kruginmi

Great Job!  I love the look.  And it only took four build pages to do!  (hah hah)
 
mark

And the saga continues....
 
Next up is to cut the 'square' holes for the top mast shrouds to come through the top.  Cutting a square hole in basswood is not straight forward.  The wood is softer so keeping crisp edges is harder.  It is possible though with a little 'trickery.'  
 
Instead of drilling out and then hacking away praying for a good result, I outline where the squares need to be and use my sled on the table saw to cut out three sides of the square.  I then cut out a replacement piece for the missing side and slide into place.  I have the wire that will be used for the shrouds so used this as a spacer.  
 

 
Then with a little sanding everything ends up ship shape and perfect.  Square internal holes in basswood.
 

 
You might also noticed I added some trunnels through the top into the trestle trees to accurately locate the top each time I put it on.  It is also important before drilling the holes for the blocks under the top that you make sure you know where the supports are!  A little progress when possible.
 
Mark

Love to see the creative process.  I can only think of what the sausages I call my fingers would do on a similar project.  A whole different set of problems and solutions.
 
Keep the pics coming!
Mark

As the planning starts, so does the log.  With my admiralty hull finally back home after a month road trip around town I am more convinced than ever that a cross section is needed.  With a variety of questions being consistently asked about the layout of the internals and how did this or that happen, the cross section would be perfect.
 

 
Being a cross section it will fit on the mantle but also bring home the resultant size of the full ship with the full main mast being present.
 
The first question is where to define the cut lines.  After looking at the plans I am looking at the following layout (frames 18-27):
 

 
Being a Hahn plan, there are no knees defined (not seen at all in the full model).  In this case they will be seen so I will add those in.  I am a little lucky in that this is an American built cargo ship purchased and converted by the British.  So......I do not necessarily have to follow exact British standards of the time.  I am pretty sure I will put in at least one futtock rider.
 
I am thinking of fully planking the outer hull inside and out both sides, but then one half of the inner hull decks will be left with all floor beams exposed.  The fully deck planked side will be fit out with ballast, water and food casks, cannon (kids happy about that) with associated tools and probably a hammock or two.
 
The rigging will be that which is possible.  I am thinking about having sails (lower one furled).  I have picked up the masting plans for the Brilliant / Druid in the possession of the Smithsonian.  That is a big help.  Lots of scratching of the head on tie down positions with the added quarterdeck extension.
 
Now to start on the frames.  I will not use the short cut frames jig provided but will go with more of wood saving futtock by futtock method (modified) - still using the inverted building stand / jig.
 
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark

And the saga continues....
 
Next up is to cut the 'square' holes for the top mast shrouds to come through the top.  Cutting a square hole in basswood is not straight forward.  The wood is softer so keeping crisp edges is harder.  It is possible though with a little 'trickery.'  
 
Instead of drilling out and then hacking away praying for a good result, I outline where the squares need to be and use my sled on the table saw to cut out three sides of the square.  I then cut out a replacement piece for the missing side and slide into place.  I have the wire that will be used for the shrouds so used this as a spacer.  
 

 
Then with a little sanding everything ends up ship shape and perfect.  Square internal holes in basswood.
 

 
You might also noticed I added some trunnels through the top into the trestle trees to accurately locate the top each time I put it on.  It is also important before drilling the holes for the blocks under the top that you make sure you know where the supports are!  A little progress when possible.
 
Mark

Thanks everyone, with the snow falling outside I had a bit of time in the workshop to add the railing:
 

 
I used bamboo skewers for the upright posts and a piece of boxwood available for the railing itself.  The belaying pins were from my spares box.  Just need to drill some holes for the shrouds and necessary blocks (also for the stay - crows feet - that will remain empty).
 
As a side note, the cheek blocks didn't quite look right to me so I removed them, put them higher and thinned them out.
 
Mark

Love to see the creative process.  I can only think of what the sausages I call my fingers would do on a similar project.  A whole different set of problems and solutions.
 
Keep the pics coming!
Mark

Hi Mark
 
That's a really clever workaround you've got there. Nice!
 
I'll lock that one away in my memory banks for later.
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

Love to see the creative process.  I can only think of what the sausages I call my fingers would do on a similar project.  A whole different set of problems and solutions.
 
Keep the pics coming!
Mark

And the saga continues....
 
Next up is to cut the 'square' holes for the top mast shrouds to come through the top.  Cutting a square hole in basswood is not straight forward.  The wood is softer so keeping crisp edges is harder.  It is possible though with a little 'trickery.'  
 
Instead of drilling out and then hacking away praying for a good result, I outline where the squares need to be and use my sled on the table saw to cut out three sides of the square.  I then cut out a replacement piece for the missing side and slide into place.  I have the wire that will be used for the shrouds so used this as a spacer.  
 

 
Then with a little sanding everything ends up ship shape and perfect.  Square internal holes in basswood.
 

 
You might also noticed I added some trunnels through the top into the trestle trees to accurately locate the top each time I put it on.  It is also important before drilling the holes for the blocks under the top that you make sure you know where the supports are!  A little progress when possible.
 
Mark

Great job Mike.  You are finding your Zen and working each port as its own project and it shows.  A full hull certainly gives you lots of practice on most jobs.
 
At least the Cromwell (like Druid) is 1/48th and this detail as achievable (at least for me - hah, hah).
 
Keep it up,
Mark

Great job Mike.  You are finding your Zen and working each port as its own project and it shows.  A full hull certainly gives you lots of practice on most jobs.
 
At least the Cromwell (like Druid) is 1/48th and this detail as achievable (at least for me - hah, hah).
 
Keep it up,
Mark

Hi Ben, Mark and Bob 
Gees, no pressure with the details, hey? LOL. Actually, I'd love to make it look as convincing as possible, but I'm struggling to find some good photos of these stern garages on yachts. If all else fails, we could always tell the skipper to say 'open sesame'!!!
 
Seriously though, many thanks for all of your comments and feedback.
 
Many thanks
 
Patrick

Thanks Mark! Sometimes, I think I have a sausage brain as well as sausage fingers, because neither of them talk to each other...
 
All the best
 
Patrick

Love to see the creative process.  I can only think of what the sausages I call my fingers would do on a similar project.  A whole different set of problems and solutions.
 
Keep the pics coming!
Mark

Great job Mike.  You are finding your Zen and working each port as its own project and it shows.  A full hull certainly gives you lots of practice on most jobs.
 
At least the Cromwell (like Druid) is 1/48th and this detail as achievable (at least for me - hah, hah).
 
Keep it up,
Mark

And the saga continues....
 
Next up is to cut the 'square' holes for the top mast shrouds to come through the top.  Cutting a square hole in basswood is not straight forward.  The wood is softer so keeping crisp edges is harder.  It is possible though with a little 'trickery.'  
 
Instead of drilling out and then hacking away praying for a good result, I outline where the squares need to be and use my sled on the table saw to cut out three sides of the square.  I then cut out a replacement piece for the missing side and slide into place.  I have the wire that will be used for the shrouds so used this as a spacer.  
 

 
Then with a little sanding everything ends up ship shape and perfect.  Square internal holes in basswood.
 

 
You might also noticed I added some trunnels through the top into the trestle trees to accurately locate the top each time I put it on.  It is also important before drilling the holes for the blocks under the top that you make sure you know where the supports are!  A little progress when possible.
 
Mark

Thanks everyone.  I never knew I would be spending this much time on the masts.  Lots of learning.
 
Going through my notes and looking forward I realized I had not accounted for the jeer slings yet.  I had already put on the drying strakes so I had to do some modifications to the as completed mast head.  I came up with a solution that I believe is workable:
 

 
The last (I think) requirement for the main mast itself was the iron hoops for the woolings.  I used pretty much the same method as I did for the mast head.  I did notice that as you wrap them around the mast sometimes they would not follow an even course, opting for climbing or descending the mast.  To avoid this I first wrapped painters tape around the mast at the point the hoops are required.  Once triple checked, the paper mast band was added pushed up against the tape.
 

 
It didn't take too long to get the rest of the hoops into place:
 

 
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark

Moving up the mast I now tackled the junction between the topmast and topgallant mast:
 

 
For a different method (stronger) I decided to turn the topmast portion in the cap circular for an integrated tenon.  As before I glued a faux cap over this for the mirage to work.  This is probably my preferred way for strength over using a dowel, but the flip side is there is no adjustment - you have to get it right the first time.  With a dowel you get an alignment step possible.
 
The trestle trees and cap were of boxwood since the size is getting pretty small.
 

 
I also have cut out the initial template for the main top.  Putting it all together:
 

 
Put some more details on those tops (along with some sheaves) and this will actually look like a mast!
 
Mark

Thanks everyone, with the snow falling outside I had a bit of time in the workshop to add the railing:
 

 
I used bamboo skewers for the upright posts and a piece of boxwood available for the railing itself.  The belaying pins were from my spares box.  Just need to drill some holes for the shrouds and necessary blocks (also for the stay - crows feet - that will remain empty).
 
As a side note, the cheek blocks didn't quite look right to me so I removed them, put them higher and thinned them out.
 
Mark

Hi,
 
Thank you Mark, but I found the Magnus hitch in my Dictionary of Knots. 
This week has been a week of tying rat lines and studying the running rigging.
 
Walter 
 

 

 

 

 
 
 

Thanks everyone, with the snow falling outside I had a bit of time in the workshop to add the railing:
 

 
I used bamboo skewers for the upright posts and a piece of boxwood available for the railing itself.  The belaying pins were from my spares box.  Just need to drill some holes for the shrouds and necessary blocks (also for the stay - crows feet - that will remain empty).
 
As a side note, the cheek blocks didn't quite look right to me so I removed them, put them higher and thinned them out.
 
Mark

Thanks everyone, with the snow falling outside I had a bit of time in the workshop to add the railing:
 

 
I used bamboo skewers for the upright posts and a piece of boxwood available for the railing itself.  The belaying pins were from my spares box.  Just need to drill some holes for the shrouds and necessary blocks (also for the stay - crows feet - that will remain empty).
 
As a side note, the cheek blocks didn't quite look right to me so I removed them, put them higher and thinned them out.
 
Mark

Thanks everyone, with the snow falling outside I had a bit of time in the workshop to add the railing:
 

 
I used bamboo skewers for the upright posts and a piece of boxwood available for the railing itself.  The belaying pins were from my spares box.  Just need to drill some holes for the shrouds and necessary blocks (also for the stay - crows feet - that will remain empty).
 
As a side note, the cheek blocks didn't quite look right to me so I removed them, put them higher and thinned them out.
 
Mark

Thanks everyone, with the snow falling outside I had a bit of time in the workshop to add the railing:
 

 
I used bamboo skewers for the upright posts and a piece of boxwood available for the railing itself.  The belaying pins were from my spares box.  Just need to drill some holes for the shrouds and necessary blocks (also for the stay - crows feet - that will remain empty).
 
As a side note, the cheek blocks didn't quite look right to me so I removed them, put them higher and thinned them out.
 
Mark