kruginmi
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Everything posted by kruginmi
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Hey Eamonn, Define 'Novice.' I am looking at the Ballahoo and it might be your first proper wood build but the experience and care you bring to sure puts you above a novice. I actually think that anyone that actually finishes planking a hull automatically graduates to 'Been there, done that' classification. This is my first scratch so I am right in there with you what ever the classification - hah, hah. After four hours in the front flower beds (winter is officially over in Michigan) I needed to do something that showed I was finally off that gun deck. So...the gammoning jumped out, which included the necessary cleats: I didn't know where the cleats should be positioned and did some over thinking for awhile. Finally I grabbed the line I intended to use and loosely put in the gammoning which took less than 10 minutes. After insuring the lines were clearing all the headwork and looked right I lightly marked a line on the bowsprit where the cleats should fall. Pull off the gammoning and make some cleats. I did keep the cleats parallel with the bowsprit and equal spaced, which required the front face of the lower cleats to have a slight angle. I had hoped for 8 frappings (I believe they are called) and it worked out perfectly with the gammoning hole drilled out so many years ago. I might eventually replace this but there is no rush since this can be done anytime with full access. Stay Building My Friends, Mark P.S. Happy Easter
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Everything is fair game in the hobby of modeling! You always view things with a slightly different eye around the house. Great use of the brush for a great recovery. Probably ended up being better than the original. Mark
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Wow, board looks pretty active right now. Lots of great work going on all over the forums. Thanks for everyone checking in. To finish off the gundeck for this go around I needed the simplified windlass on the posts. This afternoon I decided to dig in and was done in less than an hour. I used boxed wood, chucked it up on my lathe and pretty much free handed it to the dimensions required: Once sanded and cut off, I used some brass rod and bent up the handles pretty quick. To allow me to install this I did make the handles in two pieces - one that is most of the length, and one that just goes in the opposite drum. Blacken the brass, a little bit of super glue and it is done: I am moving to the forecastle. Stay Building My Friends, Mark
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I really like the look and that new figurehead is fantastic. I really like that type of cutaway, really draws the viewer in (novice or expert). I know what you mean about the dust. I do the best I can but it is really a losing battle at most times. I try not to look down into the spaces too often to not get too depressed! Mark
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Another 8 hours in the books (time flies when you are having fun). I did a lot of touch up, the secret: The spindle sander provided the sawdust. I would put some glue on my finger, use the mini-trowel to push it into the offending space, and then rub sawdust over everything. After a few minutes I used a scraper to remove a majority of the overflow and once dry sandpaper to finalize. Worked like a charm. The majority of the time was on those 90 eyebolts and 40 rings, and the assorted fitting, drilling, blackening, resetting (and on the floor finding the errant drops). I am pleased with the result. Just have one more thing to button up this gun deck and move to the forecastle. I have also actually fitted the bowsprit. To set the gammoning cleats I thought the easiest was to have it solid on the hull so visually everything would be in alignment. Stay building my friends, Mark
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Thanks Greg and Michael and all the likes / looks. I appreciate them, this build has been a long time in coming! With spring break being over with all the trips / visits / teenage angst I can finally get back to work. First on the list was the 90 eyebolts and 40 rings (18 gunports, 5 eyebolts per, 3 rings per). Just pull up a cozy chair, have a good magnet nearby to find all those AWOL pieces and a mere 3 hours later they were done: Since I needed to blacken them, it was a natural to finally get all those hinges done to allow everything to blacken in one bunch. I sliver soldered a thin rod onto a cut rectangular piece of brass then super glued this along with another small piece of brass to achieve the look I wanted. These were also used for the rear lockers. Then everything had a coat of gel coating. I did make this job easier when I suddenly realized I didn't need hinges on both sides of the door! Then of course you have the obligatory draft install to check out the final look: Another notch in the complete column. Now for some clean-up, the addition of a small windlass, affix all that cannon tackle and I will declare the gun deck complete. Maybe by tomorrow night? Stay Building My Friends, Mark
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As one who has 10+ years on my current build (calendar time, not work time) I totally understand. The great part is that the build is always waiting. A very nice Titon, look forward to seeing the progress. Stay building my friends, Mark
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Thanks Eamonn for the kind words. I am trying to make this the year of finishing things and I have been laser sighted on the Druid. The Lady Anne is always at arms length (put in ordinary) and is definitely next on the list (with hope to also finish prior to the end of the year). I am actually asked by the Admiral how the progress is going so that is a good thing. I have been keeping track of time spent (and wood used) and am constantly amazed at how the numbers keep climbing up. With continued focus I am hoping to complete in the June time frame.... Stay building my friend, Mark
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Looking great Joe! Just returned from the Chicago Science and Industry Museum and the ship in the central aisle of the ship modeling area is the Prince. This is a half open / framework exposed, half fully planked model. I took a look at the forward ports and the maker (didn't record his name) did place a cannon there but, like you said, it was obvious it could never be fired with out significant deck re-arrangement! That sure is a splendid ship to model though. Clean lines and great detail. Stay Modeling My Friend, Mark
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For a second go I used the shank of a drill bit to achieve around a 50% reduction in ring size for the eyebolts affixed to the hull. The hanging ring I kept at the 4P nail size. This achieves the look I had in my mind. I now have to find my Zen, a comfortable spot and produce 90+ of the eyebolts. Then after cleaning and blackening I will put them aside until the gun deck is totally gel coated before gluing them in using CYA glue. I hope this ends up being this weekend! Stay Building, My Friends, Mark
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Nils, I am right with you in all you say. I tell people my aim is better than folk art (no slam against folk art) but primarily it is Krug quality. A site very much like this (over 10 years ago) had me stretch and decide I could undertake the Druid and I love adding all the individual features. I also enjoy showing my kids that I am interacting with people all over the world (such as Germany). Rigging is a stretch for another build (hah hah). You find a subject that gives the motivation to keep at it. Pegasus is a wonderful ship and you are doing it more than justice. Stay building, my friend. Mark
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Now that ship has a little bit more than just some bark! Nice going Nils.
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Thanks everyone for looking, with your motivation I am almost buttoning this gun deck up! One of the last things is to affix the cannon tackle (port tackle eybolts on top, breeching ringbolts on bottom each side of cannon). For my prototype I used 28 gauge wire and a 4p nail. It looks to me I need to go with a smaller nail. Given that their will be no cannon I am also leaning towards having no breaching ring hanging off the ringbolt for a cleaner look (the right side of the pic). Any comments? -mark
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Thanks Nils, Ed, Jay and Russ for the compliments. Jay - yes those slots are for the channels. Almost a whoops there since I had almost glued in the molding over them before almost by chance remembering I needed to keep that clear. The actual channels are roughed in and off to the side currently. Now for the mast partners. I had never really thought these through but had 'assumed' the normal fashion a ring and slip it over the mast and rest on the deck. As I went over what had to be done I had one of those ah-ha moments where I realized the process was almost as complicated as the 'real' process. Why not? (bashing / scratch is so liberating - hah, hah). First obstacle was that the deck hole was currently a snug fit for the mast and had to be enlarged, but by how much? I affixed four 1/32" pieces to the mast and measured the resultant opening. Also VERY important to trace the deck profile onto the mast since the partners are not at 90 degree angle to the mast. This was then transferred to the deck and the hole suitably enlarged. I measured the outside circumference of the new hole to define a uniform wedge size. Then using some wood from the scrap pile (I believe 1/8") I cut out that width and using a jig cut the tail down to the target 1/32". The back of the wedge was sanded to the profile of the mast and the edges hand cut to the necessary bevel. Each wedge had to be checked against the deck profile (drawn onto the mast) to insure the correct slant was added to the deck mating section. Once all the wedges were attached there was point sanding to smooth / round things out. I should note that I periodically checked the fit against the deck as the wedges were attached. I still have some more refining to do but it works out to around an hour per mast partner. Still have the main and foremast to do, hopefully today. -mark
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Welcome and good luck Bob. If your pegboard is any indication you are well equipped and organized! Slow and steady.... -mark
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I really like the idea of the 'steal' for a slightly mismatched set of cannon. I keep thinking how to add those little touches that make the model your own for my own builds. Keep having fun. -mark
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Thanks for all the likes! 7 hours and 180 pieces of wood (and counting) the bulkheads are pretty close to done. Still need the hinges and door knobs to make the doors pop and the gel coating will help accentuate the paneling. I also will add some pieces on the fore and aft panel between the beams to clean up the top edge and provide some added strength to keep it from shifting in the future. With the deck extension the British added these bulkheads are pretty far under the quarterdeck lip. I will keep a gap in the floor planking for some glimpses. Now on to the mast partners..... -mark
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On to the bulkheads! The windows ended up being 66 different pieces of wood, it will be interesting to see how many pieces are used for these 3 panels. The approach for the 3 panels (2 cross ship, one bow and aft connecting) was to use a 3 ply sandwich of 1/32" basswood, used on other builds in this forum. The middle piece is a solid piece of wood with the 2 other being trim pieces added to give the look of fancier paneling. The initial form was defined through the use of cereal box cardboard. If any one needs that detail let me know, but needless to say it took around 3-4 iterations before I was satisfied (around a full size Cheerio box - hah, hah). Once I was satisfied with the fit I transferred to the basswood and cut out: The panels were cut to fit under a defined deck beam, flush with the rear edge. You can see in the above photo the Legos used to help hold things up (another great idea from this forum). I then defined the doorway locations which required more effort than I thought. The original location looked great but upon trying the panel in location was obvious had an issue with the location of the stairs to the berth deck. I moved them farther out but then realized the door locations had to be equivalent on the aft bulkhead for the connecting partition to work and, of course, they were now too far out. So....third time the charm and I got to an acceptable location: The connecting panel was added and the trim work to allow them to connect. I added some preliminary trim pieces to check out the pattern I sought after, but it is still incomplete. The doors will not have windows added to them. A final check required before the push to complete the panels was to add the other quarterdeck beams. I love it when a plan comes together: Tonight the plan is to complete the trim pieces on all three panels, add solid 3/32" pieces of wood between the beams on the fore and aft piece for strength and a more finished look. The metalwork for the hinges and door knobs will be this weekend. Then the pieces get stored away until the cannon carriage bolts are affixed. Not too much work, but a tremendous change in visual appeal. -mark
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Hi Joe, just checking in - quite a nice build you have going there. Looks very clean and the colors really make the result pop. Well done! - mark
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Thanks David, For all the sharp pointy tools around here, I will save the belts for post modeling activities! Those windows were just something that has been on the short list for awhile and for whatever reason I had been hesitant to start them. Now that they are in the rear window (hah, hah) I am beginning the bulkheads for the captains cabin. My goal is to finish up the gun deck within two weeks (not including the capstan). BTW: This means no cannon. For this model I had always envisioned only including the things that were permanently attached to the hull. The emphasis had always been on the hull as a whole (thus the mono-color with a little black metalwork). I am thinking about putting a single cannon and an anchor on the base nameplate (off ship). I can't say I have seen too many examples of this but I have thought about this a lot. Mark
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After a few more hours in the shop I managed to get the remaining windows complete and sanded to shape. Even with all the templates there still was a few minor gaps that bugged me. After looking at the stern closely I realized the key was to remove the external planking between the windows and replace with some slightly larger to cover the initial window frames. Didn't take too much time to make this change. I still have not applied the gel coat to the new pieces which will make the finish much more uniform. I did clean up the internal edges with some very thin molding pieces (though it will invisible to view). -mark
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Rick, You sure are off to a very solid start. I sure envy your location for research and access but like building the Victory, Portsmouth is on my bucket list. Keep the pics coming! Mark
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There is a saying when I was in the Army that no plan survives first contact and that was certainly true with the stern windows. Being flexible and open to modifying your approach (without becoming overly exasperated) is an important part of this hobby - a lesson well learned over and over for me! The stern windows are nothing but angles (and nothing 90 degrees). To start I cut 1/16 inch templates, slowly cutting away as I custom formed them to the necessary openings. Note: the frames also angle inwards. Once these were made I could make the actual frames off ship (a good thing): 1. I glued down scrap straight wood pieces to capture the outline. 2. The template was taken out 3. The outline of the window was measured out and glued together 4. The horizontal cross members were added and glued 5. The vertical cross members were added and glued 6. Sand the top face totally flat with a sanding block 6. A razor blade was used to remove the outside forms 7. A razor blade was used to gently remove the window 8. The back of the window was sanded flat and the joins cleaned up 9. Through trial and error, the frames were gently sanded on their sides to fit into the window opening. 10. With a good fiction fit I put the original template against the outside window to help push into place Stand back and breathe. Repeat four more times. Each time I have done this the results have been better. The main issue I had was that I had originally intended to mortise and tenon all the frame pieces for all the frame pieces. I tried and tried some more. With all the angles I just wasn't successful in producing an end result that was tight and looked right. I finally had one of those moments when I stepped back and opted to try just using butt joints. Given the outside form I was able to really hold the frame and apply outside pressure so this decision paid off. Especially given that the final window was protected and affixed on all four sides I am okay with this change. -mark
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With some time back on the ship I decided to tackle the manger. This was not on the plans but something I have thought about adding for a awhile (plan bashing?). This area is obscured but still can be seen if you are triple jointed (hah, hah). I designed this on the fly and probably ended up with about two and a half hours total. I had several starts and stops but relaxed and finally evolved to a solution that I liked. This is the view from the middle gun deck and what will be visible from the finished viewpoint. For background, these temporary walls contain the slime and mud brought up on the anchor cables. Given the location and look it was a natural place for any animals (eg pigs, cattle) brought on board to be penned up - thus the name manger. -mark
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