popeye the sailor

I do have some pictures of the reef lines.  I'm threading  them through,  with a dot of white glue.  cut and trim will come later.........I made a jig,  cementing two 7mm lengths of planking together...figure that's long enough.   I have them on both sides...thought it illogical to have them on just one side......with the sail rolled up,  what will it be tied to?  I started with the jib.
 

 

 
from here,  they were painted with diluted white glue,  to stiffen them up a bit,  so they will lay straight.
 

 
the fore sheet half done.  here is the jib being trimmed.
 

 

 
from here,  there is a jib boom to be sewn on.  I tried to do it the way I've seen them....a connected pattern
 

 

 
there are blocks that need to be set up as well.........I'm doing that as I go along.   more on this soon...I have to go plant some flower bulbs for m' lady     {butter-up time  }

good to hear your doing better...... AND....your not sneaking around behind the admiral's back.   get well soon,  my friend

Ahoy Mates
 
Eric: Don’t count your chickens and there is always, filler, paint or another layer of planks. In the end, it is only a hobby.
 
Augie: We both know what happens on this build when I let things go. Here it would have included a paint color and we know that is not the goal.
 
Martin: I like the new pic size too. The new image size is 1600 by 1200. I might go slightly smaller as this size is kind of “overwhelming”
 
Bob: I think my problem is I never fitted a plank. I have a concern that when I get there I will find that I could have done something to have made this easier. Worst, that I did something to make it harder. I have already made another change to this plan by completing two more strakes reducing the number of remaining strakes. I will now attempt to close up the stern with only three strakes remaining. Russ’s comment tipped me off. I have learned there is much wisdom in those words. I should also add that it was reading your first log in MSW 1.0 that inspired me to make my log as helpful to others as possible. Thank you.
 
Further notes:
 
What I have learned here is; “when you plank, errors grow”. Just as with many other aspects of shipbuilding, what you do now, effects what you do next. I would have spent an hour or two dealing with this later, either by fitting planks made harder by the line this would have introduced or trying to even it out over the next few strakes. I chose to just spend the time now and fix it. It is a fine line “yes” and there might be a complimentary snack or two along the road but: It seems there are no free lunches for the shipbuilder. Just my two cents.

what I mean is,  you have to spray a seal coat on them.   with ink jet decals,  this is very important....the ink is on the surface of the decal film.  if you were to put water on them,  the ink would come off.   Testors has a decal program you can purchase
 
Testors
 
they also carry decal bonder to spray on after the decals are printed.   there are two drawbacks though.......printers cannot print white and there is a bit of a transparency issue......I haven't worked it out yet...still experimenting.   I've made decals for all my boats

I'm just glad my admiral is a good egg about things..........we don't argue,  so I have to do things to keep it lively   LOL!

Popeye.... cattle prods get a much more interesting reaction...  

Just make sure you have a planned escape route when you do....
 
 
Oh yeah...
 
Keep your head down when you run.... something might get hurled in your direction too....
 

 
Andy

OK>>>>>>>>here I am,  back at 'er!   I still have some work to do before I can start the rigging.   I wanted to do something a little different with the anchor.   they only give you one in the kit.   my idea was to snake a chain from one fairlead to the other,  and rig up two anchors.   the anchor is in two halves.......to be cemented together.....I will make two out of these.   they were cemented to a piece of basswood.  they will be cut out and shaped to make them.
 

 
here is the diagram in how the anchor is to be rigged.
 

 
I also begun fitting the dead eyes......I still may go with three shrouds for the main mast.   I have looked at the Mamoli kit and they show it.
 

 
the mast hoops are also being set up to be sewn to the sails
 

 
I have been looking around for different sizes of black thread around here....I'm going to have to find a good place to get some.   in the meantime,  I have all this white thread from the other Billing kits,  and I want to try dying some.  I was told that the use of regular dye might degrade the thread,  so I thought up another method........using India Ink.  this turned into a comedy fest......it started with a pine board and large push pins. 
 


 
doning rubber gloves,  I started it using cotton balls.......not a good idea.   it was grabbing on the thread and coming off on it.   After switching over to an old wash cloth,  this went a bit better.   the other thing was that I really didn't keep an eye on the spool.  it ended up on the floor........Gibbs kept a really keen eye on it for me.     as I was wiping on the ink,  it caused the thread to twist more and more {the residual twists of the thread itself}.....ans soon I ended up with one heck of a knot!  I tried to unravel it, but it was no use.  I cut my losses and terminated this run.........I threw it away.
 


 
I had another spool.....this one I slotted at the end.....to keep the thread from coming off the spool and I stuck it in my pocket.  this worked out much better......much better control.   I got to the end of the board,  so I terminated this run........I have enough to start.......probably enough to do the entire kit.
 



 
I tried to do a good close up for you.......it did come out pretty good.   I will probably give this a coat of diluted white glue after to seal the thread.   it is stretched to some degree,  to bring it down to the minium thickness.   I hope to have more progress real soon.

thanks Aldo......I hope to get to the sail rigging soon. 
 
hi Alpentex.......is this the Billing's AmericA your working on?   I was looking at another manufacturer for Ideas.  the bow spirit needs to be tapered......there is a ring that is supposed to go at the tip.  I drilled the holes straight through....top to bottom and side to side.  I used the copper eye bolts,  and what stuck out the other end,  was bent to make the opposite eye bolt.  be careful though,  or it will break.....I'd love to do this boat at a larger scale......there has to be more than what the Billing's plans show     thanks for looking in and the good word.  I hope I helped you out

Augie, Janos, Michael, Popeye, your words are very appreciated.
 
I've found some pothos of upper foredeck's building. I used the cutter blade's edge to separate a bit the strips, and so to make the caulking
 
Cheers
Alex

Got the port side done and the rudder in place.  Still need to add the keel which is why I left the rudder so long.  My philosophy is cut big and sand to size. So far it works.
 
 I also decided to change the way I did the windows and the transom.  The ship lacked color so I cut off the old transom added color to the plans in Photoshop and printed a new one.  I like this much better.  Then like an idiot I nick it with the dremel.   So if you see some paint differences that's why.  
 
I also added gold paint around the windows.  This actually did two things added color and the build up of the paint gave it a more defined  windowsill look.  I'm much happier with my windows now.  
 

 

 

 

 

 
Now I'm finally getting to the itty bitty fun parts.  

From the photos the planking looks fine to me, fortunately Rattlesnake doesn't appear to have much sheer and is not too bluff in the bows both of which present slightly more complex planking issues.
 
You can see best how to proceed, but these are the basic rules I follow.
 
Never taper a plank to less than half its width.
 
Use long tapers not short.
 
Never force a plank laterally, use stealers say at the stern where  a gap may appear.
 
If the taper at the bow looks to be getting too sharp use drop planks or  spiled planks.
 
Have wider plank widths to hand to accommodate spiling, trouble with kits is they generally only provide one width, I always buy extra sizes.
 
I like to plank from both keel up and wale down and aim to have any remaining oddly shaped plank requiring spiling appear on the underside of the hull.
 
Stick with it JP, you're nearly there.
 
B.E.
 

I am not sure what to tell you on this planking issue except that you need to use the method that works for you. Dry fitting the planks to check their fit is a good idea.
 
Russ

Grant, Kevin and Popeye, Many thanks.
 
B.E.  Thanks for the heads up on the crew.  Somehow, I doubt I'd be any happier as a "waister."  And since I don't like heights, perhaps I'll aspire to be SirJoseph Porter, K.C.B. of Gilbert and Sullivan's HMS Pinafore.  "I am the monarch of the sea, The ruler of the Queen's navee..........etc."
 
Keith,  You are too observant. Indeed they are port (larboard) and starboard.  Actually, the clue,sheet and tack block cluster is probably wrong since they were likely done by eye splices and a turks head as shown by Longbridge. As for the U-bolts or shackles, were they even in use in 1805?  I served the strops and eye splices and simply lashed the eyes together.  Cheers, Gil 
 

OK, just because I like you, here's the secret chart:
 
http://www.jetpens.com/articles/Article:_Picking_the_Perfect_Pencil_Lead_Hardness
 
Be wary that 'harder' doesn't necessarily mean stronger.  Your 0.5HB is  what we mere mortals call a #2.  A #3 would be 'harder' but might be more brittle.  You could also try getting a pencil that uses thicker 'lead'. 

YEA BABY!!!  they look great Augie!  poor Frank must be going stur-crazy!   once he gets back on his build.......that'll keep him busy,  tying all those loose ends!

I use a semi gloss lacquer....if you have something close to that...that good as well.  you don't want to have a glossy deck.  I notice your running it from port to starboard......would it look better if it ran from counter to bow?  it's just that I notice the slight curve that the deck is going to have,  and I see that it shows with the way your running it.   I'm sure there is a cabin wall to close this in......it will probably have the same curvature as the deck.  also,  you'll be able to continue the planking all the way to the bow...it will be uniform.  pencil is good for the calking.  I use two methods.....black crayon {which is kinda messy}......and an archive pen {black India ink}
 
a light sand before you seal it will blend any smudges and imperfections into the wood,  giving it a bit of a hue.  not to worry,  it will look good

oop!  there goes another keyboard!   LOL!

I guess this is where the kit falls short...it doesn't include them in the kit.   I do have some on hand though.....I'll have to see if they are small enough to do the job.
 
I did do the standing rigging......the bow rigging,  the fore stay,  and the short main stay.
 

 

 

 

 

 
here is a shot of the rigging at a slightly different angle
 

 
now.....back on with the reef lines
 
 

oop!  there goes another keyboard!   LOL!

sorry....haven't got the book yet.  I've been working on the AmericA build,  as well as bogged down with other things.   the sooner I get the AmericA off the table,  the sooner I can get on with the Goth........I wanna do ratlines too!

Sjors,
 
And you thought that sleeping with a Moderator would get you extra privileges!!!!!!!!!!
 
Best you get back in the kitchen then...........

Keith, Many thanks for the link. Incredible work which shows the limits of our expertise.
 
Making small steps with perhaps a half of the running rigging completed.
Preparing the netting over the bees, using blackTulle.  24 gage dark annealed wire was used for the supporting lines, glued to the tulle and the excess netting trimmed off.
Netting in place
Photo showing Spritsail sheet and clue line and bowsprit topsail sheet and clue line.  Also spritsail yard brace and topsail yard brace.
Foremast lower yard clue line and block (just under the yard); tack line leading forward to the bumpkin and sheet running aft to hull.
Starboard bumpkin. Tack line leading to outer kevel at foredeck.
Lines attached at timberheads at the beakhead.
Foremast lower yard clue block, sheet block (aft) and tack block (fwd). Real ship.
Sheet originating from an eyebolt on the hull, terminating through the hull to a cleat on the upper gun deck.
Top mast yard sheet and clue line.
Stb'd and Port bumpkins.
Spritsail yard lift originating from the cap and returning to pass through a block at the cap.
Lines terminating at the timberheads at the beakhead.
Lines terminating at the timberheads at the belfry

Gee... you let Sjors have it easy! I hope he knows how lucky he is
 
Andy

I've made a little progress of late.   all of the mast hoops are set and ready to be sewn onto the sails.   it wasn't too bad....only twenty hoops to tie thread onto.   the finished ones were held at the top of the mast, while those that are drying.......a small touch of glue on the knots......were kept separate on a lower level.
 

 
I did more....even started to do some on the fore mast.
 

 
soon,  they were all done though.
 

 
next was the dead eyes.   I did some looking,  and I do believe that there are three dead eyes for the main mast.   it makes sense...and quite logical,  since there are two steps to this mast.   lucky I have extra parts for this......came out looking pretty good.
 

 

 
now I have to get the blocks and reef lines on the sails.........and then,  I can begin the sail rigging.  to make it a bit easier,  I may do the hoop / sheet attachment before the shrouds......they won't be in the way.  more progress soon