my disposal. I hardly ever use ruler measurements. Anything off of the plan, or for that matter off of the ship being built, is done using these as well as a multitude of other things. I can't tell you how many times I need to find an accurate midpoint or just to transfer a specific dimension from one place to another. Planking has already been stated. With a good pair (mine cost $80) the measurements are spot on. I seem to find more uses as time goes by. Each person has to figure out what works for them, but for me I find these simplify my life greatly - and to a greater accuracy. Mark

One small addendum, Lou (if you didn't already know): after scoring the brass sheet with the utility knife, I put some straight wood on one side of the score and bent the metal along the score until around a 90 degree bend. After two alternating bends the sheet simply separated at the score line. This resulted in a very clean and straight 'cut' (at least as straight as the score line). I did do a quick once over with a small file to eliminate any sharp edges. Probably better than using scissors (if possible). Looking Great! Mark

I have had limited time in the shipyard but have been working on those blocks for quite awhile and still not satisfied with the result. They look a whole lot better then above by going on a weight loss plan (width and length). I almost just gave in and went to stropping them when I suddenly realized - this was My Druid. Then it came to me - why make the blocks like kit blocks?? I went and fashioned ones by the numbers in less than an hour (a lot less time than the previous attempt!). Below is a picture of the blocks in mid-construction. I did glue the inner sheave to the block itself. You can see the jig I made up to cut the sheave off of a hardwood dowel. The outer layer is 1/16 inch basswood, the inner one 1/32 inch. Once glued up, I cut each middle layer at the mid-way point. With just a little shaping I compared this with the previous attempt: This is SO much faster than trying to hack out of a solid block (for me) and the result looks so much better. I will still do some shaping to reduce the overall width but that is very straight forward. Each block looks the same and somewhat accurate also. To add the external groove for the stropping to ride in I used a special cutter attachment on my dremel: On any 1:48 scale model (or larger) I will always use this method for blocks. NOW I can finally think about stropping. Mark

Sherry, my Druid is 95+% basswood. I experimented with a lot of finishes and ended up using General FInishes Gel Urethane for an even finish without splotches. I showed the results of my experiments in my log. It does add a tinge of yellow that will darken with age. Looks Great - good luck! Mark

After a bunch of fits and starts I finally tried my hand at some rigging blocks for the tiller. Of course these will not be seen, being buried in the back of the berth deck. I will say the effort for these things is not inconsequential. I think I still have another hour or so of refining individual blocks to bring out their best. With only eight to make I didn't build up any sort of jig. With any more, this would have been a requirement. On the question of stropping I am leaning towards using wire and extending that wire to allow the block to be fixed to the hull. With the tension from the tiller rope they should be very taught and basically parallel to the deck. I am worried using rope a sag will result. Not trying to think too much! mark

So, where do they stash the run up here? I like the improvements (though I am a little biased). I need to make friends like you to get such a gift!! They better be worthy. mark

Lou, you have pushed my thoughts in a direction that I have been pushing myself (and it sure feels like the right decision so it must be the right one). As soon as you cut the tie with being limited to what is presented, the vistas open up. I will stay with the theme of the British given name and produce a male, hooded Druid (with staff) - a la Aragorn from Lord of the Rings (hah hah). I have a great vision in my mind that I need to capture on some paper and then think about attempting on some wood. I won't get too much more specific (at least for now) so when the eventual blob that looks like an octopus emerges I won't be culpable. Mark

Lou - single strip fore AND aft (my guiding principle was it had to look right - and it did to me). Yes, the fid is the little rectangular piece towards the bottom of the top mast. The fid is to lock the topmast into place once it is belayed up from below (it stops the mast from going back down into the seating hole). It is a little bit of trivia you can amaze people with at parties.... Your theme looks great - I just used what I had for the masts, which was a walnut dowel (I think the kit's were heavily warped). Mark

Lou, Just a slight nudge in something that is easy to do and I think produces some great results - focusing on the masts. You have done a great job using different wood colors to really make things pop. For my tops I have included the following (still very much in the rough): I put in a fid, a bolster (to alleviate the ratline sharp angle as it goes over the top) and then some strips to allow air between the mast and the ratlines to keeps things dry. Very easy and straight forward and allows continuation of the contrasts you have used so well on the main hull. Your decision of course! mark

Thanks everyone, I am liking the new ship profile! By the way, I am taking recommendations for the figurehead. The actual one was not in the plans done by the British. Harold Hahn adopted a women holding a torch since the original name of the ship was 'Brilliant.' This leaves things wide open. I want to come up with an original concept / design and do not feel compelled to do a copy of his beautiful creation (plus I do not want to have to compare my creation directly with his!). I am taking all suggestions into the mix (and cannot be held responsible for my attempt at the chosen theme - hah, hah). This is the only unknown portion of the build left. - Mark

Finally on the other side of that rudder. This whole assembly was a whole lot more than I ever thought it was going to be. I will never look at a rudder the same way again! I am pretty proud of the result - kids actually looked up from their IPODS when I went to show them so I will take that as a compliment. At least the three year old was audibly impressed. I can actually think of buttoning up that berth deck now (once I get the tiller arm rigged in, well, once I make the blocks so I can rig the tiller arm in....). Oh well, Here is to the Victories of Today! Mark

Things you never learn growing up...... I never knew you can buy sewing pins with different sized pin heads! I have been almost stopped on the Druid trying to figure out how to produce all those bolt heads required. I tried a number of things without much success. Finally I just picked up my (almost worn out, threadbare) Hahn book and re-read the Druid chapter. Low and behold, he mentions using pins (as well as touching up the blackened brass with paint). I quickly took the pins I had and knew the head was oversized and not right. The next day I stopped by the local sewing shop and was amazed by the wall of pins. They were sorted by type, metal content and finally - HEAD SIZE! Am I the only one to not know this? I had hoped for brass but after a certain size the only available was nickel plated steel. I hoped it would blacken. I had brought some sample brass strapping and figure out the size 8 head was the correct size. So for $3.50 I had 350 pins. When I got home I plunked one in the blackening solution and it quickly turned black - success! In just an hour or so I had the rudder all bolted in. The next picture is fuzzy but it shows progress where before there was none: All the touching and pushing to get the bolts into their pre-drilled holes (with super-glue) defintely required some touch up (as previously talked about). I used some flat black paint and it looked as good as new. Now that I am over that mental hurdle, this weekend the job is to get the rudder totally mounted to the hull. mark

Thanks John and Daniel, I always appreciate the feedback. If this helps, Daniel, that is great. I just know the unknown has always held me back from progress and as I finally delve in (with the help of enthusiasts locally or sites such as this one) the tasks are not as hard as I anticipated. The rudder was one of these things - wood, chemicals and metal all in one package. Here is hoping the next post will show the rudder complete and hanging! Mark

With the time available I am slowly progressing forward. An inventory of my brass supply showed I had insufficient stock for all the work I needed to do (especially when I think about scrap!). I had previously bought it pre-cut but opted to take the dive this time and buy it as a sheet and cut it as needed: Wasn't that bad to score and snap off the strips I need. I will save a little $$ with this and feel my skills have advanced a little. Previously when I worked with the cylinder brass I always inserted the matching rod to hold the tube in place against the strapping. Well, the next two times with silver solder the rod was welded in place as well as the cylinder. As I pondered the imponderables the obvious came to me: do not cut the cylinder to shape until after it is affixed to the strapping: Sample fittings showed that the hull side hinge needed to be offset from the hull more than what the base strapping allowed, so another piece of brass was added. The strapping was bent to hold the new piece firm during heating and soldering, then bent afterwards back to shape. Worked like a charm. With the new pieces attached to their rudder join part, this was put against the hull and the required attachment point was identified. I did mark where the strapping layed against the hull and once again chiseled out that area for added strength and accurate positioning. I decided to add the wood under the straps where the planking was absent. The final shot is the bottom two rudder hinges roughed in. I need to do the same to the top hinges and then make the holes for the faux bolts. I can say the rudder is suspended on its own. It can move freely and is centered, so I am happy with the progress. Keeping moving forward, Mark

Thanks Bob and John, I agree with the scratch comment, but when handed a free kit of a subject I don't think I would have ever have considered (don't see too many 1940+ cargo vessels in MSW) you have to stop and scratch your head for the possibility. Lots of bashing currently going on in my workshop. The Scout is a nice looking ship, nothing against that, I just always liked the look of the armed liberty ship and what they were able to do in WWII. On basic looks they look close. I did spend quite a few hours today but I believe have managed to create a set of plans for the missing pieces that should be real close to the original profiles. Only way to prove it is to cut some wood, but that will be on hold for a little time. Mark

An oldie but goodie. Originally designed for R/C but I intent to build it as a static display (at least for now). With my other builds on the dock this is currently a mental exercise to recreate those pieces that have gone awol - but maybe I get ahead of myself. As with a lot of my current kits, they were 'gifts' from associates that knew I dabbled in these things. Usually started with the best of intentions, they were cast adrift for one reason or another and finally donated to me instead of thrown away (thank goodness for that). In this case this beautiful ship was started by someone's grandfather who passed away. Unfortunately a good chunk of the work he had done had gone missing. Fortunately, he had just started so this primarily consisted of the internal hull bulkhead components. This is not a standard size ship, and the bulkheads are not standard as I have previously known them. I have the baseplate shown below, just missing the outside pieces. In previous years I had been in dialogue with another kit owner (though non-builder) who kindly offered to trace their pieces. This was accomplished but was definitely 'in the rough' and not builder ready. So my current activity is to define a legitimate definition of these bulkhead pieces that could be used to build the kit. Below right is the traced components, below left is my current efforts. From the plans I have the top dimensions (though I have found contrary to drawn dtails, they include the addition of plank widths), and the bottom dimensions from the base plate. My first quandry is the size of the pieces traced and provided to me essentially lead me to believe the false deck will need to be shaved, over a 1/4 inch in some places. I am currently inclined to believe the false deck(s) and modify the tracings so they gracefully go from the base plate to the deck. My plans do not include body lines. Anybody out there have any experience with this kit? My wife somewhat recoiled in horror at it's size, but it is different. The wood has not aged well and most of it will be replaced with basswood going forward. There is an accessories kit for all the winches and stuff but it goes for BIG $$'s on ebay when they show up so those items will be scratch built. I may look at what the differences are between this and a liberty ship (like the Jeremiah O'Brian) and maybe go in that direction. I don't know, at the start the sky is the limit. Like I said at the start, currently working at the drafting to define the missing pieces. mark

Thanks Mij, John and Lou. I am hoping you won't have to follow too long, because the build has been too long! First quarter 2014. Not a drop in the bucket but I believe it is achievable. It is good to be over a big hump, but the next one is right ahead. Mark

Still working along but good to see some progress. All I have left on this rudder is all the scale nails to hold the strapping on - hopefully tonight. The top three bands and the tiller arm bands are from wrapped paper. These areas are not seen on the finished ship so I thought it a great place to try out the technique. Worked very well and I will add to my options in the future. I added a faux end post on the stern of the rudder. The actual tiller arm was cut down to a more manageable square and inserted into a hole that was initially drilled then squared off. You can't tell. The backup up tiller hole had to be more lifelike but after methodical progress turned out great. The true test is to try out the resultant work in the space and see if everything lines up. Success. I love it when a plan comes together. I need to power through those scale nails. I had no idea how much effort and beauty rudders have. Chemistry, metallurgy, shaping, joinery... If you can do a successful rudder you can do an entire ship. Mark

What, no cup holders? That certainly was quick. Looks great makes everything tidy. Mark

A lot of good ideas. I usually go straight for the most difficult and these pretty straight forward ideas are great for working through the (very thin) deck material. Thank you one and all.

Oh, don't be surprised if you are looking to use the PoB plans for the rigging, the amount and type of pinrails will be significantly changed. On my Lady Anne I had to significantly alter my deck tie downs to use them. mark

Lou, You have to include a binnacle! I wouldn't leave home without one (heard that in a commercial one day). The tiller will be belayed to the bulwarks and the steersman probably not standing right in front of it so I think you have room. As always, as captain you make the call. But I throw my hat into the get'r done column. BTW: Beautiful work as usual. You really knocked it out of the park with that tiller arm. Mark