glbarlow

Thanks, lining them up is a sticky challenge but worked out ok.

Fenders and Chesstrees Keeping with shorter posts: Added the fenders and chesstrees to the hull. Each consist of a center and two outer layers glued together providing a nice dimensional look. After removing char the center piece is tapered from top to bottom and the outer edge slightly rounded before the two very thin are added (amazing to have layered wood on this thin a sheet of wood). With great trepidation I removed the center moulding. Then came a lot of careful shaping to conform these to my particular hull - both patience and time are required following the firm rule of while you can remove wood, you can’t put it back. I tried printing the frieze on tissue paper, really I tried. While successful the color and texture just weren’t a good match for me, probably the wrong tissue paper or I need more practice doing it. I was however successful using the original paper printed frieze. Ample use of the same glue stick used for the hull softens the paper and allowed me to get a match. With Chuck’s suggested tooth pick approach I was able to guide the paper into the groove created by the three pieces. I also rounded out the sheave on the chess tree before applying the outer pieces along with a little 7mm lead pencil. I’ve still not mounted the waist cannon, but set them for the photo. The addition of the fenders, chess tree, and ladder really bring the hull alive. My one regret is while the boxwood for the ladder match, the AYC for the fenders are way whiter than the hull despited several coats of WOP. I kinda wish they had been boxwood as well to match the moulding. I note however, at this point the hull planking is near three years old. I am confident in time the fenders and chess tree, like the hull, will mellow and blend in. I’m moving onto the waists platforms and will finish chapter 11 with the channels. Thanks for stopping by.

Just found this. Once again I’ll live vicariously through your work. Off to another great start Rusty!

Surely there’s a way to model the deck without hiding all this amazing below deck detail.

Nice coils and rope work. Your effort and skills on the details really makes your model stand out.

I pin the backside of the yard to the mast with a little CA - completely invisible and holds it in place. The gentle torque of the appropriate lines keeps it squared up beyond that. Your servings look great, well done.

Just click on your profile, its right there.

Plus it looks cool 😄

Because you're supporting this site. True you can free load and never contribute through NRG or the Donations tag at the top, but if enough did that they MSW wouldn't have the funds to operate. Shell out the very nominal membership fee, you can display or not the avatar once you do.

Those are some nice looking gratings Frank. I considered not painting as well but in the end decided to do so. I’d suggest you consider your entire deck plan for paint colors and/or natural. My thought was if the gratings were natural so would have to be other furniture/fittings and that I liked the contrast the black provided to the red and yellow cedar. It is you ship, whatever you decide it will turn out great.

I start with an acetone bath, then blackening for 90 seconds, then a water rinse, dry and a slight buff with a soft cloth. The acetone bath is an important step. I have learned not all blackening solutions, like CA, are equal in quality or results. Foe me paint designed to look like metal rather than just black paint works ok, but only if weathering powder is applied, and not as good as blackening for some things.

Thank you JJ, as long as we’re having fun right. Thanks Rusty. Accurate description, and I have so many upcoming opportunities to get freaked out.

Thank you. At least that piece got a fresh coat of paint.

Boarding Ladder I have a friend making me a display stand, he’s an artist with “big wood.” I can’t wait to set Winchelsea on her final home. I had to turn her over to get the final fitting on the three cradles she’ll sit on - something I should have done much sooner. So of course something broke. Fun it was clearing, cleaning, repainting, 18/0 and 10/0 spotter and shader brushes, and reinstalling this piece, or pieces as they became, (especially the tiny metal braces on the inner edges) with everything around it complete and completely in the way. A lot of patience and slow going, In the end all is ok again. I made some decisions installing the boarding ladder. First was to remove the complete molding rather than try and cut into it. I also elected to scrape a pattern similar to the moulding. Then by sanding a 67.5 angle on each side and a reverse 67.5 on the re-cut to fit separated molding I could create an integrated look for the anchor step. Anchor step because I would space the rest based on the fit of this step within the moulding. I used a round file and 400 grit to round the pattern into the side of each step after scraping them from a length of boxwood strip. I kinda like the result. I printed the frieze pattern on tissue paper, a first for me. I just didn’t like the outcome of wrapping the top step, partially because I couldn’t get a clean look on the sides, admittedly I didn’t try very hard. While the wrapped step looks great I preferred a natural look atop the frieze. I split the distance between the top and second step for spacing. I lined all the steps up with the right edge of the port, it being perpendicular to the actual water line (the photo isn’t straight on so the perspective is off). Mini-me had a new view of the ship standing here on the ladder. He's to scale so I like the perspective he provides to size and space. The plans show 6 steps with the last one on the black strake. I measured out how that would work on my particular hull, the spacing would have looked awkward with the top two steps fitted as they needed to be. So I reduced the spacing for the remaining four steps for a consistent look. But I worked it out. After measuring, cutting and re-cutting multiple test spacers (2.23mm wound up to be the right gap) to allow a seventh step sitting in the middle of the black strake. Ahh symmetry … and some drama. Determining the jigs by measuring and remeasuring and making the steps was fun. Removing the moulding without taking the frieze with it, and with a #11 blade scratching into the multiple coats of WOP to create a bondable surface for the glue provided a few deep breath moments. I used CA, applied with a straight pin onto the step with just enough to adhere without spillover onto the hull. It all turned out ok. Thanks for stopping by.

Who would send hate mail. You made the right and best decision. We love our dogs, taking our previous 17 year old beagle for that last trip is heartbreaking, no matter how right it is to do.

Nice metal work, my least favorite thing. But then it looks so good on the model. Consider weathering powder, these look good, blackened and weathered.

Well done B.E. Congratulations on another superb model. Always a pleasure following your logs. What’s next up?

It looks so nice, really well done. Your patience and effort to learn the new skills to make this is quite impressive.

Thanks for the nice comments. The weathering powder rally does make a big difference, especially on metal and wood meant to be metal, like my stove. Air brushing too makes for a nicer look on things like cannon carriages. I had no idea how to use one, but with guidance from here on the forum I sorted it out. Amazon has some nice, reasonably priced setups. My advice, don’t go too cheap. A good brush and an actual compressor is worth the extra money. The only down side is the brush takes about as long to clean as it does to paint, for me anyway.

Thanks for the comment Eric. My cannons are a two step process. First airbrushing with Admiralty Paints Ironworks Black (I love the stuff, a rich matte black), airbrushing both the carriages and the guns produces a much more even finish, especially on the barrels. Then a four different brush application of Doc OBrien’s Rusty Brown weathering powder (which I also more lightly apply to the cap squares to bring it all together. Don't know why but the combination turns the cannons into a nice gun metal gray, credit goes to Chuck for the Rusty Brown, not an obvious choice. Enjoying your work on Cheerful as well.

Thank you for the kind words. Glad my log will be of some help. Both Cheerful and now Winchelsea are great build, lots of challenges and lots of fun - with a little frustration here and there.

Quarterdeck Cannon No lengthy explanations, the quarterdeck cannon were made just as the main deck guns detailed in an earlier post. The carriages were freed of char and air brushed. One difference from the main guns are the cannon; before being air brushed with Ironwood Black I elected to replace the thin resin trunnions with 19 gauge wire by drilling through the guns using my mill. Or perhaps I should say the decision was made for me with at least three of the guns already having the plastic ones broken off while still in the bag. No doubt carelessness on my part. The production line is ready. The completed guns sitting (not glued, that comes later) on the q-deck. I always build one extra … just in case. On to Chapter 11.

I’ve never seen a Nikon lens with f/40, interesting. I too rejected ring lights in my photography due to limited use and high price. This seems like a nice price effective choice. Thanks for sharing.

First Quarter deck cannon complete and posed next to its main deck companion. Seven more to go

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