kruginmi
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kruginmi got a reaction from ggrieco in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Moving up the mast I now tackled the junction between the topmast and topgallant mast:
For a different method (stronger) I decided to turn the topmast portion in the cap circular for an integrated tenon. As before I glued a faux cap over this for the mirage to work. This is probably my preferred way for strength over using a dowel, but the flip side is there is no adjustment - you have to get it right the first time. With a dowel you get an alignment step possible.
The trestle trees and cap were of boxwood since the size is getting pretty small.
I also have cut out the initial template for the main top. Putting it all together:
Put some more details on those tops (along with some sheaves) and this will actually look like a mast!
Mark
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kruginmi reacted to dvm27 in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Turn it into a Grandfather's clock case and your wife will be mollified!
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kruginmi reacted to dgbot in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Coming along nicely Mark. I can sympathize about rigging. To many lines and blocks and where they go is a brain buster.
David B
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kruginmi got a reaction from egkb in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Moving up the mast I now tackled the junction between the topmast and topgallant mast:
For a different method (stronger) I decided to turn the topmast portion in the cap circular for an integrated tenon. As before I glued a faux cap over this for the mirage to work. This is probably my preferred way for strength over using a dowel, but the flip side is there is no adjustment - you have to get it right the first time. With a dowel you get an alignment step possible.
The trestle trees and cap were of boxwood since the size is getting pretty small.
I also have cut out the initial template for the main top. Putting it all together:
Put some more details on those tops (along with some sheaves) and this will actually look like a mast!
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from dgbot in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Thanks all.
This hits the definition of what is the 'right' way. In my sense, that could be different from person to person. Brilliant? I don't know about that, some would probably say a lost opportunity. However, the old saying "I am the captain" rules all. I don't think the over all effect would have been any better. Again, lots of details to accomplish like softening the hard edges as well as battens and such.
I think I have become more comfortable in this hobby, particularly after finishing the full Druid. With the Druid-X I am having a lot of fun and not 'hanging on' too tight. Should I say I am even considering ordering the blocks for the rigging? The understanding of the rigging was the big mountain for me.
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from captainbob in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Moving up the mast I now tackled the junction between the topmast and topgallant mast:
For a different method (stronger) I decided to turn the topmast portion in the cap circular for an integrated tenon. As before I glued a faux cap over this for the mirage to work. This is probably my preferred way for strength over using a dowel, but the flip side is there is no adjustment - you have to get it right the first time. With a dowel you get an alignment step possible.
The trestle trees and cap were of boxwood since the size is getting pretty small.
I also have cut out the initial template for the main top. Putting it all together:
Put some more details on those tops (along with some sheaves) and this will actually look like a mast!
Mark
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kruginmi reacted to dvm27 in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Lovely work, Mark. That's going to be one crazy looking case when finished.
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kruginmi got a reaction from dgbot in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Moving up the mast I now tackled the junction between the topmast and topgallant mast:
For a different method (stronger) I decided to turn the topmast portion in the cap circular for an integrated tenon. As before I glued a faux cap over this for the mirage to work. This is probably my preferred way for strength over using a dowel, but the flip side is there is no adjustment - you have to get it right the first time. With a dowel you get an alignment step possible.
The trestle trees and cap were of boxwood since the size is getting pretty small.
I also have cut out the initial template for the main top. Putting it all together:
Put some more details on those tops (along with some sheaves) and this will actually look like a mast!
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from tadheus in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Moving up the mast I now tackled the junction between the topmast and topgallant mast:
For a different method (stronger) I decided to turn the topmast portion in the cap circular for an integrated tenon. As before I glued a faux cap over this for the mirage to work. This is probably my preferred way for strength over using a dowel, but the flip side is there is no adjustment - you have to get it right the first time. With a dowel you get an alignment step possible.
The trestle trees and cap were of boxwood since the size is getting pretty small.
I also have cut out the initial template for the main top. Putting it all together:
Put some more details on those tops (along with some sheaves) and this will actually look like a mast!
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from Canute in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Moving up the mast I now tackled the junction between the topmast and topgallant mast:
For a different method (stronger) I decided to turn the topmast portion in the cap circular for an integrated tenon. As before I glued a faux cap over this for the mirage to work. This is probably my preferred way for strength over using a dowel, but the flip side is there is no adjustment - you have to get it right the first time. With a dowel you get an alignment step possible.
The trestle trees and cap were of boxwood since the size is getting pretty small.
I also have cut out the initial template for the main top. Putting it all together:
Put some more details on those tops (along with some sheaves) and this will actually look like a mast!
Mark
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kruginmi reacted to Dimitris71 in Amerigo Vespucci by Dimitris71 - Mantua - 1:100 scale
And some more progress and photos of the bowsprit...
Cheers
Dimitris
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kruginmi got a reaction from mtaylor in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Moving up the mast I now tackled the junction between the topmast and topgallant mast:
For a different method (stronger) I decided to turn the topmast portion in the cap circular for an integrated tenon. As before I glued a faux cap over this for the mirage to work. This is probably my preferred way for strength over using a dowel, but the flip side is there is no adjustment - you have to get it right the first time. With a dowel you get an alignment step possible.
The trestle trees and cap were of boxwood since the size is getting pretty small.
I also have cut out the initial template for the main top. Putting it all together:
Put some more details on those tops (along with some sheaves) and this will actually look like a mast!
Mark
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kruginmi reacted to Omega1234 in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Coming along nicely, Mark!
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kruginmi got a reaction from Captain Poison in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Moving up the mast I now tackled the junction between the topmast and topgallant mast:
For a different method (stronger) I decided to turn the topmast portion in the cap circular for an integrated tenon. As before I glued a faux cap over this for the mirage to work. This is probably my preferred way for strength over using a dowel, but the flip side is there is no adjustment - you have to get it right the first time. With a dowel you get an alignment step possible.
The trestle trees and cap were of boxwood since the size is getting pretty small.
I also have cut out the initial template for the main top. Putting it all together:
Put some more details on those tops (along with some sheaves) and this will actually look like a mast!
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from Canute in HMS Victory by kruginmi (2x) - Airfix - 1:180 - PLASTIC
Thomas,
Those would be mighty small cannon! I am not sure how much exchanging the supplied cannons with brass would help but each person is their own captain. I would also try some of the newer brass paints to see the effect you can get with the provided plastic. I am 'assuming' you would also replace the gun carriages, the table saw is definitely out for that.
Can you provide some more description / thoughts of what you are thinking for the whole build?
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from ScottRC in HMS Victory by kruginmi (2x) - Airfix - 1:180 - PLASTIC
BTW: My son is focused on school and on swimming right now. As you can see the build is somewhat on hold. Still hopeful for sometime this year to re-ignite it...... Mark
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kruginmi reacted to John Allen in HMS Victory by John Allen - Mamoli - Scale 1:90 - 5th build
Thanks Grant
Actually looking forward to the rigging it will be a nice challenge, do realize its not Rome and will not be built
in a day or 6 months???
Thanks again for your comments
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kruginmi reacted to John Allen in HMS Victory by John Allen - Mamoli - Scale 1:90 - 5th build
Thank Mark & Don
Your right about the hammocks when I quit flopping and decide to keep them batten is easy to cut and add rope as hammocks.
Thanks for the nice comments
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kruginmi got a reaction from docidle in HMS Victory by kruginmi (2x) - Airfix - 1:180 - PLASTIC
With my 9 year old son now having three models under his belt (two ships) with my help:
He asked what was next on the horizon. I was actually given an Airfix 1:180 HMS Victory model recently and I realized I now had two in stock. So.....we are going to do dual builds. The models are packaged differently but contain exactly the same kit components.
We are laying things out and mapping out our plan. I am planning to do this one out of the box with no 'improvements.' His model will be all him. It will be interesting to get back into painting. The paint in both boxes is quite old so I will buy new acrylics locally (as close as possible in color). He is the only kid so far (fifth of six) that has had any interest in models so I am doing whatever I can to fan the flames - how can you do wrong with the Victory?
Looking forward to spending the time together,
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from Chuck Seiler in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Thanks all.
This hits the definition of what is the 'right' way. In my sense, that could be different from person to person. Brilliant? I don't know about that, some would probably say a lost opportunity. However, the old saying "I am the captain" rules all. I don't think the over all effect would have been any better. Again, lots of details to accomplish like softening the hard edges as well as battens and such.
I think I have become more comfortable in this hobby, particularly after finishing the full Druid. With the Druid-X I am having a lot of fun and not 'hanging on' too tight. Should I say I am even considering ordering the blocks for the rigging? The understanding of the rigging was the big mountain for me.
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from Chuck Seiler in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
So after finally settling down on understanding the number and type of lines, I can move into the job of estimating what type of work I have in front of me with regards to blocks. Currently I am showing 132 blocks are needed for this cross section (wow). For the basic type (single and double) there are:
So you can see the actual ship had 12 varieties of these from 5" to 20". For the model on a first pass I am looking at cutting this down to 8 types from 1/8" to 3/8". So, for example, the 5, 6 and 7 inch single blocks are combined to the 1/8" scale block. The question now is whether or not I should combine more, to like three of each type. Feedback welcome.
For the rest of the blocks, the numbers are much smaller (besides the dead eyes):
There are one offs that I can think about actually making without going a little crazy. Still need to go over the blocks again and am sure to add more - the biggest mistake I keep making is to double shown quantities to account for port and starboard.
Really enjoying the process, hope to start building again soon!
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from Chuck Seiler in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
The berth deck height is correct, Mark. My issue now is to decide whether to shorten the figures I have to bring them more into a 5' 6" or less arena. I can't just take a little from the torso, since their knuckles will drag on the floor - need to shorten the arms also. This 'short cut' of getting base figures isn't getting so short anymore!
Maybe I will just put bandages around their heads to show where they keep bashing them against the beams! Or to be safe, add scale yellow tape warning of the low overhead.....
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from mtaylor in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Thanks all.
This hits the definition of what is the 'right' way. In my sense, that could be different from person to person. Brilliant? I don't know about that, some would probably say a lost opportunity. However, the old saying "I am the captain" rules all. I don't think the over all effect would have been any better. Again, lots of details to accomplish like softening the hard edges as well as battens and such.
I think I have become more comfortable in this hobby, particularly after finishing the full Druid. With the Druid-X I am having a lot of fun and not 'hanging on' too tight. Should I say I am even considering ordering the blocks for the rigging? The understanding of the rigging was the big mountain for me.
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from dgbot in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Time for some progress. I turned towards the main mast cap.
I used a circle stencil to figure out the correct diameter of the top mast at the tenon and chose the drill bit accordingly. A good snug fit that was fine tuned with some sand paper. Now I needed to work on the tenon onto the mast itself.
Thought about how I was going to do it. First the result:
I did add a little mast exposed above the mast cap, just like the look. How did I accomplish this? How about the following pic:
That's right, there really isn't a tenon. I cut off the mast at the appropriate height, drilled a hole through the mast cap for a 1/16" dowel into the mast itself, and then finally added a faux mast piece on top of the dowel.
Still a lot of shaping and tuning up, to include the metal hoops, bolsters, etc etc. However I am happy with the result at this rough in stage. Next up is the topmast to topgallant mast connections.
Mark
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kruginmi got a reaction from Canute in HMS Druid by kruginmi - 1:48 - cross-section - Hahn
Thanks all.
This hits the definition of what is the 'right' way. In my sense, that could be different from person to person. Brilliant? I don't know about that, some would probably say a lost opportunity. However, the old saying "I am the captain" rules all. I don't think the over all effect would have been any better. Again, lots of details to accomplish like softening the hard edges as well as battens and such.
I think I have become more comfortable in this hobby, particularly after finishing the full Druid. With the Druid-X I am having a lot of fun and not 'hanging on' too tight. Should I say I am even considering ordering the blocks for the rigging? The understanding of the rigging was the big mountain for me.
Mark
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